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Everything posted by Gangly

  1. I have approximately 75k miles on my 2020 and I have between 50%-60% life left on the front and 70%-80% remaining on the rear. However, A LOT of those miles are highway miles so my vehicle's brakes don't receive the same use and abuse that a vehicle driven in stop and go traffic would experience.
  2. I almost exclusively do my own work, from pulling engines and transmissions to complete brake system replacement, so any opportunity to give myself more freedom to do my own work is welcomed. I understand some people aren't comfortable with that and I get it. Hell, I'm scared to open up my laptop but there are people on here who work on them daily like its nothing, and it wouldn't be right to tell that person he/she cant work on their own computer. Like mentioned above, the Right to Repair law is welcomed but it will have no teeth since the OEMs will either be slow to release the software or make it so freaking expensive it isn't feasible to purchase the software just to fix a couple minor issues. I'm less worried about independent shops and more worried about independent owners who have the capability to save their household thousands of dollars by doing the work themselves, but cant because they cant afford the $20k software required to program a new $500 shock.
  3. JohnVec The quick/abrupt 1-2 shift right after startup is normal for the 6 spd transmissions and there is a bulletin out about it. If the abrupt 1-2 shift happens after the first or second set of shifts in the morning, then its an issue that needs to be addressed. For the 6 spd.: When transmission ATF temperature is at or below 85 degrees F (30 degrees C). This 2-3 upshift flare can occur until the ATF temperature warms. If the 2-3 flare is determined to be ATF temperature sensitive use a Tech 2 or GDS2 to make note of the throttle position when the flare occurs Drive the vehicle to get ATF temperature to at least 104 degrees F (40 degrees C) and then make several 2-3 shifts at the throttle position determined to be the most sensitive to the 2-3 flare. This will allow the transmission adapts to tailor the shifts and may help to eliminate the cold 2-3 flare. This condition is a NORMAL characteristic of the transmission, it will not cause durability concerns and no repair attempts should be made. Please share this information with the customer, including a copy of this message. Being an 8 spd, I dont know if this information helps you at all, but it might be relative since the symptoms sound very similar. Best to take it to a dealership and let them sort it out if you can. On a side not, my 2020 5.3 with the 8 spd does the same exact thing and has since day 1
  4. I agree if its 2 qts in 5k miles. I would crawl under the truck and start looking for oil leaks.
  5. Its hard to get a torque wrench in tight areas for spark plug tightening, so I generally go by feel. When you are loosening them, keep a mental note of the pressure you applied to loosen them then try to snug up the new ones as close as possible. Its not very scientific I know, but I've changed A LOT of spark plugs over the years and I have never had an issue with over tightening them or having any get loose.
  6. Answer is no, it will not void your warranty. I have a Fumoto valve installed on my truck and I love it. The only issue you might have is a technician not smart enough to figure out what it is and decide to remove it like a typical oil drain plug.
  7. I have the composite leaf springs and put a 2" lift on the truck. I purchased 1.5" rear blocks from Rough Country, along with their extended U-bolts, and everything bolted up nicely. 75k Miles and everything is still buttoned up perfectly with no issues.
  8. You can check your transmission level, its just not done with a dipstick anymore. Caution: THE ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING when the trans oil level check plug is removed or excessive fluid loss will occur, resulting in an under-filled condition. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. Note: Continue to monitor the TFT. If the TFT is not within the specified values, reinstall the trans oil level check plug and repeat the previous steps. Observe the TFT using the driver information center (DIC) or a scan tool. Start and idle the engine. Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range. Pause for at least 3 seconds in each range. Move the shift lever back to PARK. Ensure the engine RPM is low (500–800 RPM). Allow the engine to idle for at least 1 minute. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. The vehicle must be level, with the engine running and the shift lever in the PARK range. Remove the transmission oil level check plug (1) from the transmission fluid pan. Allow any fluid to drain. Open In New TabZoom/Print If the fluid is flowing as a steady stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip. If no fluid comes out, add fluid until fluid drips out, refer to Transmission Fluid Fill Procedure.
  9. I cant think of one reason why you shouldn't fill the oil filter before installing it, if at all possible. Ticking is a typical sound I will hear for a second or two on startup after performing an oil change, regardless of oil type, and I experience it on all of my vehicles. If it lasts for longer than a second or two I might would start to worry.
  10. I change mine around the 5% mark and I have never noticed any loss of oil on the 5.3 engine. I wonder if the engines are being too babied when new and the rings aren't seating properly?
  11. I've got a Z71 and I've bent the flimsy shield for the transfer case a couple times. I just bend it back with a small pry bar once I get home and never think twice about it. However, the ZR2 version looks much more robust, does it bolt right up?
  12. AC drip. I bet if you look closely you will see wetness between the pan and transmission nearly all the way around on one side. The water will drip on to the transmission elsewhere, then follow that crease where the pan bolts to the transmission, and drip at the lowest or most rearward point on the transmission.
  13. I have a Z71, which is the same suspension as your X31, and I completely understand what you are talking about while towing. The pogo effect, or pontooning, was annoying as heck when towing and the suspension felt like it couldn't keep up with the roadway when going over corrugations and bumpy roads. As a result, I went with the Eibach Pro Truck 2" lift which came with front shocks and springs, and rear shocks. I tow quite a bit with my truck and the difference in handling between the stock suspension and the Eibach suspension is drastic! No more nose dive when braking, and no more swaying in the turns. The shocks are incredibly more capable and the truck feels much more "planted" in nearly all conditions. Stock Ranchos are a comfortable shock for long drives where you want it to feel comfortable like a SUV, but they quickly fall short when you try to use the truck close to its potential. Even if you go with a Bilstein or some other brand shock, I would highly urge you to get the Eibach front springs as they add a level of control to the front end that cant be had with the stock springs. Also, Eibach manufactures the springs for almost every top of the line, performance based suspension brand out there for our trucks, their springs are that good.
  14. I know GM recommends using a certain brand and type, but I also know those are just fluids that meet their specific requirements and put a little money in their pockets. Do they work? Obviously. Is there anything better? Absolutely. With that caveat, I'll be changing my transfer case fluid in the near future and I was wondering what options are available that go above and beyond the requirements suggested by GM? Price isn't too much of an issue as long as it isn't $1,000/qt.
  15. The Trail Boss UCA and stock UCA are the same, so any 2" suspension lift will be perfectly fine. The actual lifting portion of the TB kit is a longer shock and added rear blocks, that's it. The stock UCA is more than adequate for your needs and will require zero maintenance over the life of the component while aftermarket UCA's will require maintenance. I'm not against aftermarket UCA's since I'll be installing some in the future. However, for what you are describing that you want to do, UCA's are definitely not needed and will only increase your maintenance and costs with no return in additional capability or longevity.
  16. Rough Country if I remember correctly, not sure on the taper question and I have had no driveline issues. No issues at all in 4WD at any point in time and I use it quite often.
  17. As long as you stay around 2" of lift you wont need upper control arms and UCA's are generally looked at once you go 3.5" or greater of lift on stock ride height trucks. You'll be fine with your 2" of lift, nothing to worry about at all. I installed a 2" Eibach lift and I put a 1.5" block in the back which gave me around .5" of rake if I remember correctly. If your looking to not sag with weight in the back, I would go with 2" block in the rear just to be safe.
  18. A torque wrench will generally be 80% torque on let-off. For instance, if you are loosening the bolt and it breaks free at 80 ft/lbs, the tightening spec would be approximately 100 ft/lbs. However, the use of loc-tite or any thread locking liquid throws the 80% value out the window. This percentage value also changes depending on whether you have mutual mating surfaces or mating surfaces of differing materials, ie aluminum fasteners on steel bolts. With all that being said, stick with 45 Nm  (33 lb ft), that's what the service manual recommends
  19. Incorrect, it is a true locker. It works just fine above 35 MPH, hell I've been locked at 70MPH, it just has to initially engage below 35 mph. If you lock it up at 5 mph then it will stay locked, regardless of your speed, until you do a significant turn maneuver which releases the armature. When it locks, it is a 100 % locked, mechanical engagement and it will not slip. I'm not sure where you got your information from, but it isn't accurate.
  20. Bingo. Walmart is significantly cheaper than the auto parts stores around here with just about everything auto related. Heck, even Rain-X for my windshield wiper fluid is $5 at the auto shop and $3 at Walmart. For basic maintenance, Walmart for the win!
  21. I am assuming you have a 5.3 or 6.2 For Oil, use 0w20 and just stay with name brand. About every aftermarket filter will have better filtration than the ACDelco filters, but again go with what you are comfortable with and as long as you change your oil and filter regularly there shouldn't be an issue. I prefer Castrol Full Syn with Titanium blah blah blah, and the FRAM Synthetic Filter. Both have received top marks in truly independent testing, but again, just about any name brand oil and filter does fine as long as you change them both regularly.
  22. A PERKO switch would fit your needs fine, and I agree that you need to have a cutoff or selector switch between the control box and the battery.
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