I've sprayed my frame with a DIY oil/solvent/vaseline solution, and so far (in my third Canadian winter) no loss of factory undercoating. Not sure it's a big loss if you do lose the OEM coating. The coating on my truck was bleeding rust right through it, especially around the frame welds, when the truck was brand new. I'll take my periodic oil sprays, thanks, and the less it costs the better. It's supposed to be cheap insurance after all.
Here's my review of the Kirkland 0w20 Dexos oil, finally available in Canada. It's dirt cheap... we're talkin' 30-50% cheaper than sale-priced Mobil, Castrol, etc. It meets all OEM specs, and makes my truck go vrrrrm vrrrrm!
Fluid Film is great stuff. I just can't get over the cost, especially if you're diligent about reapplying it every 6-12 months. A good low-cost alternative is to dissolve a little petroleum jelly in ATF fluid and solvent (I use an old blender), and spray that on. It creeps into all the nooks and crannies before congealing into a nice even layer of tacky pink snot. As with Fluid Film, a single application is enough to add years to your rocker panels and other enclosed body cavities. Exposed areas will need periodic reapplication; I do seasonal touch-ups while swapping tires. Also like Fluid Film, it is not 100% rubber-friendly so you want to avoid saturating your bushings and door seals with the stuff.
Respect to the guys who spend hours scouring and prepping their truck frame, but it's not for me. I just spot-spray it with whatever sticky oil-based product I have lying around, or can mix up. It's quick and effective, and doesn't seem to hurt the factory wax (which is of dubious value anyway).
That'll certainly do it, but @ $120-140 per application it violates my personal policy of "cheap insurance". I prefer to have a full oil spray done when the vehicle is new, and maybe every 2 or 3 years thereafter. In the meantime I keep a can of spray goop around for quick touch-ups when swapping the tires every spring and fall. Fluid Film, Rust Check, Corrosion Free... it's all good. So is a spray bottle filled with WD40 and some vaseline or linseed oil. In the end it's all about maximizing service life (or resale value) for as little $$$ as possible.
The discussion of whether or not a given model "needs" an extra warranty is irrelevant, since model reputation is priced into the warranty. Bottom line is that extended warranties are a tax on people who don't budget for repairs. Instead of buying a $40,000 truck with a $3,000 extended warranty, they should buy a $37,000 truck and keep some money in the bank. It's really that simple.
Most Nissan Titan nightmare stories stem from the early 2000s, when Nissan went on a cost-cutting binge and produced some truly crappy vehicles. Newer models are almost certainly better, although I wouldn't expect any significant advantage over other brands in terms of reliability or resale value. The biggest deterrent to buying a Titan over a domestic brand is poor selection and lack of qualified aftermarket repair shops.
Well, that didn't take long. Four months of road salt and the frame of my 2018 Silverado has surface rust peeking through the wax coating all over the place. Then again I didn't expect it to hold up like my 2012 Volvo, which already looks better by comparison. Looks like pressure washing & Krown will be a springtime ritual with the Chevy.
I like a good conspiracy theory as much as the next guy, particularly when it involves the manufacturer of my craptacular 1980 Pontiac that turned me off American cars for over 30 years. That said, it's hard to be sure of how widespread defective driveshafts really are, given how many of these trucks are sold every year. At these sales volumes it only takes a 0.1% defect rate to create a huge uproar in the forums. And then there are the cases like mine, where a tire swap or other "quick fix" did in fact solve the problem. GM was right to suggest it as a first line of attack. Anyway, I hope the more seriously afflicted owners do find a cure. Big corporations are driven by economics, always seeking the cheapest possible way around a problem. The trick is to make it unbearably expensive for them to ignore you.
Sorry for the late response. I have the OEM Wranglers... brand-new truck just this summer. Definitely try your luck at a private tire shop. A good one will be happy to diagnose what the dealer missed, and give it to you in writing. I was lucky that my dealer recognized the shaking, as it wasn't very severe. Although I said it was gone in my previous post, I still get traces of it at highway speeds but not all the time. Not sure this truck will ever feel glassy-smooth.
It's important that your dealership is equipped with a road force tire balancer. My Silverado's rear tires were found to have over 20 lb each of road force, resulting in two new tires under warranty and no more shaking.
Nobody can predict whether or not you will get value of one particular warranty contract. All they can do is offer anecdotal stories and opinions which have no predictive value. Over a lifetime of buying cars and trucks it generally makes sense to skip the extended warranty and pocket the money. In the long run you will almost certainly come ahead, with only temporary setbacks along the way. If you are financially solid my advice is to cancel the warranty and start saving now. If you are not on solid ground - if a large repair bill would ruin your life - then keep the warranty. And consider a less expensive vehicle next time; one that you can afford to pay off during the factory warranty period.
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