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About Vicarod

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  1. Nice rides, both of them. I am seeing the new SUV's EVERYWHERE on the road now. I bet the dealers cannot keep them on the lots and the salespeople are loving it. I wanted to get my wife one...she currently drives a Buick Enclave Avenir...no dice. Although she likes driving my truck, go figure.
  2. I get all my blades from Rock Auto. Much cheaper even when shipping is included. They sell most of the name brands. IE: Trico neo-form 16-2213 is only $6.91 plus shipping. Shipping for a pair of blades is $7 to my location. I suspect other locations are similar. Shipping doesn't increase much with additional blades. That same blade is listed in another post for $21 (pre coupon cost)
  3. I believe the last two-tone trucks were the GMT-800's and I know they have a lot of fans. Being particularly fond of the two-tone paint schemes and having one in the family (my son drives my old 2000), I decided to take the liberty of snapping a few photos of this that I saw while driving around town yesterday. I went to the Chevy website to see if this was a factory option...it is not, best I can tell. Although I am in the Lowcountry, this High Country wore Pennsylvania plates. What you all think?
  4. You can certainly get the inserts out. I haven't been able to find anything to put back in. Although I haven't been looking too hard. I've been using these. I'm happy with them and even with shipping, about half price through RA than at the store. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11105973&cc=3443204&jsn=2535
  5. What style of cover are you looking for? My cover on my '14 was an Access TonnoSport and I liked it very much. My cover on my '19 is a TonnoPro LoRoll, and although it works...I don't like it near as much as the TonnoSport. Not as well built. If you are going lowest price, I bought my son a Gator ETX off of Amazon for $120 on cyber monday. It's currently around $199, and I like it better than the TonnoPro. All three I bought are soft roll-ups
  6. Very nice! The more I see of that silver, the more I like it. Looks really good on these trucks, especially on TB trim level. What engine you go with on this?
  7. You can actually push the cord in all the way through the gap you make...so it takes some patience initially. I would say that the chord is about 1/2 to 3/4's in... The member that came up with this has a good photo of it installed on his truck.
  8. I use these for a lot of things...this job being one of them. https://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-4-pc-63594.html?_br_psugg_q=trim+tool
  9. Well, you got the 10spd now, right? I am starting to think that there are several causes for the leak that all manifest themselves in the same areas: 1. Cracked window frames 2. Sealant voids around window 3. Leaking spoiler fasteners My rear window was replaced back in Aug. even though the frame wasn't cracked. After they returned it to me, the leak was in a slightly different place, but still at the upper frame and it was worse. Window guy came to my work and pulled headliner down (he cracked it) and then cap sealed all the bolts that hold the spoiler on. He also added additional sealant to the frame of the window from the inside of the cab. VERY sloppy work. Leak free so far. Just went out and checked, and it's been raining here for days in Savannah I just feel if all three issues aren't addressed, you risk potential future leaks. Not to say that these fixes are permanent, but I think the spoiler attach bolts leaking is a bigger deal than we realize.
  10. Use plastic trim tools under the spoiler to lift the spoiler (locally) from the cab. You will only lift it about .125" or so, but it will be enough to get that cord in. You will only do about 2" at a time. Takes about 15/20 minutes once you get going. And yes...you can puncture the material. You may, initially. You'll get the feel for it and what the cord can handle. You can get the trim tools from HF really cheap. DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS!
  11. I am really glad they did the right thing and stepped up to take care of your window. GM is certainly aware of this problem...it's just that nobody knows how permanent the repair is yet. A lot of people on this thread that have had several repair attempts.
  12. The downstream 2nd and 3rd owners of these trucks are going to be screwed. Trucks will be out of warranty by then, and the dealers will be more than happy to temp fix the problem...for a price. Short of an aftermarket repair, I see a lot of these trucks getting solid windows in the future.
  13. Here's the installation instructions for some aftermarket boards. The hardware might be similar for the factory boards. If so, it's just 8 bolt/nut/washer combination. I suspect that all factory and aftermarket brackets mount the same. Hopefully this works for you if you cannot get dealer hardware or have to wait for dealer. Go Rhino running board installation.pdf
  14. Headrest rattle like others said before, easy fix to just spread the headrest legs out OR Rear cab vent(s). Check to see if they didn't knock those out. I got mine back after the window and the driver side cab vent was loose. OR Could possibly be spoiler attach bolts. I personally feel that this might be a big part of the leaking problem, as my window wasn't cracked...but they insisted on replacing it anyway. When they did, the leak was worse, and in a different area because they didn't seal the spoiler attach points. What a mess. Still have a noise in the cab during extreme temp changes...and I believe it is due to the spoiler not torqued correctly. Which led to the leak. Just my theory. I am probably way off the mark.
  15. I just put it in yesterday...I'll keep you posted. I plan on water testing it instead of waiting for rain. Full disclosure, I don't have a leak since they replaced my rear window. This is more preventative. I used interior plastic trim tools to get the cord between the spoiler and the cab. Gap was that tight on my truck.
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