Thanks for taking the time to explain that, very informative. Luckily I won’t even really notice because I kind of baby my truck. But in hindsight I wish I would have looked into that and will be mentioning this at least to people looking to purchase one.
Can you explain this a little more please? I love the 40/20/40 front bench so I got that. Have Z71 off-road package but don’t think I’ve seen the Z71 diesel package. What’s the easiest way for me to see what gear option I have?
Thanks. I’m searching for the right UCAs and just can’t make up my mind
Now that’s a fine looking rig there! Did you go with aftermarket upper control arms or still using the stock/oem?
I added DEF for the first time yesterday at 4,025 miles. I had one full bar remaining and it didn’t come full from the dealer. It was a little over half full when I got it. I picked up Blue DEF from autozone. Did you guys know it’s not actually blue?
I got a Model 3 in 2018 when I was commuting 200 miles a day for a year straight. I know you said you’re in Jersey so not sure about electricity options. Here in Texas I changed companies to one that was running a special of “free nights”. So I’d just plug in the Tesla and she’d be fully charged by the time I woke up and left the next morning. Put 40,000 miles on her in 18 months and paid probably less than $10 total electricity during that time (occasional super charger stop). It was the best deal ever and the electric company hated me! but alas I stopped that commute, sold it and got back in a pick’em up truck.
My suspicion is that your current highway mileage is because of the tune you have... would that be accurate? Because real world if you get a new stock crew cab 6.2 I do not think you would be getting near those same mpg figures. So your question may change from comparing your current truck to: New 6.2L crew cab vs new 3.0L crew cab..... or keep your double cab and not get a crew cab. Because if you need a crew cab you've gotta give up your old truck. I know that seems obvious but when comparing the best option you gotta take that off the table. Unless an option is to just keep it. As far as the City mpg concern you have, my 3.0L definitely gets better than that but in my opinion its not really overly impressive. I don't keep a big eye on it because its very hard for me to determine "true" city mpg. I'm usually around the 17-18mpg level on my DIC but I also tend to sit in my truck and idle or keep it on parked quite a bit. So it's likely higher. I don't know the new crew cab 6.2L mpg figures but I would suspect they're slightly better City than yours but worse Hwy than yours. I will say my 3.0L is awfully quick, the torque and horsepower kick in IMMEDIATELY at like 1200 rpm. Granted, I don't pay attention to the accelaration/speed or care as much so to a more well informed driver they can really pick apart the differences much better than me. Don't underestimate the speed and quickness of the little 3.0L.... but with that said it's hard to beat the 6.2L V8 especially if you're more of a V8 guy. There's discussion on here regarding the two engine choices. 3.0L really does excel on the Highway and performs well in the city from a mpg standpoint. But there's lots of talk that a short commute in-the-city type of driving may not be good for this engine and how it's built. That the Gas engine would be better. Just giving you more to think about and not really helping solve your dilemma LOL. Definitely recommend going to give each a test drive because only you can decide if either meets your wants from an acceleration / speed standpoint. I got the 3.0L for Mileage purposes and am very pleased so far.
When using rear blocks, I believe most people use the 2" size which are more commonly found. My recommendation would be to determine how you want your truck to sit, i.e. what "stance" do you want it to have? Perfectly level front to back? Or the natural rake of the truck... or a smaller rake (rear end sits higher than front)? 1. Take measurements of the front and of the rear to determine the current difference. 2. Estimate the added lift of the front due to replacing the front coilovers. 3. Subtract the added front height from the desired rake to determine the size of the rear block to get. Example 1: The rear sits exactly 2" higher than the front but you want a perfectly level truck. The coilovers add exactly 2" to the front and so no rear block is needed. Example 2: The rear sits exactly 2" higher than the front, you want a smaller rake of 1". The coilovers add exactly 2" to the front so you need a 1" rear block. Example 3. The rear sits exactly 2" higher than the front and you want to keep the same rake. The coilovers add exactly 2" to the front so you need a 2" rear block. My truck does not have near as much rake as most others. So a 2.00-2.25" front "level" on mine and it would be sitting nose high which I absolutely despise. So where some people just add a front spacer and it's level, I would need to add a very small rear block to help it get level. I actually prefer a very small rake unlike most people so I either want the front lifter a smaller amount or would need to raise the rear more than most others would. That's just purely personal preference for how the truck looks/sits. As for measuring, I prefer to measure from the center of the wheel cap to the underside of the top of the wheel well above the wheel/tire. Measuring from street level to top of wheel well gives you a higher chance of flawed measurement comparison. The main culprit would be varied or changing tire pressure. If you change the tires and they're inflated differently than before you can misinterpret the amount of lift/level of the coilover. Which in turn could effect the size of rear block you need.
Because the likelihood of original failure is probably deemed fairly small. The mods added give you a return that outways the risk. Plus if there is a failure with that specific part, it's hopefully covered by that specific company. It just adds the number of parties you may "potentially" have to contact although it's unlikely you'll actually have to. The other side of "void warranty" discussion is to keep in mind you're worried about a small specific component of the overall truck. So even if "a" warranty was voided.... it's not the entire truck you lose the warranty to the engine, transmission, etc etc. It's a very silo'd compartmentalized problem. Unless you just do some really stupid stuff to your truck that blows the whole thing up.
These came today and I put them in. The instructions say to cut the part off the would go under the fabric storage part but I decided to keep it all one piece. The only part I had to cut was around where the jack is stored. Very easy and pleased with them!
Unless the 2-speed transfer case and hill descent is really important to you (which doesn’t sound like it), I wouldn’t worry about Z71 package. Look at aftermarket skid/protection plates and you can get higher quality. I love the 3.0L engine and am so happy I got it. I got the Z71 package because that’s what I had a decade ago and to match our Z71 Tahoe, and because I wanted 4x4 and it’s got the Z71 decal I like and am used to... I really am not impressed with the Rancho shocks and will be replacing them. I have <3,000 miles on them and would already have switched to Bilsteins if I wasn’t working towards doing a full coil over swap.
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