mrjulian416

There was a TSB for the 2020's and some 21's about brake squeal at low speeds. TSB called for updated pads to be installed, but only within a certain mile range. If I recall, owners reported that this fixed the squeal, but only for a short period of time. I'm wondering if the 23-24's are experiencing any brake noise issues.. or have the very, very latest pads solved the (annoying) problem?

230 deg engine coolant temp seems very high even when towing. The cooling package should be able to keep temps around the 210 mark unless you are in very high ambient temps and pulling long hills.

Ain't that the truth

So from time to time we all see GM Customer Service post on a thread that they are disappointed that someone is having trouble with their truck and to reach out to them for further assistance. Has anyone ever received real help on an issue by reaching out to the GM Customer Service account after they showed up in a thread?

Gastrohman... did your dealer ever figure this noise out?

If you're out of warranty, you're probably out of luck to get them working again short of replacement. I was keeping an eye on these guys to see if they came out with updated parts for the new style mirrors, but since I had both replaced under warranty I'm "good for now", and haven't contacted them in a while: GM Power mirror gears/motors

That guy clearly needs a catch can.

C/K Man Exactly right... which is why a catch can is really a psychological improvement to valve deposits and not really an empirical one. High quality gas, and frequent oil changes is the answer. Not a can that collects mostly water vapor and mixes it with a little oil.

The passenger side tube is the "fresh air" line allowing clean, metered air a path into/out of the engine. It is not a "foul air" line letting blowby out of the engine. There is much higher vacuum after the throttle plate than inside the resonator box. It might be interesting to see what you catch in a can on that line, but I'd be surprised if it's the same stuff as you catch on the driver's side tube. Can makers are always happy to show the pics of X tablespoons of nasty liquid collected in Y miles. But there is never any indication of how many MORE tablespoons of stuff weren't captured in those Y miles. Does a can have an effect on what gets sucked back into the intake? Yes. Does it have a meaningful effect? Ehhhh..... As far as engineering/science based insight into the need/effectiveness of catch cans, this technical research summary is a very interesting read. Considerations on Carbon Deposit Formation in Gasoline Direct Injection Engine The conclusions of the study basically indicate: intake valve carbon deposit formation is worse under lighter load than heavy (counterintuitive to blowby being a primary cause) it is not related to blowby gasses in the intake (ah hah!, which as part of the testing were completely blocked off from entering the intake) indications are oil degradation is contributing, potentially due to effects in the combustion chamber, which at light load can and will see chamber gasses circulate back out of and into open valves during an intake cycle (reversion) In other words, catch cans don't help. Instead change your synthetic oil frequently. But if adding a can helps you sleep better, then by all means. Or add two. The presence of a few tablespoons of nasty looking liquid in Y miles doesn't mean that liquid was your only problem. Aaannnnddd.... whether GDI or MPFI, makes no difference to what flows through the PCV breather tubes. You'll see the same stuff in a can on either type of engine.

My 2021 with the 6 speed does the exact same thing. It's only happens when the truck is cold, but is worse when the ambient temp is warmer/hotter... if that makes sense. It does it for 10-15 secs, is worse when in gear, not moving, just like what your videos show. It goes away quickly when I being to drive off, and never returns until it has sat for several hours. I was wondering if it was transmission related, but with the same issue in your 10 speed tells me it most likely is not.

Just serviced my transfer case this past weekend. The plugs do not have magnets. Both differential fill plugs do. I don't have drain plugs on my diffs (2021 MY).

Installed the one the OP posted. Even did the cargo net mod, great suggestion by the way. Easy job, good fit, tons more room than stock. The only problem I have is, being a typical garage-full-of-spare-parts-hoarder, I'm having a hard time tossing the factory unit in the trash... or finding a high shelf to put it on "in case I need it someday"... heh.

I've been through this on both sides now. About a year and a half ago the passenger side would stick intermittently, could be either opening or closing. Of course when dropping if off at the dealer service desk, the mirror worked fine. They kept it for the day to test but of course they "couldn't replicate the problem". I got lucky when picking up the truck from the service advisor when the mirror jammed right in front of him. It did take about 2 weeks for the dealer service manager talking back and forth with "GM regional" to finally get approval to replace the mirror under warranty. As soon as I folded the mirrors with the new one on the passenger side, there was a noticeable difference in speed and sound between the smooth, silent new one and the slow, groaning driver's mirror. Jump forward to about a month ago. Driver's side mirror has gotten slower and 'groanier'. Every morning I would video it unfolding to try to catch it sticking. It finally happened and I got it on video. Took it in to the same dealer. Different service advisor. I hit the button to demonstrate the bad mirror, of course it works fine. But... the advisor says he can immediately tell the motors are bad and it needs replaced. No questions, no arguments, no "we'll see if we can replicate". Done. Driver's mirror was replaced yesterday, works smooth, quiet, fast. Lucky... as it has 35,820 miles and 35 months 18 days on it. If your mirrors are sticking or are slow and noisy.. and you have warranty coverage... take it in. Get it on video if you can. But at ~$1k each, don't take no for an answer.

I don't have them on my '21 2500, but I do have them on my '00 1500. HUGE difference and no impact to the daily drive ride or performance on the old truck. Only reason I haven't put them on the 2500 is because I haven't had a need since the new truck handles the 8.5k boat/trailer easily compared to the old 1500. If I ever get a slide-in or we go the 5th wheel route, I will definitely be installing them on the 2500.

Dude.... we've been waiting a year for you... where've you been?!

I would assume it's like the 6.2... not an easy thing to find/replace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seAEJ1PhPeU

My only frame of reference is my '00 Sierra 1500. Quiet, competent work from the blower/fan in any setting. This thing sounds like the ducts are plugged and kinda feels like it too. I was guessing it is "normal" and sounds like it might be. Thanks for the input.

2021 GMC 2500- First really cold day of the year around here. I hop in, drive off, and once engine temp comes up, I crank the heat to HI, push the "floor only" button, and crank the fan knob to max. There a huge whooshing/fan noise coming from right under the center of the dash, right below the dash organizer "tray". It basically sounds like the defroster is blasting but it's not. The air flow in the footwell is.... 'ok', but not like a blazing wind cooking my feet and rising up my legs. When I put my hand down by the air outlets by the pedals, it feels like each of the openings is flowing freely, but.... are these fans/ducts just that loud? or is there a possible stuck mode door? or?

It's called a fakra connector. So a web search and you should be able to find what you need.

I just did the mod over the weekend. Not that I was worried about fluid leaks, but for all the reasons mentioned above... ease of checking fluid condition, ease of partial fluid changes, etc. Tube and dipstick from Rock Auto, grommet from local dealer, flange nut from local Ace HW. My only piece of advice: I found it much easier to get the tube in place by snaking it up from underneath rather than trying to get it in place coming from the top down. I have no idea how guys got it in there trying to weave it in from above. I spent 10 mins trying to do so without gouging the firewall heat blanket, snagging wires, pushing hoses out of the way, etc. Tried from underneath and had it in place in 30 seconds.

Over a total of 35k miles, I have never reset "trip 2" on the odometer. Combined calculated is 15.1. That includes around town, highway trips, occasional moderate and heavy towing. I also glance at the "last 25" calculated mileage from time to time. Around town that will be 11-12.5. On highway that will be 18-20.5. Towing... just don't look. Of course, your mileage may vary, literally.

Was that a change with the 24 MY?

Start of the video shows elevation to be sea level. Anybody know a 0-60 time for the 6 speed that wasn't at elevation?

You tell them you are having a hard 2-1 downshift. And then you give them the TSB mentioned in this thread which says even without reproducing the problem, they should replace the transmission thermostat.

Dear God, does this forum not have any moderators? Time to hand out some time outs and save the rest of us from the horror.