Sorry for the late response. I have the OEM Wranglers... brand-new truck just this summer. Definitely try your luck at a private tire shop. A good one will be happy to diagnose what the dealer missed, and give it to you in writing. I was lucky that my dealer recognized the shaking, as it wasn't very severe. Although I said it was gone in my previous post, I still get traces of it at highway speeds but not all the time. Not sure this truck will ever feel glassy-smooth.
It's important that your dealership is equipped with a road force tire balancer. My Silverado's rear tires were found to have over 20 lb each of road force, resulting in two new tires under warranty and no more shaking.
Nobody can predict whether or not you will get value of one particular warranty contract. All they can do is offer anecdotal stories and opinions which have no predictive value. Over a lifetime of buying cars and trucks it generally makes sense to skip the extended warranty and pocket the money. In the long run you will almost certainly come ahead, with only temporary setbacks along the way. If you are financially solid my advice is to cancel the warranty and start saving now. If you are not on solid ground - if a large repair bill would ruin your life - then keep the warranty. And consider a less expensive vehicle next time; one that you can afford to pay off during the factory warranty period.
don67 replied to Sierra Dan's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraAside from a little juddering now and then I really don't mind the Rancheros. By comparison my old Ford shuddered and shook like a school bus. Handled like one too. Yeah, yeah, ignorance is bliss. But it can also be financially smart. Edit: Polls of this nature invariably attract more modders than average owners, so take the results with a grain of salt.
The safety police have done a good job of blocking all sorts of convenient features, which ironically leads to more distraction as you fumble around trying to figure out why all that fabulous technology is suddenly not cooperating. Some days I just feel like replacing my smart phone with some plastic cups and string.
+1 Financing a depreciating asset over 8 years is a really bad idea. If you can't pay it off within 3-5 years (the warranty period) then you can't afford it. It's that simple, and yet so many people get it wrong. People also turn a blind eye to the hidden cost of this "free money". By accepting the current zero percent offer you may lose ~$1200 in cash rebates.
If you're gonna spend $40k+ then spend it well. Nothing worse than botching a major purchase, especially if it is (let's face it) a status symbol. My 6-passenger leather crew cab gets compliments everywhere, and does everything. No regrets, no apologies.
Fair enough, Nick. As long as there is a genuine problem for which a "difference" is needed. My cynicism stems from years in the car business, where young men and their money are frequently parted by magic potions and gadgets. It's the same shtick every time. Create fear by building up a problem that may or may not actually exist, present a pseudo-scientific solution which offers vague benefits, throw in a few cliches about why automakers don't want you to know about it, and then charge an inflated price so your customers write inflated testimonials. Anyway I'm actually interested in catch cans, and will be watching this thread with interest
I get the logic of how catch cans work, and why it is intuitively a good thing to prevent watery oil from being sucked into your engine. Especially a GDI engine. I get it. What I don't see is context. If there's a safe level for cholesterol in my blood and arsenic in my drinking water, then there is a safe level for impure oil re-entering my impure engine along with impure gasoline and impure air. What is that number? By what % does a catch can reduce it? And by what % does this reduction improve vehicle reliability and longevity? Without this information it's just a bunch of storytelling; a classic marketing solution looking for a problem.
My experience is that spraying over rust with any product does little to slow it down. You feel good about it for a few weeks, but the rust always comes back worse than ever. Sanding down to bare metal then priming and painting lasts a lot longer. If you have the luxury of a newer vehicle then your best bet is to delay the onset of rust in the first place. Asphalt or wax coatings are an effective solution for 5 or 6 years, but after that they tend to promote rust as they dry out and crack. Annual oil sprays are more effective, but messy.
Wow, 799 pages to this thread. And soon to be 800. My brand-new 2018 Z71 has a mild shake at 110 km/h, felt mostly in the seatbacks and pedals. Will report it at my next dealership visit.
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