mrjulian416

Well, I'll concede to what that chart says, but at 70mph it sure didn't rev like it dropped two gears.

At higher speeds it stays in the gear it's in when you shift to L. You can then drop that gear by hitting the "-" button, but only if the computer agrees you will not over rev by doing so.

Take a look at Timbren. No air, no springs/linkages, no real affect on unloaded ride. I used them on my '00 SLE and when towing at max rating the affect was amazing. No sway, no excessive squat. When unloaded you only knew they were there when you hit a decent bump at speed, and that was just a quick 'jounce' as the rear suspension flexed.

I just did a google search for what you are looking for. First result was "buy a Tahoe". I kid, I kid...

You can now build and price the 2022's on the gmc web site. Bucket seats not available below SLT trim level.

Thanks for the feedback. My theories align with yours... either not that big a deal to begin with, or it can't hurt.

I don't think you get the "basic" for free anymore. Just a 30 day free-trial and then you have to start paying for any real functionality. I know I didn't get anything other than that with my purchase in Jan of this year.

Any updates on this issue?

My plan has been to change oil/filter every 5k, and maybe use this stuff every 10k. I'm coming up on 10k miles so I'm curious if anyone has used this intake cleaner, or one like it, on a 6.6. Seems pretty simple/straightforward to apply, using the PCV line, and reviews and independent you-tube videos would indicate it does something beneficial. Anyone tried it? CRC GDI Cleaner

I saw that episode before I bought. I don't put much stock in it. While I understand why they run that test the way they do, to remove driver variability (put it in tow mode, put your foot to the floor, steer), no one would actually do that in reality. They uncovered a programming flaw with the transmission that for some reason wouldn't down shift when needed. It bogged down to something like 25 mph before it downshifted. Not good, but not representative of what any actual driver would do. If I ever needed to tow up that hill at max rating, I'd lock out the top 2 gears... or at the very least, pump the gas when it bogs down like that and force a downshift. If they had done either of those two things there would not have been a 3 minute difference.

Like many, before I owned one I thought the multi-pro was a gimmick. I use it all the time and with a truck this tall I would not want one without it. Just like 99NCAA, I drop the inner gate about 100% of time to get closer to the bed, or to quickly drop the step to get in/out. I'm not one to leave a hitch installed when not in use, so that issue is not an issue for me at least.

I can't imagine the 5th wheel/gooseneck package would affect ride quality. It's essentially a plate welded to the frame rails. There must be something else going on with tires, tire pressure, or...?

That is a cool idea. Did you find a good weatherproof switch as well? Rozz, I like the idea of a diode as well... just in case.

Large pair of channel-locks works pretty good too.

I'm not enough of an automotive electronics experts to know if this would cause unintended problems... To add a switch in the bed to turn on just an in-bed light, what if: You teed into the 12v+ off the 7-pin trailer connector (always hot), and ran that 12v+ feed to a toggle switch mounted somewhere handy in the bed (like near the old man handle on my GMC), then ran the output of the switch into a tee connector with the existing positive feed going to the existing bed light (there by the old man handle). So you flip the toggle switch and basically bypass the dash switch/control and at least put power to the light you've teed into. No LED strip lights to hang, no holes to cut, but.... Does backfeeding the original line to the dash switch cause problems upstream with the dash electronics/etc? In the good old analog/incandescent world I can't see that this would be a problem. In the LED, solid-state, op-amp, circuit card, BCM/ECM world I'm not so sure. Thoughts? And I'm not sure I'm signing up to "try it and report back"... heh.

Here's my write up on my initial tow with the 6.6 gas. I think you'll find this truck/engine just right for what you are describing... www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/248308-towed-the-boat-for-the-first-time

You're right in that the diesel will always out pull the large gas engine offerings. You are also right in that you aren't buying a gas 3/4 ton truck for the 50 extra HP/TQ numbers. For people on the fence, you go with a 3/4 ton for the "everything is bigger/more stable". The 6.6 is cast iron block, forged crank, more cooling capacity, more oiling capacity, etc than the 6.2. It's made not for speed but for longevity running at/near its peak power output at 4k rpm. The suspension, frame, brakes, axles, curb weight are substantially "more" than a 1/2 ton of any flavor. While the 1/2 ton can tow 8000lbs "no problem", the difference when towing 8000lbs in a 3/4 ton is night and day on any road or incline... starting or stopping. And towing 11000lbs with a 6.2 1/2 ton? I'm sure the brochure says "sure", but no thanks. With the gas 3/4, towing at the max conventional rating of 14500 means you are still really 4000lbs BELOW what the chassis, brakes, frame, suspension, tires can handle, which means stability and control (diesel 3/4 rated for 18500). And the topic that often gets forgotten when talking tow ratings... payload. The 1/2 ton with 6.2 appears to be about 2100lbs (a little lower than the 5.3 interestingly). 3/4 ton is 3700lbs. All that extra tongue weight, spouse, youngest son, older daughter, and daughter's boyfriend adds up faster than people think when you put an 8000lb camper on the bumper of the 1/2 ton. The 6.6 also lacks a few things you get on the 5.3/6.2, such as AFM/DFM, auto-start/stop, no add on modules or gizmos needed. The reason you don't see the big three releasing HD truck gas engines with monster power/torque numbers is because at the end of the day the engine still needs to meet tailpipe AND noise emissions (noise not just muffler noise, but total noise), still get a realistic mileage number, and have the "HD longevity". Fleet sales drive gas HD sales, and fleet buyers don't care about 0-60 times. You won't see the rumored 8.1 in the 2500/3500 trucks for these reasons, primarily the mileage and emissions limits. Of course someone could bolt on several aftermarket mods to their 6.6 and "unleash the latent power" of their engine, but then all four of those factory designed attributes are off the table.

As I once said in another thread on here somewhere, the GM and the Ford gas 3/4 tons have "essentially" the same towing, payload, mileage, and engine performance numbers. Would a 10 speed improve the GM's? Probably. Is the 6 speed a reason to not consider it since the Ford has a 10 speed? Not that I can ever see/understand. The GM 6 speed is one of the most reliable transmissions GM ever made (and for the new HD application they added clutch packs and an improved TC). The new Ford 10 speed is now seeing a "recall-not-really-a-recall" for a substantial number of 2020 MY trucks.

I bought the same thing (from Lowes). It is a perfect fit. And yes, there is usually dirt, dust (or rain water) on it when I pull it off to fill up. I just set it to the side of the fill neck while pumping... or sometimes use it to hold open the filler handle at a station that cut the little handle latches off.

In my experience, with the gas engine, you have to be in tow/haul mode for "grade braking" to come on. When in tow/haul, I've noticed the truck will apply engine braking even on level ground, whether loaded or not.

That is a female fakra connector.

You need the 2 1/2". It fits around the outside of the receiver.

What's the story with the EPA?

Get one of these. Toss the hose clamp. Fits perfect. 2" Cap

There's a raptor owner who actually goes off road? I kid, I kid....