Yikes haha. Well you can try the computer but it's probably seeing something it doesn't like and then the misfire occurs. Sometimes that stuff can be flat out a nightmare. My own 2013 6.2 Silverado has a random P0335 code and goes into limp mode here and there. GM started trying to fix it when the truck had less than 5000 miles on it and today it's still there lol. I just bought the truck but i checked it out prior to buying it and the warranty history was colorful. I will get it though
Well unless I come and look at the truck there isn't much more than spitballing. Burn it and collect insurance... hahahaha. Seriously though it could be a wire in a harness on either the coils or the the injectors that is either worn through, broken or broken inside the jacket and sometimes makes contact and sometimes doesn't. Same for any ground or power from the fuse block. It could also be a pin in one of the harnesses not making good connection anymore. Burning it would be a lot easier lol
Well that changes it a lot... so obviously it wasn't the old engine and whatever was wrong with it at this point because the new one still does it as well. I would say get a scanner on it with someone that knows what they are looking at and drive it. You probably will get a better clue. What sensors did you reuse?
Well you missed something so go over it again lol. If you didn't have the issue prior.. swapped the engine and now you do... it's something you did lol. You can swap pcms and see but they don't just randomly go bad unless you fried it somehow on install.
You ever perform a CASE relearn on it after the new engine was put in? That stands for crankshaft angle sensor error. Any shop with a decent scanner can do it and it takes 30 seconds.. or anyone with HP tuners or efilive. If you didn't thats a good chance it's your random misfire cause.
Don't worry... my one employees 2014 doesn't work anymore... well it clunks and bangs a lot and sometimes locks up lol. That mighty 9.5" 12 bolt G80 is dying behind a 5.3 that doesn't get driven that extraordinarily hard.. it just engages a lot and they don't work well with that. Our work environment isn't kind but I will never get anyone to understand that except maybe Karnut lol. Mine never get a chance to die because they are long gone in the metal bin before that time. Has nothing to do with rock crawling or hard core off road... like my trucks are mostly stock suspension and tire wise... its just a stupid design that is half assed and waiting to fail. Why guys get so mad over this inferior junk is funny. So please just keep waiting lol.
Once upon a time I gave my 18 year old female apprentice my one truck for an entire winter. I live in northern Alberta and she did at least 100 miles a day on it which was pretty well all highway. Never had a problem... so if an 18 year chick can handle a truck with a Detroit in the winter I would hope most "men" lol... maybe could. I know that's asking a lot for a dangerous device... Put it this way because I have done it a lot. Don't mention the traction device in the rear, let others drive it and then ask. I have yet to have one person even notice I did anything to the truck. Yes they shock load to engage.... The only way that they wouldn't is if the diff was totally stationary and you moved the components by hand. It needs wheel speed differential which it then "locks" together suddenly at around 100 rpm or so. Good thing those rock solid clutches can let it slip... maybe. I know.. you should never floor your truck with a G80 in it ever from a stop... like who would even think of doing such a thing... The humanity. Being serious I doubt most would even notice if they broke their G80 as really it's easy to strip the gears on the lock plate and the shaft. Then it's just open which combined with the brake lock limited slip would get a good majority of buyers by with no issue. Hell it's all Toyota does in the Tundras... even the TURD Pro Tindra is an open rear end. The 9.5" is nothing special... don't remember the last 10 bolt truck I actually bought lol. The G80 is a joke and why guys defend it I will never know... it's a fragile poorly built piece of shit Gm gives the world of pavement pounders who might spin out on wet grass once in a while. Off road... yeah okay... like what.. a moderately muddy gravel backroad lol. I am pretty sure GM could install hand cranks on their trucks and guys on this site would go on about how much more reliable it was then a starter motor lol. Seems about time GM goes back to rear drum brakes too.. maybe the mid model refresh of these 2019s will do just that.
Not really as the G80 is still the exact same "marvel of design" that it was when it came out in GM trucks in 1973... Its principle of operation is retarded being it shock loads to engage. Shock loading is the most ridiculous way to deal with something under power but GM just keeps on with it. As long as it lives that big bad 60000 mile warranty not to mention if you did damage it Gm would just call it abuse and void it anyway. Eaton designed them for low power applications with slow speed engagement... it's just GM thinks its smart putting over 400 hp engines in front of them. Spools can be dangerous but an actual locker that works correctly is not. I have a Detroit locker in every single truck I own (5 trucks 5 Detroits)... including my 2017. My 2013 6.2 half ton will have one soon enough... I can't stand the operation or lack thereof of the Gov bomb. I actually dug the 9.5" carrier and bearing set I had in storage out today and will probably swap it in the next couple weeks. Carrier swap is an easy job. Fun fact.. GM used to actually offer the Detroit locker as a factory installed option in the 10.5" 14 bolt.. but times have changed. And no the Gov lock is a completely open differential unless the side gear gets locked to the cam plate. But even then as I said it relies on clutch discs to lock.. not a mechanical engagement of any kind. The Ford mechanically locks the side gear to the carrier with a lock plate. The "limited slip" action you get nowdays is from the traction control playing with the rear brakes via the ABS.
Wrong..... They have a driver selectable electric locker in the rear end that you can use in 2wd or 4x4.... been that way for almost 10 years now. Even my el cheapo XLT 2013 XLT extended cab had it and I used it in 2wd all the time. It's a real locker... not like the gov bomb that in the end relies on friction discs to attempt to act like a locker. The Ford set up uses a solenoid to lock the drvers side spider gear solid to the carrier..... voila..... now you have a spool. And an FYI...... your Gov Bomb can't engage over 25 mph either thanks to the fly weights on the engagement pawl so you aren't doing any high speed locked rear adventures. The Ford is a 12 volt operated coil..... want it locked at any speed..... put your power source to it.. not real hard.
Roller cams last forever if they aren't damaged by something like the OP's by a lifter. It's not a flat tappet Gen 1 small block here... GM uses billet cores that are actually better quality than most generic replacement cams. A used one that isn't scarred or damaged is perfect for the guy... and likely can be sourced for free. The OP might come back with some "I would never use used parts" reply too but none the less buy a stock one either way. He said he doesn't want to tune it so stock it is! The stock cam is a actually a decent grind for what it is... the tuning, exhaust and other things are a lot more of an issue..
Just find a stock one then... wrecking yards are full of them. It's really not a terrible cam and the tuning on these LQ4s is so bad even for the engine totally stock adding a cam to it isn't going to do you any favors. It's bad enough running the 60 second power enrichment delay stock with no ignition timing... trying to add more air to that is just going to make it worse. Replace in kind...
They are pieces of pipe that slide over the top studs of the shock between the shock and the bottom of the frame and space in downward. Some outfits make a pretty little block but it does the same thing. You will need new shock nuts as the OEM nuts are like an inch long and only threaded at the top so they don't engage. When we did new shocks on my buddies 2011 they came with new normal lock nuts so we cut the thread off the factory shock nuts and slid them over the studs creating our own spacers for free lol. Pull your shocks out, slide the spacer on the studs and reinstall. Voila.
It is what it is. He screwed up and overdrove the road. So what? Did he wreck or hurt anyone? No. People screw up on the regular. Put the Ram on the same tires at the same co-efficient of friction and watch the same thing happen when both tires break loose and jerk the truck. It happens so fast the computer can't do a damn thing for it or else it would be applying traction control when you floor it on a dry road. I dunno..... I too learned how to drive before this stuff existed and disable it however I can.... in a part of the world with ice and snow a good 7 months of the year. Like just own your own driving mistake and move on with it... not try and say the truck is defective.
And what does this matter? Don't overdrive road conditions and come whining about how the truck didn't compensate to you for your satisfaction. Again.. you have driven for 49 years.... what the hell were you doing for the first 35 of it. Yeesh.
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