adamj2121

All I know is the backup camera on my truck is 1,000x better than the backup camera on my brother's Tundra. My dad's f150 is about equal in quality to my Silverado, but he only has the small non-touch screen in his center stack.

I talked to the dealership about the rust on my truck when I purchased it, it was used with 6,000 miles on it. They would not cover any repairs to the wax/frame under warranty. So it looks like it may or may not be a service that your dealer is even willing to offer.

You would only need to clean the terminals if they are corroded or dirty. If there is a light amount of dust wiping them off with a microfiber cloth should be sufficient. If there is an excessive amount of dirt then using some electrical cleaner spray and a wire brush, steel wool, etc. should be sufficient for cleaning the connections. I think you would have noticed when performing the fix if the connections required cleaning. The G218 ground seems to be the most common cause of electrical issues, but is not the only cause. Your issues could be caused by any number of grounds on the truck. In my instance, the electrical issues were caused by a bad negative battery cable and terminal. The terminal and cable both needed to be replaced. It is also possible that the ground has a break or short somewhere along the wire. Unfortunately, the cause of electrical issues is hard to pin point as most electrical issues are very similar and inconsistent regardless of what connection is causing them. Good luck, I hope you track down the ground that is causing your issues. You can find an up fitter's electrical guide and that would give you a great starting point to determine where all of the grounds are and what ones might be worth checking.

It could have been possible that the cable to the ABS sensors was pulled too tightly when the lift was installed. Accidents happen and I imagine that cable isn't very robust so it could be easy to damage it enough to prevent the right signals from sending. I'm not sure on the park assist, it wouldn't hurt to check an make sure all of the cables going to the parking sensors are secure and free of damage.

I have read of others having issues with the traction control system. I believe there was a thread about it somewhere on the forums a while back. It seems to be inconsistent from truck to truck. Some trucks have a 9" lift and don't have issues, others had a 4" lift and have issues. I'm not sure if there was ever a solution found for it (other than disabling traction control). With my 6" lift I have had no traction control system issues.

This. His truck is also a 2014, so unless it has an extended warranty it wouldn't be covered anyway. Electronics are only covered under the 3/36 warranty, he should still have the driveline warranty but it won't cover any electrical issues, even if they affect the power train.

Do you have the active grille shutters? If you do it could be that the truck is closing them for aerodynamics once you are above 60 and isn't registering that it is getting hot enough to open them back up. That would be my first thought since it seems to weirdly only happen above 60.

Definitely a ground issue. I had similar problems with my truck, engine didn't shut off but I lost all throttle/steering for a split second and then would regain electrical systems and control. The fix for mine was replacing the negative battery cable and terminal. No major electrical issues since.

Thanks, I'll try this as soon as I get some free time. Hopefully, this Saturday at the latest.

Anyone with a 6" lift or more that has vibration issues in A4WD and 4HI? I've never had a need for 4LO but I would imagine the vibration exists there as well. When in 4Auto and 4HI the truck has a vibration through the steering wheel and cabin that seems to be related to the RPMs. It doesn't show up much or at all below 2,200 RPMs and seems to go away above 4,500 RPMs. The truck didn't do it when I first bought it with the lift, it only showed up after the dealer prematurely replaced a CV shaft. The dealer claims it is the front drive shaft and it is just a symptom of being lifted. I call BS on that as I spoke with BDS and they indicated they never received a complaint about vibrations in 4auto. Anyways the dealer is refusing to work on the truck, so I'm looking for some things to check myself.

Had the exact same issues on my truck, its been a year since it was fixed and so far no more problems. A couple of small glitches with MyLink but nothing like before. My issue ended up being the negative battery cable, the whole cable needed to be replaced, battery was replaced at the same time and the body ground was cleaned. Don't know if you have tried replacing the entire negative cable yet, but it could be a solution to your problems. It is a bummer that you have had to deal with issues for 4 years. Best of luck!

I definitely wouldn't do rhino-liner for the undercoating. Line-x has a specially formulated undercoating spray they use, it isn't the same material as the bed liner. Rhino Lining would look good and work well on the inner fender areas below the bed. There are too many areas underneath the truck though where I don't believe the liner would hold up. Plus you would need to mask basically every rotating part and be very cautious, compared to a normal undercoating.

That sucks, I will let you know if the dealer does anything with the panel gap issues on my truck, although I have started lemon law proceedings so there is a chance the truck will be purchased back before that issue is even addressed. Unfortunately, it sounds like your dealer doesn't want to work with you and help you. If you have another dealer in the area I would recommend taking the truck there and have them address your issues/concerns. The dealer I go to is about a half hour drive for me, the local dealer is 5 minutes away, I drive the extra 25 minutes because my dealer actually addresses issues and they provide a loaner 99% of the time. Best of luck in getting your truck sorted out!

I just noticed this on my truck a few weeks ago. It is currently at the dealer for other issues and I had them add this to the list. Rear passenger side door is perfectly aligned, the rear driver side door is aligned until the bottom section of the door. Pretty much goes out of alignment in the same place as in your photo. I looked over all of the panel gaps/alignments when I noticed the door, but nothing else seems to be off on my truck.Other than the window moldings are warping like crazy.

It's hard to say, GM has been using the wax for so long I really doubt they will change. I think it would be beneficial for the consumer if they would switch. The e-coating that Ford uses seems to be pretty nice.