A -44 offset is going to require trimming regardless of your lift. You are going to be getting into bumpers and possibly the cab when at full lock. One thing to consider is that most 18" rims aren't available in that high of an offset. You could probably do a 4" lift and 33's on 20" rims with a -24 offset and get some of the look you like without having to trim a ton, trimming will still be needed.
Yep it's normal. GM applies wax to their truck frames instead of painting them or using a more robust/permanent coating solution. If you are in an area that uses a lot of brine or liquid salt the coating will not hold up well at all during the winter and you will have tuns of rust. Some people touch up the frame with fluid film, others report that fluid film causes the coating to fall off. I believe GM uses Not-Rust https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b
This seems to be an issue on some lifted trucks and not others. Some only have a 4" lift and have the issue others have a 10" lift and have no issues. I have no problems with my 6" BDS lift. I believe it has been determined that the cause is the yaw sensor needs calibrated. I have no clue why it happens on some trucks and not others, I believe you can search and find a few topics on the same/similar issues. Sorry I am not of more help, I've never dealt with it personally.
I talked to the dealership about the rust on my truck when I purchased it, it was used with 6,000 miles on it. They would not cover any repairs to the wax/frame under warranty. So it looks like it may or may not be a service that your dealer is even willing to offer.
It sounds like the vinyl shop wanted to make more money. lol Vinyl will be more resistant to chipping than paint. Powder coating would be my pick, should match fairly well and be more resistant to chipping.
I had very similar issues with a bad ground. It wasn't as obvious and took a lot of digging on the technicians' behalf to find the cause. These trucks go haywire when they lose power to any of the components. I would say that it isn't typical for the harness/wiring to be damaged, but your symptoms are typical symptoms of the harness being damaged. It is very likely it was an assembly issue, mine was. But mine was also apparent within the first week of owning the truck. At least it sounds like it is fixed now.
My truck was purchased as an ALC package, so I have never driven it without the lift. I have a FlexFuel engine and run e85 almost constantly. Running ethanol I get about 12-14mpg, depending on my driving style. I have seen as low as 10 with a lot of aggressive acceleration. When I have ran regular gasoline, which I do during the winter months, I get about 16-17 mpg. I had a Sierra 1500 as a loaner and I averaged 17-18 mpg in it. The biggest difference is highway driving anywhere that has a 70+ mph speed limit my truck will barely get above 18mpg where as a stock truck tends to get 20-21mpg. Overall, I don't notice the lower fuel economy that much and I am willing to trade off a couple of miles per gallon for the looks and ground clearance.
Correct. Leveling kits have zero engineering involved, they just add some space at the top of the coils which causes angles to change from stock, the large the spacers the greater the angles change. Lift kits have drop brackets, replacement knuckles, and other parts that adjust all angles to keep them as close to stock as possible. When you add a lift kit the item causing the most stress on the components of the truck are the larger and heavier tires that are added, the kit itself changes almost nothing in terms of wear or stress.
GM fixed the charging incompatibility issues in 2018, so the new trucks will definitely support wireless charging for all mobile devices. If you wish to use CarPlay or AndroidAuto you have to have your phone plugged in, I know there are some aftermarket head units that support wireless CarPlay/AndroidAuto, but there are issues. I would prefer to have wired CarPlay connection, it's much less stress on all devices involved and gets much better response times that are lag free. All of the android voice commands should work now, I know they do with my iPhone. You just have to long press the talk button so you can speak to Siri instead of the truck's built in voice assistant, the same should be true on Android long press the talk button to deliver commands to Google Assistant.
I have a 16 in Red Hot. No issues with fading, but I don't expect to have any fading issues in only 2 years of being outside. The truck has never been garaged and I haven't been the best at washing and waxing the truck. It has been in and out of the dealer a lot for various electrical issues and transmission issues, and I haven't actually had much hands on time with the truck to detail it properly. I see plenty of older Victory Red Silverados that don't have fading issues, so I am not concerned with the longevity of the paint.
Yeah if you are going down a road with bumps and holes and so on you are going to need a 6" lift for 35's or a 4" lift and trim a bunch of pieces. Anything less than 4" and you are going to have major rubbing issues on any slight incline. For a Denali I would highly recommend the BDS kits w/ fox coilers, if you can spring the additional cost. You are going to get a stiffer ride with a leveling kit and 2.5" is pushing the cv angles, 3" is too much and 2.5" is getting there. I don't recommend doing more than a 2" level.
You would only need to clean the terminals if they are corroded or dirty. If there is a light amount of dust wiping them off with a microfiber cloth should be sufficient. If there is an excessive amount of dirt then using some electrical cleaner spray and a wire brush, steel wool, etc. should be sufficient for cleaning the connections. I think you would have noticed when performing the fix if the connections required cleaning. The G218 ground seems to be the most common cause of electrical issues, but is not the only cause. Your issues could be caused by any number of grounds on the truck. In my instance, the electrical issues were caused by a bad negative battery cable and terminal. The terminal and cable both needed to be replaced. It is also possible that the ground has a break or short somewhere along the wire. Unfortunately, the cause of electrical issues is hard to pin point as most electrical issues are very similar and inconsistent regardless of what connection is causing them. Good luck, I hope you track down the ground that is causing your issues. You can find an up fitter's electrical guide and that would give you a great starting point to determine where all of the grounds are and what ones might be worth checking.
It could have been possible that the cable to the ABS sensors was pulled too tightly when the lift was installed. Accidents happen and I imagine that cable isn't very robust so it could be easy to damage it enough to prevent the right signals from sending. I'm not sure on the park assist, it wouldn't hurt to check an make sure all of the cables going to the parking sensors are secure and free of damage.
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