Doublebase

Fuel injection used to be great - and it still is - it just changed dramatically the last five years with direct injection. Now we're blasting fuel right on top of the piston at 600-2000 psi. That stuff is getting into the oil. Carburetor cold starts? Picture an injector running rich right on top of a cold piston and rings that haven't expanded yet.

The timing chains on those Caddys were a real problem, me brother in law was the service manager at a caddy dealer...used to tell me about the timing chains. He told me the only ones that didn't go bad were the caddys from the rental car place down the street. He said they never used the oil life monitor or synthetic, just conventional and 5,000 mile oil changes. Not a single issue. Meanwhile the shop was filled with stretched chains for the customers that used the monitor, went 7,000 plus and used synthetics. I personally don't change my oil at 3,000 miles, I've graduated to the "new school" thought of going 5,000 miles using synthetic. I initially wasn't a fan of the 0w20 oils - I'm still not - but oil viscosity and volatility worries me with the AFM and direct injection systems in this truck. I'm not going to experiment with it just yet (but that may change when the mileage gets high). As for coolant, I generally use OE. I used to hate Dexcool, but I haven't seen an issue with it in a long long time. I've never heard of the coolant you mention, I'll have to look it up. I have seen some interesting coolant...Evans lifetime coolant seems interesting. Ford uses an additive pack with their coolant that needs replenishing with their diesels. Speaking of Ford, they must have 5 different coolants with their cars right now, can't keep up. Hybrid organic acid, organic acid, something else. On and on. I'm a firm believer in distilled water now (if it's not premixed). Honda received the "best coolant award", by some yahoo on YouTube. All I know is I won't be waiting till 100,000 miles to do a coolant service on my truck (I'll live on the wild side and change it at 70,000). Have you ever relined the cylinders in your service truck? 856,000 miles is a lot of service. That's quite a success story. That thing is saving you a fortune.

I understand you don't think techs know what they're talking about regarding fluids, because in all honesty, it's the last thing they care about regarding vehicle repair. Many techs are far past the faze of changing oil, that's for kids coming out of tech school. Instead they're fixing the problems that arise when people neglect changing their oil; they're replacing the timing chains that have stretched, the EGR valves that are clogged (because the oil is being sent down the exhaust), the lifters, the rings, the check engine lights from misfires. When you start taking these things apart, and you see the carbon buildup, the worn components, the sludge (and you know that customer doesn't change their oil because you check the service history), you kind of get biased against some of the things you read on bobs the oil guy, or some of these used oil analysis. I did NOT see these engine problems ten years ago that I am seeing now. Ten years ago everything was port fuel injected and timing belt. Now it's direct injected, timing chain and turbo. The rings got "less friction" to meet the cafe regulations that required these manufacturers to produce fuel efficient vehicles. Then one day we went from putting 5w30 in cars, to 0w20. Just like that. You mention your fleet vehicles, as you know the Detroit 60 12.7 takes 40 quarts of oil. Totally different ballgame. The rpm's probably don't reach 1,300 on the highway. It might even have two oil filters and uses heavy weight synthetic oil. It's made to go a long time without coming in for service (because to take it out of service loses people money). A GM truck takes 8 quarts, and uses a cheap E core filter. The block is aluminum. The valve train uses the oil to uncollapse lifters. It's being asked to flow freely through some pretty tight clearances, quickly. Then it's asked to seal rings that are no longer held against the walls with the same tension as engines 10-15 years ago. An injector is spraying directly in a cylinder at a bare minimum of 600psi, with a maximum of 2000. An engine ten years ago was operating with 50 psi, sprayed outside the cylinder. Now the oil gets a bath in fuel, regularly. It's an issue. No filter stops that. No additive can control it. You take a thin 0w20 oil and make it thinner with fuel. Then the fuel burns off and people send it to Blackstone. Yeah looks great! Go another 2,000 miles next time! I'm not saying to change your oil at 3,000 miles, or 10,000 miles, or 20,000 miles. I'm just saying that there's a reason why GM lowered the mileage on their oil life monitors, why BMW lowered theirs. Why we are seeing more engine failures, ring replacement, valve train issues since the early 80's. It's because technology shifted towards the NUMBER ONE GOAL of fuel economy. Longevity and reliability has temporarily taken a back seat.

Good point, take BMW for instance....someone just mentioned the 15,000 mile BMW oil changes (because it's part of their "free" service). Well I know two BMW service reps, BMW tells them the life expency of their cars is now 100,000 miles. After that? BMW considers them done. They don't care, it's over. They realize their customer base sells them way before that and buys a new one...they don't care about the used car market. BMW engines are failing at a rapid rate. BMW lowered the mileage of their oil change interval simply because the cost to replace engines outweighed the free maintenance they were giving away.

Wait a second...you put 90,000 miles on your truck in a year and four months?? Holy crap! The most I've ever personally seen someone drive is 50,000 a year, and I thought that was nuts. You've got him beat. What are you doing to put that many miles on your truck? And if youre dead set on going 15,000 miles on your oil changes, I'd definitely consider using the Amsoil. And I'd be changing that filter out at 7,000 miles. You should start a thread on your truck - you drive the most of anyone on here - I know I would be interested in hearing how your truck holds up long term - I'm sure others would too. Start a thread, take some pictures...update it once in a while. Tell us how it's doing, etc. Saw a guy do that once on a Lexus forum that drove a lot (not as much as you), it was easily the best thread on that site.

If I remember you're a tech, right? I think you mentioned that before. I'll tell you what I've noticed; every Tech I know changes their oil out at 3,000 miles. EVERY SINGLE ONE. I'm not in the field anymore, I teach automotive, so it's not like I'm talking to 100 different techs a day, but the 20 or so I know personally change their oil at 3,000 miles using synthetic. I was the only one that believed in extended changes, they all thought I was nuts. And what happens?? The rings on my Lexus wore out. So me, this oil nut...this forum reading, telling these guys they're wasting their money dumping synthetic oil at 3,000 miles...ends up wearing out his engine at 160,000 miles. Was it because I was going 7,000-9,000 on oil changes? I don't know, but it sure looks like it. I never beat on the car, it was all highway mileage, I took great care of it, always garaged...but I bought into believing it was a waste to change your oil at 3,000 miles. Honestly I still think 3,000 is too soon...that I can go 5,000, but anything above that gives me the creeps now.

I probably should have made it clear, I don't drive in the left lane cruising at 68 mph. I used to be a regular in the left lane when I drove a car that got 30 mpg highway no matter how I drove, now I'm only in it whenever I have to pass the guy in front of me. But I do find it safer/less hectic over in that left lane, compared to the "slow" lane or middle of the highway. The speed limit on most Massachusetts highways is 65, you'll get run off the road if you drive 65 in Massachusetts. The bare minimum in the fast/passing lane is 75 (even that's not enough).

Excellent post. Do you use your truck for work or is it a commuter? How many miles a week are you driving? I'm averaging around 26 mpg...sometimes 25.5 depending on traffic. I realize the truck's computer isn't accurate but it's what I go by. I set my driving screen to the fuel economy setting, it helps me understand when and how much I can let off the gas pedal and get into V4 mode. And when I can't. I've pretty much got it down to a science now. I'm finding I'm usually averaging 30 plus mpg unless I'm stuck in traffic or going up a hill. I cant beat the cruise control on this truck so I pretty much use it all of the time in the highway - I set it at 67/68 - something where I can kind of "fit in" with the flow of the slower traffic, without causing problems. What I've found is that it's much more risky driving in the slower lanes than the high speed lane. The slower lane has the incoming traffic, which is a pain. And if you go over a lane it's even worse because you're sandwhiched in between two lanes. In the fast lane there's no one to your left and you have less traffic entering from your right (but it's something I've adjusted to). I take full full advantage of this truck's ability to GLIDE. Man can it glide. Going down a hill? This thing builds up so much speed it's ridiculous...never have to touch the gas pedal. And then it glides half way up the other side (and with light throttle you're there). I haven't tried redline products, I'm a bit cheap when it comes to oil. I'll use a full synthetic 0w20 but I change it at 5,000 miles (I don't do extended oil changes). I mean I'll buy whatever's brand name is on sale at Walmart (Mobil, Quaker State, Castrol, pennzoil). I realize they're all group lll synthetics but I've read that with 0w20 oil the manufacturers have to use some group llll just to get it within viscosity specifications. You ever hear of that? I've always read, if you have to chose between 5w20 and 0w20, always pick the 0w20, it's a higher quality oil. My truck only has 7,500 miles on it (it's only two and a half months old), so I haven't tinkered with anything yet. I'm a huge huge maintenance guy though. I'll probably do a drain and fill on the tranny at 20,000. I'll do the transfer case and diffs at 30,000. I'll probably do the coolant at 70,000. I may do brake fluid flushes every couple of years. Thinking about installing a catch can. I have a bed cover I'm putting on next week. I've already done one Fluid Film treatment underneath, I'll be doing another one in November. People say the fluid film destroys the wax on the frame but I've seen zero issues with it (know lots of guys who've had their GM trucks treated). Winters kill trucks around here, it's a serious problem. GM wax starts to flake off after a year (or less), then it just spreads like wildfire. I'm going to try to stay on top of it (we'll see how that goes). If I can slow it down by 50% I'll be pretty happy I guess. I'll be putting 30,000 plus a year on the truck, so it needs to hold up and get me decent fuel mileage. So far it's exceeded my expectations.

Ok. Yeah a front camera would be great. Don’t think I have the option of upgrading it (2018 LT).

I haven't noticed poor quality, and my last vehicle was a Lexus LS460. What's the issue? Not clear? I've driven a lot of new vehicles ranging from Nissan to Hyundai. I don't notice much of a difference between any of them. I will say Nissan gives you several camera angles, which is kind of nice (if you don't consider it distracting). Honda gives you rear and side angles now.

Well I'd say definitely shouldn't have called it a blazer, but think about it...the smaller blazer isn't exactly iconic. So maybe it's no big deal that this thing is called a blazer, unless we're talking about the bigger blazer from the early 80''s, then that's a problem. I actually like it. It looks better than the Ford Escape or Explorer. The interior looks like a Toyota RAV4 (which is a good thing believe it or not). The nose and grill looks aggressive yet not too aggressive (like Honda seems to have fallen in love with). I'm actually shocked at some of these recent vehicles Chevy has put out lately, they look modern, good, have some identity to them (rather than the retreaded bland trash they were putting out ten years ago...remember that Impala and Malibu? Remember the early Equinox? My lord!).

So you're doing simple drain and fills every 22,000 or so for the tranny? Don't think you're going to hurt anything by dong that. Actually I think that's some pretty damn good preventive maintenance, you're essentially removing a portion of the fluid, keeping it replenished and clean, while not doing a complete flush. I've used this technique for many many years with great results. And many others do too. I forget if you mentioned how many miles are on your truck or if you have dropped the pan and changed the filter - depending on the mileage it might be a good idea to get that filter changed out at some point - then continue on with your drain and fills. Just my opinion.

I’ve read it is a decent oil for your typical 5,000 mile oil changes.

I did early on, they came back fine...the usual...you have plenty of active additives left, and wear metals are within specifications...try going another 1,000 miles and check back. Fuel dilution was something i considered. I think direct injection plays a big roll with that in today's engines, that and carbon. It's just a lot of fuel pressure spraying directly down on those pistons and walls. And you throw in the low tension (gas mileage approved) rings and I just don't know?? I have been to classes and lately the "buzz" is watch out for those direct injection engines...those timing chains and that oil consumption. The oil is under a lot of demand and it's getting dirty. You're an Amsoil dealer, you must do extended drains, right? No issues on your truck or anything? You've been hearing good things about extended drains with DI engines? Just curious, I figure Amsoil must have addressed it with their dealers.

It was using a quart every 700-1000 miles. My oil change intervals were 7,000-10,000 miles. I was using TGMO 0w20 and I also used Mobil 1 full synthetic. I was using the factory filters. Excessive blowby was causing oil to enter the intake manifold (a lot of oil). I'd open up the throttle plate and take a look in there and there'd be a puddle of oil just sitting in there. The electrodes in the plugs were badly oil fouled too. Changed to a heavier weight, it didn't help. Compression test was below specs, tried a wet compression test and it went up. Bad rings. Were extended oil changes to blame? I don't know. I believe they sure didn't help.

What's 50% for you on the oil life monitor? I'm at 78% right now and I have 2,000 miles on the oil. So I think it depends on how many miles you're at, at that point. Is it 5,000? 4,000? 3,000? More? Less? I personally no longer let direct injection engines go further than 5,000 miles on oil changes. I'm done playing that game. My last direct injection engine was worn out at 160,000 miles, I don't think extended drains didn't it any favors despite using "high quality" oil and filters. There's a couple things with modern day engines that I believe are "tough" on oil nowadays. Direct injection, low tension piston rings, CAFE regulations, light weight oil and the return of timing chain engines...throw in the addition of turbocharging. Direct injection blasts carbon into the oil. The rings aren't sealing like they used to. Chains are shearing oil, and the carbon is also getting between the pins and rollars, stretching them. I'm just done testing the limits of oil. I'm done with used oil analysis. I'm doing 5,000 mile oil changes and that's it. Call me crazy.

My truck is an 2018, I bought it new two months ago. I hope it's updated. Who knows? It was more of a problem with the route it chose to take me, and the adjustments it made along the way. It took a two and a half hour trip and turned it into four. I usually use Waze, I don't question it because it usually saves me from some tough spots. I figured I could trust the GPS with the truck because it is so new, but this is what it did...first it took me right past the highway I would have thought we'd take. Then it took me right into RT93 into Boston (that's a nightmare). To make matters worse it took me OFF of 93 and had me go right through Boston - if you've ever driven through Boston you know one thing immediately after - you don't EVER drive through Boston. Especially during a Friday. So there I was...Government Center, then Boston common, then the theater district, then DORCHESTER. Then it tells me, redirecting your route...right BACK onto 93!! I was in trafffic for an hour and a half and I moved maybe ten miles before getting right back the way I was heading. It was like someone said, here let me dump you right into the center of hell on the way to where you're going. I just couldn't believe what had happened. If I had a holesaw with me I would have drilled the GPS right out of my dash and thrown it out the window. Thank god I didn't have one.

My buddy gets 16 in his and I’m like, what are you doing? Meanwhile he’s got it outside running while he’s inside talking to me, and he’s asking why he isn’t getting better mileage. He’s got the AC running from May till November. To each his own, he doesn’t drivee that much anyway, whereas I’m driving 600-700 miles a week. But I still enjoy it even though I’m not hammering on it.

All I can say is based off the mileage most people on this thread are getting, they are having a lot more fun with the gas pedal than me. Today was the first day I didn't get around my average (26mpg). But today I had to beat the ever living crap out of the thing. Long trip from NH to Rhode Island...had the AC on the whole way, damn GPS took my through Boston, then Dorchester, then Matapan. Pure hell. Foot was in it the whole time jockeying for position. And when it wasn't I was stuck in miles and miles of traffic. Averaged 18.9 over the 130 mile trip. That was maybe the worst commute I've had in my entire life (worse than any trip through NY). One thing I know for certain, the worst part of this truck is the GPS. I'll never use that thing again. Ever. Thing took me right off the highway for a little two hour detour through the heart of Boston and beyond...only to put me back on the very same highway it took me off of.

I definitely experience this "fish bite" thing whenever the vehicles sits overnight until it warms up. Then it's gone. And like everyone else I experience it during light throttle, it goes away if I give it some gas. I takes about two minutes for this to go away, then it's warmed up and it's fine. I'm not worried about it, but maybe I should? I've found that a lot of these newer vehicles with 6-8 speed transmissions are a bit confused at times. Now if my transmission starts slipping??? It's headed right to the dealer, but this thing has been happening since I bought it new two months ago...I now have 7,000 miles on the thing already and I love it.The thing drives like a dream.

To be honest I think the wax coating “falling off”, part of the equation is pretty much impossible to avoid anyway. When it gets old it dries up and falls off. When something scrapes it? It’s exposed. The fluid film, krown, NH oil...all may “soften” it, but unless you soak the heck out of it, I’ve found they don’t make it fall off. If anything they provide a little barrier and suppleness. And then dust sticks to it forming an additional barrier of protection.

I was told that, but I haven't found that to be true. And I've seen fluid film treatments on Silverados in my area - including mine - and it didn't damage the wax. From what I've seen it sticks right to it forming another layer/barrier.

I think the problem is that the stuff just comes off too easily and then the rust gets in and spreads underneath it. I have a 2018 and the thing showed some surface rust as soon as I brought it home...on the bed tubes, on top of the front spring mounts, at four spots where a tech put the thing up in the air on a lift, at various crevices. I patched some of the bare spots with a rubberized undercoating, on others I used fluid film, and on some others I stripped the coating off, sanded it down and painted it with POR. I feel like it's something that unfortunately I have to keep up with weekly or else it'll get out of control (and it's not even winter yet, this is our dry season). I'm planning on doing two things...I plan on buying some Nox Rust for touch ups, and I plan on doing an undercoating treatment twice a year with either fluid film or NH Oil undercoating. I know its just "surface rust", it's not the end of the world...might not ever be a serious issue, but I don't want to chance it. I've seen three 2014's that have frames that look so corroded you'd think they were 20 year old trucks (one of them doesn't appear to have any wax coating left on the thing).

I'm at 5,000 miles now, I'm driving this thing like crazy. Can't seem to keep it under 600 mikes a week. Averaging 25 mpg since I bought it! Amazing. Not one single issue. Changed the oil at 1,300 miles, put on running boards, mud flaps, a bed liner and cover. Loving the thing I think what is happening - reputation wise - is there are just SO MANY of these things on the road...there will be some with issues. It's a volume thing. They sold almost 600,000 of these trucks last year (not including the Sierra). So since 2014 there's almost 2.4 million of these things on the road in America alone! That's insane. Throw in another 1 million Sierra's. That's a lot of potential issues. That's a lot of different types of owners/drivers. I mean on my daily commute I'll see 50 of these trucks pass me by...some towing trailers going 80 on the highway...lots with the beds loaded up just blasting down the road. That's a lot of different levels of abuse, lots of different types of use. I think aside from the Tundra, which I hear is an extremely well built truck, the Silverado is holding up very well. The F-150's have had lots of problems. Dodge has improved. And who cares about Nissan?

It's probably the seams on the radiator slowly weeping away. Unfortunately it's pretty common on a lot of brands right now....where the plastic side tanks meet the aluminum fins.