Ya if I was doing it over I would have just put a small lift kit in and been done. Even with the shock spacers I agree these shocks must be at the limit or close. That will be another thing I plan to add when its time for some upgrades. diff spacers, longer shocks and UCA's So basically just taking out this level and putting in a lift lol.
I've got a 2017 2500hd with the ready lift keys up front and the dealership cranked the crap out of them... The truck rode like a bag of ...... well you know... I ended up turning down the keys, about 4 turns on each side. Still left me sitting close to level and the ride was 100% better. That being said when I went to crank it down I found what appears to be bent pins and adjuster plates for the UCAs. Probably messing up my alignment. Dealership is going to replace them under warranty but its still an inconvenience. Only thing I can think happened is when the dealership had the keys cranked right up, like I mean UCA solid against the stop the consistent banging of the suspension pulled the UCA out of alignment. This is the worst one, the others aren't much better.
At the dealership right now waiting for them to look at it. But what do you guys think? Is this something I should be concerned with? 2017 2500hd with a 2.25” keys installed the upper control arm adjuster looks bent.
it depends on the offset and how far outside the fenders those stick. if its got a huge offset it shouldn't rub, except maybe at full turn. With my 2 inch level/block I could run a 35" tire, but a 12.5" wide 35 would need about a 3 inch offset I would guess, just to keep it close to stock on the inside, where the rubbing would occur. And you may need to space out the front bumper an inch.
It's a lot of chrome... I won an xpel kit on an auction for next to nothing for the truck shortly after I bought it, so I had him wrap the chrome bumper too. The part thats wrapped is great still but inside the wheel wells on the edge of the bumper where the xpel doesn't cover is showing signs of rust coloration. I clean it up and it will wipe away good but if the rest of the chrome bumper starts to do stuff like that its gonna get a plasti dip or rhino lining done to it. The package didn't do the grill either so I already have a couple chips in the fake chrome on the plastic grill/headlight bezel, which means it will undergo the same plasti dip/rhino treatment in the future.
No problem. This is how it came. Color matched handles and black mirror caps, cloth heated seats, 8” stereo, and all those bells and whistles, plow prep and z71 off road package, and the best option ever.....rubber floor!!! No carpet in this girl. Front and rear bumpers are chrome and the grill. My thought is that they may go black in the future.
She’s pretty stock actually. Still the factory duratracs. Gonna go to a 35” if I ever wear these ones out. Otherwise it’s got 2.25” ready lift keys up front and a 2” ready lift block in the back. Next upgrades would be upper control arms and diff spacers so I could crank up the front a little more. But if I am doing all that I will probably just pull it all out and go to a 6” lift and 37” tires. Overall though ugh I am quite happy with it the way it is. Just high enough to stand out and I can still get through the drive thrus with the sled on the back. Lol.
Ok well I am leveled with a 2.25" keys in the front and a 2" block in the back with the front turned up. Year one was great, loaded up I sat nice and level. However after a few heavy trailer hauls and loads in the truck I noticed that this year my rear is sagging a bit more with the sleds on, almost giving it the nose up look. My best guess is that the springs have settled in the rear some, so I will probably just turn the front keys down a little more. So my suggestion if you want a little more height is put the blocks in the rear and just keep a minimal rake when unloaded and hopefully it will sit fairly level with weight in the box.
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