AJ Sullivan

My issue would be that they are treating you like an idiot. A wire carrying electricity cannot have the electricity stopped by kinking or "pinching" the wire. Electricity don't give a damn. If that truly was what caused the money light to come on, then it was not "pinched", it was severed. They are talking about it like it is a washer fluid hose or something. I would not be worried about them splicing it. If the ever splice fails, then the money light will come on again, and then they will replace the harness or the whole shutter assembly.

My Sierra with the 5.3 and the 8 speed rough shifts 1-2 and sometimes 2-3 like it is getting paid extra to do it. So, there goes any theory about the GMCs being better. And yes, I had the "fluid update" done to it around 60k miles in March of 2021. Zero change at all. Pisses me right off.....

I installed a howler siren on my truck between the rails just under the radiator. I haven't looked too hard, but I bet you could fab a tray that goes all the way across and holds a battery, even if sideways. I will have a challenge because I have a howler siren under there, but most of you should have no problem. Pull that plastic shield off and start looking around for mounting holes and placement. I might get a wild hair and start poking around next week, if I am bored.

I have 55k on my 2019. I had back glass leak, and the parking assist has suddenly stopped working, like "light on the button is off and will not come on when I click it" not working. Other than that, no complaints.

I have had mine for about 18 months now, and I love them. I have had them partially extend into rocks off road and they just stop and then retract as usual once the door is closed. I wouldn't use them as rock sliders, though. Well worth the money.

I have a 19 CCSB 5.3L 4WD with a 3.23 rear and 20" rims that came with Bridgestone AT S rated tires. It was limited to 112. I did a limiter delete program and the truck will now do 130, barely. 128-129 if there is even a slight breeze for a headwind. It has T rated tires, and I can state, without any reservation, that the truck can do 125-130 for upwards of 30 minutes without the tires blowing or the drive shaft going kaboom. Before anyone freaks out, this truck is used as a patrol vehicle.

I had a 1.5" lower spacer and it was pretty close to the front driveline. I would not want to try a 2". I ended up getting AT4 length Bilsteins and lifting the front 2" that way, and then decided I did not like the look of a leveled truck and did a 2" on the rear with AT4 length bilsteins. Ends up looking like a chromed out AT4. If your question is whether to go top or bottom, I would recommend top.

I use seatbelt extenders to be able to get in the truck with a duty belt on. Also has the added benefit of knocking off the bitching betty seatbelt reminder when off road or otherwise not buckled. I use the shortest 3" ones and that works GREAT.

YES!!! Mine are properly adjusted. I think that it is the headlight design how it "looks" like the top and middle banks of lights are on so Individuals of Questionable Intelligence (IQIs) think that both my lows and highs are on and decide that I need to be informed or educated about the status of my lights. I, in turn, decide to inform and educate them that there is a third bank of lights below those and what the actual high beams on a 2019+ Sierra look like. I also have the "all on" high beam mod so they get all of the lumens that my truck can bring to bear when I pull back on the stick. Not being a dick, just educating IQIs. I have noticed that it has stopped lately. I got beamed about every 4 hours of night driving back when these trucks were brand new. I think that many people have learned that the stack of lights are just the lows. Might also be the pandemic where people have bigger things to worry about than some guy with lights on his truck... such as if the guy in the truck is wearing a mask while driving alone.

2019 Sierra sliding glass with 54k miles on it. Around 15k I noticed a line down the inside of the glass. The next time that I took it to a carwash I turned around and watched and sure enough 2-3 drops came in and ran down the glass leaving mineral deposits each time. Looked up the previous gen truck's GM repair order that was basically "caulk the hell out of the top of the glass", and took that to the dealer. They got it done and it has been 18 months now without one single problem. Mexico build early March of 2019.

I can relate to the "If it's too loud, you're too old" comment. I am only 38, and up until 4-5 years ago, it was all about how loud can I make it. These days, I appreciate the quiet. Another issue is that I end up doing a lot of business calls in my truck these days, so having a loud exhaust would be less than desirable.

I got some Sylvania LED Daylight bulbs from VatoZone almost exactly two years ago when I first got my truck and HATED the incan bulbs too. Says "for offroad use only", but I have not had any trouble.

I disconnected the sway bar, steering linkage, and unbolted the UCA to do mine. I was going from SLT X31 spec shocks to 5100s designed for the AT4, with the spring seat set on the middle setting, so I knew that I needed some room to work. Came out great, and gave me just a hair over 2" of lift on the front once they settled. Also did a 2" block and AT4 spec rear shocks at the same time, and it made a noticeable difference in ride quality, and of course the 2" helps at the ranch offroad.

Has anyone with a T1 CCSB deleted the speed limiter and run it up? How high did you get it and how did it feel? I am still waiting on mine to get done.

Specs on the truck? Rear ratio, and so on? Mine will be gone soon too.

Right... the 4WD models are limited to 121.

I think that your rear end ratio and the engine power will limit you right before then. The old police tahoes had 5.3l with 3.08 rear ends and would do 139. The new 2021 police models have 5.3l with 3.23 ratios and show 130 as a top speed. I'd be interested in seeing what yours will do when removed. I'm getting my WAMS deal in the mail soon.

So... I snuck an order in under the old webpage (I won't go too much into it because I see that it has changed), and now I see it is different. I read through all of the directions and instructions... and nothing looks the same now as it did then. Can you give me an overview of how this is going to work now? You can email me if you would prefer. Order #: 17413

The owner of Banks is an OCD mofo, and anything that they make has been thought out and engineered to the hilt. I would trust anything that they make without question.

My 19 crew cab 4x4 stops at 112... I just want to do 125. My diff is 3.24. Police Tahoes are 3.08 with shorter shafts... but there is nothing special about their DS versus a regular Tahoe. I'll take my chances in the 120s, and will gladly post pictures of any carnage.

Got some about three months ago... best addition to my truck that I have made. I ripped the factory running boards off within a few minutes of the truck arriving in my driveway. I hate how they kill ground clearance and hold mud and dirt. These solve both of those problems just fine. I went without any for over a year, until I lifted the truck 2" and then I really needed some. Money well spent!

I pulled mine off. My thinking is that I see 2" blocks that are shorter on the front side to keep a correct drive shaft angle, and my 1.5" spacers were equal, so I removed that shim and that gave it a kind of front angle that it otherwise would not have.

My 5.3 had the same little "wedge shim".

Just under 10k on a Motofab 2" top puck up front and a 1.5" on the rear. No issues.

So... if I used the supplied MotoFab u bolts and torqued them to 120... even though spec is to 55 and then 130 degrees..... is that bad? is something horrible going to happen over time? I have a nearly perfect memory, and I know that when we did my buddy's truck in 2014 that the instructions to his kit said to torque to 120, so that is what I did on mine in 2020.