Vincej138

Its not the actual lift height that kills the joints, its the over-extension. This is gonna happen with a lift spacer/puck. You taking the shock with a certain compressed and extended length that works with your suspensions capability. You then shorten the compressed length by whatever size spacer and now overextend the suspension by that length as well as the shock is now allowing it to droop out more causing bad angles/stress on joints as well as making your shock your bump stop. This is why the good aftermarket UCA's have high angle BJ's or Uniballs that are not only stronger but allow for more angle along with usually more caster built into the upper arm to compensate for not only the lift but the added travel. Moral of story. Don't use spacers, your just playing with fire.

Literally call any aftermarket lift or off-road shop on the west coast and ask them what PSI they send trucks out the door at with 35's or above on 17 or 18" rim. Your gonna get constant 35-40psi answers. We would reprogram countless F250s for the tire light to not come on until 32/33 PSI so they could run 38ish when not towing. I usually go to discount after a trip up north to have them reset them at 37psi and they never question it. its Maybe its an east coast thing, but out west its super common.

Nitto Terra Grappler G2's currently, 4K on em an perfect wear. Never seen over 40psi since tire rack dropped em of at 80psi (insane). Dam near every truck that left the shop I worked at that came in for lift/wheels/tires left the door 35-40psi on E's unless they were towing, and then, we usually did on board air. E's can and always have been able to run in the 30's. Every set of Nitto's or Toyo's I've ever had have been 35-40 and gotten 40K+ out of them w/o any issues.. they actually held up better. E's don't have to be run at high pressure, they CAN be for towing. Their sidewall's just help. Half the crawlers and desert guys running 35s+ are on E's and aired down even lower. Yes in the 20's your likely gonna get some sidewall deflection and issues driving them on road, but 35-40 is smooth sailing and good ride

Solid choices!

This ^^^^ Im 35-38 psi on my E's and its fine. And its nice to be able to drop lower if getting into some snow or sand or get em up if towing. Ill take E's and sidewall over any other setup every time. 35x17's for the win though! Ha

Really happy with Griots and Adams stuff. I use their snow foam in the pressure washer and their PFM towels to dry, then speed shine afterwards & in between. Then just a set of good micro's Interior I like their basic interior cleaner. It works good on fabric and the vinyl/plastics. Then use Adams interior detailer cause the cedarwood scent is nice and isnt super shiny, more OEM sheen. Griots 3-1 tire/wheel/at cleaner is amazing for floor mats. And their Ceramic tire coating is good for a new looking tire and not shiny. Adams will do mystery buckets every so often which is a good way to get a lot of stuff and try new things.

They like to keep secrets lol

Def need a higher angle BJ. Lotta companies make Heavy duty BJ's using moog's. Dirt King makes good quality ones, Icon has their delta joints in tube or billet. And I think Bilstein makes a BJ one as well as a few others. https://dirtking.com/collections/silverado/products/ball-joint-upper-control-arms-dk-636901

TB doesn't add wheel travel though. Just lift. ZR2 has an extra 2" of travel over the TB. Longer shock, need more BJ angle and caster

The ZR2 likely has a bit more travel, so at full droop the added caster will help it track straighter. They could use a more heavy duty BJ too. Could be wrong on both, but that's your main diff with aftermarket ones

Possibly have a bit more caster built into them for the lift.

I liked the 5100's, but I love the Fox's. The DCA's help a ton. im on 2 clicks in on both high and low speed and it rides great on the street. Have not had a chance to get out and play yet in the dirt. But street wise its soft than the 5100's but still settles quick like they did. I barely have any preload on them, so im sure thats helping also.

2.7L is the same. Open ended ratcheting wrench is your friend.

Took 5100s off and put on Fox's and Dirt King upper arms

Got the Fox's and DK upper arms on today. Brought the front up about 1.5 which is about where I wanted.had to adjust preload a few times to get it right. She can stretch her legs decently now.

You can play with layout and default apps on the settings menu in the truck and then can also play with it on the app settings on the phone.

X2 on the Lasfit upgrade on my 22' Custom. I got high's and lows, still have not installed the highs cause the lows are so good. And they are kind of a PITA to install. But they work great. They sent me the same bulbs for high/lows, which stock they are H9 and H11, they do interchange, but was kinda odd 0 issues and im about 7000 miles in

Your buying off-road spec'd shocks for the street, so its a bit odd cause you will never see the true benefits that a 2.5" body shock offers. The same dampening and ride can be obtained from a 2.0 shock. So its kinda spinning wheels asking for a 2.5" setup. Honestly you would be better off just doing the factory spec'd fox with liner valving and the 550lb spring with 0 preload on it. Or if your 2wd, just get a spindle lift. The main diff between the 2.0 and 2.5 is not ride quality, its oil capacity thus allowing the shock to stay cooler as it cycles its travel more in rougher terrain faster. You could argue piston size helps control things, but for a pure street vehicle it wont be noticeable. You will never heat that shock up to the point it starts fading based on your needs and desired use of the truck. Its rare because its a waste of $, and on the vendor side of it, its hard because they way the shock is designed to be used and work is not what your asking it to do, so in our eyes, its a complaint and unhappy customer waiting to happen. To get correct valving, real correct vehicle specific valving, you need video of the suspension working through its entire range of travel, adjust, do it again multiple times. Much more going into the spring rate also. You need your motion ratio, you need to account for GVW at the corner and unsprung weight and then how much inital preload is needed just to support and carry the vehicle weight. You need to account on where you want your ride height to be vs. how much up/down travel you want. Accutune is great, but without having you and the vehicle there out in the dirt or street, it will never be perfect. "Soft" is subjective and different for every person. But your going to companies who specialize in one thing and asking them to do the opposite. So your gonna get some pushback cause if its not right, its on them and not the customer who had unrealistic expectations. Im not trying to be a downer, but your over thinking it. Your taking a $2K coilover setup and making it into a $150 monroe.

I used dash wires and it sounds so much better. Not necessary IMO

With a coilover, you have to compare how much travel the shaft has left compared to how much travel the coil has left before it bricks. You dont want to run out of coil before shaft...thats how stuff breaks. Too much preload or changing shock length with a spacer could mess things up.

That's a very subjective thing with variables. If you are dont need much lift and want some softer feel, then lighter coil and liner or progressive IMO would suit you well. If you need more lift, then heavier coil and progressive. If you want a firmer/sporty feel, then heavy or ligher and digressive depending on lift need.

Na, Im with ya. Cornering and controlling larger tires they are so nice for the price. I only switched to the Fox 2.5's for the wheel travel and bigger hits/speed. The people who do spacers instead of 5100's make my brain hurt.

Ya, they must adjust it a bit more for the extra 1". Unless they use a spacer somewhere. The video i linked they review the eibach and icon. They compare the Eibach to an in between of a Fox 2.0 and a 5100. Dirt King also makes a 2.0 coilover for our trucks, that are made by Elka for them. I know they put a lot into their valving specs and use a 650lb coil if I recall. They are on sale right now also. https://dirtking.com/collections/silverado/products/2-0-ifp-coilovers-dk-636985f

Yes and No. That's a loaded question as each valve differently too. The icon's wont have to be preloaded as much to get your desired height, which will help the ride. And while Icon is typically a digressive valving to feel a bit sporty on the street, its still nice. King uses a traditional progressive valving If I recall, but with a slightly heavier coil, King may be a good middle ground for you. The benefit with Fox is their DSC Adjusters come standard on the 2.5's and a liner valve. On the 883-06-162's which are the ext travel ones that need an upper arm, they run a 18" 650lb spring set factory to provide 1.5" of lift on trailbosses or 3.5" on standards. That could be a nice sweet spot for you as well. That being said, Im sure eibach did a lot of coil research and leaned on fox for some internals info. Shock surplus just did a big video on most of the options that may be worth checking out.

Those are a relatively new setup. Did Eibach tell you what spring rate they run by chance? Icon uses a 650lb spring, King uses a 600 and Fox uses 550's if that helps. The more preload the stiffer it will be, figure for another 1" lift your gonna have to bring them down another .5" of preload.