JONBLARC7

I have head,cam, forged pistons plus all the bolt-ons in the that combo. It's will blow the tires off 1-2. But it won't chirp the tires like my wifes Scat Pack or her old SRT8. Once it looses traction it's gone and the tires just start spinning. I set the trans to shift harder at one point but in the 6l80e it just feels like it's going to break sometime.

I just rebiult my L86 alittle over a year ago. It already had head cam from and stuck lifter. Then rod bear 1 and 2 ate them selfs. Now it's heads cam forged pistons. 1. I replace radiator because it shares the oil cooler. And oil cooler lines 2. Oil pump and pick up tube, If you pull the pick up tube out of the pan the new one needs to be press in at the machine shop. Learned that the hard way. 3. Deleted vacumm pump it was fool of metal. 4. lifters and trays even though they only had 50K miles on them. 5. machine shop clean and assimbled the short block with new bearings, crank, and pistons. Reused 6 of the old rods. They only charged 500$ bucks for labor and it was well worth it.

Damn I didn't know they where that expensive

Mind if I ask how much you paid for the Y pipe. I have one under the house I could let go since the way my exhaust is now. It can never go back on this truck.

Yes, I still use the older cable model but that one will work.

I would just get HP tuner your self and change the shift points. That's not that complicated and there are plenty of video's on youtube to show you how to do it. And you can always ask on here and get some answers.

I would think about a new radiator and oil cooler lines. The radiator has the oil cooler built into it. I replaced mine when I lost two rod bearings.

Since you have to take the brake vacuum pump of anyway. Go ahead and buy the pulgs and delete it. So you don't have to worry about it going out and sending metal through the engine.

I beleive his is a 5.3 with the 6L80e, mine is same trans just with the 6.2.

Tow mode will still work just as it did before unless you go in and change it to. I still use tow mode when hauling heavy. If I just have a jet ski or empy trailer I don't use my tow mode. I don't want it shifting to high under a heavy load. My truck shifts around 6,300 rpms at wide open trottle.

I'm with Newdude. Just because you changed the coils and wires doesn't mean you fixed all possible missfire problems. If the cat is bad it's because of a missfire. The cat is down stream of the engine and probable not cause of a missfire. I will make it run rough but not cause a specifice miss fire in 3 and 5 only. You need to go get a cheap scanner and read your codes again. It could be an injector which is common. And pray it's not a lifter.

I used these video's more than I expected when rebiulding my L86 so thank you. I've done heads and cam with DOD delete. Then 50K miles later a complete rebiuld with Diamonds pistons because of 2 spun rod bearings. The one mistake I saw is you don't need an alingment tool for the crank seal. It's not like older LS motor's. The block has alingment dows for the front cover.

Not sure if this is it. But check just above the muffler. There is a heat shield that can come lose and flap in the wind at cruising speeds. I happen to me when I put my 1.5" body lift on. There was more wind getting up under the truck and making it tap the bottom of the cab. I couldn't get the video to load. I have the same setup on my truck but now I have forged pistons.

Problem with injector swap is. You have to pull all the injectors on that rail at the same time. Then put all new O rings back onto each injector. And that is a huge pain in the ass. I've done it a couple time on my truck. If want to go that route let me know and I have a really good video saved on how to do the seals without any speacial tools.

The valve spring on my failed at 120K miles but like you said it didn't drop the valve. So it was actually a esay fix once I got the truck towed back to my house.

I had one in mine for a short time. It didn't give me any performance gaines at all. It's felt like a stock 6l80 converter and even when I tried to stall it up on the brake it didn't seem to stall any higher. I don't have any logs to prove that it didn't simply because I don't 4x4 lunch my truck alot. When my trans went out I just let them put in a similar stock stall converter that they had in stock and would warranty. Mine went out last year and parts where hard to get and I need my truck back fast. But yes it does work. You just use three of the 6 holes to bolt it up.

Done it more than once on my truck and never had a problem. If you search the corrvette forums, they say the same thing.

agreed

Here is mine

Are you a 5.3 or 6.2??? I have a magnaflow 12909 on mine with no cats and headers and it sounds great with zero drone. But it's a 3.5 in and 3.5 out so it works really good in place of the stock muffler. I know a guy over on performancetruks.net that just bought a used 6.2 exhaust set up for his 5.3 and put the magnaflow 12909 in the stock mufflers place for alot cheaper that those other brands and you get a 3.5" exhaust.

I've had the head off twice on my L86. Once for the stuck lifter and the last time for the rebiuld becasue of the spun rod bearing. While it can be done in the engine without dropping the oil pan. If you have the time and a stand. It is much easier just to pull the motor since everything you need to get the motor out is already off. I'm real bad at thinking "I can save time by not doing all the steps." and in the long run I end up fighting something that should be easy to get to. If I just removed everything.

Glad you got it back together. It seem the 8 bolts holding the bell housing would have been easier.

Pull the motor. If your 4x4 it's going to be more of a pain to drop the pan than it is to pull the motor. You already got everything you need off to get the motor out.

I replaced mine on my L86 on the engine stand but i don't see why you couldn't do it in the truck. If your using a new oil pump there is no need for alingment tools. The new pump seats to the crank. Just make sure you have a good seal between oil pan and the bottom of the oil pump. So the O ring on the front of the pan for the pick up tube doesn't suck in air.

I can't help you with the why but I have had mine off more than once and re-used the same ones with no problems.