fish_guru

To my knowledge, no. You may want to think about wiring it directly into the fuse panel and use a fuse tap to connect it into a fuse that only has 'key on' power so that it turns on and off with the truck. Here is a link for a dash cam install I used. It would basically be the same thing except you'd only use one power wire with one fuse tap going into the 7.5 amp heated steering wheel fuse.

Installed a Garmin Dash Cam 55. I opted for the parking mode cable (sold separately) so I hard wired it into the fuse panel on the passenger side of the dash. With the parking cable the camera has power when the truck is off and will record if it detects motion. I used the write up posted on this site for supplies and procedure.

Mine has them. I honestly had no idea I did until I read this and checked. It was on the next to last page of my build sheet... RPO code: VTI - SHUTTERS FRONT GRILLE, ACTIVE, UPR Looks like there is a servo motor in the middle that actuates them.

The only time I really find myself using it is in the mountains when coasting on a sustained downhill grade I will drop a gear or two and allow the engine to assist in slowing the truck and maintain a safe speed instead of riding the brakes...like downshifting in a manual transmission vehicle to slow it down.

The one on my '19 HC has been great. I place the phone on there (in an Otter Box Defender case) and it always starts charging. I timed these charging speed yesterday and found that it charges my Galaxy S8 at about 1% per minute.

My truck is US built. First attempt at fixing it my dealer removed and re-set the window. I also called GM customer service and got a case number. Still leaked. Second attempt, my dealer removed the spoiler piece that overhangs the window and re-sealed it. Was told GM would not sign off on a replacement window. Also called GM customer service and had someone assigned to my case. Still leaked. I sent an e-mail to GM's North American VP explaining my situation. The following day I had a phone call from GM Executive customer service rep. Long story short, my window was finally replaced. The dealer said that they found a hairline crack in my old window. I just got it back on Saturday. I hope it's finally water tight. Hasn't rained yet though. Still love the truck but it's been a very frustrating two months that is hopefully behind me.

I have this issue with my High Country. You must insist, beg, demand, whatever but make sure they REPLACE the back window. Do not let them attempt to re-seal it. Also contact GM and get a case number. Good luck!

I can also conform the fix (TSB # 19-NA-005). I had my truck at the dealer for another warranty issue and had them address the whining noise while it was there. The tech couldn't make the noise so I had to drive over to the dealer, take him for a ride and make the noise. Thankfully I was able to replicate the noise. The fuel hose/pipe assembly was replaced and the noise is finally gone.

I have considered it. Unfortunately I had a bad experience with my 07 Silverado at the closest dealership to my house. Long story short...check engine light, fuel evap system, 5 service visits and over $1000 later and the light continues to come back on. My truck is at the second closest dealer to my home. The next one after that is do-able but a much bigger inconvenience. However it may come down to that.

One thought, I know fresh oil can look transparent on the dipstick...like nothing was on there even though there really is. Only thing that makes sense to me based on your description. Have you started it? If so, what does the pressure gauge show?

As indicated in my previous posts I had a leak as well. I took my truck to the dealer on 1/5/19 and got it back on 1/15/19. My dealer did not replace the window. They re-set my current one. Didn't really care as long as it doesn't leak. While detailing the interior of my truck after getting it back I discovered a large gouge in the plastic kick panel on the drivers side back seat area that they damaged while removing and re-installing the back seats. I also found some minor paint chips under the back glass. In addition, after I picked it up, I kept hearing something roll around the dash area every time I turned. Thought it was the key FOB but after eliminating that possibility I found a loose interior screw rolling around the dash board storage area. Then I found another one in the center console rear cup holder. Then, predictably, I started hearing a squeak from the rear seat area after hitting any bumps...assuming it's the two missing interior screws I found. I expected that stuff when I was 16 and my friend and I took apart my dash to install a radio and had left-over screws when we finished but not when I take my truck to a dealer. These are supposed to be professionals. To make matters worse, after the first rain storm, my truck leaked again! Took it back to the dealer and told my service adviser that everyone I know who has had this problem had their windows replaced, not re-sealed. He called a few days ago and claims GM will not sign off on a window replacement. He claims they found the leak and sealed it. Sure...like they did the first time. Now they are waiting on the kick panel to come in that they damaged. On a side note, prior to taking my truck in the first time, I messaged the GMCustomerService guy who sometimes responds to posts offering to work in conjunction with the dealer as an additional layer of support. No offense, seems like a nice guy, but other than e-mailing the dealership's 'customer experience manager' I don't really know what else they do. It doesn't seem to have helped my situation at all. I really do love the truck but this ordeal is sucking the joy out of the ownership experience.

My '00 Jeep Wrangler has an aftermarket radio with a small magnetic XM antenna that sits on the hood. Not sure if your stock radio is XM enabled and if it is, if it has a port/plug for an antenna but I figured I'd mention the possibility of the external antenna option in case it does. The antenna was about $15 - $20 and is fairly inconspicuous. Plus no drilling/rusting/leaking.

Thanks for the write up. Looks like I have a new project to add to the list.

Check your tire pressure. Mine was delivered with excessive pressure in the tires. When I dropped it to 35 psi (factory specs) the ride quality improved quite a bit. Someone on here had the same issue which is why I checked it.

Just an update... I posted a few days ago that I had the dreaded window leak. At the time I thought it was a small leak. I'm still on vacation and have not returned to South Florida. In NC. It rained all night last night. I went out to the truck this morning and the rolled up hand towel I left on the top of the rear seat, in case it rained again, was completely saturated and water was all over the seats. I replaced the hand towel with a regular sized towel. An hour or so later I went out and checked it again. The towel, while not completely saturated, was well on its way. And I noticed that the corner of the headliner was wet and there was an active drip of water. About a drop every second or two. Replaced the towel and found a blue tarp to cover the back of my 61 thousand dollar (MSRP) truck. SO PISSED! I won't be home for another few days. Praying for fair skies.

Chock up one more with a rear window leak. On vacation in North Carolina and when I opened the rear driver side door after a full day of rain I found water atop my leather seats. Thankfully it appears to small and coming from the very top corner. I've placed a folded up rag on the seat to hopefully catch most of it as it's supposed to rain the next few days and this issue will have to wait another week until I get home.

Lots of us have it.

In my experience high volume dealers tend to discount more. They may make less $ per vehicle but they sell a ton of them. I also find service tends to be lacking at the high volume dealers...just my experience.

My '19 High Country 6.2L stickered at 61.6K. I got it for 53.5K before taxes, tag and title.

Thanks for the info. I did see that thread yesterday in doing research. The '19s are so new there is little if any info on them yet so I was looking at the previous gen trucks. I don't plan on pulling any fuse having to do with the crankshaft nor am I cutting any wires. I'll let the dealer handle it. And yes, that rpm range is when I usually hear the noise.

Well, I found two fuses for the infotainment system. I pulled them both, drove around, and the noise is still there. So unless there is some other fuse for the ANC system, my theory is debunked. I got nothing.

I have an appointment at the dealer for Dec. 4 but based on Bailey's post I'm not expecting much. I still think it's an active noise cancellation problem. Based on Bailey's post he obviously has the same stereo system. I'm going to try to find and pull the fuse for the radio, or more specifically the amp for the subwoofer, and drive around. If the noise is gone it will confirm my suspicion. If it's still there then back to the drawing board. I looked up all the TSB's for these trucks and can't find anything close to what we're describing.

Not very familiar with active noise cancellation so I don't know if the system would be active if the radio was muted or not. For what it's worth I just drove around the neighborhood with the sound system completely turned off and it still did it. Will have to schedule an appointment with the dealer. I can reproduce the noise within 5 minutes or less in a non-highway driving scenario.

I have it too. It's seems to be only when I'm accelerating. If I take my foot off the gas it stops and when I resume accelerating most of the time it's gone but occasionally it will do it again. I would guess that from a dead stop it does it 60%-75% of the time upon acceleration. I was wondering if it was some type of noise cancellation run amok/malfunction. I have the premium Bose sound system. If you have the noise, what stereo system do you have?