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Everything posted by Duramax3oh

  1. Absolutely love it. It is a nice firm ride that handles the road elements exactly how I wanted (speed bumps, pot holes, rough roads, railroad crossings, highway undulations, etc).
  2. Thank you. Set at full 2.0” lift for the 3.0 diesel. I also added a rear block to maintain about 1.0-1.5” rake. It surprisingly looks level but there’s still a rake and I have some wood and deer corn in the back. I have not noticed any sag yet
  3. Had my 6112’s for 2+ months now and am just so happy with them still. Glad I went this route.
  4. After owning my 3.0L for over a year and 30,000 miles (with zero problems!) my thoughts are this: - I LOVE this truck. Perfect for good highway mileage and moderate towing, and/or someone wanting a diesel. For me, this is my first diesel ever and really wanted that for a change. I was just bored of the gas engine for the time being. I have zero regrets for getting it and the engine/transmission fits my needs great. After lifting it and putting larger heavier LT tires on it I feel a sluggishness when starting from a dead stop. Typical and it doesn’t bother me but for someone that is more concerned with “street quickness” after leveling etc I think they’d be dissatisfied. - If you don’t “really want” a diesel like I did, I’d honestly just recommend people stick with the 5.3 or upgrade to the 6.2; most wanting more out of a truck like 99% of us on a site like this, I think the 6.2 makes more sense. As I own this 3.0 longer, the more and more I’m convinced it is exceptionally fitted for a unique subgroup specifically wanting this for their needs (like me) but for most people they should just stick with the gas engine.
  5. It’s likely a surprise gender reveal set up by your spouse. Congrats and Godspeed.
  6. I think the 6.2L in the Denali or AT4 would suit you best and in the long run you’d be happier with that.
  7. That’s tough, sounds like the engine/truck just isn’t matched up to what your wants or needs are and that the 6.2L would be a much better feel for you. As for the mpg discussion, it’s not so much how much fuel savings will get me past break even with the cost of Diesel engine over gas.... it’s that I can drive well over an hour longer in my 3.0L before stopping for fuel than if I had the gasser. Or on a particular trip towing, not only does it tow better but on a long trip I’d have to stop to fuel up an extra time than I would towing with the diesel. I’m paying extra for that luxury and to me (not everyone) it’s well with it
  8. Former Raptor owner here and could justify getting King 2.5’s (me personally) and I plan on doing no true off-roading. I pushed ordering off too long and when ready to pull the trigger the wait time was 5 months. I went with Bilstein 6112/5160 combo and am just 100% absolutely happy with the ride quality of my truck. Are they as good as the Kings - no of course not. But as someone that was willing to spend King 2.5 money front and rear to get a better ride, I will say I’m just very very pleased with how these 6112/5160’s ride - and that’s predominantly city potholes, rough roads, speed bumps, highway miles and towing. The only off roading I’ve done is on my farm in 2wd that a freaking Toyota Camry could handle. If you think that’s what you want I’m willing to bet you’ll love them for a fraction of King price. I have an LT 3.0 Duramax, set the front to 2” max setting and got a true 2” lift. Also put in a rear block since I tow and like having a slight rake.
  9. Nice, congrats! What are you trying to accomplish specifically? Much like the previous answers you’ll probably be equally fine with either Bilstein or Eibach. If you got 5100’s in the rear I personally would just match it and get 5100’s in the front. They’re both quality products. Keep it at the stock OEM setting if you wish or increase the front height a little if you desire. Don’t have to got all the way up. Just measure your front and rear current measurement and think how “level” do you want your truck if any?
  10. Rear block easy solution but when not hauling or towing the rear will sit higher than normal than front. Depends whether you are ok with that look or not. Extra leaf in back should support towing better than block but might ride rougher than current setting. Rear will be higher than front just like the block. You might search or google Airbags, Timbrens or SumoSpring and see if that might solve your need without lifting the truck
  11. I used the top setting and got right at 2” front lift which is the advertised lift for the 3.0 engine. Rear was exactly 2” too. Went with 27/65r20 tires which add 1/2” so a total of 2.5” all around. This keeps the same factory rake that my truck had which is slightly under 1.5” - I like the look and do a bit of towing so wanted to keep that.
  12. I always have a bad case of scope creep so I ended up with front 6112’s and rear 5160’s instead of 5100’s all around. Was going to get King 2.5’s but the wait was just way too long for me. The Bilsteins accomplished EXACTLY what I was wanting. I couldn’t be happier with them and I’m happier every time I drive my truck. My wife even commented how much better the ride felt to her. These replaced the OEM Z71 Ranchos. I was unhappy with how they felt over the pot holes, rough road sections, and speed bumps I encounter every day. The Bilsteins feel much better going over these. As well as much better on the highway in sections when the truck would previously feel “floaty”. The truck now settles quicker and I feel more in control. They are firmer which accomplishes this however they are NOT stiff at all. Is the Bilstein hype real? I would answer that with a resounding yes.
  13. I’m very interested in getting this. What kind of price range should I expect a shop to charge for installation?
  14. Certainly can’t tell you what to do and my thoughts may be far from perfect... but I can tell you my opinion: 1. I have read of and seen pictures of too many problems with the lower mounted spacer causing issues for me to feel comfortable installing that. For me personally it was off the table even if the dealership says “we’ll fix the issues for free every time it happens”. Should you decide to do the lower mounted spacer I would 100% get it done at the dealership and have in writing they will fix any issue that it causes. I would not get one installed anywhere else. 2. I used to be very cautious concerning doing anything that remotely might effect the warranty. As time went on I realized by doing things the right way, the warranty concern shouldn’t be an issue. Any problem will have to be directly caused by X and proved by GM that X caused it. And many/most items should have their own warranty. Personally I am not concerned about very simple things like a top spacer 2” or less or Bilstein shocks. It’s pretty straightforward. But, I would be careful if more and more things are further added together changing the geometry of suspension parts and stress points. 3. $880 is just way too much for me to pay for a “cheap” spacer to lift the front of my truck for aesthetics and no performance improvement. For me it would be similar to getting a $15 McDonald’s burger when an alternative would be spending $15-20 at a great high quality burger joint in town. I believe the lift spacer itself is what $60 maybe? I would suspect you can get the Bilstein 5100 front shocks installed with alignment done for that same price or cheaper at any competent shop. If it’s more, it shouldn’t be that much more IMO. I can’t remember the exact amount I paid but call it roughly $600-650, maybe $700 is what I paid my local shop in Houston to (1) install front Bilstein 6112’s, (2) rear Bilstein 5160’s, (3) 2” rear lift block, (4) rear bump stop extension, (5) balancing and alignment on the new tires I purchased from them. The balance/alignment/etc costs were maybe $25 a tire, so 100 for that? The actual parts install should be about 550. Say take away labor for the rear components and I’m betting you’re right in that cost point the dealership is charging you for a spacer. My 2 cents. Hope others will chime in with their thoughts because this forum gave me a ton of information as I was choosing to do. Best of luck!
  15. Absolutely. I edited my post after seeing your reply. *#2 measure to the top of the wheel WELL! not just the wheel lol* Yes, I'd say if you don't have any problem with how your truck rides or handles as it is, just go with the spacer and call it a day!
  16. I did. I don’t have the #’s in front of me but I ended up going with the 6112’s up front for normal Silverado, and the 5160’s in the rear sized for Trailboss. Very very pleased with the ride difference. I went with 2” Zone off-road rear block and did the GM bump stop extensions. Pleased with how everything turned out. Have not towed with this set up yet.
  17. If you're going spacer route, get a top-mounted spacer and not the bottom-mounted spacer. Make sure all 4 of your tires are aired up to same psi. Measure from the ground to the top of your wheel well, front back left and right. Review the difference between driver front/rear and passenger front/rear. If wanting to be as near perfectly level, select an upper spacer in that size. Each truck sits a little differently, so when a shop says 2" will get you level they're being lazy and just suggesting what most people use. For me 2" would have lifted the front too much and I'd be nose high with the truck completely empty. Edited - you are correct, with two inch level up front you do not have to worry about the UCAs, CVs, etc.
  18. Original mirrors had the blind spot alert and obviously the tow mirrors do not. Without changing the door harness and getting dealer to run the program, what error message should I expect on the dash if anything? This would be related to the blind spot monitoring relay hitting issues since it’s not there anymore.
  19. I am not a fan of the stock shocks on my LT Z71 so replacing them was important to me. Using the 5100’s over a spacer was a no brainer in my opinion. The quality of the ride is just much more greatly improved over the stock shocks with a spacer, and the net cost all in just isn’t that much more to not do it - unless you’re on a major budget. My problem is I have a massive case of scope creep and ended up going with the 6112’s over the 5100’s. ? I also added a rear block and did 5160’s in the rear. I am extremely pleased with the result even though they’re overkill for me. My wife even made a comment that the truck rides so much better.
  20. Wooo that was a little bit of work but I got the driver side installed! There is absolutely no way I could have done it without these directions - thank you! I did not change out the wiring harness. I couldn’t get it disconnected and then I realized how much more extensive that part was and just wanted to get the mirrors on to start. Will do passenger side tomorrow. With replacing mirrors only, no lights work (amber markers nor the rear facing light) but the power function for mirror adjust works just fine. That’s good enough for me right now. Last thing is yes, these things are freaking huge. Going to take a little getting used to for sure because there is a very new blind spot created!
  21. Thanks slj, the top attached to the mirror was easier but I had to use a flat head to help it out. The door side is just killing me. Does the grey piece move at all? Am I unplugging from the inside door panel part that’s near the grey/red clips or the side that attaches to the actual door?
  22. Trying this now, awesome instructions! But how in the ever living hell do you disconnect these?!!!
  23. Man sorry to hear that snakes. Another thought... have you considered trading in your AT4 for a new/different truck instead of changing out the suspension parts? I'd think you'd get really great value out of the AT4 as-is and in today's market.
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