Douglas Nathan

What is a DD?

Thanks 'Dude!

So then there's NO WAY I can have engine coolant in my tranny fluid? As you can see, I have no more white streaks. I have beautiful transmission fluid!

Thanks Richard, this is my son helping his Mom. She iwns my former Avalanche now, she bought it a little while back. Any assistance you can offer him is greatly appreciated!

Yes, I am aware that part numbers change, who would know better than the MFR? I was giving a resource that could be checked and rechecked. While people here have done parts swapping that doesn't mean they didn't get lucky, as you say part numbers change, it's best to go with the mfr and the vin number or the Interchange Catalog that rely ONLY on advice from a forum, good luck!

Sounds like excellent advice to me. It ain't 1965 no more, when the only major differences were just gaskets and bolts to level out. Back fitting newer in to older or older into newer can be a bucketful of headaches, when if you get the same stuff you're replacing us just the usual busted knuckles, sockets, ratchets and wrenches.

Agreed, you have short of some kind (yeah, duh) but where (of course) is the question. The other guys suggested looking where the scum defeated the ignition. It's something that has B+ on it all the time (unswitched) the ignition/neutral safety switch is where I would look first.

Because my 2004 S10 lists 2 sizes: 235/70/15 as stabdard and optional tire size of 235/75/15 that's why.

You always have to consider bad ground(s); when I find a ground I wire brush the ground point, fastener and the terminals on the wires that go there and apply DI-electric grease to all contact points to inhibit further corrosion. I even put the grease in those connectors with the 3 lips on them. I do not know if ANY grease is better than NO grease but I do know that any automotive grease will keep water out of the connection. The grease might be conductive, I donno. DI-electric grease is purpose formulated to protect electrical contacts from the environment.

I would discount the battery from the issue, batteries do not target systems for sabotage; batteries either have, almost have, or don't have enough voltage to do the job. Batteries (like anything else mass produced) can have batch issues so you can't really blame AAA or the battery. I think you got a switching issue; if it's a ground issue clean the grounding point and the terminals on the wires that go there, use dielectric grease to inhibit further corrosion growth.

Alcohol/ ethanol just doesn't have the energy gasoline has so more will be burned. Which is better for the ecology? MORE ethanol/alcohol mixed with LESS gas or just gas? Is diluting gasoline with a lower grade energy fuel better or worse? I can't recall seeing a reliable study made by a disinterested group. The pro gas side will tell you what they want you to hear as will the pro alcohol/ethanol side will. I had a 07 Chrysler with the Mitsubishi 3.6 V 6 in it. using REGULAR pump gas that contains up to 10% ethanol. I replaced the OHC drive belt at 100k miles as required by the MFR. While aligning the timing marks for the cams debris from the combustion face of the heads fell into the cylinder in such a amount that the pistons would not pass TCD requiring the removal of the heads so the cylinders could be cleaned; a MAJOR PIA and expense!

Fuel pressure regulator?

Clogged fuel filter/sock in the tank?

I got my '06 rebuilt to 4L 70 E specs (it's the tranny that the SS and the caddy models used) for an additional $500.00 or so. I asked all those I trusted who the best shop around was and went there. The man told me to use NOTHING but the AC Delco tranny fluid and to get the pump in the transfer (you won't have to worry about the T case) oil pump modded cause they eat through the T case housing. I did that, and I installed a tranny cooler and a oil pan that had a drain plug on it to make future filter and fluid changes much less messy and way easier.