Doublebase

I'll have to start doing that, my truck did come with two free oil changes, I've used one but I don't think I'll use the other...I can't stand having someone work on my truck and I probably waited 2 hours for that oil change to get done. It was a pretty bad experience...and when they set it up on the lift all of the under coating got pushed off (had to refinish it). Did I mention I'm OCD? Lol

Yeah I take mine off if I need to take it to the dealer...usually takes me 10 minutes (although I don't have the quick disconnects). Dealer will definitely document and use it against you later down the road...then when you need that warranty repair you'll be in for a fight. Another thing I worry about is oil changes, I do them myself and I've heard they've denied warranty repairs if there's not documentation of oil changes (and I don't save my receipts). Probably should.

Depends, I mean the engine vacuum seems pretty "normal" or in range to me compared to other engines I've seen. I think part of the problem might be air/oil separation through the PCV system...GM has neglected this in the past, only later to have to come back and correct it. But oil tracking into the intake manifold does happen with lots of other manufacturers and engines. Owned a Lexus 460 for years...that intake always seemed to have oil in it...I'd even see it tracking through the fresh air portion of the PCV system, right up the air snorkel and into the throttle body. Something maybe to consider with these engines is that manifold vacuum drops when it goes into V4 mode, that's the reason why the brake booster is not fed by manifold vacuum, but rather from a vacuum pump...because they couldn't chance drops in vacuum effecting braking. Now what I wonder is, when the switch from V4 to V8 mode occurs...might there be a vacuum "snap", a sudden uptick in vacuum that pulls in more oil initially? Just a thought.

I'd say that's probably mostly true because of the amount of oil being caught in the can, still there must be some blowby in that crankcase to push it up like that. Like I said, it's been like this since it was new. Truck runs fine (35,000 miles now). I work in the industry, I see a fair amount of these things pretty regularly. I usually pull the dipstick on all of them before an oil change to check for oil loss (out of curiosity). I've never seen a single one that wasn't down on that dipstick (5,000-6,000 mile intervals). The 2014's are the worst (at least from what I've seen)...we service one regularly and she can't keep the oil in it...uses a quart every 1,000 miles. But I'd say most are more like mine...1/2-3/4 quart of use over the OCI. I've talked to some Chevy techs, they say it's pretty normal - that these things do use some oil - but not nearly as much as the 2008-2013's I'd also add that AFM failure is not nearly as widespread as people in the chat rooms claim. We service many of these trucks...mileage ranging from 30,000- 150,000. Haven't seen one failure yet. Talk to people at the dealer and they tell me it so not as frequent as people think. That more people complain of the switch from V4 to V8...how it feels etc, rather than lifter failure. There literally is over 3 million of these engines on the road right now, most people don't experience AFM failure.

I'm using about 3/4 a quart between oil changes. Has been that way since new. My interval is 5,000 miles. Last three oil changes have been Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 (x2) and Rotella Gas Truck 0w20. I'm due for another soon, I'll probably try the Rotella again, as there is a rebate going on until the end of the year (it'll end up costing me around $2 a quart after the rebate).

It is probably close to a quart of oil over 5,000 miles...and in the winter a good mix of condensation. I haven't actually heard of any issues with carbon buildup on the valves on these engines, but it's got to be there. Can't be a good thing. And I shouldn't say that I've never heard of any problems, but just nowhere near as wide spread as early DI engines in the Audi's and BMW's. But yeah I'd prefer to catch it before it goes in that intake.

I just emptied mine five minutes ago...should have taken a picture...half full (1,500 miles). People praise this cheap $30 dollar can on Amazon...I can see why...for the money you can't beat it.

Yeah and honestly I just didn't see the point, I mean the thing was doing it's job right away. I mean after the first day I had 100 miles on it, opened it up and yup, there was oil in there. Showed some guys I worked with and they were like...this is from one day?? So I didn't bother with the steel wool (plus the can isn't so small). I do wish the can was bigger and I wish it had a drain valve on the bottom (I probably could thread one in though). I still run seafoam into the intake every 5,000 miles regardless. Just take the hose off the can, turn the engine on, and slowly poor it right I tim the disconnected hose. I find that easier than trying to spray past the throttle plates. I have tried to send a boroscope camera down the intake to take a look at the valves but it's nearly impossible to get a camera in there - the only way to really tell if it's helping is to remove the intake (someday I'll give it a look).

I have that exact same cheap catch can from Amazon, installed it when the truck had 10,000 miles...now at 35,000 miles. The thing does catch oil. Haven't had any issues with it whatsoever. I usually drain it every 1,500 miles...depending on the weather it's usually half full or so. Winters you'll get a mix of water, condensation, oil...in the summer it's more oil and less full obviously. I lamost added some extra media to the can to catch more oil, but honestly the thing works so well, I never bothered. I've gone through two very cold winters with it, the key is to just empty it, if you do you'll have no problems. Now the real question is...how much is it helping? Is it worth it? For the price I figure...hey it can't hurt. Now if I spent $200 on the thing, I might feel different.

34,000 miles and they look new - it depends on the way you drive, if it's all highway they're going to last 100,000 plus.

Haven't checked on this thread in a while, what's you're mileage at now, grumpy? Have you gotten to 100,000 yet? I'm currently at 34,000, but once September rolls around I'll be doing my 100 mile a day commute (I'm a teacher). I've only put 2,200 miles on the truck this summer, but she's ready to roll again! Just did a wash and wax, touched up a few paint chips, reconditioned the interior...should be do for an oil change and rotation in the middle of September, then an undercoating treatment in November. Year two of my Silverado ownership is set to roll. Oh and I'll be adding new tires in November too, should be at 40,000 miles by then and the stock Bridgestones are getting a little too thin for winters around here.

I owned a Lexus LS460 for five years, I thought the Genesis was similar in looks and suspension design. Real nice cars. My friend has a 2017 G70 or G80...beautiful car.

What's your wife's car?

I was talking about this with a friend of mine the other day (we both own Silverados). He asked if I get sick of driving a truck and want to purchase a sedan (he's buying a Dodge Charger for a second vehicle), and I told him, well not really because my commute is a lot different than yours. I just get on the highway and go...easy driving, no stop and starts, don't have to park it in crowded parks lots, etc. But I must say if I DID have to use it like that? Yeah I'd get tired of it. And I do think a car or smaller SUV could be fun at times...especially for around town stuff...doing errands, going shopping, going out to dinner. I used to use my truck for that and it was a bit of a pain trying to find parking spots that I wouldn't be hanging the rear end out into the street...or having to worry about hitting something in tight quarters. Stuff like that, it's just so much easier in something smaller - you can effortlessly whip it around those parking lots - and you can drive faster and fun.

I think most manufacturers have gone away from cars, expect Toyota, because they’re not selling. People want trucks and suv’s. The family sedan is dead. I think even Toyota has had some decline in their car division - the Avalon is having sales problems, even though that’s a beautiful car. Camry and Accord I think are the only two I see regularly on the road, along with some commuter cars (Civics, Prius, Fit). But that’s kind of a different segment. For families (which is a huge market), the trucks and suv’s have taken over. But I see your point for sure, the car market is probably a bargain compared to the truck and SUV market...cheaper initial cost, better fuel economy, probably better buyer incentives. I guess an argument can be made that if you have one vehicle that can do everything for you, instead of two, maybe the cost is cheaper or the same? I kind of did that with my situation...traded in my car, sold my second hand pickup and bought the Silverado. Wife has an SUV. Don’t know?

I think it's more because Toyota's other vehicles in their lineup get great fuel economy (Prius, Yaris, Corolla, RAV4, Hybrid Camry, Hybrid Highlander, etc, etc). I think that allows them to meet CAFE regulations without having to worry so much about their full sized trucks and SUV's...whereas GM has lagged behind in that department. I could be wrong - not sure exactly how many vehicles GM has in their lineup that are hybrid and how it effects the CAFE formula.

I'm going to have to try that (putting it in m5), when driving around town roads going 40-45 because that is when I don't like the AFM either - I can feel it shifting in and out as the transmission doesn't know what the hell to do - it drives me nuts and I have to think it's bad for the transmission to constantly be shifting gears like that. However on the highway I find it's great, I'm actually averaging 24.4 mpg since I've owned this truck...that's not a careful one week of driving, that's 33,000 miles of various driving conditions! AC on in the summer, freezing cold starts in the winter, mostly highway weekly commute, with a lot of around town driving on the weekends. I'll try that manual 5 thing for the around town stuff and see if I think helps...I really don't want to tune the AFM off and I figure I have a warranty until 60,000 (so at least I'm covered with the lifters until then). From what im reading it looks like sooner or later I'll have to make a decision on the AFM/lifter situation. My hope is this...I'd like to make it through the life of my loan before I run into lifter failure, then when the truck is payed off (and I don't have a payment), I may permanently delete it and not worry about gas mileage/amount of money I spend at the pump. I bet this thing would drive so smooth without it. So I need to make it 5 years and 150,000 miles. Lol

Yeah that would really bother me...I'd be done.

Well 33,000 miles later and everything seems ok (averaging 24.5 mpg over the life of the vehicle). Change the oil every 5,000 miles, no mods aside from a catch can. We'll see how it goes...hoping for the best but won't be shocked if/when it happens. Reading through a couple of posts on here regarding dealer feedback...I have a totally different experience of feedback. When I ask about the lifter collapse they tell me it's a non issue, that people complain about the "feeling" of when it switches between V4/V/8, but as far as repairs, it doesn't seem to be a major issue where I am. I mean they may just be lying to me (talked to 3 different dealers). And i do work with 6 different people that own these trucks, none of them have had an issue yet (although one does experience bad oil consumption). And one of them has over 200,000 miles now. Personally on mine, I do experience some oil use...probably 1/2-3/4 a quart over 5,000 miles.

Alternator? Lol, I probably would have lost my mind at that point. I consider myself very lucky that the truck only had to go to the dealer once for this issue because the tow truck girl was able to get it start, and it started at the dealer. But luckily the tech said he was able to get the starter to act weird once, so they threw a starter into it. Tell you what, I don't know if they're using different starters now...if they've made changes to who's manufacturing them now...but the starter they put in it sounds different/feels different, than my other starter ever did. It's faster, you can hear it engage and spin faster. I know that sounds crazy but it's different. I asked the dealer if they replace many starters on the 2014-2018's he said, yeah some but not an unusual amount. Meanwhile the tow truck driver said they see these trucks all of the time. Well my next starter failure will be on me, as my warranty will be out soon, but it looks like a real easy starter to replace.

Dealer replaced the starter. Works great now. Battery tested fine, cables good, no voltage drop on the connections...the starter just gave out. Honestly kind of surprised the starter went after only a year and 32,000 miles. Great truck so far though...at least I finally got to use that bumper to bumper warranty.

Well it wasn't the PCM fuse. Tow truck came, girl gets out and says...I see these things all the time, these things need a lot of juice to start. She puts her jumper box on it and it fires up. WTH? I tried jumping it with TWO different jump packs...then I went the old fashioned route and used jumper cables. One click. The battery is one year old. I literally drove it the less than two hours before we had what was the most violent microburst rain and lightning storm I've ever seen. Next day it won't start. Didn't seem to be any amperage draw on the battery...didn't leave a light on, nothing was plugged in. Water shorted out something. Something is wet. The girl said the starter solenoids are crap on these trucks...haha, I laugh because I did read that on this forum. So now the dealer will start it, it'll be fine and they'll tell me to pick up. Great. Then I'll get stuck again.

Ok thanks, I'll give that a quick try before I get it towed.

Yeah battery was fine.

2018 5.3...rained like crazy last night...32,000 miles, original owner, battery and connections appear to be good. Just one click. Crawled under there and hit it with a hammer, didn't help. I can hear the solenoid coming out but it won't turn. I read that the starters on the 2014's had issues with moisture, but I thought they had "fixed" that. Anyone know anything about starter issues on the 18's? Called the dealer - it being a holiday week they said they're pretty backed up. Might be able to get to it this week, might not. I figured...I can't be bothered with this crap, I'll just throw a starter in myself. Called the parts store, they can't even get a starter for the flex fuel 5.3 (which tells me maybe they do fail a lot??). And the price would be $240. So I guess it's going to the damn dealer.