GravelPitsYew

Hey bro, I made an install video using your specs since I could've used an install video prior to tackling my hardwire installation and I gave you a shoutout and linked to this thread (as it's the only one I could find on the interwebs about hardwiring dashcams into this truck). Works great, thanks! I'm sure I'll get some auto/alarm electricians all riled up over it, but your chosen fuses works for me! Here's the link in case it helps anyone else ...

So from the consensus of this thread so far, F3 (garage door opener) fuse plus F22 (heated wheel) fuse are working for everyone? Then, also run the rear cam wire along driver side (instead of passenger side) as to not mess with TPMS sensors, etc., correct?

Good question. I might take my passenger fuse panel off before I install my next dashcam, let my buddy drive down the street and stop to initiate "Auto Start/Stop" as I jump out the passenger door with a voltage tester to test all the available powered fuses during "Auto Start/Stop". Just bought a new Thinkware U1000 on black friday, but wrapped it up for my wife to give me at Xmas.

2020 Silverado 1500 Z71 standard bed, simple 1.5" motofab lower strut spacers, and Toyo Open Country M/T 275/70r18 (33.2x10.8) on 18" method NV -11 offset, no rubbing issues, almost level (only 1/8 lower in front [measuring ground to fender well]). Note, if you buy any of Motofab's lower strut spacer level kits, and have a 2019+ aluminum lower control arm, the supplied bolts are too short. Motofab said they are working on it and offered me longer bolts, but I was in a hurry, turned them down, they offered me a t-shirt, turned them down lol, just bought some bolts at home depot. You'll need 3.5" bolts for the 1.5" level kit (technically, 3.5" long, 3/8" dia., grade 8 or better, sz 16 nut). Only the toe angle was out of alignment afterwards, which I had aligned. Would've got wider tires + less knobby, but got wheels + tires for a huge bargain from some rich dude who only used them for 1500 miles. Anyhow, dig it! Cybertruck who? Any higher it'll be hard to put dirt bikes in the back!

Superlift has pretty good instructions with torque specs for their 2019-2020 2" leveling kit (under strut spacers). PDF attached... Also, found the Readylift 2" Lower Strut Kit has torque specs in theirs as well. 40040.pdf

Holy hell, I had a great time (not!) doing this portion. Anyhow, I don't know how a simple man gets underneath the green Body Connector 2 box to swap the pin connectors with their fingers either, but I pulled it off. 1. Harness kit lone wire pin connector: First, I had to peel back a few inches on the harness kit's plastic casing around the lone wire to get enough "lone" wire up into the green box.To feed in the new wire pin from underneath up into the green connector box, I pried apart it's plastic sleeve casing opening underneath and fed the wire up into the green box. 2. Once you free the 4 tabs on the green box and lift it up the mere .75" you can then "UNLOCK" THE WHITE PORTION OF THE GREEN BOX (shown with arrow in this photo, and was the big turning point once I figured that out) which is actually 2 separate locks for the pin connectors (one the front, one for rear of the green box). You wedge a small flathead screwdriver in and pry it open. For the B3 connector do it on the side closest to car battery. 3. To release the B3 pin connector that's currently in the B3 position, (if you don't have a "wire connector removal tool") insert 2 small paperclip ends into the B3 opening from the top of the green block and push down equally to release the pin clips holding it in. I had to use both the paperclips and then a very small screwdriver to push down in the center to free the wire pin altogether at once. 4. There was still no way for me to get underneath to plug in the new pin connector, as it's so tight, so I ended up feeding a small string down the B3 connector cavity from above the green box, gathering it from underneath and tying it to the new pin connector to be inserted. I pulled up on the string from above the B3 cavity and at same time I kept it straight using a very small flathead screwdriver going down thru the top of the B3 cavity (screwdriver fits into the wire pin) to guide it up. Once the wire connector was 1/4 in the hole the correct angle I cut the string and then used needle-nose pliers to grab and lift the wire connector up until it clicked into position. Hope this helps! I was at a loss until I figured out the white locking portion of the green box.

Negative of adjustable Bilstein 5100's are that anything other than their stock shock height setting raises issues. The notches for the raised height's can break and your truck will drop wherever you are at. I've also had issues with Bilsteins completely leaking fluid and they claim it's normal for that to happen and won't replace. Done with Bilstein.

On the UEC, how did you pull the green "body 2 connector" so far apart to be able to see underneath it/access it? According to your photo here, mine is pulling away maybe 1/3 the distance as yours.

Thanks for reply. 4 closest dealers want $180-225 for the BCM flash. Gen5diy asks $165 for the diy "off high beam" harness...so dealer sounds like a better option.

I just bought the OEM fog light kit for 2019/2020 SIlverado. From the kit, if I install the new dash buttons module in the cab, install the wiring/harness and I don't go to dealer right away to flash the BCM portion, will the newly installed dash buttons work right away (minus the fog lights button)? Wondering if I'll still be able to run the new headlights button to drive at night until I take the truck in to the dealer to do the BCM flash. Basically, I want to install myself and take to dealer at my convenience, but also drive at night in the meantime. Second question, do the fog lights work right after install without flashing the BCM (as in, is the BCM flash only to get the dashboard cluster light to start working), or no (the BCM flash is what gets the lights + cluster to work)?

Question: I just bought the fog light kit. If I install the new dash buttons module, install all the wiring/harness/everything and I don't go to dealer right away to flash the BCM portion, will the new dash buttons still work (minus the fog lights button)? Just wondering if I'll still be able to press the headlights button to drive at night until I take the truck in to dealer to do the BCM crap. BTW, I was quoted from closest 4 dealers $180-225 just for BCM flash (with me doing the harness install). I almost went the Gen5diy route ($165 for "off high-beam" harness before tax) but it's about the same cost so going the dealer route.

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I only got the truck last weekend so I'm still under 200 miles. So far the thing shifts smooth! Way better than my 6-spd 5.7L tundra. Power-wise, I know the tundra has 380hp but this 355hp seems faster, maybe it's just the added shifts enabling it to shift sooner between gears. I've been watching the "TFL Truck" youtube page and they had the 8-spd beating the 10-spd in 1/4-mile race, just an fyi. I do really hope this thing lasts without that issue. Only time/miles will tell.

I just ordered the fog light kit, for $221.25 total (cheapest) at shopchevyparts.com. https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2020-silverado-1500-led-front-fog-light-package-models-without-task-lighting-set-lights/84125494-p-92305775.html Same kit as from Chevy direct. They have another version "with task lighting" as well. Now to find a dealer to do it for me since if it's only $135 install (listed above) that's worth it for me to not hassle with the lengthy instructions.

BTW, I have the 5.3L Silverado 1500 LT Z71 crew cab, std box.

Hey guys, I just came off 12 years in a Tundra Crewmax that I nursed + only drove about 6-7k per year...then engine failure at 85k! Lost my loyalty and now I'm back in my first truck brand from high school, Chevy. Anyhow, I know there's a lawsuit from Silverado 1500 2014-2019 8-speed transmissions (model 8L90/M5U), but wondering if that has 1) been remedied for 2020 models, and 2) is that for both RWD + 4WD models (was reading the lawsuit and said "rear-wheel-drive" models but every 4WD is rear-wheel most of the time so I'm assuming same tranny)? So far my new 5/3L w/ 8-speed DFM drives great! Smooth gearing, way better than my tundra 6-spd in that dept. Did I just buy a lemon in the making?