JONBLARC7

I think it’s more in the 120 range but yes they do go out. But with my tires I wouldn’t go 120. No numbers because it was remote tuned for the cam. Then I added headers intake and Wideband later and made the adjustments my self. It runs good though, my wife has a Scat Pack Charger with the 6.4. I raced her to 70 the other day only Launching in 2wd and had her by a truck until we let out. That’s with 33 mud tires and 22x12 rims.

So it's not going out but the people you talked to told you. You need to get a new converter for basic bolt-ons. If that's true you need to talk to new people!!!! I have all that plus a cam and heads and still use the stock converter.

Yea I'm tuning it my self so I'm targeting 1.135 in PE which is .88 Lambda. I usually hang right around .87 to .88 in a pull. I still need to clean up my VE table alittle.

Good deal I just want people to know and double check by logging before you go ripping around. Obviously something when wrong with my line when I heated it up and bent it out straight. .93 lambda might hurt something

I tired the line post earlier again but I spun around the top fitting so the tank line came in from the drivers side door. Something must be pinched or it shrunk when I heated it up to straighten it out. With the line added it makes my WOT go lean. Around .91 to .93 lambda, Then I can come right back home take the line off and go for a log again and it goes right back to where it should be around .87 lambda. This is all checked with my wideband. So be careful. The Russell fitting didn't have this problem but they failed on my after two years. So I'm going to go back to that style and just use the more expensive DSX fitting. You can't go by your STFT or LTFT because it doesn't reference those during WOT pulls. That's why the STFT go to 0% as soon as the truck goes into PE.

Thanks I was thinking about it last night and maybe one of the clips on the top of the fuel tank that hold the soft line in place was pinching that line. I'll hook it up again and spin the soft fuel line around like you have it and log again.

Here is how I had the line bent. If it’s not the new fuel line I guess I could of been punching the flexible fuel line coming off the fuel tank. But don’t believe that’s it. If you logs come back fine. I’ll dig into it deeper.

You could be 100% right. Because like I said the way I bent the line wasn’t quite like yours. I didn’t realize you spun the line from the tank around 180 degrees. just wanted to let you know. Mine was being pinched or blocked somewhere.

Confirmed at lunch that the line was causing a restriction. I removed it and just plug the fuel lines back into there stock spot and my fuel trims went back to the way it was before. I'm going to go with the DXS fitting that is straight instead. I never had a restriction with the Russell fitting that where straight. So I'm going to go back to something like that.

Have you logged you fuel trims after adding this fuel line. After my Russell fittings failed I decided to use this line. But I didn't from memory remember you flipped the fitting coming from the tank. So my sensor it hanging out over the drive shaft. But it shouldn't flow much different than how you have it set up. I've been dialing in my spark since I already had my MAF and VE fueling dialed in pretty good. After the only thing I did to the truck last night was I added that fuel line. Now under WOT my fuel trims read much leaner. At idol and cruising it's fine but I think it's causing a bottle neck at WOT. My MAF error went from -1 to -2 to 8 to 10 and the wideband confirms it. I'm usually around .86 lambda and before I noticed it was lean I was at .95. Not good for WOT I'm going to go out and take it off a log again and see if it goes back to the way it was be for.

You need to remove the Flex Fuel Sensor part. It's just a rear line. Here you go https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-original-equipment-front-fuel-supply-hose-mpn-23171534.html

Just wanted to update this thread. Don't use the Russell fittings that I originally used. (the blue colored fitting). They will FAIL, mine did after two years of being on the truck. This weekend I went to unhook my boat for the truck and it would hardly run. When I opened the drivers side door it sounded like a shower under my truck. When I cycled the key to the on position but didn't start it. I was spraying 40 psi of fuel on to the ground. Luckily I wasn't running E85 at the time so I was able to just unhook the sensor and plumb the stock ones back together. Use the DSX fitting or try the fuel line above. I'm going to try that one the bent fuel line. It looks OEM

It's right behind the main muffler, maybe 6" form it. You can't miss it if you just crawl up under there and look.

I have headers with no cats, then magnaflow 12909 3.5 in and 3.5 out. I cut the flapper valve out as soon as I tuned out the AFM years ago. I just cut the rear resonator off myself and left it dumped over the rear axle. I find this is a really good combo with lots of volume at WOT but quiet at cruising speed with no drone. Before I had headers. I had the 12909 muffler, no flapper valve and the rear resonator cut off. This was only slightly louder than stock with this muffler but much deeper. But I knew I was adding headers with a catless Y pipe later. And knew from my last truck that would wake it up alot. The stock Y pipe has three cats in it. This makes it to quiet.

2.5 leveling kit and 1-1/2" body lift. Vision rockers 22x12 with -51 offset. 33" tires. Little man likes to act like he's driving dad's truck.

Crazy how much the DOD delete changed from the L86. I had to look at the pictures a couple time because the valley looked nothing like my L86 when I did my cam and heads. I have the 218/226 TSP 5.3 cam in my 2014 L86 6.2 with the 6 speed 3.42's. I love it.

What gearing comes in the new 6.6???

Know way I know of but it’s not hard to pull the drivers side valve cover and take a peak. Just leave the coils on the valve cover and pull the plug wires off the coil. Then it’s like 6 or 8 bolt to take it off. The cover on top of the valve cover just pops off

Ask me how I know

Correct but if you have an early 2014 L86 with stock springs beware running it that high. They had problems with valve springs breaking. They had yellow paint on them. They later switched to the valve spring with blue paint that was updated design.

Nice if you did a cheap E85 conversion like I did. You would be in the 430 maybe 440 range.

Mind if I ask what rpm are you shift at WOT? I’m trying to get mine to shift at 6200

Oh and I have my idol set to 735 and it feels stable. I tried it lower at like 685 or something but it wasn’t stable at low speed on off throttle situation. And would stall if you where try to back into a parking spot on a steep hill if you had to get on and off the throttle a bunch

I have the same cam in my 2014 L86. I had the head ported and a valve job by a local shop while I had them off. I never dynoed it but if feels like it pick up all over. I was just working on my 1-2 and 2-3 shift points and it was showing I was spinning all the way through 1st with 50% throttle applied. This is with 115 pounds worth of 22x12 wheels and 33” tire. i just pulled my 6800 pound wakeboat home yesterday and it holds gears better than the stock cam. So it doesn’t lose any torque.

Everything still working fine with your Vacuum pump deleted????