Duramax3oh

I just reread your post and noticed you had a Denali. I know that can effect “lifting” because the suspension is a little different than the lower trims but not sure how a simple shock swap out works with the Denali’s “system”

Yes. The problem with the oem ranchos is they’re too soft for how many of us want the ride to feel, this creates that bouncing up and down feel a few times before the settle back to the natural level. The Bilsteins are a firmer shock which means they will return back to that natural level quicker and smoother. This also helps with that body roll feel when turning, the firmer shock will keep the truck more level throughout the turn which create a more solid planted feel. There are other shocks out there that can accomplish the same thing but the Bilsteins are a common choice because they’ve been around forever, are a quality product and are reasonably priced. The 4600 series will be for your OEM/Stock ride height. The 5100 series (and bigger brother 6112/5160) are the ride height adjusting ones allowing for an increased front end and if you lifted the rear through a block/add-a-leaf. After having just replaced my ranchos with Bilsteins I can say I’m very pleased with the trucks feel and they solved exactly what you are (and I was) concerned about.

Here’s some pictures of where I can adjust mine.

This is a very easy fix, no need to take to your dealer. All you need is a screwdriver and 10 seconds of time to pop the hood and adjust your beams lower. I have to do this when I pull the trailer because the back end goes down and front end goes up - thus headlights point higher than they should. Google how to do this and what the "proper" height should be, then you can compare to what yours are at. Essentially it's parking X feet away from your garage or a wall on flat land and measuring the height of your beams on said wall. Then you can make adjustments to a lower height and have both sides even.

Welp got my Bilsteins installed today and went ahead with these Wildpeak H/T02 in size LT275/65R20. Thanks for intro OP! Your lug tread seems slightly larger/more pronounced than mine. I wonder if each side is a little different, if so I might switch them around next tire rotation. My impression so far, they are much more subdued and tame looking like OEM style. Maybe the other side has a slight “better” look... but I like them so far. Haven’t tested them at all but I think they will fit my needs well as largely highway and towing tire. They are extremely quiet which was important to me.

Here’s a pic of my set up, I use the Equalizer 4 point WDH. Hopefully you can zoom in and get a good idea to compare with your Sierra. I believe the center of my receiver (unhooked) was at 18 3/4”

@dtholmanmax Ok you’ve had these a few days and I’m dying to know... What are your impressions of the new tires!? How do they compare to the stock tires you had?

You’re doing good due diligence getting a lot of opinions and then go to the dealership and test different trucks out yourself. My recommendation would be to go the LT route with 10-speed transmission. 5.3 or 3.0 would fit your needs just fine. I absolutely love my 3.0.

Does anyone know the pin size, hole size and taper angle for the 2" block on our Silverado 1500's? I ordered the GM ones the trail boss uses but they were backordered with no delivery in sight so I got impatient and canceled it. Need to order new blocks for the rear. Just want a good quality and not have to worry. I have the extended length Ubolts already. Was thinking of ordering from the following site but saw similar things on others (in re: to pin size/taper angle). 3/4" - 5/8"-9/16" 0 - 2.3 degree taper? https://realtruck.com/p/bds-rear-lift-blocks/v/chevy/silverado-1500/2020/ Happy to order from anywhere as long as it's the right fit for our trucks - please send recs. Also, I do NOT have the composite rear springs but the regular steel ones! yay lol

Thanks for posting, these look great. I am looking for a good highway and towing tire while trying to maintain a good look. The AT3Ws, Ko2, Ridge Grappler, etc are just too aggressive for what I want... but these I will have to look into! Please keep this thread posted with your opinion as you get some miles on them!

Curious what benefits everyone is witnessing: 1. Engine sound 2. Power gains 3. Fuel mileage gains?

TLDR: I really really like the look of the Wrangler Trailrunner AT and it's just about the exact look I want. But how would they work for lots of highway driving, towing travel trailer, want low road noise, maintain as good fuel mileage as possible? Zero worry about snow/ice.. but does rain here in Houston. Well this is a disappointed thread for me to find, but very very good at the same time. Will be lifting the truck 2" very shortly and increasing tires to LT 275/65R20 tires. I will have almost no worry about driving in snowy/icy conditions but it does rain quite a bit here. My needs are significantly on pavement, a lot of highway driving, and a good bit of towing a travel trailer. I'm still very sensitive to trying to keep road noise down to a minimum and maintaining as good a fuel mileage as realistically possible. I do not want a pure highway style tire and do not want an aggressive off road tire. A solid all terrain that that may be closer to highway is what I'm looking for vs bordering towards mud. I'm also trying to maintain as close to OEM factory look and even closer to the 2500 HD look. Would like to be pleased visually but am not going for an aggressive/trail boss look or anything. Continue to go back to the Michelin Defender LTX M/S (although not my favorite look) or Michelin LTX AT2. Came across the Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunner AT seen them on several HD's and Super Duty's and think they look fantastic. Better look than the stock Duelers I have but they don't scream off-road. I really like the look of these the best... would they fit my needs or are they really truly junk? Not in snow but highway and towing how would they hold up?

That’s a great looking truck. If you’re currently very happy with your truck then I wouldn’t rush out to replace it. Personally, I would wait to see (1) when and how GM refreshes the interior and (2) when and how GM refreshes the exterior. Otherwise after trading trucks now after a year you might be right back trading out again in another year or two. If the new design is just awful to you, the previous model will be discounted more and you can still get that most likely. As for power running board you don’t need a factory installed one and I wouldn’t let that detract me from buying the truck I want. Just get the AMP Research Powersteps.

Flatblack83 I believe has the ICON coilovers. Search for that username, it may help in finding discussion on them. @Flatblack83

https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/gm/products/2019-silverado-sierra-autostop-eliminator Auto Stop Eliminator, and I also agree with tinted windows... or tint front windows to match the rear. I also always get rear wheelhouse liners. I can't stand the unfinished look of the rear wheel houses on trucks. Spray in bedliner a classic but that's getting a little more expensive. All 4 of these together should still be <$1k which is nice

I don’t mean to distract from the spirit of this thread but can anyone tell what tires these are in this article, on the High Country? They look kinda nice

Glad OP got that settled, you shouldn't have any problems. The GM 2" lift comes with new CV axles. I know this has probably been discussed a million times but what exactly do they change from the original stock ones (I believe it's the angle)? Does 2" create enough stress on the original cv axles though? Ie the Bilstein 5100/6112 front strut replacement with 2" lift. Would we really need to get the "trail boss" cv axles or is that not a problem to worry about?

Ditto. A have the same and love it. I always give the analogy of it like a squeaky pantry door in your house. You just deal with it and you might get 'used' to it... but then you decide to spray the hinges with WD-40 and after that it's silent. And you're just like "holy cow, why did I not do that sooner??"

Flat terrain towing a 6K pound 23' airstream going 65mph I make 350 miles on the tank. Going 75 mph is still slightly over 300 mile range. Unloaded just me and the truck I've made 700 miles on a tank going 60 mph. Faster 75mph area I'm around 600 mile range. As probably known... 24 gallon tank. *Edited to add: this is also me knowing the route, distances and availability of stations for filling up. So this gives an idea of my 3.0's kind of "best case".... when driving/towing I pay attention to the DIC's mileage and mpg average to estimate how many gallons I've used on that tank. I rarely go past using 20 gallons and will stop to fill up before approaching empty.

I would second this and recommend at least taking a quick look into it in person. You can EASILY make your own trail boss aftermarket a number of ways if you want that look. Could possibly be cheaper too as trail bosses seem to have higher demand/less discounts. While people say the 3.0 was made more for good fuel mileage rather than towing... I would argue it still outperforms the other engines towing, pound for pound until you start reaching the upper rating limits. Which doesn’t sound like you will at all. 3.0 peak torque of 460 at 1500 rpm 6.2 peak torque of 460 at 4100 rpm 5.3 peak torque of 383 at 4100 rpm

My 3.0 LT Z71 sits at 37 3/8” on the driver side and has a 1 3/8” natural rake. To me it’s negligible and looks almost level. Kind of surprising the RST front is actually higher. It bugs the heck out of me that people (salesmen especially) don’t understand each truck sits a little different and they always push “2 inches to level” and I’m like NOOOOO! Haha

This is extremely good advice. My Fords in the past have always been on the optimistic side when real mpg was lower. I've hand calculated at minimum 20-25 times with this Chevy though and only ONCE has the hand calc been lower than what the information center has displayed. I've been pleasantly surprised

No and yes. It's far from the most important for me but it's a nice satisfaction feeling to get better mpg than worse. And it's always nice to "justify" things/purchases/etc in your head. It's not about fuel $ savings for me... what I really love is being able to drive further (especially while towing) and not have to stop and fill up with gas as much. Not having to stop at all... or stopping once instead of twice is what really pleases me. TIME IS MONEY baby. The catch with these Silverados/Sierras though is the freaking small fuel tank. While it doesn't necessarily "need" to be any bigger I really wish it was a 30 gallon instead of 24. I can make the 350 mile trip from Houston to New Orleans (which I frequently drive) on one tank of gas towing my trailer. No need to pull off and stop just put it in Drive, get there, crack open an Abita and relax ?

I don't like to use the instant mpg reading other than to get a vague idea of the general range we may be talking about. I take a lot of long highway trips and prefer to set cruise control at different speeds and then see how the 25-mile avg and 50-mile avg readouts look. It's hard to get any more accurate than that IMO. Particularly when you do that on I-10 in Texas and Louisiana... there is NO DOWNHILL ?

Crew cab short bed Z71 4x4 stock 275/60r20 Bridgestone dueler ATs