OS RR

https://www.valvomax.com/products/m12-1-75-quick-twist-valve-with-stainless-drain-tube-knob-1 This it? Does it work without their tube thing? (in case you lose it)

Just like everyone seems to do with that "junk GM/FORD designed 10 speed" and the HD's 10spd. Mostly on facebook... the cesspool of stupid that it is.

My understanding is a properly setup "J pipe" will eliminate the resonate'n but, I don't understand the math to it. Also more accurately known as a Helmholtz resonator.

I keep mine on Sport level 3. Very noticeable difference. Can tell the computer is still holding the engine back though.

I believe AMP were the ones I was looking at. Still on the list, just not anytime soon.

I have maddness auto works controller on my 24. I see no reason 25 should be different. Its fine, I use the phone app instead of their little wireless remote thing.

I was just fine without them. Wife complained enough to make me get a set. I ended up with GMs "high clearance" boards, they're fine. Would've rather had electric ones but, didn't want to fork out the money for them.

No, GMC and Chevy flares are not cross compatible. Fender openings are very different.

I used Cognitos on the front. Rough Country for the rear on my 24. Honestly, the finish on them is fine, the fit is not great. Not OEM by any means. Like they're molded a hair to small.

I'd say just go with the black phosphate and dab some grease, or fluid film, or anti seize... something... on them before you run them in.

Installed the OEM style from Boost Auto (in white) today. Used the factory GM upper harness. Lower plug was in the A pillar. Since I didn't have cab lights before I'm unfamiliar, do they not flash with lock/unlock? I may bite the bullet and go with their "aftermarket" style. I don't care for the way these look (being clear, they don't match the switchback mirror signals I also installed). All I can say is MEASURE MEASURE MEASURE. The center one looks off to me but measurements say everything is within 1/8" of matching side to side. So I don't know. Can't go back now either way. Also make sure your drill bits are nice and sharp.

Guy on youtube just used a step bit. Unfortunately it deforms the hole a bit (the roof is THIN) but, I guess the mounting pieces you screw on are enough to push it back up. Maybe use a piece of 3/4 or 1" PVC pipe as a brace on the underside? I'm waiting on a day off and nice weather to do mine, guess we'll find out.

Did you have to reset your torsion bars? I seem to recall they go right back where they were with the ZR2 stuff.

Does anyone make seat covers that ARE NOT leather/pleather? Something like a heavy cloth or similar to whatever Carhart uses?

I still don't understand why everyone complains about the halogen headlights. Mine are fine. On everything I've ever owned. I still get blinded by LEDs though, even with as tall as these trucks are.

Anyone know the part number for the attachment clips?

Mine has what I think is general pump whine. But also does this, not sure what gear. Sounds like a power steering pump groaning when it shifts. Pretty random as to when it happens. Usually coming down hill and it up shifts.

Can a mod pin this thread? And the other one?

AEV has done some work with these trucks and concluded something around +18 is a great middle ground.

-18 is gonna throw them out of the fenders pretty far. But no, pretty sure GM only made +44 and +33 (ZR2/AT4X).

2023 Didn't have wireless car play? Works on my 24. (standard base radio)

I don't see how the control arms could be much longer (except the uppers by just a hair to account for ball joint angle and camber). Cognito is quoted on their site saying the ZR2 uppers are .2 inches longer. The CV axles would need to be longer if the knuckles were pushed out. And don't think most 4" kits need anything more than knuckles and bottom drop crossmembers. The knuckles are taller with the tie rod mount point moved compared to stock to keep them flat. https://cognitomotorsports.com/cognito-super-stock-kit-for-2024-gm-2500hd-at4x-zr2.html Just my opinion, I feel like that kit is waste of money outside the steering brace parts.

You can see "Leveled" next to an AT4X. What I can't figure out is why the front wheels are sucked in more (in relation to the rear) on the leveled truck while sitting practically at the same height as the AT4X. Is the something inherently different with the ZR2/AT4x suspension parts that causes this difference? Price wise, a decent leveling kit and the ZR2 kit work out similarly. AEV has figured out how to fit 37x13.50 (w/ 18+ offset wheels) on these trucks with some minor trimming and fender liner brackets.

Got any shots down the sides? I would like to see how far 1.75" pulled the front wheels in. These trucks aren't like the trucks of ye old times that had the narrow rear end. Pretty even out of the factory.

Aside from a slight wine from the transmission (that's remained constant since new, so I don't worry about it) and to be honest, it could be the power steering pump too. I haven't cared to dig into it. Engine makes some general bottom end "running engine" noise. I pay no attention to it. 24 w/ ~16k miles. Daily driven since the day I bought it.