Duramax3oh

Yes sir, sure am! Ben has been extremely responsive and helpful so far. I will have to look through your posts when I’m at the computer and have time. Do you have a build thread? I’m so interested to hear what you think of everything. This week has been quite successful. Was too slow moving on a few things but repositioned nicely and closed everything out for the weekend. Have the front coil overs covered now and 80% of the rear shocks earned and in the bank. LOL

After 2 months now with mine, here's my kind of advice if I had to choose between the two: 5.3 - would make the most sense if you don't really do that much driving and if it's just fairly quick and short trips throughout the city. If you don't tow anything and it's mainly just a city truck, you're best bang for your buck is likely the 5.3 3.0L - makes more sense if you're driving quite a bit, longer trips or good stretches on the highway. The gas mileage is simply awesome. I made a 700-mile run a couple weeks ago before I had to stop to fill up. It's a joy. If you do light-medium load towing, this would make the most sense because of the low end and consistent torque, it pulls extremely easy and gets better gas mileage while towing. Those are more of the practical matters. The other is "what do you want" which is a big part of owning truck. Some, the 5.3 V8 might be better, slap on some exhaust, etc... others (like myself) want that other kind of "it" factor that the Duramax diesel provides. It's just different. And I love it.

What have I done with my T1 today??? 1. Began the conversation towards ordering King 2.5 Coilovers 2. Began actively trading options to pay for the King Suspension, UCA's, and BFG KO2's After one day I am 12.4% closer to the full cost of upgrades (thank you put options). This is either going to be the sweetest free suspension upgrade and "level kit" ever... or it may become the most expensive. Wish me luck ?

Oh to add to my post above. I stuck about a 1.5” cut off of the sponge window seal onto the bracket of the power step. You can see the indention where it hits this really really dampens down the sound. It’s actually quite pleasant now ?

Ok so I spent some time under the truck today and figured out what my problem was. To recap: I was unsatisfied with two things. (1) was the loud clunk the steps made when folding back up under the truck and (2) there seemed to be another clunking sound on occasion when driving around. Usually at low speeds from a stopped position. Sounded like a baseball was loose in the bed for a couple seconds. The rear bracket of my steps are installed further back than others or what the instructions say. While I prefer this look and the symmetry to the front bracket, it creates an issue when hitting part of the frame underneath when it contracts back up. Not the Step hitting the rocker panel under the door like I first suspected but it’s the step bracket. My quick & easy short term fix was to use a section of Foam/Sponge Window Seal I had in the garage (~$5 from Lowe’s). see pics below, hope this can help some of you. Or caution others as they install theirs.

Didn’t want to start a new thread and I’ve had trouble finding this online. Does anyone know what the factory front coil spring rate/weighting is? I’m leaning towards the King coil overs for suspension upgrade and leveling. Coil options come at 600lbs (which I’m leaning towards) or 700lbs. Im just curious how they compare to factory stock oem rates, if they’re 600 lbs too or if it’s less. Thx!

This looks fantastic. I may have to do this myself!

https://realtruck.com/p/truxedo-truck-luggage-expedition-cargo-bag/

Sorry I can’t help but I’m looking forward to some info on this too. Mine aren’t overly loud but there is a decent “knock” sound when they go back up. When moving forward from a stop I can hear a little clunking sound but can’t figure out where from. The steps are on there solid. It’s only at low speed and not like they’re rattling around constantly.

Had another long road trip today on I-10 in Texas (flat drive). Made it 700 miles on the tank before pulling in to fill up with 23 gallons. Boy I cut it close. Was able to have cruise control on 70mph for around 80 miles straight. Got up to 31mpg over that time. ? Note: the “best” was on a previous trip going much slower.

ETA I don't know how to embed youtube videos but (it automatically does it!) came across this when I went down the ol' youtube-rabbit hole. Comments on the video appear to show people have had issues with the lift though. Really just posting for visuals and reference specs. I think the lift size/tire combo is really sharp looking - good clean, proportional, balanced look to it. 3" lift 295/55R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Agreed. If you're already about to pony up $1,295+, the marginal increase to go with a quality coilover set is a no brainer for me. I'm curious - what is the market like (if any) for selling the oem ranchos? Or an expected price to get for them?

http://www.buykingshocks.com/coilovers/index.html FYI this is the video I partly watched which is phenomenal for anyone wanting to just get better informed like me. This guy does a real good job of explaining things in other videos as well. It's a long video and you can click just below it to skip to different sections. I watched the Shock Options section and he shows some good examples.

Again thanks above on the info regarding coil overs (king/fox/icon)... This is why I take a lot of time thinking and doing research before big purchases, like a new truck or major suspension upgrade. I started with wanting Fox because that's what I've known - moved onto Icon - now I'm back onto Fox and King added (due to the valving which should be better on the street and at slower speeds vs. Icon ). I am correct on that, yes?! ? My issue with the Kings, and I know this sounds petty, but I just can't get past all the blue color. Like, I don't like it for me and my truck. I'm going for a very clean OEM-style look with largely Black some grey some silver/chrome on my truck overall. Today I learned that you can get some color changes done on the King parts but not the coil springs. Those will always be blue. This is because if you put the springs on and they're not the right specs you wanted, you can replace them no problem - just shipping. There was mention of taking the coils to an aftermarket shop and have them spray the springs the color of your liking. I would want them done in black. What's involved with taking them to a place to do this? With the springs compressing - are they even able to be sprayed or dipped in quality material where they won't flake off?? My problem is I can't do this install myself, so putting them on then taking them off then putting them back on is a no go for me. I ain't paying that much service costs!!

No, this is fantastic. Thank you for your input.

Setting cost and resale value aside.... since you're coming from a King setup, how would you feel about King/Icon/Fox coilovers on this vehicle (Silverado 1500)? I ask because I really want a better onroad suspension feel and help level the truck at the same time. I previously had a '17 Raptor and the suspension was just absolutely incredible. I would love a similar feel albeit those had 35" BFGs on 17" rims and I'll likely be at 33-34" BFGs on 20" rims on the Silverado. Would you suspect a significant feel difference due to less sidewall or am I just overthinking this too much. I'm really leaning towards the ICON 2.5 or FOX 2.5 coilovers when they're available for the 2020 model

I changed my phone holder to a magnetic one that’s more recessed than my last. PS - some of my pictures keep turning sideways like this and I can’t figure out how to rotate them! They are presented normally on my photo album but not when uploading. I’ve even rotated them on my phone trying get a one-up on this upload problem but that doesn’t work

I highly recommend it. Like you, I was getting better at remember but would forget occasionally. Not that it's really all that big of deal at the end of the day. But after installing this it's just a weird feeling - the best feeling I can equate it to is when your wife gives you a list of things to do and you actually get them done pretty quickly and cross them off your list and you're DONE (temporarily lol)... It took some effort but it really wasn't difficult. Just make sure you follow the instructions (there's a great video online) and use painters tape around as to not scratch any surfaces. I also used that opportunity to run a charging cable from the USB port up behind the dash and then it sneaks back out of the driver side a/c vent left of the monitor/screen. I have my phone holder attached to that vent so it makes it easy and hidden having a charging cord right there. I used this one based on recommendation for folks around here: https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/autostop-eliminators-for-gm-vehicles/products/2019-silverado-sierra-autostop-eliminator ETA - I just realized.. I have the 40/20/40 front bench which made it significantly easier to install. Having a full console adds a few steps - the video instructions he uses full console.

I'm ~2,300 miles into mine and still just absolutely love it. Very happy with the get up, the fuel mileage, the transmission, how quiet it is, but also how you still know it's a diesel. 10/10 would buy again. I have not had to do an oil change or add DEF yet. The only things I dislike about my truck have nothing to do with the engine choice but the design overall: 1. The auto-stop/start feature that has to default to on. I started getting used to clicking it off each time, but installed the eliminator where it defaults to its last setting (OFF!). Best aftermarket purchase easily, don't have to worry about that any more. It's akin to dealing with a squeeky closet door for a few months - taking 10 seconds to finally spray the hinges with WD40 - and then it's silent... and you're like "why the hell did I wait so long to do that". 2. I really wish the truck had entry handles/grab handles in the overhead liner above each of the 4 doors in addition to the handles they have in place now. I know that's overkill but I would add that if I could. 3. Shouldn't be complaining here b/c I easily get 600-700 miles per tank if I'm on a highway trip... but I wish the fuel tank was slightly larger than 24 gallons (i think?)... I don't need it bigger but heck. 4. I got the 40/20/40 front bench because I just love the front bench (it's different). I would change the cup holders on it where they were slightly larger... a good judge of cup holder size is being able to fit a bottle of wine in it (for reference use only....) and my smaller yeti rambler with leather sleeve fits awfully snug.

Looks great! What tires/size do you have on there?

Good question The instructions said to use second to last set of holes but some models don’t have those. Looks like you’re set at the 33” mark where I’m at 16”

1. Installed AMP power steps 2. Installed the Auto Stop eliminator which is amazing 3. While I had the front dash apart I ran my charging cord inside to hide it and out the a/c vent. Switched phone holder to a magnetic kind. So far so good

I feel like 20+mpg at a constant 80mph is great and I've never gotten that on previous trucks. Historically, the EPA testing for highway mpg reached a max speed of 60mph and averaged 48mph. I'm not sure if those speeds/testing have changed recently or not. Based on EPA testing conditions my 3.0 is exceeding their figures. ETA- mph

If cost is a significant factor I’d lean towards the 5.3. Purchase price is less, obviously, and dealers have a ton of them on the lot. It will be easier finding exactly what you want and negotiating, in my opinion. I have the 3.0 and absolutely love it. I got it mainly because of the superior MPG. It is super quick and a blessing on highway. Love the 10-speed paired with it. If you’re more of a gas guy and worried about get up why not look at the 6.2? It’s the same price as the 3.0 (granted premium fuel cost difference which maybe is why you ruled it out). It packs a punch so I hear. TLDR: go test drive each and see where your heart rests. The 3.0 is worth it for me but may not be for someone else.

I’m curious how does the factory 2” lift the rear? If it’s just a 2” block couldn’t that be replaced with a 1” block (or removed altogether) so you sit more level? i mean I feel like that would be the easiest solution instead of trying to raise the front even more