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don67

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Everything posted by don67

  1. If valve seals ever hope to separate young men from their money as effectively as catch cans do, they're gonna need some Youtube videos depicting the horrors of a spoonful of nasty black motor oil. It's a visual thing.
  2. My 2018 Silverado has the same setup as the OP, and one occasion I've towed at the limit (tractor + float). Braking was fine, as was handling at speeds below 50mph. Above 50mph however felt a little squirrely... not something I'd want to do for hours on end. Especially not with a boxy trailer that catches a lot of sidewind. 7,000 to 8,000 lb is probably the 'comfort limit' for long-distance hauling.
  3. I've sprayed my frame with a DIY oil/solvent/vaseline solution, and so far (in my third Canadian winter) no loss of factory undercoating. Not sure it's a big loss if you do lose the OEM coating. The coating on my truck was bleeding rust right through it, especially around the frame welds, when the truck was brand new. I'll take my periodic oil sprays, thanks, and the less it costs the better. It's supposed to be cheap insurance after all.
  4. Here's my review of the Kirkland 0w20 Dexos oil, finally available in Canada. It's dirt cheap... we're talkin' 30-50% cheaper than sale-priced Mobil, Castrol, etc. It meets all OEM specs, and makes my truck go vrrrrm vrrrrm!
  5. Fluid Film is great stuff. I just can't get over the cost, especially if you're diligent about reapplying it every 6-12 months. A good low-cost alternative is to dissolve a little petroleum jelly in ATF fluid and solvent (I use an old blender), and spray that on. It creeps into all the nooks and crannies before congealing into a nice even layer of tacky pink snot. As with Fluid Film, a single application is enough to add years to your rocker panels and other enclosed body cavities. Exposed areas will need periodic reapplication; I do seasonal touch-ups while swapping tires. Also like Fluid Film, it is not 100% rubber-friendly so you want to avoid saturating your bushings and door seals with the stuff.
  6. Respect to the guys who spend hours scouring and prepping their truck frame, but it's not for me. I just spot-spray it with whatever sticky oil-based product I have lying around, or can mix up. It's quick and effective, and doesn't seem to hurt the factory wax (which is of dubious value anyway).
  7. I've done the DIY thing too, with my air compressor. But I got tired of my sinuses being packed with oil, and my wife wasn't too crazy about the slick on the driveway either. ?
  8. That'll certainly do it, but @ $120-140 per application it violates my personal policy of "cheap insurance". I prefer to have a full oil spray done when the vehicle is new, and maybe every 2 or 3 years thereafter. In the meantime I keep a can of spray goop around for quick touch-ups when swapping the tires every spring and fall. Fluid Film, Rust Check, Corrosion Free... it's all good. So is a spray bottle filled with WD40 and some vaseline or linseed oil. In the end it's all about maximizing service life (or resale value) for as little $$$ as possible.
  9. Well, that didn't take long. Four months of road salt and the frame of my 2018 Silverado has surface rust peeking through the wax coating all over the place. Then again I didn't expect it to hold up like my 2012 Volvo, which already looks better by comparison. Looks like pressure washing & Krown will be a springtime ritual with the Chevy.
  10. I like a good conspiracy theory as much as the next guy, particularly when it involves the manufacturer of my craptacular 1980 Pontiac that turned me off American cars for over 30 years. That said, it's hard to be sure of how widespread defective driveshafts really are, given how many of these trucks are sold every year. At these sales volumes it only takes a 0.1% defect rate to create a huge uproar in the forums. And then there are the cases like mine, where a tire swap or other "quick fix" did in fact solve the problem. GM was right to suggest it as a first line of attack. Anyway, I hope the more seriously afflicted owners do find a cure. Big corporations are driven by economics, always seeking the cheapest possible way around a problem. The trick is to make it unbearably expensive for them to ignore you.
  11. Sorry for the late response. I have the OEM Wranglers... brand-new truck just this summer. Definitely try your luck at a private tire shop. A good one will be happy to diagnose what the dealer missed, and give it to you in writing. I was lucky that my dealer recognized the shaking, as it wasn't very severe. Although I said it was gone in my previous post, I still get traces of it at highway speeds but not all the time. Not sure this truck will ever feel glassy-smooth.
  12. It's important that your dealership is equipped with a road force tire balancer. My Silverado's rear tires were found to have over 20 lb each of road force, resulting in two new tires under warranty and no more shaking.
  13. Aside from a little juddering now and then I really don't mind the Rancheros. By comparison my old Ford shuddered and shook like a school bus. Handled like one too. Yeah, yeah, ignorance is bliss. But it can also be financially smart. Edit: Polls of this nature invariably attract more modders than average owners, so take the results with a grain of salt.
  14. Oil itself shouldn't hurt the wax, since both are petroleum-based. It's the solvents used to thin down the oil that might be a problem.
  15. My experience is that spraying over rust with any product does little to slow it down. You feel good about it for a few weeks, but the rust always comes back worse than ever. Sanding down to bare metal then priming and painting lasts a lot longer. If you have the luxury of a newer vehicle then your best bet is to delay the onset of rust in the first place. Asphalt or wax coatings are an effective solution for 5 or 6 years, but after that they tend to promote rust as they dry out and crack. Annual oil sprays are more effective, but messy.
  16. Wow, 799 pages to this thread. And soon to be 800. My brand-new 2018 Z71 has a mild shake at 110 km/h, felt mostly in the seatbacks and pedals. Will report it at my next dealership visit.
  17. Oil spraying is indeed messy, but in the long run (ie: 5-15 years) it's the only way to significantly extend the life of your frame, body panels, brake lines, fuel lines, etc. in a salty environment. Washing alone will help, but you're still gonna end up with a lot of corrosion-related issues down the road.
  18. This is a paint/primer issue, not a washing issue. Assuming it is the original factory paint, it's worth talking to the dealer and/or contacting GM in search of assistance. If you're stuck doing the repairs yourself, I'd be tempted to try a spray can touchup. See if you can live with that for awhile, deferring the full paint job until the whole truck could use a refresh. There's nothing worse than running to the body shop for every little defect, knowing that more damage is always just around the corner.
  19. Good to know... will stay away from that. I bought a few cans of Rust Cure Formula 3000 for the brake lines, interior panels, etc. It's a light creeping gel (vaseline with additives I suspect) which is supposedly safe for rubber and plastic. Will see how it reacts with the factory frame coating.
  20. Silverado newbie here.... my first post in fact. I've read that the Nox-Rust used on GM truck frames is miscible with oil-based rust inhibitors, suggesting that annual spraying of Fluid Film, Krown, Rust Check, Formula 3000 etc. might help maintain the original factory coating so it doesn't dry and peel off. Does anyone have evidence for or against this? I'm a little surprised by some of the outrage over GM's use of greasy frame wax. Up here in Ottawa the first thing many truck owners do is bath their truck frame in a similar product. In my shopping it seemed that the GM trucks where the only ones not rusting on the dealer lots.
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