Any updates? I'm looking at doing this converter too.
No problem glad it helped you. My seats and console lid are still quiet and doing well. My driver seat now has a clunk in the track but that appears to be something is just worn out because the seat actually moves 1/8 inch or so then clunks so something is wearing in the track. Other than that the stuff I posted in the videos is working out With one exception. I ended up pulling my rear seats out and putting bearing grease on the plastic pieces that the rear seat metal brackets go through, for the upper part of the rear seat. After spraying lube back there the noise came back after a couple months. I think it's been a year or so squeak free with the bearing grease.
I've read/heard a couple of things about people saying they had trouble with aftermarket converters but when I ask them what they didn't like, what brand, what problems.....I get ghosted. I have been considering doing a 3000-3200 stall anyway but now it looks like I'll have to replace it if changing the fluid doesn't help stop the shudder. (I've had this work many times in the past so it's where I will start) I've had stalls in the past, I'm just really needing any helpful info on what people have tried and what they did and did not like stalling one of these trucks with the 6L80 Thank you all in advance for any help.
Easy fix, lube the slip yoke on the front of the driveshaft where it goes into the transmission. Pull drive shaft and wipe bearing grease inside the yoke where the splines are (don't put grease on the outside of the yoke just inside on the splines) and put it back in and see if it stops. I've had to do this 1-2 times a year on trucks for the last 20 years and is the only thing I've ever heard someone say "it feels like I got bumped/lightly rear ended".
It's for cutting out and throwing in the trash along with the stock muffler. Both of them are really restrictive. I put a magnaflow straight through muffler on my truck and took that valve out and gained fuel mileage and power. I have a completely different exhaust setup now but back when I did the mod my truck picked up 3 mph at my test spot and a couple of mpg. I had already disabled the DOD/AFM on my truck though.
My current truck has drove me insane with noises. I could be here all day talking about it. I had this rattle we are talking about, a ton of noise from the driver seat, the rear seats were insane (squeaky creaky moany crap) and my center console lid. I have gotten all of those sounds sorted out and it's dead ass quiet now. Took quite a bit of jacking with to get it all figured out and I have several videos on youtube about it all. I need to do a update video on the center console lid because my original fix didn't actually work and I ended up finding a solution that was $3 and 10 seconds of time to fix. Keep at it man, you'll get there. Don't know what to suggest on the door since I haven't experienced that. I have had many cars squeak and creak from the door latches, and hatch back latches, a little bit of grease usually solves it, I've also wrapped them in tape to stop it.
This isn't one of those situations man. I know what you mean but this is just a piss poor design that needs help. I've been a tech for over 20 years, been master certified for many of those. Just putting that out there so that you know I know what I'm looking at here. That sensor is a steering angle sensor and it needs to be stable to report the most accurate reading it can. I have to change these sensors on various vehicles and they are always very firmly mounted. I have no idea how GM let these trucks out the door with such a sloppy fit. And to answer your question man, no I haven't had any issues what so ever. It's still perfect and perfectly quiet.
I wouldn't waste my time with a 5.3. I'm in the same boat as you and looking for a L86 now. Look around you can get an L86 for around 2500 now on offer up and if you look enough in the right places. Swap in a L86 with cam (you'll then already have the coveted l86 intake) and sell your L83 for 1000-1500 Whole lot of gain going that route for little money.
Just went through this with the max trac flip kit. My rear pinion angle was pretty far off. I ended up using the gold (thicker) supplied spacer on the transmission and the pinion angle was really off. It was at 5 degrees up. I hate the idea of shims so I modified the flip kit buckets (brackets?) to allow the pinion to rotate downward. I trimmed the front tabs of the buckets (can't think of the proper name for them at this time) and then trimmed the half circle part of them to allow the pinion to not only rotate downward but to allow it to sit down in the bucket and make contact with the axle tube as designed. I had 5 degrees pinion angle upward, and transmission 5 degrees down when I started. I now have 0 degree pinion angle, 2 degree drive shaft angle upward toward trans and the trans angle is now at 4 degrees giving me a perfect 2 degrees at the front and rear u joint. I the silver thin spacer on the trans first. It wasn't enough. I tired 2 degree spacers on the rear and they weren't enough. However even when my truck was bone stock the pinion angle was too high and caused vibrations so things were all wrong to begin with anyway. The best way to do all this would be put the gold shim under the trans and take the truck to a shop to have the leaf spring perches cut and relocated. I say that because if you look close you'll probably also notice it sits off center from left to right and you can have that corrected too all while not using shims. I did a lot of cutting and modifying things to center my rear end too. If you use shims you need to extend the leaf spring bolt length so that it reaches through the shim and into the flip kit bucket the rear end sits in. All these things are why it would be best, and would I would do next time, to just have the perches cut of and welded on in the right location.
I already have shock extenders on my truck since I had shackles on it with the lift blocks removed. Wondering if I should keep them on or take them off. I'm doing a maxtrac flip kit and gonna run it at 5" or 6" drop, haven't fully decided. Looking at the angles of the shocks and knowing that the more the shock is laid over the less effective it is, I would think it would be best for me to keep them. Has anyone tried running them versus not running them and noticed the difference? If so which setup did you like best?
Same happened to me when I put headers and 3.5" catback on my truck. But when I got the tune corrected all the power came back plus some. The problem wasn't that I made the exhaust flow better, it was that the tune needed to be corrected for the additional flow. Likely the same issue with yours. Open up flow, it gets a little lean, little lean feels a little less powerful.
If you still have stock manifolds and cats the muffler wont make you lose low end. Headers is what MIGHT make you lose a little low end, if you go to larger primaries than needed for the setup. You lose low end when you lose exhaust velocity that pulls fresh air in the cylinder during overlap, that is called scavenging. Which I don't think the stock cams even have overlap. But the scavenging effect still helps, but you wont lose scavenging from just a muffler swap, if anything you'll gain. You may lose a tiny bit of low end if you go to large tube headers, and large exhaust. But lol no you won't lose from a muffler. When I had stock manifolds and cats, I swapped to a maganaflow straight through muffler and cut out the flapper valve. I gained a couple mpg, I gained 3mph at my test spot that is approx 1000-1100 feet ( I always test my mph there after making a change) and it felt better everywhere. In short. Have the muffler done and ignore those guys, they "know just enough to be dangerous" My tuner has also said several customers have called them and said they gained mpg by swapping the cat back, which you'll be doing a similar thing by swapping the muffler. You're gonna actually pick up everywhere, not lose. As for your manifold and throttle body, those are more likely to kill a tiny bit of low end than the muffler.
No problem, glad to help
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