295/60/20s. Leveled. 4.56 gears. Highway is 13 to 14 mpg at 70 mph and closer to 15 at the 62 mph limit... When the truck was bone stock with 3.73s I had no real problem getting 17 to 18 mpg. Truck is tuned and I run premium fuel but like anything else I have ever owned the tune did nothing for fuel economy and just power.
Lol. No I don't drive one at work and everything I own is GM. If I wanted a Trailboss I would get the LT... and wait to get a 6.2. Owned a 2015 Tundra years back.. what a pile of junk lol.
Nobody seems to understand... a custom trailboss is literally a prettied up W/T. It's a base model optionless truck with nothing for amenities. So yes price wise its attractive because you get nothing for the dollar but the looks on the exterior. At work we get Custom Trailbosses or more basic SLE Gmcs. Everyone likes how the Trailboss looks but nobody wants to drive them if they have a choice. Between the lack of interior storage and totally optionless dash the Trailboss has the SLE is a way nicer truck. The gmcs they get are about 5 grand higher sticker price and I won't doubt they will stop with the Trailboss as nobody likes them in the fleet. The Custom Trailboss is a complete downgrade from the 18 and older Gms they run along with the F150s they can get... but hey.. it has a higher stance, faux dual exhaust and snazzy red tow hooks.
Well it should... the stroke and extra cubic inches should make some torque. This just reinforces me wanting one of these engines on the stand to play with. Be fun to see what a tune does to one in one of the HD trucks but I doubt you will ever get to see it. A tuned L96 is impressively strong when you let it run premium gas.. but this should have no problem beating up on that stock.
Easy... select it. Some configurations you cannot get it but it's a pretty broad option. Things like the 2.7 payload boost option gives you 3.73... or just select 3.73 with the 5 liter etc. The gearing options are under the exterior tab on an F150s build and price. Unfortunately 3.73 is like 4.30s in a gas SuperDuty... not a ton on the lots.
Once you get newer the trucks get better. The afm was really problem prone from 07 to 09. But that aside past 09 you get other improvements namely the 6L80e instead of the junk 4L60e. But if it's cheap and that's what you want it's all a roll of the dice buying high mileage used.
How does the truck sit? You have to be nose high with that setup and how much angle are on those balljoints. Like I levelled my 17 with the stock keys and then added shock spacers, steering stabilizer and the 1" diff drop. I might do a arms on mine in time but only once the stock ones wear out lol.
Shock spacers to start if you don't have them.... the shocks will bottom out long before the a arms. You could have just kept the factory keys and achieved level by the way lol.. new keys are just for the overcrank crowd that want a 4" lift on the cheap. Your angles are bad and if the a arm is hitting along with the angle of that joint you are literally binding in the front end... I mean my own truck is level and doesn't look like that.
I have a second 6.2 in the shop that was a warranty pullout for noise much like mine is making (pistons or wristpins) so now you have me curious as to what part number is in them Haha. I am going to rivet the valley towers closed on that one and remove that pressure relief as that "should" make a gen iv show oil pressure like the gen 3 engines do. Of course adding a cam to it and making some other changes before I plop it in the truck.
Should have read under your name where it says 2009 lol. Hmm... 33 psi must be where it starts to crack as they do not even remotely regulate at that. These should be able to peg the gauge or at least 70 psi or so. My own truck ( 2013 6.2) runs 65 psi Hot at 4000 rpm ( fuel cutoff in park) which from where I am measuring is true pump discharge pressure. Of course the sending unit says 48 psi or so at the same time lol. As far as I know my pump is the same unit the 5.3 uses anyway. You have a secondary relief valve downstream of the pump that is supposed to be fully open at 55 psi... it looks like a little PSV you have on a home air compressor minus the keyring to manually open it lol. The LS is a gerotor pump whereas the gen V is a vein style which is completely different. Plus the gen V has a solenoid controlled bypass that regulates pressure to around 40 psi below 3400 rpm.
No Vlom on mine so that would be irrelevant to my truck. The pressure relief valve in the oil pan is downstream of my reading along with the cam phaser. Dash gauge is more or less useless lol. Swathdiver would have the VLOM and the secondary pressure relief with a cam phaser so it's a lot of losses on his part over and above the normal lol.
My trucks all idle quite a bit.... in winter I won't shut them off over a 12 hour shift. My old 05 has never reset oddly enough though and at 210000 miles. It just rolled over 7000 hours which puts it at 30 miles per engine hour. Nothing else I have has enough miles on it to bother looking lol.
The numbers off the sending unit aren't much better. I pulled oil pressure on my 6.2 from the oil filter boss and had close to 20 psi of differential from there to the sender. Now there is loss from there to the sending unit but how much? I dunno. I swapped the sender and had no change on the truck itself. My reference is a $5000 Crystal IS33 deadweight I have calibrated annually so I believe what it says lol. I need to get an adapter to the threads on the valley cover and take my readings directly from there.
6 liter truck then? If it's a Duramax its 3.73. If it's a 6 liter its 4.10 unless it was a fleet order which being a Denial is highly unlikely. Look in the glove box at the codes. GT4 is 3.73 and GT5 is 4.10.
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