00pooterSS

Any updates? I'm looking at doing this converter too.

No problem glad it helped you. My seats and console lid are still quiet and doing well. My driver seat now has a clunk in the track but that appears to be something is just worn out because the seat actually moves 1/8 inch or so then clunks so something is wearing in the track. Other than that the stuff I posted in the videos is working out With one exception. I ended up pulling my rear seats out and putting bearing grease on the plastic pieces that the rear seat metal brackets go through, for the upper part of the rear seat. After spraying lube back there the noise came back after a couple months. I think it's been a year or so squeak free with the bearing grease.

I've read/heard a couple of things about people saying they had trouble with aftermarket converters but when I ask them what they didn't like, what brand, what problems.....I get ghosted. I have been considering doing a 3000-3200 stall anyway but now it looks like I'll have to replace it if changing the fluid doesn't help stop the shudder. (I've had this work many times in the past so it's where I will start) I've had stalls in the past, I'm just really needing any helpful info on what people have tried and what they did and did not like stalling one of these trucks with the 6L80 Thank you all in advance for any help.

Easy fix, lube the slip yoke on the front of the driveshaft where it goes into the transmission. Pull drive shaft and wipe bearing grease inside the yoke where the splines are (don't put grease on the outside of the yoke just inside on the splines) and put it back in and see if it stops. I've had to do this 1-2 times a year on trucks for the last 20 years and is the only thing I've ever heard someone say "it feels like I got bumped/lightly rear ended".

It's for cutting out and throwing in the trash along with the stock muffler. Both of them are really restrictive. I put a magnaflow straight through muffler on my truck and took that valve out and gained fuel mileage and power. I have a completely different exhaust setup now but back when I did the mod my truck picked up 3 mph at my test spot and a couple of mpg. I had already disabled the DOD/AFM on my truck though.

My current truck has drove me insane with noises. I could be here all day talking about it. I had this rattle we are talking about, a ton of noise from the driver seat, the rear seats were insane (squeaky creaky moany crap) and my center console lid. I have gotten all of those sounds sorted out and it's dead ass quiet now. Took quite a bit of jacking with to get it all figured out and I have several videos on youtube about it all. I need to do a update video on the center console lid because my original fix didn't actually work and I ended up finding a solution that was $3 and 10 seconds of time to fix. Keep at it man, you'll get there. Don't know what to suggest on the door since I haven't experienced that. I have had many cars squeak and creak from the door latches, and hatch back latches, a little bit of grease usually solves it, I've also wrapped them in tape to stop it.

This isn't one of those situations man. I know what you mean but this is just a piss poor design that needs help. I've been a tech for over 20 years, been master certified for many of those. Just putting that out there so that you know I know what I'm looking at here. That sensor is a steering angle sensor and it needs to be stable to report the most accurate reading it can. I have to change these sensors on various vehicles and they are always very firmly mounted. I have no idea how GM let these trucks out the door with such a sloppy fit. And to answer your question man, no I haven't had any issues what so ever. It's still perfect and perfectly quiet.

I already have shock extenders on my truck since I had shackles on it with the lift blocks removed. Wondering if I should keep them on or take them off. I'm doing a maxtrac flip kit and gonna run it at 5" or 6" drop, haven't fully decided. Looking at the angles of the shocks and knowing that the more the shock is laid over the less effective it is, I would think it would be best for me to keep them. Has anyone tried running them versus not running them and noticed the difference? If so which setup did you like best?

No problem, glad to help

When I got my truck I noticed it always made a clicking sound from in the truck when turning the steering wheel and it would make the same sound when hitting bumps in the road. I did this little cardboard mod many months ago and it's been perfectly quiet ever since. I forgot all about it till today figured I would share. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa-Hzdo6hMU

If I had any idea of what they were worth I may offer to sell mine. I'm digging that all terrain grill I posted

Just found this, grill looks good like that, yours will be better with the painted bumpers though. I think if I do a grill I'll do this

Gotcha. BTW I gained the 3 mph and mpg vs having the flapper wedged open with the stock muffler, and then went to the magnaflow and cut out the flapper. That sucks about the v4 helicopter sound, but if you have it wedged open and are fine with it then sounds like you'd be okay getting rid of it. Maybe take the flapper home and keep it in case you want it put back in. I just personally hate the idea of having the flapper after taking a good look at it after it was cut off. Even wedged open it takes up a considerable amount of space in the pipe. Your truck your thing, just tossing out my experience with removing it and looking at it in my hand and thinking holy crap, even open, that's a big restriction. (keep in mind the restriction to flow wont just be from the physical size of the flapper, but also restriction of air trying to get around it and the disturbance in flow, add the physical size and the flow restriction together, makes for quite a bit of a restriction)

I have a little test spot where I test mods. When I replaced my muffler with a magnaflow and removed the cutout at the same time I gained 3 mph and after that I saw an increase of a couple of mpg too. I gotta ask, why would you choose to keep the flapper, it's a pretty big restriction and makes adding in a free flowing muffler pointless.

Dammit I went back a few pages and saw there is a bulletin on fixing this and it's similar to what I did. It does include bracing the white plastic pieces I modified by wrapping them in tape. Well if yall feel like trying my method it's working great. A mixture of all methods is probably best.. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10072596-0335.pdf

Edit: I just read a little bit on the washer method for the bolt that "doesn't tighten all the way". I'm a tech and there are a lot of bolts like that on pivoting pieces. If you smash everything together it wont allow the pieces to pivot and rotate. My fix removed all movement and noises and does not restrict movement or put extra strain on that motor.

I came here to post that I fixed my seats and posted a thread about it in this same forum. I noticed above something about hose clamps and washers etc so someone else may have already came up with a fix but I took my seat apart found the issue and my seats are perfect now. All I needed was a few tools and some tape. The problem appears to be looseness in the plastic pieces on the front side of the seat cushion. I fixed mine. Will see how long it lasts but for right now they are 100% perfect PLEASE if you have comments or updates on my method post them in my thread so I can keep up with it, I'd like to know y'alls experience using my method. here is the thread

The flapper is in the stock exhaust and in the borla GM catback. I don't think it is in any other catbacks but I really only know about the OEM setup. I don't know about all the aftermarket setups

I can't be sure on that myself. I never looked. I just wanted it gone, see no good reason to have it.

Also, you probably wont get a lot of power numbers here since the driveshafts pop on the dyno. But I've heard approx 25 from headers, and approx 25 from doing a cutout ( I assume a really good catback will be near the cutout numbers). Talked with a tuner from Dubai about it and he said that you may see up to 50 hp. Sounds crazy, but if you read through this thread about how much back pressure that damn flapper creates it's not too hard to see.

All I can tell you is mine hauls a lot more ass and gets a lot more MPG than when the exhaust was stock. I have a test spot that's about 1000 ft from a stop sign to a merge sign . When I cut out the flapper and swapped the stock muffler for a magnaflow I picked up a couple of mph and MPG, truck was already tuned but it was not retuned for cutting out the flap and new muffler. When I went headers and the stock 6.2 catback with the flap cutout and tuned, I picked up another 3 MPH over the previous setup. Which is a total of around 5 MPH from stock exhaust. I do get near 5 more MPG total than when my truck was untuned and had the K&N on it, it was bone stock except for the K&N. On my work commute stock with the K&N I got 14-15 MPG on gas and 11 on E85. Got it tuned and the v4 (AFM) turned off. Got the same mileage but made more power/went faster. With all my exhaust changes I've seen as high as 19 MPG on gas and 16 on E85, going the same roads that I used to get 14.5 and 11. I had a decent highway drive the other day and the 25 mile MPG chart showed I was getting a little better mileage on E85 than the best I previously had with the stock manifolds and the flap cut out with the magnaflow and tuned. I gained considerable mileage and power just cutting out the flap and swapping the stock muffler for a magnaflow, I gained a lot more power after the headers and 6.2 catback, but again since then I've stomped on it all over the place so I'm not sure if I'm getting better MPG, but it's not worse. (with the headers and 6.2)

Interested in the results. This thread has already confirmed what I saw when I cut out my flapper. On my otherwise stock exhaust, when I had the stock muffler replaced with a magnaflow and the flapper cut out, I gained a couple of MPH and MPG. Now I have the stock 6.2 catback and my MPH and MPG keeps going up with each change I make to the exhaust.

I picked up a couple of mph and MPG when I cut out the flapper and replaced the stock muffler with a straight through magnaflow. Even wedged open, the flapper is restrictive. I had mine wedged open and it made a difference having it removed.

I've replaced a few GM trans yokes for leaking. We just order a new one from GM and put them on is how we fix them. I'd use yours with the RTV for as long as it holds.