I think that your rear end ratio and the engine power will limit you right before then. The old police tahoes had 5.3l with 3.08 rear ends and would do 139. The new 2021 police models have 5.3l with 3.23 ratios and show 130 as a top speed. I'd be interested in seeing what yours will do when removed. I'm getting my WAMS deal in the mail soon.
So... I snuck an order in under the old webpage (I won't go too much into it because I see that it has changed), and now I see it is different. I read through all of the directions and instructions... and nothing looks the same now as it did then. Can you give me an overview of how this is going to work now? You can email me if you would prefer. Order #: 17413
My 19 crew cab 4x4 stops at 112... I just want to do 125. My diff is 3.24. Police Tahoes are 3.08 with shorter shafts... but there is nothing special about their DS versus a regular Tahoe. I'll take my chances in the 120s, and will gladly post pictures of any carnage.
Got some about three months ago... best addition to my truck that I have made. I ripped the factory running boards off within a few minutes of the truck arriving in my driveway. I hate how they kill ground clearance and hold mud and dirt. These solve both of those problems just fine. I went without any for over a year, until I lifted the truck 2" and then I really needed some. Money well spent!
I pulled mine off. My thinking is that I see 2" blocks that are shorter on the front side to keep a correct drive shaft angle, and my 1.5" spacers were equal, so I removed that shim and that gave it a kind of front angle that it otherwise would not have.
My 5.3 had the same little "wedge shim".
So... if I used the supplied MotoFab u bolts and torqued them to 120... even though spec is to 55 and then 130 degrees..... is that bad? is something horrible going to happen over time? I have a nearly perfect memory, and I know that when we did my buddy's truck in 2014 that the instructions to his kit said to torque to 120, so that is what I did on mine in 2020.
Same... Pried off the red parts, then got the silver bases un-tabbed and then pressed in new ones. Be sure to know each tab location and press along until you hear a positive "click" from each one. On the rear, put down some masking tape top, bottom or both with sharpie dots where the letters start and stop. Took me longer to heat up and fishing line off the red rear emblems and clean up the adhesive than it took to do anything else.
Is the "GMC" on the tailgate on there with tape, or are they bolted in? I have the fancy double tailgate if that makes a difference. I am looking to take everything off but the GMC in the grille and the badges up by the mirrors... Thanks for the help.
Yes. All that I can think is that mine may have been a little off in one way, (I didn't check it before I installed the kit) and this one just moved it the other way, but still within spec. This does not mean that you can get away with not checking it, or that yours will do the same.
First time that I ever noticed it was the first trip out to the ranch. Scared the crap out of me, thought I had a snake hissing at me under my truck for a second, then realized it sounded too mechanical. As has been said, fuel pump priming.
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