Everything posted by JONBLARC7
Problem with injector swap is. You have to pull all the injectors on that rail at the same time. Then put all new O rings back onto each injector. And that is a huge pain in the ass. I've done it a couple time on my truck. If want to go that route let me know and I have a really good video saved on how to do the seals without any speacial tools.
The valve spring on my failed at 120K miles but like you said it didn't drop the valve. So it was actually a esay fix once I got the truck towed back to my house.
I had one in mine for a short time. It didn't give me any performance gaines at all. It's felt like a stock 6l80 converter and even when I tried to stall it up on the brake it didn't seem to stall any higher. I don't have any logs to prove that it didn't simply because I don't 4x4 lunch my truck alot. When my trans went out I just let them put in a similar stock stall converter that they had in stock and would warranty. Mine went out last year and parts where hard to get and I need my truck back fast. But yes it does work. You just use three of the 6 holes to bolt it up.
Done it more than once on my truck and never had a problem. If you search the corrvette forums, they say the same thing.
Are you a 5.3 or 6.2??? I have a magnaflow 12909 on mine with no cats and headers and it sounds great with zero drone. But it's a 3.5 in and 3.5 out so it works really good in place of the stock muffler. I know a guy over on performancetruks.net that just bought a used 6.2 exhaust set up for his 5.3 and put the magnaflow 12909 in the stock mufflers place for alot cheaper that those other brands and you get a 3.5" exhaust.
I've had the head off twice on my L86. Once for the stuck lifter and the last time for the rebiuld becasue of the spun rod bearing. While it can be done in the engine without dropping the oil pan. If you have the time and a stand. It is much easier just to pull the motor since everything you need to get the motor out is already off. I'm real bad at thinking "I can save time by not doing all the steps." and in the long run I end up fighting something that should be easy to get to. If I just removed everything.
I replaced mine on my L86 on the engine stand but i don't see why you couldn't do it in the truck. If your using a new oil pump there is no need for alingment tools. The new pump seats to the crank. Just make sure you have a good seal between oil pan and the bottom of the oil pump. So the O ring on the front of the pan for the pick up tube doesn't suck in air.
Very nice cars but if something goes wrong very expensive to fix and hard to work on. I was thinking ZL1 either generation but perfer 6 gen since I know the egine well from this damn truck. Or V2 CTSV manual, 6gen SS and do heads, cam, pistons boost. And C6 ZO6 with bolt ons and heads cam.
The plan is to get a 2500 with basic mods, tune and exhuast and use it to pull the Wakeboat and Razor. And buy some kind of sport car as a toy to do cam, heads and full bolt ons. I just can't make up my mind what car LOL.
They all suck at this point. My truck I bought at 90K something miles and it has been nothing but problems. My old 2008 denali with the old 6.2 had 180K and never had one problem but some lady totaled that one for me. This 2014 L86 6.2 has had 1. Lifter fail, so cam and ported heads. Not that mad about that one becasue I wanted a cam anyway LOL. 2. Vacum pump 3. Cracked AC condensor 4. HPFP 5. Cracked radiator 6. Upper ball joints both sides. It has a lift so not mad. 7. Both front wheel bearings. Not mad at changing them becasue of my wheels. But I am mad about how much more they cost than the older ones and seem to go out faster. I had the same lift and wheel and tire set up on my last truck. The wheel bearings seem to last longer. 8. Motor mounts HUGE pain in the A$# 9. Spun rod bearing on 1 and 2. So I pulled the engine, new crank, Oil pump, Oil cooler, forged Diamond pistons, and bearings plus C5-R timing chain and what every else. 10. Then 1200 miles later trans. I did all the work myself. Since I have owned this truck for almost 5 years now. I have driven my dads old toyota avalone almost a total of one year during these 5 years. While I worked on my truck. I took me 5 months to get all the parts for the engine rebiuld last winter. I keep looking at different brands but they all have problems. Raptor and Regular F150 Ecoboost have cam phaser problems Ram 1500 still have lifter issues. But would love to get a TRX and maybe on the list next year for a used one. Ram 2500 trans problem and the 2019 and newer 2500's have a CP4 fuel pump. I just don't under stand why company's keep using a CP4's. But they are at the top of my list of new truck in a Mega Cab F250 2015 and newer CP4 again and they are crazy expensive even used. Duramax 2011-2016 CP4 Duramax 2017 to new emisions stuff and it's getting really hard and expensive to delete.
If your doing all this work anyway and the motor is out. Why wouldn't you just swap cams and delete the AFM lifters. I did that on my L86 at 120K and was very reliable until it spun the connecting rod bearing on 1 and 2 LOL this winter. But now it's got forged pistons too.
Scoll down to post #61. I'm JonblarC7 on there too. You'll see how I used a socket flip around on a extention to figure out the Top dead center of the lobe. This how I measured for the lash cap after my cam install. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-tech-performance/4004454-how-to-installing-a-fuel-pump-lash-cap-in-an-lt1-and-checking-for-proper-clearances-3.html
I lost mine at 125K miles. I bought the truck with 90K miles on it bone stock. I immediately hooked up my HP tuners and removed AMF only. And didn't touch any other part of the tune to see if I would loose any MPG. Drove it that way a month and the MPG didn't change at all. Now i was runing bigger tires so It would ever stay in V4 mode. Then I enabled E85 and that all that was done to the truck until it lost a lifter. They are going to fail and there is nothing you can do about it.
I wouldn't do all that work to still risk losing a lifter.
I'm not sure about BTR but with TExas speed they just spec a higher stage 5.3 cam for the 6.2. On my truck when I called them to talk about the stage one 6.2 cam. They told me it was to big of a cam for a truck with a stock stall. So they had me buy there stage 2 L83 cam. It's a 218/226 .635 .635 112 lsa It's pulls hard. What size is the L83 BTR cam?
Very nice build. I have the same TSP cam in my L86 with some porting on my heads. I hope to have boost soon but I just had to pull the engine mysellf from two spun rod bearings. So I had to spend my boost money on pistons and rebiulding the engine. It's almost back together. It's just hard to get parts right now. But hey now I have a new crank with Forged Diamond pistons on stock rods. I'm curious how you like that cam with boost?
Cam is right. Go get some Permatex Ultra Grey from the parts store. Just make sure you clean off the old pan really good first. Use brake cleaner and a razor blade. I'm putting my motor back together right now so I'm going through this too. If your going that deep and doing it your self. YOu might as well do a DOD delete and a cam. All your lacking is the removing the head bolts basiclly.
I would think you need to go to a stand only ECU. People have done it with camaro's and corrvette's but I'm pretty sure it's done with a stand only ECU. Just becasue the LS is port Injection and LT is Direct Injection Why not just do Forged pistons and rods in a L86 with boost it could be over 1000 rwhp on porblem. And be much cheaper. Or you could do what I was just forced to do. I put drop in Diamond forged pistons for 950 bucks on stock rods. They say the stock rods are good for 900 rwhp. The stock pistons are the weak point. Even at 800 rwhp it will never hook on the street.
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