00pooterSS

Any updates? I'm looking at doing this converter too.

No problem glad it helped you. My seats and console lid are still quiet and doing well. My driver seat now has a clunk in the track but that appears to be something is just worn out because the seat actually moves 1/8 inch or so then clunks so something is wearing in the track. Other than that the stuff I posted in the videos is working out With one exception. I ended up pulling my rear seats out and putting bearing grease on the plastic pieces that the rear seat metal brackets go through, for the upper part of the rear seat. After spraying lube back there the noise came back after a couple months. I think it's been a year or so squeak free with the bearing grease.

I've read/heard a couple of things about people saying they had trouble with aftermarket converters but when I ask them what they didn't like, what brand, what problems.....I get ghosted. I have been considering doing a 3000-3200 stall anyway but now it looks like I'll have to replace it if changing the fluid doesn't help stop the shudder. (I've had this work many times in the past so it's where I will start) I've had stalls in the past, I'm just really needing any helpful info on what people have tried and what they did and did not like stalling one of these trucks with the 6L80 Thank you all in advance for any help.

Easy fix, lube the slip yoke on the front of the driveshaft where it goes into the transmission. Pull drive shaft and wipe bearing grease inside the yoke where the splines are (don't put grease on the outside of the yoke just inside on the splines) and put it back in and see if it stops. I've had to do this 1-2 times a year on trucks for the last 20 years and is the only thing I've ever heard someone say "it feels like I got bumped/lightly rear ended".

It's for cutting out and throwing in the trash along with the stock muffler. Both of them are really restrictive. I put a magnaflow straight through muffler on my truck and took that valve out and gained fuel mileage and power. I have a completely different exhaust setup now but back when I did the mod my truck picked up 3 mph at my test spot and a couple of mpg. I had already disabled the DOD/AFM on my truck though.

My current truck has drove me insane with noises. I could be here all day talking about it. I had this rattle we are talking about, a ton of noise from the driver seat, the rear seats were insane (squeaky creaky moany crap) and my center console lid. I have gotten all of those sounds sorted out and it's dead ass quiet now. Took quite a bit of jacking with to get it all figured out and I have several videos on youtube about it all. I need to do a update video on the center console lid because my original fix didn't actually work and I ended up finding a solution that was $3 and 10 seconds of time to fix. Keep at it man, you'll get there. Don't know what to suggest on the door since I haven't experienced that. I have had many cars squeak and creak from the door latches, and hatch back latches, a little bit of grease usually solves it, I've also wrapped them in tape to stop it.

This isn't one of those situations man. I know what you mean but this is just a piss poor design that needs help. I've been a tech for over 20 years, been master certified for many of those. Just putting that out there so that you know I know what I'm looking at here. That sensor is a steering angle sensor and it needs to be stable to report the most accurate reading it can. I have to change these sensors on various vehicles and they are always very firmly mounted. I have no idea how GM let these trucks out the door with such a sloppy fit. And to answer your question man, no I haven't had any issues what so ever. It's still perfect and perfectly quiet.

I already have shock extenders on my truck since I had shackles on it with the lift blocks removed. Wondering if I should keep them on or take them off. I'm doing a maxtrac flip kit and gonna run it at 5" or 6" drop, haven't fully decided. Looking at the angles of the shocks and knowing that the more the shock is laid over the less effective it is, I would think it would be best for me to keep them. Has anyone tried running them versus not running them and noticed the difference? If so which setup did you like best?

No problem, glad to help

When I got my truck I noticed it always made a clicking sound from in the truck when turning the steering wheel and it would make the same sound when hitting bumps in the road. I did this little cardboard mod many months ago and it's been perfectly quiet ever since. I forgot all about it till today figured I would share. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa-Hzdo6hMU

If I had any idea of what they were worth I may offer to sell mine. I'm digging that all terrain grill I posted

Just found this, grill looks good like that, yours will be better with the painted bumpers though. I think if I do a grill I'll do this

Gotcha. BTW I gained the 3 mph and mpg vs having the flapper wedged open with the stock muffler, and then went to the magnaflow and cut out the flapper. That sucks about the v4 helicopter sound, but if you have it wedged open and are fine with it then sounds like you'd be okay getting rid of it. Maybe take the flapper home and keep it in case you want it put back in. I just personally hate the idea of having the flapper after taking a good look at it after it was cut off. Even wedged open it takes up a considerable amount of space in the pipe. Your truck your thing, just tossing out my experience with removing it and looking at it in my hand and thinking holy crap, even open, that's a big restriction. (keep in mind the restriction to flow wont just be from the physical size of the flapper, but also restriction of air trying to get around it and the disturbance in flow, add the physical size and the flow restriction together, makes for quite a bit of a restriction)

I have a little test spot where I test mods. When I replaced my muffler with a magnaflow and removed the cutout at the same time I gained 3 mph and after that I saw an increase of a couple of mpg too. I gotta ask, why would you choose to keep the flapper, it's a pretty big restriction and makes adding in a free flowing muffler pointless.

Dammit I went back a few pages and saw there is a bulletin on fixing this and it's similar to what I did. It does include bracing the white plastic pieces I modified by wrapping them in tape. Well if yall feel like trying my method it's working great. A mixture of all methods is probably best.. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10072596-0335.pdf