LDM

Keep editing your posts so you can try to look smarter. Hate to break it to you yet again, but numerous manufacturers do have oil consumption amounts that are considered within tolerance on the engines. Subaru considers 1 quart of oil burned within 1000 -1200 miles to be acceptable. BMW considers 1 quart in 600 -700 miles to be acceptable. You seem to have a big problem with understanding the difference between "what you find acceptable on the internet" is the same as what actually is true in reality. But then I would expect little else from someone pretending consumer reports is "scientifically accurate" data.

No real surprise that you would, its all you have. It shows how pathetic you really are with this entire argument. You haven't any real data, just made claims that "scientific consumer reports" data agrees with you. And the reality is that it really doesn't. You're entire item here is trying to pretend you are right, then being confronted with real data such as the Tacoma recall, having no real response for it, and then claiming "emotional and mental fragility." What are you, 12? Maybe you would like to post some real information like I did. But I'm not going to hold my breath on that one. You've been incorrect about everything from the beginning and I'm just sitting here laughing at you.

Of course you would. You're so much smarter than everyone else and feel the need to tell us all just how smart you are. If you had half the intelligence you think you had, you wouldn't be making these claims. But hey, feel free to tell us more about all the data you claim to have. All you've done is hand wave about consumer reports and name call, then go back and edit your post so it isn't there anymore. 700K+ failed frames from lack of QA is hardly the first issue with Toyota trucks or any of their other vehicles.

Ah, and now we have name calling and hand waving. You really should go back to whatever Japanese car forum so you can all drink the koolaid and tell each other how right your are about your purchases. Sorry you can't handle reality.

I have a reliable truck. That's why I bought a 2018 GMC Sierra and not a Toyota Tundra. You clearly have no real idea what you are talking about as consumer reports has been found to lie in their recommendations numerous times. You should consider doing some real research rather than just relying on "my internet scientific searches" that you think mean something. The fact that you are still here trying to convince anyone that your nonsense is "facts" is pretty hilarious. The fact that you've resorted to pretending I'm somehow "emotionally fragile" goes to show how foolish you really are.

Nice job editing your post with your extra nonsense. If the QA on American truck is so substandard, why is it that Toyota ended up having to replace the frames of 700K Tacomas made from 2005 to 2011? This is one big abnormality that you seem to want to just gloss over. Its also hardly the only problems with these trucks or the Tundra. I'm not making any excuses for American vehicles, you are the one making excuses for the ones made by the Japanese and it just doesn't hold up in reality. Like I said, I can give you plenty more examples of problems with Japanese vehicles as well as personal stories of people with them. There are numerous issues with the Tundra regardless of what you want to believe. Keep on reading consumer reports and drinking that koolaid if it makes you feel better.

So Los Angeles, California then? Like I said, this doesn't exist where I live and doesn't exist in 99% of the rest of the country either.

If you believe the nonsense that comes from consumer reports, you shouldn't be trying to tell other people they are incorrect.

I can give you plenty of examples of problems with Japanese vehicles. This is the same nonsense by people who buy foreign cars so they can pretend they are more reliable. They aren't. How about all the Toyota trucks with frame rust issues that required full frame replacements? Or the issues with Toyota cars that would just accelerate on their own with no input? Or the various sludging issues with certain Toyota engines? And that's just Toyota. Not sure why we need 1 post wonders like this coming here to try to pretend they bought a "quality" Japanese vehicle. My 6.2 doesn't burn any oil yet I can tell you of at least 3 people I know with various Toyota trucks that burn over 1 quart ever 2.5K with the 5.7L engine. My answer to them? Go buy a real truck instead of a Toyota.

And where is this at? Car charging isn't subsidized at all where I live. You pay the same amount for your electricity at home regardless of what you use it for. Even if it is subsidized now in certain areas, it won't be later. It won't be possible with all the money that will be needed to upgrade the infrastructure to support it.

I didn't lose any of those things either one mine, the engine would just die out. It only seemed to happen while turning, which was also strange. I spent some time cleaning up the grounds and making sure they were all clean and secure. None of that seemed to help so I ended up just getting the entire negative battery cable assembly. After that I haven't had a single issue. I know yours is going to be a bit more complicated due to your hybrid setup. But considering that a negative battery cable assembly is only around $80, I would do that first. Not sure if it was a bad batch of these or what but I'm not the only one that has done this and had it fix weird issues like this. I even ohmed out the cable and it didn't show any different than the new cable. Maybe the sensor was causing the issue? I'm not really sure.

My 2018 would just randomly die while turning for no apparently reason. Ended up being the negative battery cable. After replacing it in the summer of last year I haven't had an issue since. I know your truck has a lot more going on with the swap but I would start with the grounds and then swap that if it still does it. Seems like there are a lot of issues with the factory negative battery cables and sensors on the 14-19 trucks.

Had a 95 Tahoe that was close. Finally blew a head gasket at 235K driving on the highway one day. I could have pulled the engine and fixed it but the entire back area was nothing but rust so I decided it was a better choice to finally get a new truck instead. I certainly hope to keep my 2018 for 250K+, that way I don't have to buy another truck for 30+ years.

That list is extremely out of date unfortunately. Both USCO gas stations in Pekin were closed and reopened with the E85 pumps removed over 10 years ago. The East Peoria Thorton's is the closest one to me and its a 20 minutes drive.

I also don't understand Illinois when it comes to E85. You would think we would have the same prices as availability as Iowa since we grow almost the same amount of corn. Nope. I live in a town with an ethanol plant and there isn't a single E85 station left here. We had 3 or 4 of them around 10+ years ago, now they are all gone and the closest pump is about 20 minutes away. Maybe I can get the plant to sell me some in a 55 gallon drum and just mix my own E85. Probably not given this states ridiculous alcohol laws.

Both my 2015 and my 2018 come on with this message every time its around freezing. Probably something in the PCM/BCM that might be able to be changed to stop it but no idea if anyone has found a way to reprogram it to turn it off. I just ignore it, especially when there is 10 inches of snow on the ground like this morning.

Not to mention where are all these people who live in cities in apartments planning on plugging in to charge their vehicles? Lots of people in large cities park on the street, having a car charger for every parking spot is going to cost a massive amount of money and time to build such infrastructure to support this. This all reminds me of back in the 80/90s when California was going to mandate emissions free cars for the entire state and GM came out with the EV1. It didn't work then and it isn't going to work now or 15 years in the future. GM ended up forcing every EV1 driver to return the cars and crushed them so they wouldn't have to support them. There are some people that an EV car will work for but for most people they just don't. Until you can charge the car up in the same time as an ICE vehicle anywhere and get the same range, most people won't be making an EV car purchase. Those that buy them now are generally very wealthy people who have multiple vehicles. Not to mention where all the power is going to come from to charge these things, as more than a few others in this threat have pointed out.

Mine was similar to this with the Moderna vaccine but the shivering was also with what I believe was a fever and a lot of sweating. Felt bad enough to have to take the day off work as I woke up about 5am with those symptoms. Felt fine later that day. Just got my 2nd shot this morning, hopefully it won't be as bad since my body has built up some resistance with the first vaccine. I work at a hospital and the results have been all over the place since we started back in mid-December. Some people have no reaction, others have mild or moderate symptoms like what I had. So far no severe reactions at all that they have reported, which is good. We have also moved on to the 1B stage with 65+ with health issues getting the vaccine first. Nothing major has been reported in those patients either.

Same issue on both my 2015 5.3 and 2018 6.2 Sierras. Mileage is off by 0.8 to 2.2, more accurate in the winter and less accurate in the summer. I had calculate every time I fill up just to see how far off it is. My 2018 is almost always 2.0-2.2 except in the winter, when its more like 1.3-1.5 off. I wish there was something the PCM/TCM/BCM programming that we could look at to see how it does the calculation and why it is so far off. Its almost as if the calculations is ignoring some portion of the fuel usage, like when idling while in drive or something.

Up thru 95 they came with the thermal style actuator. Had the same problem in my 95 Tahoe where the 4x4 would not engage due to the actuator not getting hot enough anymore. Since you already have to replace it, go with the newer electronic style actuator from the 96-99 trucks, they work much better than the old thermal style. I did this in my 95 Tahoe year ago and it was one of the better upgrades for that old truck. There used to be a good writeup online with all the part #s and walk thru but it seems like the link is broken these days. If I remember correctly you'll need to add a 12V ignition switched power to the new actuator.

TSB 18-NA-355 can be done in or out of warranty and has nothing to do with the bumper-to-bumper or powertrain warranty. Your dealer is lying to you if they are telling you otherwise. The TSB involves fully flushing the old fluid and using the new blue label Mobil 1 HP LV fluid. It probably does take around 20 quarts to do a full flush for this procedure. As far as fixing the issue, I had it done my truck last year around April due to the hard 1-2 shift when the fluid was cold. Fixed the issue immediately and haven't had a problem since.

This right here. The infrastructure for electric cars isn't there and it will cost billions to make it capable of handling the load required. Not to mention where is all this energy going to come from? Solar and wind? Those can't even supply what we now need, let alone what we will need when 90+% of the vehicles on the road are electric. Right now electricity is cheap in many areas but once everyone has to start paying for all that infrastructure and power plants, the costs will skyrocket. If people think $4-5 gas is expensive, wait until you are paying $1+ for a kWh of electricity for all your power needs at home and for your electric car. Those electric cars will cost more to buy and more to operate than anyone in this country is going to be willing to pay.

I've bought a lot of tires online over the years. I have 2 Camaros and it gets harder every year to find good quality tires in the size that they both use (245/50r16). Local places never have anything in stock other than cheap, Chinese made garbage tires that will never go on my vehicles. I've bought from Tire Rack before and just had to get new tires for my 94 Camaro this year. Ended up getting them from Walmart of all places, they had BFGoodrich GForce Sport COMP2 tires cheaper than anywhere else with free shipping. I'm sure getting tires for my truck won't be much of an issue when she finally needs them. Everyone seems to have a number of choices for 20" wheels these days.

You should have told them to check again. I had my oil cooler lines replaced under my powertrain warranty last year around May due to this same issue. Dealer did it without any issue and no cost to me.

Had a similar issue on my 2018, tried cleaning up the grounds, added an extra ground to the driver side from the battery terminal, neither of which did much. Ended up replacing the entire negative battery cable, which fixed the problem. Apparently there are issues with these cables that cause all these issues and replacing them is the only real fix.