SARNCAN

What I did, and I think it is the only way, is to use an OBDII scan tool that has throttle body position relearn special function. I saw this video but I have my doubts that it can work as he explains @5:22

2015 is known for some issues you have to look/ask for. Radiator is know for a leak on this specific model, check it out. A common issue is to get interior lights illuminate when pressing the break, I think the fix is to replace tail lights. For other high milages vehicles, you have to check and ask for the trans fluid change intervals at the maintenance. It should have been replaced regularly. Torque converter is a common issue in all 15-20 GM trucks. In your case since the model and the low milage, I guess it needs to replace all fluid since it has been sit for a while without moving a lot (trans fluid and transfer case if equipped/engine oil/break fluid bleeding/coolant fluid if needed and so on)

I want to install dash cam and accessories to my vehicle, and I have some questions regarding 15+ Tahoe/Yukon fuse box. 1- Is fuse type used Micro2? 2- Although that many spots shown as (empty or spare), fuses cannot be hold there and I guess no metal contact is there. So it is useless. Any suggestions? Would like to use a specific spot for each accessory, not to share fuses. If so, what fuse should I share as a safe option? Such as sharing a heating steering wheel fuse taking in consideration Amps and Volts.

I guess if all factors are good and replaced new (Coils, wires, spark plugs, injectors, and compression test), then I suggest checking EVAP sensor, oxygen sensors, and fuel pump.

That is already too much without towing! And you said yours already have got trans cooler + thermostat mod

Assuming that the thermostat mod was done right, and the transmission cooler is working probably, maybe trans fluid is already in a bad condition. Other thought is that cooler capacity is not high enough for your need. Just assumptions.

The only thing that stopping me from installing the catch can is the warranty. If I keep it while visiting the dealer it will void my warranty, otherwise I have to take it out at every dealer visit.

I saw a case of a 2008 Tahoe where the AFM was inactive for about two years with the car running about 155k miles due to sensor problem that causes the AFM to be disabled. Once he fixed the problem, AFM kicked back working again, but after that for a short period of time, lifters gone bad. Carbon deposit was building up for the whole time, and once the AFM worked agin they get stuck. My suggestions are, if you will disable AFM, then don’t return it back again. The other option, is to clean the engine regularly with flushing and probably (Seafoam/CRC) intake valves cleaner to maintain as much as possible of internal components so if you return AFM, hopefully it will not cause a problem. This is as well comes together with choosing good oil brand and change it regularly. This video is helpful to understand the importance of keeping the internal parts clean of GDI engines,, @ 8:05 he starts talking about carbon deposit that affects the valves and lifters at the same time.

You’ll need the VIN number of the car that has the HMI before, if it is new, you have to add your VIN using GM software.

Have you tried injectors cleaning products?

Check and make sure that you are not towing more than ratings

Oil leak is not related to AFM over ride, but regarding the ranger, I have heard that using V8 for a long time and then use AFM V8/V4 will cause lifters failure at some point after. Not sure why or if that was a coincidence, but it happened for a previous generation SUV of GM

I have no experience on that, but recently I saw a video of Tahoe doing those setups. Engine is similar 5.3L so it might be helpful to you

Although that the pressure is very high inside, carbon can still build up since you are not using the vehicle at full power all the time, and when you turn it off and lit it sit it can start build up. Cleaning regularly and perhaps using a catch can an help a little.If the high pressure cannot help by it self with the additive, probably injectors can be taken out and be cleaned at the ultrasonic cleaning machine. Check the video at 14:50 Check as well this image from the owner’s manual, it talks about Fuel Additives.

Our vehicles are direct injection, they are exposed to contamination from gases and oil oxidation. They need to be regularly cleaned to ensure they are not clogged. Non DI is at least better since they are not inside the combustion chamber. Using CRC or Seafoam valves cleaner helps as well. Bad or non clean fuel can cause problems as well. But I would totally agree with the need to check wires, spark plugs, and coils as mentioned or less cost fix firstly.

I agree with CamGTP. Try as well to use injectors cleaner, you might have bad oxygen/fuel mixture at the combustion chamber

I believe I have read some post regarding bad received signal with remote start. Could be something similar that needs a trip to the dealer. Regarding difference from right to left side, I assumed the distance from the receptor to the key fob is different. But I think if the remote start works fine from far a way, then you need to check the dealer

You might only have a bad Key fob battery that needs to be replaced. Have you tried replacing it? Being a little far from the receptor, or weak signal can disturb its functionality.

Check two thing, first is the main fuses after the battery (located at the top of the battery I guess) as well as their connection to be tight. Second, is the battery rating amps (should be 80 amps not less). If that didn’t help, I guess you need to check the wires for any damages or to check the power steering motor underneath since it is electrical and it may draw high current (check the diagram I’ve attached earlier)

Yes I saw the video and my reply was based on that. Keep us updated, and I hope that problem get fixed.

Your problem is electrical, so start from there. Check that both battery terminals are tight and secure, then check the battery health (and rating), it must be at least 80 Amps. Then check the main fuse box right after the battery at a pro workshop or the dealer. Last, which more likely not the problem, is to check the alternator. Check this diagram, that explains why you’ve got a message about the steering.

Does that noise come only at moving motion or even while the car is parked?

@ EXSlider400 [emoji1312][emoji1312][emoji849]

No problem. It is really weird that it is so picky, but at least glad that it finally worked well. Cheers