richard wysong

Welcome to the forum! With that amount of miles on it it is due for a complete rebuild. Could be excess bearing clearances causing the low OP. Might be more economical to look for a parts truck than an engine or try LKQ yard if there is 1 in your area

Going Up- $2.99 local now, $3.06 on the highway

remove the fan then unbolt and remove the shroud then you will have plenty of room to remove the cooling lines from the radiator

Factory service manual or AllDatadiy. Some NAPA stores subscribe to AllData and may print it out for you. Another reason to patronize your local non chain parts store

It is not the engine itself but the sensors that control the fuel mixture. Are you swapping complete engines or just long blocks and using the original manifolds, sensors and accessories? Sounds like you may be running too rich causing the substrate to melt down

Up to $2.93

Cats don't die on their own, they are murdered by the way the engine runs.

That's what I'm afraid of. I really don't want to switch the dash harnesses, more trouble than it's worth if that's the case but I will google it and see if there's anything on utube. I'm sure I could wire up the windows to work but the master would not operate the passenger side that way so it kinda defeats the purpose. I paid $500 for the parts truck, runs and drives, 4wd, but rusty. I bought it more for the front bumper assembly and related parts to repair collision damage that occured before I bought the 2500 so anything extra I can use off it is a bonus. Boneyard will pay $600 for it when I'm done so good deal all around!

Thanks Roger, I will check that out

My 04 2500 HD WT is a non power widow/ locks truck, I just purchased an 04 1500 truck for parts that is loaded. I have no problem changing the guts of the doors but my question is, how difficult is it to wire it all up under the dash, Is it worth my time or should I keep my hands in my pockets? I really miss the power windows and locks the 98 had

Yep, my shop clock has been an hour slow all winter, it's finally correct again but I was confused and left an hour early today. Might be old age settin in

neutral switch maybe? check at the starter relay for a signal from the ignition switch. also see if jumping the terminals at the relay will get it to turn over

The flashing CEL indicates a misfire. A good scan tool will tell you which cylinder(s) are misfiring then you can start diagnosing the cause. I would start by changing the plugs and checking the compression on the affected cylinders. If the misfire still exists after that try swapping the coils around and see if the mis follows the coil. Welcome to the forum! The EVAP and ABS problems will NOT cause a misfire

$9k seems like a lot for a 20 year old truck. i paid $2600 for my 04 2500 hd 2 years ago with about the same mileage. Other than repairing the gauges in the instrument panel I have had 0 problems so far but I am getting some vibration from the rear diff now so time to do the bearings more than likely. My rocker panels are getting soft on the back side and frame rot can be a problem if you live where they salt the roads so pay a local garage to put it up on the lift and do a pre-purchase inspection. Welcome to the Forum!

Do a close inspection up front, the frames rust from the inside out so it may look ok but have no strength

Holding steady here, still $2.89 local. Higher every where else

Sounds like your mechanic replaced the wrong sensor first go round

It may be toward the front of the tank, stick your hand up there and see if you can feel it. The FP is in the middle of the tank so the hatch may not help. Bed removal is not as hard as it sounds, Unbolt it and just prop the left side up high enough to work on it

If you go back to the last post in the first page of this thread there is a TSB number, where you are having the same problem it would be worth reading the entire thread, that way it will appear you know what you are talking about when you take it in for the repair

It's the valve body in the trans,

Sadly almost all of the drive-ins here in the northeast are long gone. Kids will never understand what they are missing. Some of my earliest memories are being with my parents in the 58 Rambler wagon at the local drive-in and my Dad laughing at the cartoons. Then as a teenager date nights or just the guys and a bunch of beer. Sure do miss those times. During Covid pop-up drive-ins appeared but it wasn't a big success

Thanks Roger, years of experience. I ran into a car a few years back that the alternator bracket lost it's ground despite being tightly bolted to the block, took a couple of new alternators and a bunch of head scratching to figure it out so now I check every time before condemning the alternator. A quick test with a test light is usually all thats needed

Try running jumper cables or wires between the alternator output and the battery and between the alternator body and battery negative and I bet 1 of them cures the problem. That will point you in the right diagnostic direction

gassed up at my local station this am that has the lowest prices that I've seen, They were up 4cents from the other day to $2.89 for 87. When I commented to the owner he said he was trying to start a price war with the other local stations but had no takers so he went up. Local speedway $2.97 with rewards card others $2.99 or more

Let us know when you get the pump off if it was just the bearing or some other failure. Sounds like something might have got caught in the impeller