SeekAndDestroy

I use Amsoil 5w30 Signature series and Amsoil filter. Strange how they told you to use that race stuff

That’s awesome! Great numbers for a cam swap. So you didn’t put that crazy intake on? What lifters and rods did they put in? How does it pull off the line? Up top?

Waiting is the hardest part, lol. Just looked up those parts. It’s almost $5000 for 2 fuel pumps and a set of injectors… yikes

6k for a fuel system upgrade... that's insane. I know parts for our trucks are expensive but wow, outrageous. Hooking up is a problem. It makes sense to set up your truck like that for racing. 7000 RPM shifts! I can't wait to hear what that sounds like. Going to be an awesome truck!

I'll assume the DOD delete cam in the graph has the stock lift. It makes 450 ft/lbs from 2000 (with headers and E85). With your setup, heavy tires and a level, you'll be sluggish off the line with the MSD and cam. It doesn't make 450 until about 3000, and it makes the least peak torque. The MSD intake is $2300 for 47 HP peak, and it makes it above 6000. I have upgraded push rods and valve springs and I shift at 6100. If you want to spin faster you might have to upgrade everything in the heads. A Circle D converter is $2100. It will make your truck feel better off the line and go faster in a race. They will have the engine out already, it's not going to cost much more labor to put it in. If you are chasing numbers go for the torque. IMO getting snapped back in the seat from a stop is more impressive than a 60-120 roll.

I only saw the one for the Vette, part #2700. It will probably bolt on and work, but it’s going to kill the bottom end torque. The only gains will be at 5k and up. Not very daily driver friendly. Call Davenport and see what they think about it. If I were you I’d save that money for a converter

It’s not very often, maybe once a month if the tranny downshifts funny. It’ll do one lurch forward. I just mash the brakes harder, lol. In 6th gear at 6100 RPM I’ll probably be going 180-200 Km/hr. The driveshaft might handle that RPM but the tires are not rated. Just safer for them to dyno it in 4th and do the math after.

They are good. If you can afford it, get an aftermarket converter with a slightly higher stall than stock. The only issue I have is when I’m coming to a stop the cam will push through the brakes. Not every time, but it’s pretty sketchy on a slippery snow day

No, tuned for 91. E85 is hard to find here, only one station in the whole city has it. I have full custom exhaust. 1-3/4” Kooks headers, kooks y-pipe with high flow cats then it duals into 2.5” pipes with Dynomax mufflers. Loud AF. I’ve heard that the Magnaflow 12909 muffles headers good. This is the dyno sheet. They said it was a 4th gear pull, and it would have 5-7% more power if it was done in 6th.

I have that cam in my 2018. BTR makes quality stuff. With headers it added +100 hp and +80 torque. I don't notice the tiny loss of torque below 2500. After 2500 it takes off like a rocket. The idle chop sounds so good. Been trouble free for 30k km

I have Belltech 25004 struts on my 2018. They do use the stock coils. They ride better than the factory Ranchos and have lasted 40k miles. Nice truck!

Taking the resonator off will cause some droning. Removing the 3rd cat will make it slightly louder. If you are doing it yourself, add the Carven first. If it’s not loud enough remove the cat. Still not loud enough? Remove the resonator. If it’s a shop doing it, take everything off and add the Carven. Worst case you have to put a resonator back in. I have 1 3/4” headers with race cats and custom dual exhaust. It’s loud as heck, but I love it. She drones like a queen bee, but not at a frequency that bugs me. We have taken it on a few 12 hour drives. Wife loves it

I have a chunky cam in my 6.2L. It’s easier to do the cam with the engine out of the truck. Then you have access to the converter as well. Sounds like you need to change it any way. The cam will burn more fuel. More power = more fuel. I gained 25% more power and it burns 25% more fuel in city driving. On the highway it’s better, but still uses more than stock. I get 18L/100km city and 11L/100km highway. 13 mpg city/ 21 mpg highway. It is fun and sounds mean. Worth it

Ordered this thermostat from Amazon. Came in this unmarked box just raw dogging around. They couldn’t even bag it. It is stamped with the GM logo and the correct part number. Does this part look like it’s AC Delco, or some cheap knockoff?

Stock opens at 90 C. Something is wrong inside the tranny. Most likely torque converter, like you said. If the fans came on and it cooled off, then the bypass valve opened. Just opened too late for some reason. 150 C is way too hot, you probably cooked all of the seals. Probably gonna need a rebuild. If I was getting a rebuild done I would put an aftermarket converter in. They are built better. Also get the 70 degree TBV

150 Celsius? Or F? If the trans hit 150 C it’s probably toast. The “bypass delete” will work in Canada. I ran with the pill flipped for 30000 km here in Alberta. I now have the updated TBV that opens at 70 degrees. Tranny works better when it’s -30 out

There is no way you got +150 torque unless it’s boosted. The curve is also suspiciously flat. 400 torque from 2000 rpm? 5.3 with heavy wheels, lol! I don’t believe that. This is my 6.2L with a BTR cam

There are some companies that make lowering springs. One guy on here is running Deaver leafs. If you installed the flip kit with your stock spring shackles it will only be 4" lower in the back. To go to a 6" drop you need to use lowering shackles. This might be your issue, and its way cheaper than new springs

Running the stock converter. It is too tight. Almost have enough saved for a higher stall. When engine and trans are cold it chugs hard and tries to push through the brakes. When at operating temp it’s better. I daily drive it though and have 10k miles on the setup. I would recommend this cam

1) Yes, that is the correct size 2) Get the stock stall. If you increase the stall speed you may not like how it drives. You will also need a transmission tune 3) No, you don’t need it with stock power

I don't have a stall yet. That's next on the mod list. Going to do a 3000 or whatever Davenport recommends. My cam wakes up at 2500 and pulls like stink until shifting at 6100. Trans is stock except the thermal bypass valve. I was running the pill flip until yesterday, then I bought the updated GM part that opens at a lower temp. Lots of info on this site about that mod. 8L90's will take more than 600. There isn't much good info about our trucks online, but I go on the Camaro/Corvette forums to look for mods and info. Any Camaro/Corvette with an "A8" is the exact transmission the trucks get, the 8L90. Their engine is called LT1 but it is 95% the same as the L86. Most mods for them work for us. I know what you mean about the "holding the gear" thing. My truck did the same thing stock. It's a dumb fuel saving algorithm in the tranny's programming. It's trying not to downshift to save gas, until you floor it then the trans goes "OK! you want it, you got it". There is also flex in the gas pedal. Earlier trucks, like yours, are made of flimsy plastic that actually move when you push the pedal. So when you are pushing the pedal down the throttle position doesn't change as much as it should. There are fixes on here like the "paint stick mod" or you can get the newer pedal. When you get a proper tune most of that lag will go away when they adjust the throttle response and fine tune the tranny for performance. My mistake about Blackbear. Last time I checked EFI Live didn't support the 8L90. They must have added that. I know of a couple guys with Player3 tunes in their Gen 5 trucks. They are from Edmonton and I have heard good things. I will highly recommend Davenport. They did my cam and tuning, and I will be going back for a converter this year. They are one of the best in Canada, if not the best, at modifying and tuning late model GM products. They specialize in Camaros and Corvettes, but, our trucks are almost exactly the same.

Bought the new valve, 86774933. Tried to install on my 8L90 but the housing itself is about 3/4" shorter than the stock one. The lines were too short to reach so they were not lining up square to the hole. I could have used a tubing bender to massage them into the proper orientation, but that would have been a lot of work under the truck. I swapped the internal parts over to the stock housing. The machining on the new housing was not very good. Lots of burrs, nicks and scratches. Also where they cut the "tubes" that go into the trans there was a .015" mismatch where they over cut into the body. I'm a machinist and this really irked me, lol. Went for an hour drive and the hottest it got was 68C (154F). Outside temp was 15C (59F). I was driving it hard on some backroads outside of town at highway speeds, then about 20 minutes home in stop and go traffic. Temp would stay at 68 then drop to 65, climb to 68 and so on. I'm happy with the new temp. This should be better than the pill flip in winter because it gets cold here.

I have a 6.2, 8 speed, cammed and tuned. Judging by your concerns, a higher stall torque converter will wake it up and get rid of most of the complaints. Sounds like your tuner doesn't know Gen 5 stuff. I'm just going to follow your list of concerns. -Yes. You can tune them to have great throttle response. 8 speeds shift quick from factory but you can make them shift faster. -Sonnax makes aftermarket internal parts for the 6/8 speeds. Check them out -Torque management keeps the trans safe by cutting timing during shifts. A good tuner will know how much to safely remove. These 8L90's are very robust, they will take a lot of torque. -Don't know what you mean by this: It holds whatever gear it’s in at 2500rpm until well over 3/4 throttle?! -Yes, it's possible to tune it and make it enjoyable to drive. I love my 8 speed now. -Blackbear can't tune 8 speeds. Learning HP Tuners and doing it yourself will take a while, and you have to know what you are doing. Don't buy a Ford, just turbo the 6.2, lol. Manual swap would be very cool, but it would be super expensive. Call Davenport Motorsports here in Calgary, AB. Not to far from you. Very easy going and will steer you in the right direction. Their tuner knows Gen 5's. It's not cheap but they know what they are doing.

If your tune is set up right the DIC calculation will be close. HP tuners has a bunch of settings for injectors. The injector manufacturer will give you specs to input into the tune. My truck is heavily modified with a cam, headers etc., and my DIC reading is within 5% of my manual calculation

You need HP Tuners or EFI Live. Custom tune all the way. There is no handheld "device" that can tune for those mods.