Doublebase

Probably just more conversational than anything else (I like talking car maintenance). Yeah I'm really hoping I can get some pictures of those valves, and if they don't look "good", I'll probably scrap the catch can (as it can be a little bit of a pain to empty every 3-4 weeks). Well I shouldn't say it's a pain, but if it's not helping I'm not going to bother. But just a recap of my maintenance history with this vehicle...owned since new, oil changes every 5,000 miles...diff fluid changed at 25,000 miles, transmission fluid changed at 25,000 miles. Mostly highway commuting. The truck has a pretty easy life, but it is driven a ton. I love the stories of the older engines making it to such high mileage, definitely something I'm not used to seeing. In my opinion those days, that technology wasn't known for that in general. Exceptions? Yes, certainly your family figured it out with their methods. But I find the port injection engines have been...well it's been a pretty good run in terms of longevity. They did go through their hiccups but up until direct injection hit the scene (and cafe regulations), it was pretty common to see a lot of those engines lasting to 250,000 miles without major problems (even without great maintenance history). I think there's been an adjustment period with direct injection...a cutting of the teeth, so to speak. As for the cars ive seen come into the shop, I'll tell you there's just some designs...some brands where it doesn't matter what you do, they were just poorly designed and there was no saving them. Whether it was cooling system design, or lubrication system design...some engines (not many) are just poorly designed. They're mistakes and they're talked about in the industry forever. It's stuff you just see over and over...whether it was Toyota's 3.0 sludge monster...or GM's intake gasket failures on 3.4's. Nothing was going to stop it from happening. The Silverados I think are pretty solid, I do see the oil usuage on them though...like I said it's been on every one of them we service. But like I also said, that's pretty "normal" on direct injection cars in general right now. I have seen a few of the 2012's with the oil fouled spark plugs. I also see a lot of the 2014's and up, being stuck in 4wd (it's best to shift it back into 2wd overnight if it gets bellow freezing). But other than that everyone seems to be happy with them. I love mine, I'm hoping with great maintenance I can take this thing to 300,000 without major repairs.

I just think it's strange that you compare today's engines with engine technology from two generations ago. I know I don't want to go back to carbureted engines. I don't want an engine like that, where they were so filthy inside that the driveability and lifespan was reduced. Carbon on valves can effect a few things, power, efficiency, and engine knock. It also can break off and enter the cylinder, scouring the walls. It even can cause the valve to not seat poroperly and cause compression loss and misfires. I mean, it's not exactly an ideal situation. And for the people saying...oh it's fine, it's nothing, it's no big deal. Well some of us do notice these things, we don't just Gas and go everyday. We care a little bit...we want the thing to run optimally for 300,000 miles without major repair. I know you're one of those people. Keep in mind your V6 is different than the V8...maybe not much different in mechanical design but it does not go into V4 mode nearly as much. And for whatever reason - whether it's the V4 mode, engine vacuum from more cylinders, tuning, whatever - the V8 uses more oil, and feels different than the V6. The V6 doesn't switch as much, doesn't get that low speed preignition fish biting feeling, and it doesn't shift gears nearly as much. It drives and feels totally different. I love the V8, I am averaging 26 mpg again now that the welter has warmed up, but the thing uses oil. It has from day one. I have talked to GM techs, I run a facility in which I see several of these things everyday (the V8's use oil). And it goes right into that intake and it coats right onto the back of those valves. Every single damn one of them that come in, I check it, they all use oil. I'm sure some will chime in...mine doesn't use oil...well I'm happy for you, I've just never seen it. As far as catch cans go, hey I don't know if they're the "answer". I think someone posted above that it did help, it's a bandaid...it's a slowing down the effects, type of thing. I did install one - a cheap one - but it seems to "catch" quite a bit. I know the cheap cans are thoroughly roasted by the catch can "experts", but I did my research. Again, I'm not a catch can junky, I could care less. And I don't believe cleaners and fuel injector cleaner this, cleaner that...seafoam...CRC, magic unicorn tears, is going to do much of anything. But it doesn't cost me much to try, and it doesn't take me long to empty a can every few weeks and run a "cleaner" through every oil change. Just my 2 cents. I'll be changing my oil next week, I'll try to remember to take a picture with a boroscope. Not sure if one can get in there and really get into those ports but I'll try (I've been meaning to take a look). 30,000 miles, 5.3, 2018...catch can since 10,000 miles, bought the truck new last year.

Those valves don't look reassuring to me. And 130,000 miles? I mean, I thought 130,000 miles wasn't supposed to be high mileage anymore? Those valves look like something I'd expect to see from a carbureted motor at 130,000 miles, from someone who never changed the oil and beat the tar out of it.

I'm not surprised they're not providing a recall, even with a safety function like the brakes. Extended warranties seems to be the way manufacturers go if they can get away with it. I owned a Lexus LS460, their brake actuators would fail. Lexus would not recall them despite it bei a common and dangerous issue. Instead they extended the warranties on them for a few years and a certain mileage threshold. Once you were out of that you were on the hook for the repair yourself. It was a $3,500 dollar repair. Mine was starting to go - out of extended warranty of course - I traded it in and got rid of the headache. Spending $3,500 for a part that isn't a major component like a transmission or engine is too rich for my blood.

Sorry to hear about your loss...four in ten days? Wow that’s terrible.

Nice thread, read most of it on flight to (and from) Vegas...14 hours...picking away at it little by little here and there. Kept the incredibly long flight a little more interesting. I like the passion of trying to achieve a level of vehicle reliability and longevity through maintenance and ppersonal preferred methods, I don't agree with all of it but I appreciate and admire it. The latest post - getting a vehicle to last and perhaps saving money by not having to purchase the "next" vehicle within third or even fourth cycle - is something I've done before and it requires maintenance and good driving habits (all of which are obviously on display here). You really do save a small fortune keeping a vehicle super long term, and maintaining it so it can get to that 250,000-350,000 mark. Along the way you will have to make a rather large investment into maintenance, the key is deciding what is that "point" and where is that "line" to maintain a vehicle for longevity and enjoyment (excellent condition). I probably differ a great deal in that regard to the OP, but I agree to attempt it is fun in some sort of weird way, and an excellent way to save maybe $50k-$70k longterm with today's vehicle costs. So keep up the good work, Grumpy, inspirational thread! Truly a one of a kind trip into vehicle maintenance, modification and data. I will check in fequently. Personally I have taken a vehicle to 287,000 miles before selling it...probably saving myself $50,000 in the process. That allowed me to pay off my house sooner, save for another vehicle etc. I think a real key is selecting the "right" vehicle for the job. And that's tough because you can't go on vehicle reputation always for that task...vehicles can be cyclical in their reputation for reliability...a few years of greatness and then the manufacturer changes the fuel delivery system or transmission specs and manufacturer. It's tough. Hopefully I can get my 2018 Silverado to 300,000 and beyond, not sure yet, there are some things I'm leery of, but that might make it even more of a challenge and interesting.

We just got a good rainfall the other day, it was badly needed to remove some of the salt residue on the roads. It looks like winter is almost over where I am, although you never know...last April 15th we got a few inches, and of course the road brime and salt stayed around until May. I really am kind of on a quest to keep this truck "rust free", or close to it. How long I'll be on this kick I don't know. Lol. But right now I'm still hot on it. I'm actually excited to get under it and clean up some spots and apply another coat of protection. I think I'm getting really weird. I go through these fazes.

Understood. I try to save as much as I can, or spend with cost effectiveness in mind. I think it cost my buddy and I $150 for a five gallon container of fluid film, but I have a compressor and spray gun...should last me ten years (I’m not kidding). So I’m into it for $75...we’re four treatments into this container and it doesn’t look like we’ve even put a dent into it, but yeah if I had to pay $120 bucks a wack, I wouldn’t do it either.

Honestly you might want to Krown it twice a year. I fluid film my truck twice a year - and even that's not good enough - these "wet" rust applications do wash off....fluid film probably easier than the Krown. There's another product out there...can't remember the name of it...starts with a C and they use to preserve weapons (and people use it on frames, it's much more durable while also staying wet). I just am finishing up with four months of salt on my 2018 myself....FF treatments and I only have rust in the spot where the lift arm goes under the frame (left front side). Other than that it looks pretty damn good....and I'm talking a LOT OF SALT. Every single day, just bathes in that stuff...I can't avoid it. Living in New England has to be one of the worst places on earth for rust. Well except for Canada, you guys invented salt brime. lol

20,000-30,000 a year is nothing? Lol, it’s twice as much as the average driver does. Im always amazed at the guys who put 50,000-60,000 a year on their cars/trucks. Those are the stories I enjoying reading about the most. Definitely not enough of them, probably because they’re work trucks and people who use them for work/construction don’t really have an interest or connection to the vehicle outside of work/business. I guess? I don’t know.

I'm about a month away from my "one year of ownership, point", and I currently have 26,000 miles on my 2018. I expect to end the year at 28,000. I actually started driving the wife's car on the weekends because I was on pace for 36,000 miles and I thought...do I really want to be out of my bumper to bumper warranty before the year is even out? I like the truck, I haven't had any real issues with it, I've managed to average 24.1 mpg during that time...although cold weather driving over the last four months has really chipped away at that (before the winter my average was 25.9, I'm serious). Now on a typical week I end up averaging 22. The only real thing I can complain about is the transmission...the way it seems to shift from one gear to the next...up, then down, up then down...as the V8 switches to V4. It doesn't "bother me", but I worry about damage to the transmission, the constant engagement of one gear to the next...doesn't seem like that's a good thing. At times it feel harsh, at times it doesn't. Like sometimes you can feel it kind of go into that gear, at times it's less noticeable. Sometimes you can hear a clunk, sometimes you can't. Once I'm on the highway really moving it's fine, but those back roads going 40 with someone slow in front of you? The thing gets very antsy and doesn't seem to know what to do. But great truck so far...looks good....good power....great gas mileage. Haven't had one leak or had one trip to the dealer. Installed a catch can, I've undercoated the thing twice already...going to do it a third time after the winter. Very quiet and comfortable ride. Thing drives straight down the road despite hitting several pot holes this winter.

I'm now 21,000 miles into this thing (2018 LT 5.3) and my lifetime average is 24.5. The winter has dragged it down some - in the warm weather I generally average 25-26 mpg during my weekly 600 mile commute (mix highway/back roads). My lifetime average before winter hit was 25.1 at that time. I'm now averaging 23.5 a week doing the same commute, but in temperatures in the 20's. Knock on wood, the truck has been great in so many ways. Very versatile machine. No problems yet.

I feel the same way, the V4 is great for me in a lot of instances and gets me great gas mileage, but there are times I'm noticing where I wish I could shut it off. Like if I'm stuck behind someone driving slow...the thing bogs down and constantly switches in and out of V4, seemingly not knowing what to do. But those are rare occasions and the person really has to be driving slow, otherwise I love the V4. If I towed or plowed, I'd definitely want the V8 on all the time.

Something else to consider that I never even thought of until now, this fish bite sensation when the engine is cold may not necessarily be the transmission. It could be the engine. Direct injection engines suffer from preignition and engine knock when it's cold. The knock sensors could be peeling back on the timing, causing the jerky, sort of fish biting sensation. Then it warms up and goes away. But like ive said before, I've been experiencing this since my truck was new back in April (2018 Silverado 5.3). I now have 16,000 miles...no change for better or worse. The thing is driving excellent aside from this cold start issue.

I've used it and I like it, goes on a little thicker than the Amsoil or Fluid Film. Seems to last a little longer. Then again with it being thicker it may not weep into the various crevice (that those other companies claim is important). And I agree, you can't stop rust, but you can slow it down quit a bit with effort. One good thing...it takes a lot to rust these frames to the point where it'll fail inspection or need a piece welded in...so yearly maintenance should only help.

My personal oil usuage... 2007 Lexus LS460 - Never used a drop until it reached 120,000 miles, then when it hit 150,000 it started drinking oil. 1 quart every 1,000 miles. 1999 Honda Accord 4cyl - Never used a drop until it got over 200,000 miles, then it started - got gradually worse up until it reached 270,000 - then it was using a quart every 500. 2008 Honda CRV - That thing uses almost no oil. 5,000 mile synthetic oil changes. I'll use anything that's on sale for it. Uses almost nothing, never have to top up. 2018 Silverado - I'm using a half quart between 5,000 mile oil changes...maybe more. I run a rather large repair facility, I always pull the dipstick before an oil change out of curiosity to see what various cars are using. I've never seen a newer GM truck that wasn't low on oil. Some of them more than others...but I've never seen one right up to the full mark. And one of them is never showing oil at all on that dipstick (60,000 miles 2014, 5,000 mile oil changes). We've told her to take it to the dealer and see if they'll install new rings. She could care less...most people don't.

Here's it is, some good stuff in this thread.

Excellent. And I'll have to keep an eye on how the Pennzoil performs during this interval - this is the first time I've used Pennzoil. You mentioned rust prevention in another post, you'll have to post what you're doing in the frame rust thread. I too am in the process of trying to protect my vehicle from rust (I live in the salt belt). I've used 3M, Fluid Film and some undercoati touch up on some areas where the wax came off. Curious to see what you're doing.

Yeah I may give Amsoil a try, only problem is I no longer do extended drains (I blame the oil consumption on my last vehicle for it). And I believe direct injection engines do a number on oil. So if I spend on the Amsoil it'll be getting dumped at 5,000 miles (seems like a waste). But I may do it anyway...try it once and see how it goes.

Well good luck, keep us posted. Down the road if you're ever able to take a photo of the inside of your intake with your endoscope, I'd be interested in seeing what it looks like. Wish we had the same engine and then we could kind of compare notes, etc. It sounds like we both do a lot of driving...easy driving. I'm at 30,000 miles a year but I may start using my wife's vehicle on the weekends to drop it down some. And I read through your maintenance post and you have similar techniques (engine break in, initial oil change intervals, etc). I will admit that I don't use as high a quality oil as you - then again I haven't reached 20,000 miles yet - but I have used a dexos approved synthetic since new, with a factory filter. First oil change was at 900 miles, then at 3,000...now I've settled in at 4,500-5,000 mile changes. I'm running Pennzoil Platinum right now. what makes a ring seal? Tension? The ring to wall fit and ring tension. And I'd say lands would be abviously a huge factor after that point (if the rings were to get stuck in the lands). You've probably seen that before - when a ring is stuck in a land its like you don't have a ring at all. That correct or am I wrong?

Well first off, grumpy, I don't think anyone is calling you an idiot, so I don't think you need to get self conscious or defensive about it. Everything is going to be ok. If not you have your methods. Lol. The hose you show there does look very impressive. It's in a vice, correct? You removed it and placed it in a vice? Nice. That hose - at least on the 5.3 engine - goes from the crankcase to the intake. The hose goes up. At least on my vehicle gravity easily allows any oil to flow back down into the crankcase. I have removed mine and I will admit mine does not look as clean as yours (although depending on a number of factors I imagine they wouldn't look the same). Here's mine (top and bottom. Top is spotless. Gravity drains the oil back down to the bottom where it shows a little bit of a trace of oil staining, nothing major) Now i I can tell you that this, this hose, looks totally different than what I catch in my catch can, and what it looked like inside my intake (prior to the catch can). I emptied my catch can last week. I'll have to post a picture of what I'll catch after 1,000 miles, on an easily driven, well maintained vehicle with 15,000 miles on it. You evidently do have some sort of outstanding driving and maintenance methods if you are avoiding this. And to that, congratulations. You are doing something that I personally could not.

I'm burning around a half a quart in 5,000 miles, so I'd say you're doing excellent. Plus my truck only has 15,000 miles on it. This light weight oil is doing no favors to engines and oil consumption nowadays. I wish they'd design an engine that uses 5w30 again, and still manage to get under their CAFE regulations. I probably will switch to 5w30 eventually but I worry about variable valve timing and the AFM system and how it uses the oil to activate those systems.

Signature series I think does have a 6 rating in NOACK, which is excellent, but keep in mind you're talking about a $12 a quart oil = $96 dollar oil change, not including the filter. Any Dexos approved oil has to have a NOACK bellow 13. Most name brand synthetic 0w20 oils are between 10-12. I think direct injection engines are causing a lot of our oil to mist right through the PCV valve system. And I think fuel sprayed directly on the piston/cylinder walls is another part of the problem. I've read the fuel is mixing with the oil on the walls and actually igniting. I've also heard particulates are accumulating on piston ring lands, causing the rings to become "stuck", which is leading to too much consumption and blowby. I've heard the rings are in worse shape than in Diesel engines. I'll be monitoring my Silverado closely - right now I'm only burning a half a quart between 5,000 mile intervals - but I have personally seen Silverados burning three quarts between 5,000 mile changes. I have already dealt with excessive oil consumption in my previous direct injected vehicle (Lexus LS 460). It began using a quart every 1,000 miles. And I took damn good care of that car - I was absolutely anal with maintenance - and I babied that thing like you wouldn't believe. No car on the road had an easier highway commute.

You seem to value maintenance and take pride in prolonging the life exptency of a vehicle, I do too. You mentioned in another post that you can control what goes into your intake (probably by driving your vehicle responsibly and maintaining it correctly). You're going to disagree with me here, but I'm going to tell you that you can't. That you will be shocked at just what is going into your intake, through the PCV valve system, in a direct injection engine. I too thought I could just "take it easy" on my gas pedal, maintain my new truck and I wouldn't experience half the stuff others do. Wrong. My 2018 Silverado - with only 15,000 easily driven, well maintained miles - experiences what I'd call pretty substantial oil/mist/fuel/blowby, entering my intake through my PCV system. I installed a catch can and I have been somewhat shocked at what it is catching. And I'm not talking water, I'm talking oil that looks as if it's been diluted with fuel (probably because it is ). I was in a variable valve timing class last week, I asked the instructor what he thought of oil catch cans. He said he absolutely recommends them on any direct injection vehicle. That he has one himself. Then half the hands in the class went up, and they had the catch cans too. I've had mine for the last 2,000 miles or so.

Red Line is definitely considered top of the line oil. I wonder if the NOACK level of redline has helped?