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Vicarod

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  • Name
    Dino
  • Location
    Bluffton, SC
  • Drives
    2022 Sierra AT4 Std bed 2019 Silverado CC Std bd Z71 4x4 (gone)

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  1. Where you located in N. Florida? We travel to Daytona quite frequently from Hilton Head.
  2. For the first time in my life I do not own a Chevy truck...
  3. I am really on the fence about trading my truck in. I too have checked the websites, and Carmax was the lowest at 41k or so. That's only 2k off what I paid for it 2 years ago. Vroom was around 48k...which is silly. My thoughts are that I really want the safety package along with the updated interior of the 2022's (now 2023?). I pretty much can get out of my truck for what I paid for it. With that being said, I know that I will have to go a while with not having something new / current. I am ok with that since I am a GMT-800 homer...really still like driving my old 2000 (my son's truck now) and figure that I will just pick one up ( with 4wd). Problem is...those things are bonkers now, too... 2005 Silverado Z-71 with 200k on the clock. Yeah...$10,000
  4. Nice rides, both of them. I am seeing the new SUV's EVERYWHERE on the road now. I bet the dealers cannot keep them on the lots and the salespeople are loving it. I wanted to get my wife one...she currently drives a Buick Enclave Avenir...no dice. Although she likes driving my truck, go figure.
  5. I get all my blades from Rock Auto. Much cheaper even when shipping is included. They sell most of the name brands. IE: Trico neo-form 16-2213 is only $6.91 plus shipping. Shipping for a pair of blades is $7 to my location. I suspect other locations are similar. Shipping doesn't increase much with additional blades. That same blade is listed in another post for $21 (pre coupon cost)
  6. I believe the last two-tone trucks were the GMT-800's and I know they have a lot of fans. Being particularly fond of the two-tone paint schemes and having one in the family (my son drives my old 2000), I decided to take the liberty of snapping a few photos of this that I saw while driving around town yesterday. I went to the Chevy website to see if this was a factory option...it is not, best I can tell. Although I am in the Lowcountry, this High Country wore Pennsylvania plates. What you all think?
  7. You can certainly get the inserts out. I haven't been able to find anything to put back in. Although I haven't been looking too hard. I've been using these. I'm happy with them and even with shipping, about half price through RA than at the store. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11105973&cc=3443204&jsn=2535
  8. What style of cover are you looking for? My cover on my '14 was an Access TonnoSport and I liked it very much. My cover on my '19 is a TonnoPro LoRoll, and although it works...I don't like it near as much as the TonnoSport. Not as well built. If you are going lowest price, I bought my son a Gator ETX off of Amazon for $120 on cyber monday. It's currently around $199, and I like it better than the TonnoPro. All three I bought are soft roll-ups
  9. Very nice! The more I see of that silver, the more I like it. Looks really good on these trucks, especially on TB trim level. What engine you go with on this?
  10. You can actually push the cord in all the way through the gap you make...so it takes some patience initially. I would say that the chord is about 1/2 to 3/4's in... The member that came up with this has a good photo of it installed on his truck.
  11. I use these for a lot of things...this job being one of them. https://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-4-pc-63594.html?_br_psugg_q=trim+tool
  12. Well, you got the 10spd now, right? I am starting to think that there are several causes for the leak that all manifest themselves in the same areas: 1. Cracked window frames 2. Sealant voids around window 3. Leaking spoiler fasteners My rear window was replaced back in Aug. even though the frame wasn't cracked. After they returned it to me, the leak was in a slightly different place, but still at the upper frame and it was worse. Window guy came to my work and pulled headliner down (he cracked it) and then cap sealed all the bolts that hold the spoiler on. He also added additional sealant to the frame of the window from the inside of the cab. VERY sloppy work. Leak free so far. Just went out and checked, and it's been raining here for days in Savannah I just feel if all three issues aren't addressed, you risk potential future leaks. Not to say that these fixes are permanent, but I think the spoiler attach bolts leaking is a bigger deal than we realize.
  13. Use plastic trim tools under the spoiler to lift the spoiler (locally) from the cab. You will only lift it about .125" or so, but it will be enough to get that cord in. You will only do about 2" at a time. Takes about 15/20 minutes once you get going. And yes...you can puncture the material. You may, initially. You'll get the feel for it and what the cord can handle. You can get the trim tools from HF really cheap. DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS!
  14. I am really glad they did the right thing and stepped up to take care of your window. GM is certainly aware of this problem...it's just that nobody knows how permanent the repair is yet. A lot of people on this thread that have had several repair attempts.
  15. The downstream 2nd and 3rd owners of these trucks are going to be screwed. Trucks will be out of warranty by then, and the dealers will be more than happy to temp fix the problem...for a price. Short of an aftermarket repair, I see a lot of these trucks getting solid windows in the future.
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