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don67

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  • Name
    don67
  • Location
    Ottawa ON
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2018 Silverado LT Z71

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  1. don67
    Without
  2. don67
    If valve seals ever hope to separate young men from their money as effectively as catch cans do, they're gonna need some Youtube videos depicting the horrors of a spoonful of nasty black motor oil. It's a visual thing.
  3. don67
    My 2018 Silverado has the same setup as the OP, and one occasion I've towed at the limit (tractor + float). Braking was fine, as was handling at speeds below 50mph. Above 50mph however felt a little squirrely... not something I'd want to do for hours on end. Especially not with a boxy trailer that catches a lot of sidewind. 7,000 to 8,000 lb is probably the 'comfort limit' for long-distance hauling.
  4. don67
    I've sprayed my frame with a DIY oil/solvent/vaseline solution, and so far (in my third Canadian winter) no loss of factory undercoating. Not sure it's a big loss if you do lose the OEM coating. The coating on my truck was bleeding rust right through it, especially around the frame welds, when the truck was brand new. I'll take my periodic oil sprays, thanks, and the less it costs the better. It's supposed to be cheap insurance after all.
  5. don67
    Here's my review of the Kirkland 0w20 Dexos oil, finally available in Canada. It's dirt cheap... we're talkin' 30-50% cheaper than sale-priced Mobil, Castrol, etc. It meets all OEM specs, and makes my truck go vrrrrm vrrrrm!
  6. don67
    Fluid Film is great stuff. I just can't get over the cost, especially if you're diligent about reapplying it every 6-12 months. A good low-cost alternative is to dissolve a little petroleum jelly in ATF fluid and solvent (I use an old blender), and spray that on. It creeps into all the nooks and crannies before congealing into a nice even layer of tacky pink snot. As with Fluid Film, a single application is enough to add years to your rocker panels and other enclosed body cavities. Exposed areas will need periodic reapplication; I do seasonal touch-ups while swapping tires. Also like Fluid Film, it is not 100% rubber-friendly so you want to avoid saturating your bushings and door seals with the stuff.
  7. don67
    Respect to the guys who spend hours scouring and prepping their truck frame, but it's not for me. I just spot-spray it with whatever sticky oil-based product I have lying around, or can mix up. It's quick and effective, and doesn't seem to hurt the factory wax (which is of dubious value anyway).
  8. don67
    I've done the DIY thing too, with my air compressor. But I got tired of my sinuses being packed with oil, and my wife wasn't too crazy about the slick on the driveway either. ?
  9. don67
    That'll certainly do it, but @ $120-140 per application it violates my personal policy of "cheap insurance". I prefer to have a full oil spray done when the vehicle is new, and maybe every 2 or 3 years thereafter. In the meantime I keep a can of spray goop around for quick touch-ups when swapping the tires every spring and fall. Fluid Film, Rust Check, Corrosion Free... it's all good. So is a spray bottle filled with WD40 and some vaseline or linseed oil. In the end it's all about maximizing service life (or resale value) for as little $$$ as possible.
  10. don67
    Well, that didn't take long. Four months of road salt and the frame of my 2018 Silverado has surface rust peeking through the wax coating all over the place. Then again I didn't expect it to hold up like my 2012 Volvo, which already looks better by comparison. Looks like pressure washing & Krown will be a springtime ritual with the Chevy.
  11. don67
    I like a good conspiracy theory as much as the next guy, particularly when it involves the manufacturer of my craptacular 1980 Pontiac that turned me off American cars for over 30 years. That said, it's hard to be sure of how widespread defective driveshafts really are, given how many of these trucks are sold every year. At these sales volumes it only takes a 0.1% defect rate to create a huge uproar in the forums. And then there are the cases like mine, where a tire swap or other "quick fix" did in fact solve the problem. GM was right to suggest it as a first line of attack. Anyway, I hope the more seriously afflicted owners do find a cure. Big corporations are driven by economics, always seeking the cheapest possible way around a problem. The trick is to make it unbearably expensive for them to ignore you.
  12. don67
    Sorry for the late response. I have the OEM Wranglers... brand-new truck just this summer. Definitely try your luck at a private tire shop. A good one will be happy to diagnose what the dealer missed, and give it to you in writing. I was lucky that my dealer recognized the shaking, as it wasn't very severe. Although I said it was gone in my previous post, I still get traces of it at highway speeds but not all the time. Not sure this truck will ever feel glassy-smooth.
  13. don67
    It's important that your dealership is equipped with a road force tire balancer. My Silverado's rear tires were found to have over 20 lb each of road force, resulting in two new tires under warranty and no more shaking.
  14. don67
    Aside from a little juddering now and then I really don't mind the Rancheros. By comparison my old Ford shuddered and shook like a school bus. Handled like one too. Yeah, yeah, ignorance is bliss. But it can also be financially smart. Edit: Polls of this nature invariably attract more modders than average owners, so take the results with a grain of salt.
  15. don67
    Oil itself shouldn't hurt the wax, since both are petroleum-based. It's the solvents used to thin down the oil that might be a problem.
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