Sure. I'm good with the 63 thanks. Done with the thread.
You have the internet... do your own research just like I can. I'm the only one? From what... 4 people in this thread lol. Okay. Google is your friend. Bobistheoilgiy has lengthy discussions on this.
Pretty much.. or an EA017 Amsoil which I generally use. People get so bent out of shape over something they don't even understand lol. It's a can with media in it... GM says not to use one with a bypass spec less than oem... the 63 is not less than the 48.. voila.
Let's see here... now you have 2 conflicting opinions supposedly backed by GM documentation as the 63 is the higher bypass for the newer engines and the stubby old 48 is definitely not.. lol. This ****** is hilarious... You can use the 63 on an LS with no detrimental effect... but hey... do whatever you want lol.
05 to 07 are direct bolt in. Only pickup trucks and not any of the Avalanches or SUVs as they are coil spring. Look for GT4 on the RPO sticker and of course G80. Starting in 2005 the 1/2 tons all went to drum rear brakes so that's why I say 05 to 07. Anything 04 or older would have rear discs.
So that was taken in May of 2016. I installed that exhaust in October of 2015 lol. No my truck didn't look like the Titanic underneath and still looked great. The factory exhaust would have held up better than this did and the head pipe of course did. I sent these photos and proof of purchase to MBRP to see what their response was. MBRP said that this level of pitting and corrosion was totally normal for their T409 systems in that time frame. Funny... I have had a Magnaflow T409 stainless exhaust on my 05 1500HD for 4 or 5 years now and it still looks nicer than this MBRP did after 8 months on my truck. You can see where i scrubbed the hell out of it with metal polish and a scothbrite and all the pitting it had. No thanks. My 2017 has stock piping (it's an HD so its 3.5") and a muffler swap.. the oem exhaust still looks more or less new after 3 years now lol. Great product MBRP lol. You get what you pay for.
Yup. I took the MBRP off my last Silverado and replaced if with a Borla ATAK... what I wanted and should have bought in the first place. I might have pictures of my old MBRP to show you how terrible it was in around 9 months time.
I have had 4 different MBRP systems and after my Silverado enough was enough. It rusts bad if you drive where they salt the roads... in less than a year I had corrosion and pitting I would expect from a 5 year old exhaust system and I live where we actually don't salt all that heavily or often because it's usually too cold for it to be effective. The black powder coating also fell off almost immediately on 3 different tips I had and one full system. Hell water running down the inner panels of the box and running across the tip took off the "powdercoat". Rustoleum paint honestly held up better than their powder coating did and I could wire wheel the powdercoat off like I was cheap paint. I will never buy anything from MBRP ever again. If I want cheap junk I will buy aluminumized pipe from an exhaust shop.
No.. because it has a higher bypass differential which honestly is kind of meaningless. The 6 liters don't have any sophisticated dual stage oil pumps... it's just a gerotor pump with a relief valve in it exactly how they have been since 1997... All this means is you would need 7 psi higher differential across the filter to cause the filter to bypass oil without running it through the filter media Have you seen an oil pressure loss ever? No... and you won't. Dealers everywhere do it as the 63 is way more common than the 48. If you want to check around GM and Delco say the 63 is a replacement for the 48. Just use the pf63... That bulletin posted above just re-enforces that by stating not to use a filter with a lower PSI differential lol.
Some of you should go get your truck stuck after you have pushed until you see the squiggly and see if you can move.. you are going to have a big surprise when you walk home. This garbage is useless but necessary as people are too lazy to learn how to drive.
I wasn't saying no blackbear doesnt... didn't even address that. I'm an efilive tuner lol... yes so is Blackbear. You commented how they are slow so try someone else.
No... because you have to pay to license that file which if the autocal allows sure but I don't think it does. Search efi live tuners.... don't lol.
Anyone that tunes with efi live (so not Blackbear) can send you a file to use your autocal.
Just use the original ecm... the 05 is a different generation and not worth using. Anybody with HP or EFI live can tune your original ecm. Fun fact... your 5.3 will run well enough on the 4.8 tune you will probably think you don't need the tune at all. When you guys are swapping engines in trucks like these especially V8 to V8 you don't need the harness and ecm... leave that for the guys doing actual LS swaps.
These trucks have a built in leak in the oilpan everyone overlooks. There is a pressure relief valve in the oilpan directly above the oil filter. It can get full of gack, start sticking, get weak just like anything else. When the truck is cold I guarantee your discharge pressure from the pump is probably 50 pounds at idle... that pressure relief in the pan opens fully by 55 psi so its starting to lift already in the 40 something psi range. As your engine warms up that pressure is going to drop and of course with that pressure relief leaking the observed pressure drops too. Case in point is my own truck... a 2013 6.2. I measure pump discharge pressure versus reading at the sending unit. At times I have 20 psi of differential between the two and the only thing between them other than the oil filter is that stupid valve in the oil pan. On anything without AFM I remove it, toss it in the garbage and replace it with a plug. The oil pump has it's own built in relief and this second one was added only to keep pressure below 55 psi on afm equipped engines. Since the trucks all use the same oilpan whether it has afm or not it comes with the valve. I would say in the end your pressure is okay and doesn't warrant tearing the oilpan back off again. That said I would start at that relief valve leaking too easily before the engine being worn... because with regular service at 125000 miles your bearings will probably still have a perfect untouched coating on the surface. I have pulled LS's apart with 300000+ miles and the bearings in the bottom end are still perfect.. With AFM you are supposed to leave the valve in the oilpan in place as it's there to protect the solenoids in the lifter valley and the afm lifters... If you ever pull the pan again you can replace it but otherwise unless you delete that afm rubbish I would leave it installed. Those lifters and solenoids have enough issues already so they don't needed higher than rated pressure tossed at them.
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