Doublebase

I have 33,000 miles on my truck now (bought her new April last year). I was on pace for 30,000 miles before the year was out, so I decided to stop using it on weekends and take the wife's Honda when we go out. It's a pain to park anyway, and honestly it may save it a few dents and dings. But I'll still be driving 25-28k a year regardless (80 mile round trip commute) - the problem I have is I drove MOST in the winter months and not much in the summer - as I'm a teacher and off the summers. Before trying the Rotella Gas Truck I was using Pennzoil Platinum almost exclusively (although I did try Super Tech once and I did go in for my "free" oil change at the dealer...lord knows what kind of concoction they threw in it). The Rotella Synthetic Gas Truck appears to have a high moly content, along with a ridiculous amount of hype, marketing and rebates until the end of the year. The oil has gathered a lot of steam on Bob's The Oil Guy, but honestly it's just a gimmick Pennzoil product with more moly and a fancy jug. I keep my oil change intervals to 5,000 miles, the truck isn't pushed hard, I don't haul anything...but it does get driven. Regarding salt...it's my biggest fear. Lol. Honestly, I'm nuts when it comes to rust prevention. I'm constantly looking under there to make sure every part of that frame is protected with something. Right now that frame wax has had three coats of fluid Film put on it. A few weeks ago I removed the tail lights and blasted some fluid Film up behind them (I've seen some of the 2014's rust up behind there). I'm always looking for new things to try, right now I'm stuck on the fluid film simply because I have five gallons of it, once that's gone I may try something else (it washes away a bit too easily for my liking).

Wow you're driving a lot! Good to see you're still using the redline, and based off of what you're saying, not using much oil between changes. I've stayed with the recommended 0W20, but I may experiment with the 0W30 in the future. Right now I'm using Rotella's Synthetic Gas Truck oil. We'll see how that goes - as my truck generally uses 3/4's of a quart between 5,000 mile intervals. As the weather has warmed up I'm back to averaging 25.9 mpg again (87 octane), set cruise to 68 mph highway, easy on the throttle and most importantly...let the damn thing coast. I love the other side of a hill, this thing will glide it's way to South America if I let it. That is absolutely key for me. I once owned a Dodge Ram (2004), 5.7 liter 4x4 - nice truck but the thing just never could coast - don't know if the gears wouldn't allow it...it would just slow down and demand that fuel to keep it going...all...of...the...time. I averaged 15 mpg in that thing, and that was with some effort. I've said it before, I'll say it again...the 5.3, whether it's programmed to switch into V4 or whether it's geared to...goes in to V4 a lot. Cruise set to 68 will keep me in V4 mode I'd calculate, 70% of the time. It'll stay in V4 mode almost always on flat highway and it will stay in V4 mode going up some pretty long hills (I don't know the exact grade, not too steep, but it definitely will stay in V4 mode climbing slight highway inclines at 68 mph). I have read that the more frequently your truck is in V4 mode, the more likely you'll have a lifter collapse. Nothing I can or will do about that, if it happens it happens. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it...I can perform the job myself for maybe $800 in parts. If I make it till 150,000 mikes without issue?? That's less than what most people spend to have their timing belts replaced, I'm good with that. And you just reminded me, I need to detail my engine bay...pollen is everywhere. I'll have to be careful...I fluid Film the inside of my engine bay (don't want to wash it all off).

Yeah I haven't either, in fact I bought mine with the assumption (because of what I've read, that covers don't help fuel economy). I just didn't really buy it for that, I bought it so I could leave some things in the bed without them getti rained on, which it works great for. However if it does improve fuel economy, like some are claiming, well that's great.

Yes it is widely known that tonneau covers do not increase fuel economy.

Good points I'll also add...alternator and lower battery voltage due to the cold. It will affect fuel economy when the alternator puts a drag on the engine to charge the battery. Another thing is heated seats and steering wheel...those two things I found to be factors. Cold starts and rich fuel mixtures, tire pressures...on and on. So many factors. It is interesting, and you're right, winter fuel is also one of those factors to consider.

Understood, but air density plays a roll in fuel economy...cold air=more dense. The computer adjust fuel ratios to meet stoichiometric 14.7 to 1 air fuel mixtures...the colder the air, the more dense, means more fuel. Mass air flow sensors, manifold absolute pressure sensors and intake air temperature sensors are easily able to determine air density and temperature. On the same tank of gas, winter blend or not, I will receive better fuel economy when the temps go above 40 degrees. Also on cold morning starts the computer will demand the fuel injectors to pulse width rich until parameters are met (engine temp, closed loop, O2 sensor feedback, etc).

Have you changed your spark plugs? I'd do that first, if not. As for the valve cleaning, if the dealer is going to charge you $600 to manually clean them, why not take it to a trusted independent that would probably charge less than that? It can't be hard to remove that intake, it's right there on top...I understand you maybe think you can't do it but it'd be a piece of cake for a tech. I would personally not suggest any cleaners like Sea Foam or CRC at this point...you have 80k miles...if there is carbon there, those cleaners aren't goi to do squat at this point. I'd definitely say a manual cleaning is your best option (if actually needed). I've also read there is a butterfly valve in the intake manifold that can get carboned up and hinder performance (these valves direct different patterns of air turbalance depending on low speed/high speed situations).

My lifetime average in my 2018 5.3 is 24.2 - now it'd be better if I didn't have to drive 5 months out of the year in temps under 40 degrees....once it gets over 40 degrees my mileage improves dramatically. Winter I average 23, summer I average 25.6 I think tires/rim combination makes a big difference. I have the 17's with the Bridgestones that came with the truck, I'm not thrilled with the way they look but they do seem to help in the fuel economy department. I can easliy get this truck into V4 mode by simply getting it up to speed and backing off if the throttle a little bit. Boom, it goes right into V4 and will stay there until I need to accelerate or go up a hill...then I go back into V4. Highway I just set the Cruz at 68 and keep it there unless I need to pass someone or step on the brake (it generally stays in V4 probably 60 percent of the time). I found that intitially I was kind of able to "train myself" by leaving the fuel mileage screen up on the dash to kind of gauge how I was driving and what I was able to accomplish. I'm almost averaging better fuel economy in my V8 4WD truck than my wife is in her 4cyl Honda CRV (pretty damn close).

Yelp...there won't be any results to my study, tried to fish my Autel camera into that intake...impossible to get it in there deep enough to get a look at those valves. Only way that's happening is to remove the intake, which I'm not ready to do. I'll be living in mystery until that intake comes off. Lol.

No I did read it all, and I understood it. You haven't had problems up until the 150,000-180,000 you owned your trucks. Your money is/was spent on mods (I'm assuming instead of paint protection or catch cans). And despite that you had no problems up until the 150,000 miles when you traded them in. So you're trying to make the point that you can own a vehicle till 150,000 without worry, and even beat on it. I would say that's correct. I would say most vehicles should make it to 130,000-150,000 without major repair, without much effort. I would also say that with longer driving commutes to work, there are plenty of people looking to get more than 150,000 miles out of their vehicles. I really don't see how a $29 dollar catch can is hurting anything in the grand scheme of things. Maybe it's keeping the valves a little cleaner? That's not a bad thing or waste of time. It's certainly not a waste of money. It's an easy install. It's no big deal by any stretch of the imagination. I mean I'd consider it to the level of buying, opening and installing an air freshener. It's that simple...two hoses and a clamp. The thing that bugs me is the whole...my catch can is better than yours. My catch can is special. If you don't use my catch cans, you'll go straight to hell. How could you not use our catch cans? Don't you want the best catch cans? I caught a unicorn once in my catch can - and it was happy I did - then I just let it go in some majestic Forrest right down the street. I can still here it galloping if I listen closely. Isn't that the catch can you want? That's the stuff I can't stand.

Yeah I just think you said it yourself...you don't know or care what a vehicle does after 150,000 miles, and that's certainly fine. For the people that keep them long term, or drove a ton of miles, life after 150,000 miles is a very real environment we live in.

Probably just more conversational than anything else (I like talking car maintenance). Yeah I'm really hoping I can get some pictures of those valves, and if they don't look "good", I'll probably scrap the catch can (as it can be a little bit of a pain to empty every 3-4 weeks). Well I shouldn't say it's a pain, but if it's not helping I'm not going to bother. But just a recap of my maintenance history with this vehicle...owned since new, oil changes every 5,000 miles...diff fluid changed at 25,000 miles, transmission fluid changed at 25,000 miles. Mostly highway commuting. The truck has a pretty easy life, but it is driven a ton. I love the stories of the older engines making it to such high mileage, definitely something I'm not used to seeing. In my opinion those days, that technology wasn't known for that in general. Exceptions? Yes, certainly your family figured it out with their methods. But I find the port injection engines have been...well it's been a pretty good run in terms of longevity. They did go through their hiccups but up until direct injection hit the scene (and cafe regulations), it was pretty common to see a lot of those engines lasting to 250,000 miles without major problems (even without great maintenance history). I think there's been an adjustment period with direct injection...a cutting of the teeth, so to speak. As for the cars ive seen come into the shop, I'll tell you there's just some designs...some brands where it doesn't matter what you do, they were just poorly designed and there was no saving them. Whether it was cooling system design, or lubrication system design...some engines (not many) are just poorly designed. They're mistakes and they're talked about in the industry forever. It's stuff you just see over and over...whether it was Toyota's 3.0 sludge monster...or GM's intake gasket failures on 3.4's. Nothing was going to stop it from happening. The Silverados I think are pretty solid, I do see the oil usuage on them though...like I said it's been on every one of them we service. But like I also said, that's pretty "normal" on direct injection cars in general right now. I have seen a few of the 2012's with the oil fouled spark plugs. I also see a lot of the 2014's and up, being stuck in 4wd (it's best to shift it back into 2wd overnight if it gets bellow freezing). But other than that everyone seems to be happy with them. I love mine, I'm hoping with great maintenance I can take this thing to 300,000 without major repairs.

I just think it's strange that you compare today's engines with engine technology from two generations ago. I know I don't want to go back to carbureted engines. I don't want an engine like that, where they were so filthy inside that the driveability and lifespan was reduced. Carbon on valves can effect a few things, power, efficiency, and engine knock. It also can break off and enter the cylinder, scouring the walls. It even can cause the valve to not seat poroperly and cause compression loss and misfires. I mean, it's not exactly an ideal situation. And for the people saying...oh it's fine, it's nothing, it's no big deal. Well some of us do notice these things, we don't just Gas and go everyday. We care a little bit...we want the thing to run optimally for 300,000 miles without major repair. I know you're one of those people. Keep in mind your V6 is different than the V8...maybe not much different in mechanical design but it does not go into V4 mode nearly as much. And for whatever reason - whether it's the V4 mode, engine vacuum from more cylinders, tuning, whatever - the V8 uses more oil, and feels different than the V6. The V6 doesn't switch as much, doesn't get that low speed preignition fish biting feeling, and it doesn't shift gears nearly as much. It drives and feels totally different. I love the V8, I am averaging 26 mpg again now that the welter has warmed up, but the thing uses oil. It has from day one. I have talked to GM techs, I run a facility in which I see several of these things everyday (the V8's use oil). And it goes right into that intake and it coats right onto the back of those valves. Every single damn one of them that come in, I check it, they all use oil. I'm sure some will chime in...mine doesn't use oil...well I'm happy for you, I've just never seen it. As far as catch cans go, hey I don't know if they're the "answer". I think someone posted above that it did help, it's a bandaid...it's a slowing down the effects, type of thing. I did install one - a cheap one - but it seems to "catch" quite a bit. I know the cheap cans are thoroughly roasted by the catch can "experts", but I did my research. Again, I'm not a catch can junky, I could care less. And I don't believe cleaners and fuel injector cleaner this, cleaner that...seafoam...CRC, magic unicorn tears, is going to do much of anything. But it doesn't cost me much to try, and it doesn't take me long to empty a can every few weeks and run a "cleaner" through every oil change. Just my 2 cents. I'll be changing my oil next week, I'll try to remember to take a picture with a boroscope. Not sure if one can get in there and really get into those ports but I'll try (I've been meaning to take a look). 30,000 miles, 5.3, 2018...catch can since 10,000 miles, bought the truck new last year.

Those valves don't look reassuring to me. And 130,000 miles? I mean, I thought 130,000 miles wasn't supposed to be high mileage anymore? Those valves look like something I'd expect to see from a carbureted motor at 130,000 miles, from someone who never changed the oil and beat the tar out of it.

I'm not surprised they're not providing a recall, even with a safety function like the brakes. Extended warranties seems to be the way manufacturers go if they can get away with it. I owned a Lexus LS460, their brake actuators would fail. Lexus would not recall them despite it bei a common and dangerous issue. Instead they extended the warranties on them for a few years and a certain mileage threshold. Once you were out of that you were on the hook for the repair yourself. It was a $3,500 dollar repair. Mine was starting to go - out of extended warranty of course - I traded it in and got rid of the headache. Spending $3,500 for a part that isn't a major component like a transmission or engine is too rich for my blood.

Sorry to hear about your loss...four in ten days? Wow that’s terrible.

Nice thread, read most of it on flight to (and from) Vegas...14 hours...picking away at it little by little here and there. Kept the incredibly long flight a little more interesting. I like the passion of trying to achieve a level of vehicle reliability and longevity through maintenance and ppersonal preferred methods, I don't agree with all of it but I appreciate and admire it. The latest post - getting a vehicle to last and perhaps saving money by not having to purchase the "next" vehicle within third or even fourth cycle - is something I've done before and it requires maintenance and good driving habits (all of which are obviously on display here). You really do save a small fortune keeping a vehicle super long term, and maintaining it so it can get to that 250,000-350,000 mark. Along the way you will have to make a rather large investment into maintenance, the key is deciding what is that "point" and where is that "line" to maintain a vehicle for longevity and enjoyment (excellent condition). I probably differ a great deal in that regard to the OP, but I agree to attempt it is fun in some sort of weird way, and an excellent way to save maybe $50k-$70k longterm with today's vehicle costs. So keep up the good work, Grumpy, inspirational thread! Truly a one of a kind trip into vehicle maintenance, modification and data. I will check in fequently. Personally I have taken a vehicle to 287,000 miles before selling it...probably saving myself $50,000 in the process. That allowed me to pay off my house sooner, save for another vehicle etc. I think a real key is selecting the "right" vehicle for the job. And that's tough because you can't go on vehicle reputation always for that task...vehicles can be cyclical in their reputation for reliability...a few years of greatness and then the manufacturer changes the fuel delivery system or transmission specs and manufacturer. It's tough. Hopefully I can get my 2018 Silverado to 300,000 and beyond, not sure yet, there are some things I'm leery of, but that might make it even more of a challenge and interesting.

We just got a good rainfall the other day, it was badly needed to remove some of the salt residue on the roads. It looks like winter is almost over where I am, although you never know...last April 15th we got a few inches, and of course the road brime and salt stayed around until May. I really am kind of on a quest to keep this truck "rust free", or close to it. How long I'll be on this kick I don't know. Lol. But right now I'm still hot on it. I'm actually excited to get under it and clean up some spots and apply another coat of protection. I think I'm getting really weird. I go through these fazes.

Understood. I try to save as much as I can, or spend with cost effectiveness in mind. I think it cost my buddy and I $150 for a five gallon container of fluid film, but I have a compressor and spray gun...should last me ten years (I’m not kidding). So I’m into it for $75...we’re four treatments into this container and it doesn’t look like we’ve even put a dent into it, but yeah if I had to pay $120 bucks a wack, I wouldn’t do it either.

Honestly you might want to Krown it twice a year. I fluid film my truck twice a year - and even that's not good enough - these "wet" rust applications do wash off....fluid film probably easier than the Krown. There's another product out there...can't remember the name of it...starts with a C and they use to preserve weapons (and people use it on frames, it's much more durable while also staying wet). I just am finishing up with four months of salt on my 2018 myself....FF treatments and I only have rust in the spot where the lift arm goes under the frame (left front side). Other than that it looks pretty damn good....and I'm talking a LOT OF SALT. Every single day, just bathes in that stuff...I can't avoid it. Living in New England has to be one of the worst places on earth for rust. Well except for Canada, you guys invented salt brime. lol

20,000-30,000 a year is nothing? Lol, it’s twice as much as the average driver does. Im always amazed at the guys who put 50,000-60,000 a year on their cars/trucks. Those are the stories I enjoying reading about the most. Definitely not enough of them, probably because they’re work trucks and people who use them for work/construction don’t really have an interest or connection to the vehicle outside of work/business. I guess? I don’t know.

I'm about a month away from my "one year of ownership, point", and I currently have 26,000 miles on my 2018. I expect to end the year at 28,000. I actually started driving the wife's car on the weekends because I was on pace for 36,000 miles and I thought...do I really want to be out of my bumper to bumper warranty before the year is even out? I like the truck, I haven't had any real issues with it, I've managed to average 24.1 mpg during that time...although cold weather driving over the last four months has really chipped away at that (before the winter my average was 25.9, I'm serious). Now on a typical week I end up averaging 22. The only real thing I can complain about is the transmission...the way it seems to shift from one gear to the next...up, then down, up then down...as the V8 switches to V4. It doesn't "bother me", but I worry about damage to the transmission, the constant engagement of one gear to the next...doesn't seem like that's a good thing. At times it feel harsh, at times it doesn't. Like sometimes you can feel it kind of go into that gear, at times it's less noticeable. Sometimes you can hear a clunk, sometimes you can't. Once I'm on the highway really moving it's fine, but those back roads going 40 with someone slow in front of you? The thing gets very antsy and doesn't seem to know what to do. But great truck so far...looks good....good power....great gas mileage. Haven't had one leak or had one trip to the dealer. Installed a catch can, I've undercoated the thing twice already...going to do it a third time after the winter. Very quiet and comfortable ride. Thing drives straight down the road despite hitting several pot holes this winter.

I'm now 21,000 miles into this thing (2018 LT 5.3) and my lifetime average is 24.5. The winter has dragged it down some - in the warm weather I generally average 25-26 mpg during my weekly 600 mile commute (mix highway/back roads). My lifetime average before winter hit was 25.1 at that time. I'm now averaging 23.5 a week doing the same commute, but in temperatures in the 20's. Knock on wood, the truck has been great in so many ways. Very versatile machine. No problems yet.

I feel the same way, the V4 is great for me in a lot of instances and gets me great gas mileage, but there are times I'm noticing where I wish I could shut it off. Like if I'm stuck behind someone driving slow...the thing bogs down and constantly switches in and out of V4, seemingly not knowing what to do. But those are rare occasions and the person really has to be driving slow, otherwise I love the V4. If I towed or plowed, I'd definitely want the V8 on all the time.

Something else to consider that I never even thought of until now, this fish bite sensation when the engine is cold may not necessarily be the transmission. It could be the engine. Direct injection engines suffer from preignition and engine knock when it's cold. The knock sensors could be peeling back on the timing, causing the jerky, sort of fish biting sensation. Then it warms up and goes away. But like ive said before, I've been experiencing this since my truck was new back in April (2018 Silverado 5.3). I now have 16,000 miles...no change for better or worse. The thing is driving excellent aside from this cold start issue.