fish_guru

Anyone have their truck fixed yet? How long did the repair take? Did it work? Does the axle/differential connection feel solid (not move) in 2WD?

I totally agree with the waiting thing. I've been following this thread since it's inception but haven't posted until a fix was in simply because I didn't have any of the same symptoms you guys have had. I'm just worried that if I bring it in there without it making noise GM is not going to approve a warranty repair. That's why I'm curious to read the actual wording of the TSB.

Dilemma.... I have the effected front end (I verified the RPO codes with my build sheet). If I go under the truck I can move the CV driveshaft just like the one in the video. My dilemma is that my truck has never made a peep. No jingle, no clanking...nothing. I've got 14,500 miles on it. However, I worry that 1) it will start making noises at some point and 2) that the slop/play in the shaft can't be good for the drivetrain longevity. Should I ask my dealer to fix and how should I go about it? I would like to read the bulletin. If anybody has it please post.

As the previous person mentioned, there is a thread...I believe it was in the troubleshooting forum . I had the noise. If I remember correctly, the vent line on the fuel filler neck was either too narrow or it needed reinforcement as it would collapse on itself causing the whistling noise. My entire fuel filler neck assembly was replaced under warranty and it solved the problem.

Just e-mail or call GM Customer Service and ask them for it. They will need your VIN.

A new rear window is the definitive solution. Those windows are straight up defective and should be replaced. Adding extra sealant to a defective window is treating the symptom, not the cause IMHO. Unfortunately your dealer is likely to follow GM's TSB so just sit back, play the game and drive the loaner like you stole it. But hey, what do I know...only took them three tries to fix mine...the third time being with a new window.

Mine has worked flawlessly thus far. It took me awhile to learn to trust them but they've been great. Still wish they would have incorporated a small blind spot mirror into the assembly...I know my eyes work everytime.

Many states that have lemon laws allow you to get a new truck but you have to pay "X" amount per mile for usage of the vehicle while it was in service...at least that's how it works in Florida. For Florida.... (Number of miles driven divided by 120,000) X Vehicle Price Example... Let's say you drove it 3000 miles and paid 50K. 3000/120000 = .025 .025 X 50000 = $1,250 You'd be on the hook for $1250. That said, depending on how many miles you have and your states calculation for usage, the 3K the dealership wants may be reasonable...or they could be sticking it to you. In any event, it could be a place to begin negotiations.

Was just thinking the same thing about road trips. I'm usually gone for a good three weeks over the summer. Would it be worthwhile to consider throwing an additional hose clamp over the crimp? Never mind...would most likely void the warranty should anything happen to it. Just sucks that A) these guys have to contend with this on a new vehicle and B) the rest of us can't be proactive to avoid the crimp failure and have to sit here with our fingers crossed.

Trucks from the problem build dates should simply have those windows replaced, period, end of story. They know they're defective. Instead, they are following that ridiculous TSB and attempting to seal an F'ed up window. Most of us end up going back two and three times. They removed and re-set my original window...leaked...re-sealed...leaked...replaced...fixed. Replace the window from the get go and you're good.

I have the Satin Steel. I originally wanted the Silver Ice but after seeing the Metallic Steel on the High Country with the painted 20" rims that matched...done deal.

Not mine. After the third attempt at fixing, it was determined that my window had a hairline crack and was finally replaced.

To that aspect, I think part of the problem is the lack of true 'mechanics'. You know, someone who takes something apart and by using critical thinking and experience, fixes it. Today, we have 'technicians'. Basically someone who reads a TSB and follows a designated repair procedure or plugs in the diagnostic computer and swaps out parts. In other words they're not figuring out why our windows leaked. They are just robotically following the repair procedure put forth by GM. Just sayin'.

Mine does the dash and infotainment lights. And I agree, at full brightness, it's pretty harsh at night. I have mine turned down about half way at night.

https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2019/Chevrolet/silverado-1500/19_CHEV_Silverado_OM_en_US_U_23400204A_2018MAY17.pdf Page 181

If they say there is no damage to the engine, Chevrolet has what's called a Continuing Coverage Letter (CCL) that basically acts like an extended warranty for whatever component(s) the letter says is covered. It will also specify the time period for the coverage as well. At a minimum I would insist I get a CCL for the engine. Hope it works out for you.

I hadn't noticed anything that I wouldn't consider normal. Maybe find someone else with 2019 or go back to the dealer and listen to a few others that are on the lot and compare it to yours.

Curious to see what your dealer says. No amount of reassurance would convince me that there wasn't the possibility of permanent damage done to that engine. Damn that sucks!

I don't know if it's the entire thing. I was just re-posting it from earlier in the thread...I think from page 6 or 7.

By the way, when I got my truck back the first two times I attempted to leak test it myself. I sat there spraying that thing with a hose from every conceivable angle and every pattern on the nozzle for a good 20 minutes and couldn't make it leak. I was like friggin' Forrest Gump...Little bitty stingin' rain, and big ol' fat rain, rain that flew in sideways, and sometimes rain even seemed to come straight up from underneath. But a real light rain for 15 minutes and found water drops in the cab. Can't explain it but when it rained, it leaked.

#18-NA-383: Water Found in Rear Interior of Cab, Water Leak at Rear Sliding Window - (Feb 1, 2019) WINDOW RR-FULL WIDTH, SLIDING, POWER (A48) Customer may comment on finding water in the rear interior of the cab. The cause of the condition may be cracking in the rear sliding window plastic upper rail glass guide. The plastic upper rail glass guide may develop small fractures/cracking which allows water to pass through on the glass side of the urethane that attaches to the vehicle body. Note: The cracks can be in the left and/or right side of the rear sliding window plastic upper rail glass guide which is covered by the roof rear spoiler. Examples of a left (1), then right side (2) visual crack (with the spoiler removed) are shown in the graphics above. R & R the roof rear spoiler and apply seam sealer to the rear sliding window top encapsulate, following the steps in the Service Procedure below. Important: When verifying this condition, ensure that the water leak path is due to cracks in the rear sliding window plastic upper rail glass guide, and NOT a leak in the primary urethane seal, between the window and the body. A leak in the primary urethane seal should be addressed by removing and resealing the window, using the standard service procedure from SI.

I've mentioned this before but make sure you inspect your truck when you get it back BEFORE you drive off. If they remove that rear window the back seats have to come out. My truck had a gouged interior kick panel, 2 loose screws rolling around and some minor paint chips around the back glass. Thankfully my dealer made it right after I raised hell.

Those are the only two issues I've had with my truck so far. Ask them if they want you to reproduce the noise before you leave the dealer...I had to drive back to mine and take the tech for a drive when they couldn't make the noise.

Mine was the rear window. They removed and re-set my current window; still leaked. My dealer said GM would not sign off on a window replacement so they removed the rear spoiler over the back window and added more sealant; still leaked. Finally after getting GM corporate involved my window was replaced. My dealer said they found a hairline crack in my original window. My truck is now leak free.