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Everything posted by JONBLARC7

  1. I'll never understand people like you. Who just get off on being a dick to be a dick and hiding behind a keyboard makes it so much easier. You still haven't posted up your truck to let us take a look. I built my truck myself, Heads, cam, DOD delete, shimmed the the HPFP, headers, E85 sensor, intake, wideband and I'm not to bad with HP tuner. The only thing I didn't do is weld in the muffler. Let us know how your build is going. I'm waiting??????? But don't waste your time. Have a good day.
  2. It's his money he can build his truck any way he wants. Why come on here just to talk ****** about how somebody didn't build it right. When you, don't have a build your self. You say you like NA builds but don't have the funds. Well maybe he didn't have the funds to buy a 6.2 at the time. So he built a truck that would walk my cam and heads 6.2. You want to keep it NA if you do build your truck right. Well well if that isn't leave 200 HP on the table. But lets be honest, your not ever going to build your truck and that's ok. But why tell somebody they needed to spend more money when you can't spend it your self.
  3. Sorry I should have read the rest of the thread before I asked the first question. Your set up is exactly what I'm going for down to the LT4 injectors only. What cam do you have? I have the TSP stage 2 218/226 with 32% over fuel lobe.
  4. What does it stall up to now and do you have a 5.3 or 6.2?? and what mods do you have. I would love to put one in my cam, heads L86.
  5. Time is money too and that's a lot and I mean a lot of work for 10hp. If you going to do it your self just save up for a full cam kit and go ahead a delete those ticking time bombs they call DOD lifters. Ask me how I know.
  6. Mine only had one resonator. There are 3 cats, So you could remove the third cat with out any problems.
  7. louder yes but not a huge difference. With my headers and catless y pipe. I put a magnaflow 12909 on. I wanted it just alittle louder so I cut off my resonate and left it dumped over the rear axle. It made it just slightly louder but better.
  8. I think it’s more in the 120 range but yes they do go out. But with my tires I wouldn’t go 120. No numbers because it was remote tuned for the cam. Then I added headers intake and Wideband later and made the adjustments my self. It runs good though, my wife has a Scat Pack Charger with the 6.4. I raced her to 70 the other day only Launching in 2wd and had her by a truck until we let out. That’s with 33 mud tires and 22x12 rims.
  9. So it's not going out but the people you talked to told you. You need to get a new converter for basic bolt-ons. If that's true you need to talk to new people!!!! I have all that plus a cam and heads and still use the stock converter.
  10. Yea I'm tuning it my self so I'm targeting 1.135 in PE which is .88 Lambda. I usually hang right around .87 to .88 in a pull. I still need to clean up my VE table alittle.
  11. Good deal I just want people to know and double check by logging before you go ripping around. Obviously something when wrong with my line when I heated it up and bent it out straight. .93 lambda might hurt something
  12. I tired the line post earlier again but I spun around the top fitting so the tank line came in from the drivers side door. Something must be pinched or it shrunk when I heated it up to straighten it out. With the line added it makes my WOT go lean. Around .91 to .93 lambda, Then I can come right back home take the line off and go for a log again and it goes right back to where it should be around .87 lambda. This is all checked with my wideband. So be careful. The Russell fitting didn't have this problem but they failed on my after two years. So I'm going to go back to that style and just use the more expensive DSX fitting. You can't go by your STFT or LTFT because it doesn't reference those during WOT pulls. That's why the STFT go to 0% as soon as the truck goes into PE.
  13. Thanks I was thinking about it last night and maybe one of the clips on the top of the fuel tank that hold the soft line in place was pinching that line. I'll hook it up again and spin the soft fuel line around like you have it and log again.
  14. Here is how I had the line bent. If it’s not the new fuel line I guess I could of been punching the flexible fuel line coming off the fuel tank. But don’t believe that’s it. If you logs come back fine. I’ll dig into it deeper.
  15. You could be 100% right. Because like I said the way I bent the line wasn’t quite like yours. I didn’t realize you spun the line from the tank around 180 degrees. just wanted to let you know. Mine was being pinched or blocked somewhere.
  16. Confirmed at lunch that the line was causing a restriction. I removed it and just plug the fuel lines back into there stock spot and my fuel trims went back to the way it was before. I'm going to go with the DXS fitting that is straight instead. I never had a restriction with the Russell fitting that where straight. So I'm going to go back to something like that.
  17. Have you logged you fuel trims after adding this fuel line. After my Russell fittings failed I decided to use this line. But I didn't from memory remember you flipped the fitting coming from the tank. So my sensor it hanging out over the drive shaft. But it shouldn't flow much different than how you have it set up. I've been dialing in my spark since I already had my MAF and VE fueling dialed in pretty good. After the only thing I did to the truck last night was I added that fuel line. Now under WOT my fuel trims read much leaner. At idol and cruising it's fine but I think it's causing a bottle neck at WOT. My MAF error went from -1 to -2 to 8 to 10 and the wideband confirms it. I'm usually around .86 lambda and before I noticed it was lean I was at .95. Not good for WOT I'm going to go out and take it off a log again and see if it goes back to the way it was be for.
  18. You lucky they only charged you 35. I had the same thing happen to my clamp when I did my headers about 2 months ago. I had too cut my clamp off. The Stealership charged me 56 bucks for the 3.5" clamp for my 6.2!!!!!!!!
  19. You need to remove the Flex Fuel Sensor part. It's just a rear line. Here you go https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-original-equipment-front-fuel-supply-hose-mpn-23171534.html
  20. Just wanted to update this thread. Don't use the Russell fittings that I originally used. (the blue colored fitting). They will FAIL, mine did after two years of being on the truck. This weekend I went to unhook my boat for the truck and it would hardly run. When I opened the drivers side door it sounded like a shower under my truck. When I cycled the key to the on position but didn't start it. I was spraying 40 psi of fuel on to the ground. Luckily I wasn't running E85 at the time so I was able to just unhook the sensor and plumb the stock ones back together. Use the DSX fitting or try the fuel line above. I'm going to try that one the bent fuel line. It looks OEM
  21. It's right behind the main muffler, maybe 6" form it. You can't miss it if you just crawl up under there and look.
  22. I have headers with no cats, then magnaflow 12909 3.5 in and 3.5 out. I cut the flapper valve out as soon as I tuned out the AFM years ago. I just cut the rear resonator off myself and left it dumped over the rear axle. I find this is a really good combo with lots of volume at WOT but quiet at cruising speed with no drone. Before I had headers. I had the 12909 muffler, no flapper valve and the rear resonator cut off. This was only slightly louder than stock with this muffler but much deeper. But I knew I was adding headers with a catless Y pipe later. And knew from my last truck that would wake it up alot. The stock Y pipe has three cats in it. This makes it to quiet.
  23. 2.5 leveling kit and 1-1/2" body lift. Vision rockers 22x12 with -51 offset. 33" tires. Little man likes to act like he's driving dad's truck.
  24. Just did this last weekend on my 2014 L86 and I left the stock wires. They don't hit anywhere.
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