richard wysong

Maybe the recirculate door closing?

Why would you want to have Big Brother looking over your shoulder and being charged for that. Most posts I've seen here are how to disable it. I believe there is a kit for non GM vehicles that would work

I believe that is the repair kit for plastic lines but let us know if it indeed replaces the metal lines

Use steel lines. find a clean area on the old lines on the engine end after the flex hoses and cut there with a tubing cutter.Splice the new lines in with compression unions. on the tank end they make line repair kits for the special ends in the quick releases that also splice in with compression unions. Its easier to unbolt the bed and prop it up to do this than dropping the tank. If you do opt for rubber hose make sure it is fuel injection hose rated for 100 psi, Working pressure is 50-60 psi

The conspiracy theorists and the disinformation on the web will make Covid a concern for years to come because they refuse to believe that science is real and the vaccines are a government plot. Eventually it will be like AIDS, still present but no more publicity. It is hard for me to fathom the number of folks who believe everything they read or hear is the gospel truth

Yep, when a compressor grenades it is impossible to remove the debris from the system so most components need to be replaced and a filter installed on the compressor intake to catch any remaining debris. that filter may clog rapidly depending on how much debris is still in the system

A scan tool that does body codes should be all that is needed to check it That is crazy $, the actuator is less than $100 and about an hour to change. Sounds like your garage is sending you down the road because they do not know how to fix it after taking your $. I'm not sure if the parts store scanners do body codes but it's worth asking.

That is just the gauge on the can, you need to know high side pressures as well. Are any of the pipes going to the evaporator cold? Did you vacuum the system before refilling after replacing the parts? it is possible the blend door actuator is broken not allowing the cold air into the cabin if the lowside pipe is cold. Did you fill the compressor and replace any oil lost with the condenser change.

What are the pressures with the compressor running? First thing that comes to mind is that you have a leak and it's low on freon. Why did you replace the compressor? Did it grenade? You should have changed the accumulator and orifice tube and flushed the evaporator if there was ANY signs of debris in the system. If you don't have a set of refrigerant gauges run down to harbor freight or go online and get a set. Another possibility is the system has been overfilled but without knowing the pressures we would just be guessing

Zero turn is the way to go, once you have used 1 you won't want a conventional

diyer2 MIA? maybe on vakay? I always look forward to his posts to start my day off with a chuckle

Also check the brake hoses for damage. Did you open the system or run out of brake fluid when you did the brakes? If so there may be air trapped in the abs unit. If you did not open the system and just compressed the pistons on the calipers you may have forced any sludge/debris back into the abs unit, a costly mistake. When compressing caliper pistons always clamp off the brake hose and open the bleeder to avoid this problem. The fluid passages in the abs unit are almost microscopic, it doesn't take much to cause problems. As txab suggested follow the factory bleeding procedure and hope for the best. Any chance you twisted a brake hose reinstalling a caliper?

same here

Dropped another dime today. $3.15

Safe journey Bud

O rings on the connections? sending unit leaking? did you remove the bed or drop the tank to replace them?

Yes

Give it a shot of carb cleaner and see if it fires. you need to get a scan tool to get the codes that set limp mode although I don't think there was such a thing as limp mode in 99

Set the tires on the trailer to the pressure marked on the side of the trailer, cold, set the truck tires to the pressures on the door jamb cold as long as the load range and size is the same. If the load range has been changed go about 8 lbs below the sidewall pressure cold and as they heat up the pressures should be right around max inflation

above the gas pedal on the side of the box. Welcome to the Forum.

Ground wire in the harness behind the ps pump possibly, watch the utube video

No oil gallery in the heads. The bolt may have penetrated into 1 of the drainback channels, remove it and put some thread sealer on it. Again oil is not going to dry, it will collect dust and turn to greasy sludge. Where it is getting worse it is probably coolant, are you still running Dex-Cool or has someone switched it to green?

Sounds normal, a fully charged battery should be 12.6 v but may show a higher voltage for a short time after being charged. Possibly a parasitic drain? If not then you got a bum battery. You put new in quotes, was it NEW or used? If new it's should be covered 100% under warranty

I vote for it looks better blacked out

Oil would not dry up. Looks like coolant to me. Pressure test the system hot and cold