Kclyatt

Changed out the oiled filter for a AFE Pro Dry S filter.

Give my diy repair a try...scan back couple of pages for pics. I’m leak free 5+ months now!

Gen 5 diy harness and blend mount for my R7 as well

I chose the retrax pro mx in matte

Both....This is a seal between the spoiler bottom edge and the window gap. I already applied silicone on top just like the TSB the dealership would have done except I did not remove the spoiler. I cut the tip of the 3M silicone tube (I used 2 total/small one not the caulk gun type) and laid the bead above the window frame 4 months ago (still leak free) and this is just an extra precaution. I felt the need to eliminate any water getting to the window seam would be best for long term. I also applied the same marine seal on the roof between the cab and the spoiler ( see my previous post page 203). I know my work and it's satisfying to know that given time and some care you can seal your window up and save the hassle of warranty work mistakes and damage.

This seal should finally put the leak issue to behind me and this is the same I used on top with the spoiler/cab gap. Seal gives water no chance to run down spoiler and sit on top of the window trim which develops cracks and allows water in. I could use warranty but (after 204 pages currently of leaks) the warranty is about 50/50 on correcting this issue and for me this is easily reversible if it doesn't work. All in $16 total for 3M silicone (sealed window and 3rd brake light) and one roll of the marine seal. Total time of 15 minutes and 1 day cure for the silicone and approx. 45 minutes for the seal which seems like a fair trade vs. going the dealership route and getting frustrated, crappy work, lost time, etc.!

I used this and peeled back the strip covering the adhesive side slightly and once tucked in I then pulled the strip and used trim tool to even out all areas.

Update....Few months into sealing my rear glass and happy to report no further leaks. I recently sealed up my spoiler as a added guarantee because as we can see GM does not have our best interests in mind. I used door trim from Lowes and this particular type has ridges to help with the trim tool to push into the tight space and also has adhesive on the back to hold into place once set. The third brake light I used clear silicone (same type 3M) since that gap was too tight for trim. Hope my enthusiasm to prevent future leaks helps another in this exclusive club of leakers!

I used a sawzall before and after stock muffler and used exhaust hangar pliers I bought specifically for this project. Installed GM performance exhaust and fit perfectly and sounds good too!

I went with Rotofab as well and fit and finish are spot on.

Decided to have a look inside both the 63E and 63R...R has thicker can and tighter media and metal end caps. E has the core and ultrasonic end cap installed and can was thinner.Visually the R wins this contest but the E definitely matches the super tech filters inside and out.

Changed out the wheel caps and removed the wheel locks...more trouble than they are worth sometimes.

Same overspray with the platinum...what are the odds?

Another friend suggested Wix/Napa gold and this is right out of the package...overspray inspiring confidence that surprises me. Seems Mann-Hummel takeover has effected quality down in Mexico!

I second the automotive touch up...ordered the 1/2oz jar of color (Satin Steel) and another of clear with a pack of the micro dabbers...perfect match!

I am amazed that the 6.2l filter from AC Delco (PF63E) is exactly identical inside and out to the Walmart cheap Super Tech ST 10575 (Bob is the oil guy). Also there are 50/50 opinions on the quality of the E core filters and with so many options out there I am curious what is everyone using for their ride? I currently am thinking going with the Purolator Boss PBL22500 based on cut open filter pics, specs and reviews. I want best filter for the engine/longevity especially with DFM and the AC Delco seems ok but what do others think?

Take a look at the service bulletin here: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154649-9999.pdf I have used Daubert NOX-Rust X-121B Aerosol for touch ups and its a close match and wax like but slightly glossier. Don't use fluid film as others in this forum has discovered its not compatible and softens/peels/flakes the factory dip coating off.

I checked same thing after CEL with numerous codes at only 83 miles! All 4 were not even close to the 53 in/lb torque.....and at one point I had to recheck the torque setting because it was 6-8 full turns per bolt before the wrench clicked! If you don't have in/lb wrench just give it a go with 1/4 inch drive ratchet and tighten each an alternating number of turns until they stop to ensure an even seating. Another possibility and more difficult to find: GM is having issues in the fleet with chaffing/rubbing/cut wiring harnesses in the engine bay.

Seems to be a part/box mix-up because that appears to be the one for the HD pickup tailgate!

I’ve joined the leak club-6/20 build date Denali with slider E4 fuyao leak on passenger side with only 770 miles and no off roading or towing yet. After staying up to date on this entire thread I decided to tackle myself with painters tape on spoiler and glass edge and I used good old GE advanced silicone. Didn’t remove spoiler just cut tip to fit in groove and slowly filled (flows easily) until the top of glass edge. Removed tape and cleaned any residue with iso alcohol. Totally invisible repair and no issues with banged up trim or scratched paint. Longevity who knows but at least it’s leak free and easily removed if leaks again.

Each state is different however I think the basic premise of the lemon law is the vehicle must have a "significant" issue that cant be repaired. I am not sure paint blemishes and misaligned doors would qualify but a braking issue or steering or another safety defect would certainly qualify.