Everything posted by Gangly
Also, 3.5 inches of lift isn't extreme, but it's getting there for an otherwise stock truck and you will want to start looking at UCA's. Numerically, its equivalent to a TB lift with an additional 1.5 spacer (very common with TB owners) so the 3.5 inches of total lift isnt horrible per se, but you are right on the verge of needing UCA's and I would start considering differential drops if you wanted to go much more.
The front suspension is the same, regardless of what cab or box length you have. I would assume the rear suspension is the same regardless as well, but I wont stamp my name to it since I havent verified it. Whether or not the suspension system "fits" or not not is probably not an issue at all, its more than likely a matter of varying spring rates based in differences in weights between all of the models.
There is a 17" wheel offered from the factory but it is the base model wheel and their availability through craigslist, marketplace, and other similar purchasing avenues is slightly less than anybody's desire to own them, meaning very few. Unfortunately, most aftermarket 17" wheels don't fit due to the brake calipers but there are a few our there and finding a popular 17" wheel will most likely result in high costs and limited style. This is not meant to be a downer at all as there are many great reasons to put 17's on this truck, but unfortunately its not an easy and cheap task unless you are fine with the dismal factory 17's.
One is a 33" tire and the other is a 33.2" tire so you shouldn't have to trim anything at all. .2" difference is nothing unless its a crazy offset. You need to get the off set from the seller and verify.
You'll be doing the Carolina Squat and be nose high. I added roughly 2 inches to my front and needed to add a spacer to the rear to get it closer to leveling out as the truck was obviously nose high. I added a 1.5" block in the rear if I remember correctly, but I could be wrong as it might have been a 2", I just don't remember. However, some models look like the front end is sagging from the factory and you can see the obvious camber on the front end so I'm not sure what's going on there.
I have a 2 spd transfer case and sport mode but mine is a 2020. I wonder if the chip shortage has anything to do with it?
They will bolt up just fine. Get your speedometer calibrated if you want to, or don’t.
I purchased a winch plate from a FabFours Matrix bumper system, a combined bumper/winch combo. After purchasing just the winch plate, I had to make minor alterations to make it work with the OEM bumper and mounting locations. Luckily, I only needed to drill three holes for the factory tow hook mounting bolts(2 on the driver's side of the winch plate and one on the passengers side of the winch plate), and cut off some mounting brackets on the winch plate that would normally be used to mount the FabFours bumper. With the FabFours bumper mounting tab pieces cut off of the winch plate, and the three holes drilled for the attachment of the factory tow hooks, the winch plate bolted up perfectly and mounted easy as butter. It is held on by 8 bolts, 4 on either side, that go through the factory openings in the frame rails so that there were zero modifications required to the truck itself, only to the winch plate. Again, this required zero modifications to the truck itself and utilized existing holes in the frame. My wiring harness is coming from Canada and will be 2 weeks before it gets here, but once it does I'll tear everything down again to clean things up before installing the harness, and will take photos of the bolt locations and modifications made to the winch plate. I didn't take any pictures of the truck with the bumper back on, but it looks completely stock. I haven't cut the opening in the bumper for the fairlead yet so as of right now you cant tell that there is a winch installed.
I finally got around to installing my hidden winch mount. A little cutting and grinding here and there, only to the winch mounting plate, and it's finally installed. One bumper mounting bolt didn't line up but if I move the winch rearward an inch or so on the mounting plate I can utilize the 6th bolt, just need to drill new winch mounting bolt holes in the mounting plate. Just ran out of time. Two things I need to do: First, I still have to mount the control box for the winch elsewhere in the engine compartment due to tolerances. It simply doesn't fit on the top of the winch. Second thing I need to do is weld up a mount for the Hawse Fairlead and cut the hole in the plastic fascia of the bumper. Other than those two small things left to do, it's good to go. Basically, the hidden winch mounting plate bolted up nicely and the bumper installed with perfect clearances, minus one bolt, which is an easy fix. Once the extended cables come in I will wire up the control box, move the winch back an inch, and mount the fairlead. Oh yeah, please don't ridicule me too bad for the two ugly cuts on the front of the mounting plate, lol. I'll square them up before the install is completed, my OCD won't allow me not to.
Trolling, there was a near identical post to this one awhile back. You screwed up, own it. Play stupid games, win stupid prizes.
I can fit one with the tailgate up, but its a big boy (XR650R). With the tailgate down I can fit three.
The suspension difference is 2" longer shocks up front with a longer shock and block in the rear. Drivetrain difference is longer CV's. With lifts 4" and above, you usually have drop down brackets for your front differential in which case the longer CV's arent necessary. However, it would be highly recommended to have the longer CV's if you are lifting 3" or more with no front differential drop kit.
Be mindful, the transfer case shield bends very easily. After high centering my truck on a dirt mound one afternoon, I crawled under it at the house to look for damage and found the transfer case skid plate was bent upwards and the lip/edge was pressing into the transfer case snout. I bent the "skid plate" back down to its original orientation with one hand, that should tell you how strong they aren't. I would replace them immediately with something better if there were any affordable options.
Sierras have smaller fender wells than the Silverado's, which you already know since you have researched it. With the use of spacers you will most likely have to trim some fender liner materials or pull it back considerably.
There were several initial repair instances where the differential swap didn't cure the noise permanently, but that was early on before they diagnosed what the culprit was. Basically replacing a bad one with another bad one that would soon exhibit the same noise issues. The newer replacement differentials haven't had that issue as far as I am aware but I could be mistaken. I have not had the noise, knock on wood, but have heard it in others.
Bingo. Its a completely different differential assembly, with the issue being unrelated to the CV shafts. Alldata.com has informative images as well that can aide in illustrating the different internals. If there is a specific part number you need or image you would like, I can see if I can pull it up if I get some free time, but I cant guarantee that it will show them. Also, GM already knows the issue and has provided a fix for it. Check out TSB #PIP5653K. For a short period of time, GM was just replacing the entire differential assembly, but I am unsure if that method of alleviation is still in affect.
Also, I failed to mention that the "Jingle Jingle" is only experienced in the SU4's, not the SU5's, per GM documentation. Per "Some customers may comment on a squeak or chirp noise in 2wd that goes away in 4wd. Some people may also describe it as a metallic jingle, ringing, click or tick. Condition is easiest to duplicate in warmer ambient temperatures, after approximately 30 miles of driving and is barely audible. Technician may notice that the noise seems to be from the front left axle seal area. This information only applies to the SU4 axle in pick up applications AND all utilities. This condition does not affect durability and or operation of the vehicle but may be annoying to some customers. Test drive the vehicle and confirm the noise is in fact as described above and inform the customer that as soon as a repair is validated this document will be updated communicating that repair to the dealer. "
Your using axle, CV, and differential interchangeably so I am somewhat confused, but I'll try to make do with that I can gather from your post. 1) I apologize, I misspoke when I indicated the differentials were made in Mexico., I should have been clearer and used the term "utilized". From prior posts over the past 2 years on this website, and others, information has been provided that indicates one of the differentials (not axles) is predominantly used in Mexico trucks while the other isn't. 2) I whole heartedly agree, the same manufacturing tolerances are required around the world per given manufacturer. However, the SU4 and SU5 are completely different designs from completely different manufacturers so there definitely WILL be differences in the two differentials that do not allow for an apple to apple comparison. 3) Trail bosses have the same issue because its not the axles, its the differential that's the issue. If you have proof otherwise, please post. For your reading pleasure, or if you get bored, please check out this informative post on the SU4 differentials. I believe you will find some clarity there. 4) The Trail Boss axles are not any different in diameter, its their length, as shown by users who have measured and compared the two. If you have quantitative proof otherwise that shows them to be wrong (and please tell me its not from the mouth of a dealership technician or parts salesman), please post it since I would much rather admit I'm wrong, learn the correct answer and move forward, than to sit here and give out false advice. 5) If new CV's cured your issue, then you didn't have the same "Jingle-Jingle" issue as others. The issue is internal to the differential and not related CV length or design.
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