kylant

it says right there: "1,004 HP Stock Dmax" I'm done arguing with you. It is not stock

i didn't watch it. it is still not stock. pretty misleading title

it's not really stock if he is changing the cam and what ever else ?

i am looking at trucks right now. most have MSRP of 78,820. I am being quoted at 69,858

thanks. don't know about PISK. I did it on my '15, didn't do anything on my '18 1500. don't remember if I did diff drops. I think I did on my '15

fantastic! any trimming? PISK? Diff drop? what did you do to the fender lights?

how about part numbers for the standard 3500 torsion bars? I am looking at a 3500 and it has the camper package on it. don't necessarily need or want the increase capacity or stiffer ride thanks

there are kits that level the front and supposedly don't cause any issues. 2" is about max you can go. The issue beyond that starts with the upper ball joint. From what I understand, is that it is not secured in the upper control arm very well. when the angles put on it from leveling, the chances of it popping out greatly increase. Hence the reason for new control arms with a better ball joint cup design. The new upper control arms are generally a different shape, and that is where the issues come from with larger tires and rubbing. However, there have been reports of stock tires rubbing on stock control arms as well. If all you want to do is level it slightly, I would just get a 2" kit with a Magneride adapter, and be done with it.

i have the readylift with the conrol arms. i had factory 22s with the 285/45. the tire just barely rubbed the leading arm of the control arm at full lock. maybe 1/16 of an inch. i welded steering stops from the Zone kit (come with BDS kit as well) onto the lower control arm factory steering stops and the rubbing went away. there was about 1/4" clearance after. I have a set of cognito control arms that have a much sharper angle to the ball joint on the front leading arm. i believe these will eliminate all rubbing with my new wheels and tires. however, i need to make sure they will work with the magneride sensing arm before I install. Once they are installed, there is no going back. I will be doing lots of investigating today.

what is the max level hight for the stamped steel arms? i hear about the ball joint issues I have the readylift 2.25 with their control arms. to fix this rubbing maybe I will go back to stock arms?? thoughts?

great, thank you. did you do spacers on the rear as well?

can you post a part number or link to the extended thread lug nuts?? I have a set of the wheel spacers. I may choose to run those. I did try them a while back, but noticed vibration about 1/2 block from the house. I have new control arms, but I may return them. I don't know about the installation of them. If I do install them, there is no going back (the spindle mounting hole needs to be chased bigger). It might be better to just run the spacers. I will probably end up selling this truck and going back to an HD

my readlylift arms are coming off. I received the cognitos friday. I will sell the readlylift ones for cheap. PM me

you can get the steering stops separate. that is what i did.

I have the Readylift UCA. the stock tires just barely rubbed at full lock. I got the steering stops from a Zone leveling kit and welded them onto the factory steering stop on the lower control arms. after that, there was no rubbing. there was about 1/4" clearance between the tire and arm. I figured with the new wheels, less offset, and same width tire, the set-up would clear just fine. But the new tire is clearly wider. It is actually the sidewall that is rubbing. the guy at the tire shop said as the sidewall profile gets taller, the tire will bulge out. That is exactly what is happening. and it is only at full lock.

my stock wheels were 22x8 with +24(6)? offset. stock tires were 285/45-22. my new wheels are 18x9 with +18 offset (wheel further away from suspension), tires are 285/65-18.

you are rubbing because of the offset of the wheel and the Readylift UCA. The UCA has a very prominent bend in the leading arm, exactly where the rub is . I have the same set-up. I had the 285/45-22s from the factory (+24 offset wheels) and they rubbed. I welded on the lower steering stops from a Zone kit. Those limited steering just a bit, enough to eliminate rub. there was about 1/4" between the tire and control arm after. I figured with new wheels (less offset +18) and same width tire (285), I would clear just fine. well I was wrong. the new 285 is much wider than the factory, they rub good at full lock. I have wheel spacers (1/2") but I don't want to run them. I am not a fan. If you get the steering stops from a Zone kit (just call them and they will sell them to you), weld them on, you will clear the arms. After studying pics of the Cognito control arms, and comparing them to the Readylifts, I am pretty sure the tires will clear. The Cognito leading arm has a much sharper, straighter angle to the ball joint. It is not rounded like the Readylift. The new arms will be here tomorrow, and I should have them installed by next week.

ball joint popping out may be a concern. I put Readylifts on for piece of mind. I am swapping them to Cognito. My tire rubs the leading edge, I feel the cognito will clear. My Readylifts will be for sale for a good deal shortly

+25 offset would pull wheels in more, making caliper clearance worse

I guess I should have read through the thread all the way. I have the 6.2, 8 speed. Sounds like my pedal is perfectly normal. thanks guys

^^ this. it is a detent that has to be pushed by. it seems like it is a significant sticking point. the accelerator returns normally

Yesterday when depressing the accelerator to full throttle to pass, the pedal seemed to "stick" before the last 1/2" of travel. I pushed it several times, and each time there is this noticeable spot where it "sticks." it is almost like there is a "detent" in the range, designed to be there and keep the accelerator from going to full throttle unless really intended to. When I got home, I checked it out with the truck off, and it is there pushing it by hand. Does any body else's truck do this? Is this an intentional design in the accelerator? (yes, I have done the shim mod) Thnaks

those are 285/55 (34.37" tall) and not 285/50 (33.27" tall)???

what size are those stock tires?

this size tire sucks. there is a very limited supply. the only one I have found that may work for you is the nitto terra grappler g2. i am in a similar situation. i am looking at 20" wheels for the simple fact there are many more tires to choose from