brockhals

Has anyone seen a difference in using the premium DEF? Is it worth the cost difference?

you'd need to find the "door trigger" wire, or utilize the Dome Light wire. I found this online for a 2019, may be the same. Depending on the lights you are doing you may need to add in a relay to carry the amperage your lights may require. Left Front Door Trigger Gray or Pink (power window) - Driver Door Latch, green 10 pin plug, pin 1 Left Front Door Trigger 2 Gray (manual window) - BCM under driver dash, gray 26 pin plug, pin 25 Right Front Door Trigger Gray (power window) - Passenger Door Latch, green 10 pin plug, pin 5 Ri

I had that cover on my F250 and it was great, and dry! HAs anyone found a good solution with the multi pro tailgate to keep water out?

I can't speak to Cognito, but I've had two BDS lifts and they're great! Solid and they do stand behind their product. Are you thinking coil overs with the BDS? That brings the price in line with Cognito and you can always upgrade the UCAs if you wanted/needed to later.

Sharp truck! Identical to my 20 AT4.

I'd recommend getting it. I'm a proponent of the exclusive warranties, where they tell you what's not covered. These are essentially bumper to bumper type coverage less any wear and tear items. I had one on my F150 a few years back with the EcoBoost, I think it cost me $1,500 or so for a 5 year 100K mile plan and they easily lost money on it. I had a turbo go out at 40K that was a $1,700 repair, and I have a sunroof issue that was over $1,000, plus other more minor things over the years.~2K on what is likely a $70K+ vehicle is a no brainer for me.

How has the tint held up for you all? Just finding this and thinking about it, and curious on the long term since most of you have had it done for a year or so now.

I did 20% on the front doors which closely matches the rear. 35% on the windshield and can still see well at night. I also added a clear ceramic on the rear windows and sunroof to help with the FL heat.

Well, I ended up pulling the air bags off and just got a higher rise hitch as I just didn't like the change in ride when unloaded. Hopefully my family doesn't lower the tailgate when I'm hooked up!

No hardware bottoming out here. These mount where the bump stop is and then, separately, to the axle. I would have thought they'd be unnoticeable as well, but not the case unfortunately.

So I installed the Sumo Springs, and experienced as noted prior, that mostly fine ride but on a harsh bump you immediately know they're there. So I removed them and installed the Firestone airbags with the compressor setup, and same result with the min 5 psi in them! This really surprised me as I thought I wouldn't know they were there when aired down!! There is a bump coming in and out of my neighborhood so it's not like it will be occasional or avoidable...UGH, now what?

So here’s the dilemma, here trailer is level, truck is unloaded. Once the trailer is down, I’m sagging about 2.5” and the trailer isn’t level which can cause other issues. Hitch is a 1” rise and i know I can get a higher rise, but then I can’t open my tailgate (this barely clears as it is).

I've looked at those as well. So no impact to normal driving?

I'm running it as a 1" rise currently so a new hitch would certainly be an option, but any taller and I can't open my tailgate

I'm thinking about adding airbags to handle the tongue weight when towing my boat. With these low hitch locations I'm about 4" low to get the trailer level after squatting the truck (tongue is probably about 700 lbs or so, but the coupler is high mounted on the trailer too). I thought about getting a rise hitch to account for the difference and keep it and the truck level when towing, but then I can't open my tailgate. So, I'm hoping airbags will do the trick. My question - Say I need 70 psi to level the truck and trailer, if I leave that 70 psi in the bags at all times, will my ride suffe