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Everything posted by Seapacer2
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I will send you wiring schematic tonight once I get home to PC, hard to do on a phone.
No instructions came with the relay.
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Ok!!!! GOT IT WORKING!!!! I traced it down to the broken gray wire from the headlight switch down to where the BCM is. I left the harness that I got from Phil in place and just hooked it up to the relay board. I checked for power. Was getting power at the board CH1. at the connector where i spliced it in, but no power at the headlight switch. I cut the wire at the headlight switch, ran a new gray wire down to the relay board AND NOW IT WORKS!!!!! I only have to do a simple tap on the headlight switch and it turns on and off. The switch lights up amber but no icon on the dash.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP. NOW THAT IVE DONE IT, ITS PRETTY EASY TO DO.
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I saw you posted on TinkeringFox's Off-Road Light Switch Install, I like the modifications you did to your console, adding the switch panel and moving the cup holders further to the front, was this a easy modification, could you share what you did?
Thanks,, Mark
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Hardest part of the install was feeding wires through the firewall and prying up the cup holders.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvFHA1xY10w
This is the link for the relay board I copied kind of. It is mounted to a piece of 2x6 and placed in the second battery tray.
Underneath the cupholder there are actually slots where I fed my wires through to the switch board. Originally I thought I was going to have to drill but I am happy I got to do it this way. I can revert entirely to stock if I ever wanted to.
Please do not hesitate to ask anything or ask for specific pictures.
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Happy Saturday DMAXNAZ,
Your truck looks great, this is the 3rd GMC Sierra I have had and they have all had the typical rake, my 2018 seems to be the worst. After measuring, I have a 3 to 3.25" difference between the front and the rear. it is very noticeable. On my 08, I utilized the OEM green keys, they are clocked differently and I only had to crank on them a couple of turns to bring the difference between front and rear to about .5". The original difference on this truck between the front and rear was 2.0" I also installed Bilstein 5100's all the way around and didn't compromise the ride quality, in fact it got a little better.
I know that most guys that I talk to are pushing the upper control arm kits with new keys, I know that I can just crank up the original keys and make this rake better if not go away, but don't really want to sacrifice the ride quality on a month old truck, and yes I can keep throwing parts at it to bring back the ride quality, I also don't like the idea of modifying the frame of a 60K truck. If the long term goal is to install upper control arms, I'm better off purchasing them included in a kit instead of by themselves, it will be the most cost effective way, since they are about $500.00 when purchased separately.
You had mentioned that next time you would just do a rear lowering kit, can you go into detail about this?
I know that most of the 3" Suspension Lifts (aka new keys and UCA), come with each manufacturers own brand name shocks, some have upgraded shock options. I looked at Suspension Max, Ready Lift, Zone, Cognito, Rancho, Tuff Country and Rough Country. Rough Country seems to the most effective way to go, I talked to them about the upper ball joints, they are press fit Moog and are replaceable. My only question, is there brand name shocks, I know most guys that have installed this kit, they have not put too many miles on them yet.
Thanks,
Mark
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When I first put my 285/70/18 tires on my stock wheels I was surprised how much room there was after cranking the front. I know they could have fit without cranking. It's been a couple years, but I think it was Cowpie maybe who dropped his rear 2 inches. Now the rake is mostly gone, and no ride quality sacrificed.
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iamdianieltuck,
I have read all the posts here on adding aux switches, I would like to add them to my new 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT/Diesel/4WD, I know that sometimes when new vehicles are built they have the wiring already there, all you need to do is add components and program the module Today I had a little time to check out the circuit, and its not raining here in Florida, first off I looked at my underhood fuse black X50A, it has all the terminals for the relays and the fuse, I even added fuses to the correct positions in the fuse panel, checked voltage at relay cavity 85 and 30, (12V) battery voltage is present. That is a step in the right direction, them I went to my Instrument panel junction block X61A, I check continuity from X50A to X61A, circuit 965,966, 967, 968, it is a open circuit and that is where the problem, I know that I don't have the X7 connection, and more than likely I don't have the correct pins at the X1 connector at the rear of X61A also. It seems like that if I wanted to utilize the OEM relays that I would have to run 8 circuits from the X50A fuse block to the X61A and then to the Aux Switches. I see that you are selling the X7 connector and wiring harness, this alone is not the only thing needed unless they have the circuits already wired in. What have you run into or what have you heard others are doing?
Thanks,
Seapacer2
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