So about a 13-14 months ago my Sierra All Terrain with 8 speed developed the shudder at 35k miles. Tach fluctuating and the rumble strip feeling. Started under a load like climbing up hills and progressively got worse. Dealer did a flush procedure last year. Today right under 50k, my vibration has showed up again. Started on some steep hills and can tell it some on flat ground at highway speed. You can see the tach bounce even when not vibrating to the extent of noticing. Dropping it off tomorrow afternoon. Guess I will see what round 2 offers? Are they replacing converters still? Or trans rebuild? I also have the occasional delayed engagement. Should I press for extended warranty?
Right but in the era where people spend countless hours doing internet research, with 4 out of 5 articles slamming the interior, including statements like “kick in the pants”, that’s not going to help bring in new customers. The new gen turned off some repeat customers, and hasn’t moved the bar much to bring in the new customers.
I disagree some with the previous posts. GM wasn’t knocked so much from every corner on the interior of the past generations like this one. It’s a competitive market, GM missed it and all the influences in automotive media let it be known. It may satisfy return customers some, but you can’t deny the Ram sales increasing, and the universal praise their interior got. If the sales continue lackluster they will be scrambling to do what they can to get an edge.
The way I see it, GM is trying to balance and even things out between the Chevy and GMC. The elevation is offered in Canada as a crew cab which is puzzling. The RST gets some things a comparable Elevation doesn’t, and the AT4 gets the 6.2 the trailboss doesn’t.
Thanks for the reply. I actually got it figured out yesterday. They installed new door handles and never hooked the rods up. Unfortunately I had to do both sides...and found out the window rail on the bottom of the glass is rotted out.
Just picked up a 98 K3500 for a spare truck. Not long after I found the drivers door won’t lock. The power function works, but trying to lock the door from the inside or with the key on the cylinder does nothing. The key turns in the lock freely. Could this be as simple as a rod popped off?
Thanks for trying that out. I typically run in m7 myself on my AFM truck to try to prevent lifter damage. I typically don’t run it in m8 unless I’m on the highway and the rpms are high. As soon as the warranty runs up, I will be disabling it all together.
Slightly off topic but I’ve yet to get an answer. On the older trucks, you could select manual mode and have it in the second highest gear (m5 or m7) and that disables AFM. Does that still work on the new style?
A simple switch in the receiver that would be pushed in while a receiver was inserted would of been enough, but that would add 15 cents per truck you know. I do agree it seems primitive, but if we can’t have tailgates we lower ourselves, and they have to be fancy and sophisticated, they might as well cover all the bases.
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