Gangly

I was changing my fluids the other day and noticed I had a leak at the seal between my transfer case and transmission. Usually, this is indicative of a leaky transfer case input seal or transmission output seal, but could be both. I will be pulling the transfer case to replace the worn seal(s), but replacing the seals can be a PAIN. GM recommends inserting a self tapping screw into the transfer case input seal and pulling it out with pliers, but recommends tool J-36825 to replace the transmission output seal, which basically does the same thing as the self tapping screw. Has anybody used the J-36825 tool to replace the input shaft seal on the transfer case?

The good news is the bottom end on these motors are near bulletproof as long as you don't drop a valve. A rebuild for me would consist of a new set of non DFM lifters, new springs, retainers, guides, and a new oil pump. Basically all top end components minus the pump. Beyond that, there is not much these motors need as far as a rebuild is concerned, they are very robust engines. With the transmission, I would probably just purchase a new one in its entirety and be done. However, I wouldn't be looking to rebuild an engine until the engine let me know it needed it. The same with the transmission.

there are no aftermarket lockers for our trucks yet, so your only option is to fit the ZR2/AT4X diffs to your truck. Being electronic lockers, it shouldn't be too hard to wire them up to an aux switch panel.

I use my key fob for remote start, and could care less about anything else OnStar offers. I had a free trial period of OnStar, Wifi, etc. and never used it once. There is very little that OnStar provides, that my phone doesn't do better, at least with regards to things I want from my vehicle. So personally, no, I have never paid for OnStar and will never willingly pay for OnStar. However, everybody has different wants/needs and there is no price on "peace of mind", so I can understand why there are some who chose to utilize their services.

I'm sure GM did a lot of testing and validation as well.....to meet a minimum requirement. You must remember that all testing and production is done to meet MINIMUM requirements. GM has to produce a shock on a certain budget, that can accomplish what 95 percent of driver's do, which is highway driving with an empty bed and no load. Go outside of those boundaries, and their testing and validation doesn't fall within the course and scope of how the vehicle is being used, and the equipment will fail under extended use on those conditions. The rancho's lasted less than 20k miles on my truck before blowing out while the Eibach ProTruck system has almost 65k miles on it now and still feel like knew. Improve Handling - Are you seriously gonna say the Silverado doesn't have extreme lateral roll and longitudinal bounce? Hops - The back end hops over bumpy roads and kicks the back end out, enough that GM actually changed their suspension tuning to account for it....didnt solve the problem. Neither of the above are subjective, they are facts that GM has tried to account for but has come up short for one reason or another. And yes, the aftermarket products (Bilstein, Eibach, etc.) do show SIGNIFICANT differences in results, eliminating excessive roll, sway, bounce and hop.

If it was me, I would either by new tires or use those tires until they wore out. Either way it's still cheaper than front and rear differential swaps/installs. Don't forget your pinions would need to be replaced as well.

Increased number of coils, greater spring constant(k).

Bingo. There is never a financial gain when purchasing a new vehicle if you can continue to use what you have. People will try to justify it financially and no matter what argument is made, the bottom line is they usually just want a new vehicle. There is nothing wrong with wanting a new vehicle though, and if you have the means then go for it, I did. However, if you are trying to justify the purchase of a new vehicle through financial gains such as gas, insurance, etc. when the vehicle you currently own is adequate, you've already lost. Bottom line: if you are financially free (see Dave Ramsey) and want the truck, then go for it and don't worry about justifying the purchase to anybody.

"Worth" is in the eye of the beholder, so that is a question only you can answer. If your looking for financial value, then no, the value is not in the purchase of a more expensive vehicle with increased maintenance and fuel costs.

I use the OBDLink MX and the OBDLink SX for analysis and active monitoring. The MX is bluetooth and allows for unlimited vehicle make and models with free updates. By far the best OBD Scanner and diagnostics aide I have ever used. Also includes diagnostics for manufacture and vehicle specific systems.

Wow, a printed manual would seem to be a mandate in my opinion. It would seem stupid to limit your only knowledge base to a digital format that can't be accessed when you battery dies(the most common failure). If my only option for an owners manual was a digital format stored in the vehicle that could only be accessed with a working battery, I would print one out and keep it in the vehicle. There have been too many instances where a physical copy would be most advantageous. Heck, the first night I purchased my truck I went home and read the owners manual. I'd be darned if I had to sit in the truck scrolling through the owners manual on a digital screen in my truck for 2 hours to learn the basic functions of my truck, NO THANKS. That being said, I do keep a digital copy of the owners manual on my tablet and my phone.

It has one battery.

Installing the Eibach system instantly eliminated any excessive roll on my truck and the bouncy, pogo like characteristic was eliminated as well. Its a great setup and I would have zero worries about doing it the same way if I had it to do all over again.

Your speedometer ratios are very close to my calculations: (1)275/65/20 is approximately 32.99" diameter(OEM Tire) (2)265/65/18 is approximately 31.56" diameter (3)285/65/18 is approximately 32.59" diameter The difference between (1) and (2) is approximately 1.43"(not 2" as indicated above), or a ratio difference of approximate .95665 or 1.0453 depending on how you account for your ratio, giving you a variation in speed of approximately 3.1 mph when your speedometer is reading 70 mph. So by putting your speedometer at 70 mph, you are effectively traveling approximately 66.9 mph. Going to (1) from (3), the difference is approximately .4", or a ratio difference of approximate .9879 or 1.012 depending on how you account for your ratio, giving you a variation in speed of approximately .85 mph when your speedometer is reading 70 mph. So by putting your speedometer at 70 mph, you are effectively traveling approximately 69.15 mph. Neither of these options are bad, but the good news is there is a 3rd option that is best! The best option for you to stick near the factory diameter while utilizing the current 18" wheel is to look at the 275/70/18 tire. It has a diameter of approximately 33.16" and will most closely matchup with the factory programming for the 32.99" diameter OEM tire. There are also a TON of tires offered in this size. Good Luck!

Eibach or Bilstein, either will do nicely. However, you wont eliminate the roll/porpoise effect of the stock suspension without increasing the stiffness, so know that any aftermarket shock you install will be stiffer than stock. As a side note, about every spring you will find in any high end aftermarket suspension setup will be an Eibach spring, or a spring manufactured by Eibach and relabeled. I have approximately 63k miles on my Eibach Pro-Truck suspension lift and the truck still feels like I installed the springs and shocks yesterday. Their stuff is top notch at a great price.

Your master mechanic friend should know better. The shock and spring assembly come out as a single unit, easy as pie. They go back in just fine as well with no need to compress anything while removing or installing them on the truck. My guess is that y'all didn't disconnect the sway bar and steering linkages meaning your LCA's weren't at max droop. Either that or you removed the top nut for the shock shaft while it was still on the vehicle allowing the shock to continue to expand as you lowered the suspension. Spring compression should only occur after the assembly is completely removed from the vehicle and you are ready to put the springs on the new shocks. Having done it multiple times myself, the removal and install is pain free and shouldn't take more than a short afternoon of wrenching, especially for a "master mechanic".

The leather is just a cover, so at worst you would just swap your seat covers over.

For the win! If all else fails, check the owners manual. Now for the popcorn... "what's the best Dexron 6 ATF for my vehicle?"

You would need to go from a 3.23 rear gear to a 3.33 rear gear which would be so small of a change that it might as well be non existent. If staying with the same load range tire, going to a 275/65-20 would feel no different and there would be no need to change gearing.

Now at 82k miles on my 2020 5.3. On my third belt, but other than that no major engine issues.

Definitely easier and quicker, and i considered it briefly, but I didnt like the aftermarket bumper piece and the pseudo bull bar. The RAM trucks have an awesome factory hidden winch setup and it would be awesome if GM could do the same.

I took a winch plate from an aftermarket bumper kit and modified it, fab'd up a fair lead mount with gussets, and welded the fairlead mount to the modified winch plate. The entire setup bolts directly to the frame, but I had to drill 4 additional holes in the winch plate; two additional holes to mount it to the frame, and two additional holes in the base of the winch plate to mount the winch at the depth I wanted. I rewired the control box with longer cables so it's now at the top of the passenger side fender so I don't have to crawl under the truck to access the controller. I also cut an opening in the upper baffle in order to reach the clutch from above.

Finally completed the hidden winch install while retaining my factory bumper. It took waaaaay to much time and effort so I don't know if I would do it again but I do like knowing it's simple, clean, and unique since I only know of one other truck that has done it as well. I haven't had a chance to cut off the hook and add my Factor 55 cable attachment, or clean the cut around the fairlead, but those are next. Please forgive the dirty appearance, it gets used like a truck.

Are you certain that you have 3.42's on your TB? I know in the past you could get the 3.42's in a Custom trim truck with the smaller 6 speed transmission, but I'm pretty sure the only way to get the 3.42 9.76" axle with the 8 or 10 speed is to get the max trailering PKG, and that is not available with the TB or AT4 last I checked. Do you have a window sticker or build sheet? Yours would be the first TB I have seen or heard of with the 3.42's if that's the case.