Chuck FB

The price of the Ultimate, into early winter the main GM dealer in the area for some unknown reason to me jacked the prices up well above MSRP, starting from AT4 having some and went up and up from there, the Ultimates were either 5 or 6 grand on top of MSRP. Blew me away and I don't think they were moving any either as a result, into Feb of this year there was a sudden change and it shot back down. That is a good question as to what percentage of 1 ton SRW vs dual is being sold. I can say in this area that what they list on the dealers websites ( not all trucks are listed, company fleet trucks are often never put on as they are already sold and never to be seen by the person walking into a dealership ) , of the GM/Chev HD trucks the SRW 1 ton is by far the highest volume truck they have in stock or coming from the factory, after that its maybe 3/4 over dually. I would also say that what they show on the websites are 3 times the SRW 1 ton vs the 3/4 ton. I have noticed in some states its very much the other way around with piles of 3/4 tons and far fewer SRW 1 tons. Which brings me to the comment about the SRW 1 ton being a glorified 3/4 ton and you are absolutely right, it is for the most part with the gas truck. In the diesel version with the GM, they then use the larger 12" rear end and possibly a larger drive shaft etc or so its been said so they don't have to use torque management in the low gears. And there is the ratings differences although I am not even sure myself as to the towing portion if that is different or the weight that the truck can carry which gets into the amount of weight a fifth wheel pin can allowably carry. But your right that the dually is the "it" truck when it comes to larger trailers, slide i campers, rigged up as a mechanics truck or a mini deck truck etc. One of the reasons a SRW truck for some uses in the oil patch is better is that a dually tire set turn into one big wide slick in the mud as the mud totally packs in between the duals and without chains can be a struggle where a SRW can get through without chaining up but also easier to chain up. A lot of SRW 1 tons and their twin 3/4 tons get sold on the Ritchie sales here so companies sure use them both. I had initially planned on buying a 3/4 ton but when I realized that my insurance would be somewhat lower by buying a 1 ton instead and if I decided to get a slide in camper, perhaps it was not all bad just to buy a 1 ton. However it is a short box so not ideal for a camper and again a dually long box would be the proper truck to be using for a camper. However I would not want to be driving around town as a truck for transportation and parking that as a crew cab long box dually, again a compromise truck is what I bought. My diesel comment, that wasn't intended to sound like it was directed at you, it was in speaking of those that buy a diesel and really have no clue what hidden issues they may have by owning one and using it the way they are in a put-zing around way. I expect a number of the 3.0 duramax are sold in that way of some who buy them that putter around vs those that drive longer distances where they can regen properly.

Well that certainly is good news they didn't put the wrong oil in, just carelessness I assume in how much oil they poured in. What brand and flavour within the brand of oil did you put in when you changed it yourself ?. For curiosity sake if you wanted to do so, I'd be tempted to sample the oil again to send it out but not this oil change your on yet assuming its the same oil change you did when you discovered the extra volume, but the next oil change so that the oil the dealer used will have been pretty much flushed completely from the system. The viscosity being one aspect to recheck and if this is typical of the oil sheering down that far or if the oil at the dealership has a question mark, or if it happened that you had a few engine starts and it caused some of the issue with a bit of fuel contamination. Anyway glad to hear it was the correct oil at least.

I bet there are those that own them and they just are not getting any of the true intended use out of them, and if they do too much in the way of short trips in town and worse during the winter and idling them a lot, that will catch up to them. It all depends if they keep flipping them before the warranty is up but then some used buyer will get hit with the mess and have to fork out to replace the whole plugged up emissions system. It makes sense though if one looks at the percentage of diesel vs gas HD trucks on large dealership lots, the diesels far outnumber the gas trucks, and typically the gas trucks are low to mid trim and the diesels are from one end to the other of the spectrum and I doubt all of those buyers of the diesel Denali Ultimate's or the diesel AT4X bought them to just to use them as a work truck. For example a few months back I went to an establishment that was recommended to do PPF and so forth and the owner took me into the shop to show a couple of examples of places they were protecting on a brand new diesel AT4X and he made the comment that this one and one just like it that they also had worked on were bought by a couple of friends who had the money to buy them literally as toys, no intent to really do anything with them other than own them and literally be toys ... sort of like those that buy top end sports cars and drive them once in a while, weather dependent. Not knocking anyone that does that with their diesel, just that the crappy emissions will kick and scream at some point.

Yes, if the truck I had bought had a true 100 % goal/purpose in mind like towing a larger RV trailer or an equipment trailer, then I would have gone the diesel route rather than force a gas truck to do something a bit over its head and that important other feature with the pickup diesels is the exhaust brake they have had for the last number of years. Once a person has had experience behind the wheel of a highway tractor hauling relatively heavy loads with the use of a jake and then it goes out for a simple reason of an electrical issue, that is when one really realizes even more so how dependent one is on the jake to survive to another day !. Of course if I was into insanely large/heavy fifth wheel holiday trailers I would sure like to be towing it around with a highway tractor But the reality is that I can see myself using this truck here and there to tow a few things, some farm equipment items and so forth that a half ton should not be towing but more than likely a lot of the time will just be hauling items in the back and the typical running around town to various businesses and getting groceries etc, basic transportation and dealing with less than ideal winter road conditions to the rural farm area I live. Most of it can be done with a half ton pickup for sure but wanted to sit up higher, have more clearance, more ability when I need it and yet not have to deal with the diesel issues. Also a gas engine is more winter friendly and this one does have the shutters as well and gas engines just naturally warm up faster as a diesel can take quite a while to get some warmth happening when it gets nasty cold. Every vehicle is always a compromise if trying to do multiple things with it as there is no perfect vehicle that does everything the best.

I've never owned a 6.0 gas, I've test driven them and at the time thought the empty pickup performance was very acceptable in my world. While I have ridden in duramax trucks I have never even test driven one and never saw the point to doing that and having a lust after the power and buying it for that reason rather than practicality for its intended purpose. From trucks I have been driving for numerous years ( aside from highway tractors ), I expect this one to have a fair jump in performance empty wise and can only do better than what I have been using when it comes to towing anything. I don't have a set goal for towing a particular trailer extensively as otherwise my purchase would probably have been different. Every time I see a guy walking out of a store carrying a jug of DEF in his hands or see someone make a beeline to the stack of DEF boxes in a store, that is something I won't have to deal with or worry about freezing like a block sitting in the box of the pickup and then can't pour it or have someone make the mistake of pouring DEF into my diesel tank. Or have diesel gel in the tank/filter because it wasn't rated for that cold a weather.

While I have been under my truck ( topping off fluids that all should have been full including the transfer case ), I never thought to look for a tag on it at the time. I don't have it here at home at the moment but if I think of it at some point I will have to look and see if there is a tag and what it says on it. Since your brother has the diesel version, I expect he talks about how utterly fantastic the fuel mileage is and how much power it has LOL.

I finally came across a rebuild vendor that did list up to 2022 model GM HD trucks, while it doesn't explain if there are any internal differences between the gas and diesel versions, at that time there were two versions for the HD trucks and both called the 3024, one for the gas to mate with the 6L90 with a 29 spline input shaft and an 8 bolt housing pattern although they don't "say" 6L90 trans. The other for the duramax with a 33 spline input and a 12 bolt housing pattern and again they don't say what that auto trans is but it would have to be the 10L1000. I can only speculate they end at 2022 because the newer trucks would tend to potentially have warranty yet on the driveline. Now that the 2024/2025 gas truck uses the similar auto transmission to the duramax, I suppose there is a chance both truck engine types might use the same trans, I am speculating though as that would depend if the input used the same shaft spline count etc. I may as well link that old article from 15 years ago on the 3023/3024 transfer case as it talks some of how it operates internally and gives a parts drawing break down. https://www.transmissiondigest.com/the-magna-powertrain-mp3023-3024-nqh/

Did you happen to have a link to the information on the more recent 4 auto transfer cases for the GM trucks, so far anything I had come across was an article talking about auto transfer cases but it dates back 15 years ago so I have no idea if its the same transfer case now or even designated by the same model number. The article talks about the MP 3023/3024 NQH and the light duty version mated to the 4L60E and the heavy duty version being the 3024 which they stated went behind the 6L90. Any transmission/transfer case rebuilding companies that I have seen pop up never talk about the auto transfer cases which I find odd. Which also makes me wonder what transfer case is behind the duramax, if its the same as the gas 6.6 or something else.

That's interesting, your experience and that of Z45's own vehicles plus observing the police vehicles and how they use the 4 auto. The reason I brought it up is that there is a youtuber that has a large following and some time back he had bought a Jeep Wrangler 392 and its made so that two wheel drive can't even be selected, its either in 4 auto or select full time 4 wheel drive which I presume applies a maximum pressure to the clutch packs at all time. His channel is all about exploring the off road and I can't say for sure when he put the 37" tires on it but would have done that and strapped on other typical items to it that all add up in weight. The transfer case clutches failed at 30000 miles but the rear tires still powered the Jeep but had to get towed out of the trail situation he was in. Jeep replaced the whole transfer case, that was the go to it seemed vs rebuilding it and since that time apparently its been quite a problem with that platform having the transfer case fail. I wonder if its because its always in auto mode unless selecting four wheel drive, that they get modified with larger tires, that they tend to get abused because of all that power they have, and abused off road and again all that power they have. The oil had not been changed in that 30000 miles and due to the clutches having fried he said the oil looked some nasty, I expect it would have had a ton of clutch plate friction material and the oil would be burned up. But then one has to wonder, the 6.6 Duramax uses that type of transfer case and it has lots of power and torque. A better transfer case ? ... two wheel drive selected most of the time ?, its a good question. My brother had a brief conversation with a retired mechanic that ran/owned a shop for years in the states and he himself owns a highly modified 392 but made the comment about the big problems with the auto transfer case and not just the Jeep, but there wasn't the time at that moment to elaborate on what other vehicles and why they were failing. But that comment from that gentleman got me wondering and thought I'd throw that question up in this forum given GM is the only HD truck on the block with this type of transfer case.

That certainly was and still is a fair statement that the solid front axle trucks had that toughness to the front end that the independent GM tended to fall short on, so much depends on what they are using the truck for and what sort of load they are packing around. Its not that I've never seen GM trucks set up as a mechanics truck and certainly see some welding trucks using the GM's. Also its somewhat engine biased, who at the time has the least problems with their diesel engine and now its which ones can even be deleted as the 2024 the last I heard still doesn't have a fix for that. But that doesn't mean Ford and Ram don't have issues with their front end, they do and I can't say as of just very lately with the Ford but just a few years ago I know they were still struggling with that insane high speed steering wobble issue. Also front axle unit bearing issues and so forth. But numerous oilfield companies that run a fair fleet of trucks tend to buy a lot of Ford super duties and Rams. Yet there are GM trucks on some types of fleets, they sell a lot of "white" trucks too and all of the big three end up at the Ritchie Bros sales, and some of each are just beat to ****** too !. I only worked for a very short time for an oilfield company but that is years ago and back then they were still using a lot of two wheel drive pickups which is insane but they were, did not have many 4x4 pickups. Had to chain up, that was for sure but they ran more GM trucks as it happened then Ford at the time and had no Dodges at all ( I am talking 35 years ago ). It was the conditions on cutlines/trails through the bush but also if it was a nutcase behind the wheel, pickups were never intended to be driven like trophy trucks in races like the Baha etc. The reason I went for a GM and I may had already stated that but it was to get an "acceptable ride" on the front end while still having an HD truck that has some ability that a half ton was never designed to perform. I quite like so far how it drives down the highway for example in the way it handles, in the past test driving the HD GM's of a few years back compared to the same year Ford gas Super Duty, I just didn't get that same feel in how it steered and rode and for my use I felt the GM was the better fitting tool.

Speaking of the GM transfer cases and more so the optional transfer case with the 4 Auto feature, has anyone heard of potential issues they have or have they been reliable. Certain vehicles/brands out there have had issues due to the clutches failing but I haven't happened to run across much for comments at all about the GM HD transfer case with the Auto ability. I've wondered why Ford and Ram have not offered it in their heavy duty trucks, if there is a reason or if customers are just not asking for it like I am speculating they may have for the half ton market. I honestly don't know when the GM HD trucks came out with the Auto option ?

Interesting, so being the diesel and both years had the same transmission, the only differences that I can think of that stand out other than the torsion bars ( and what tire pressure is being used at that moment ) is the refresh interior and the added weight of the upper overload pack, and the rear axle would be somewhat physically heavier as your 2500 would have had the 11.5 ring gear and your 3500 the 12.0 ring gear. Having said that about the rear axle, since its unsprung weight as well as the leaf pack, that doesn't add weight to the physical truck that the springs are carrying but the tires are carrying that extra weight. Were the tires the same goodyear tires that the new models come out with or was there a difference in the brand and model of the tires ? So the two items that stand out more than anything is the front torsion bar rating/stiffness difference and the lower pressure you happen to be carrying at the moment in your rear tires. Yes, that configuration of truck in either the 2500 or 3500 and be it the gas or diesel engine, they all came with the maximum rated front torsion bar of 6000 lb when the snow plow prep was optioned. Interestingly with a crew cab dually diesel, then its the same 6000 rated bars as standard and that doesn't change with the snow plow package as its already maxed out. If you drive around empty for extended periods of time as per not hauling heavy items in the box or pulling a trailer, certainly sorting out tire pressures that are sufficient for the trucks axle weights to gain a bit better ride is always an option, not really a practical option if always hooking and unhooking a trailer though. Typically the front axle of a truck doesn't have its weight change that much ( cab full of people or just the driver is often the largest change ) but the rear axle is where it changes dramatically, load vs no load. You would need access to a weigh scale to come up with axle weights and the use of a tire inflation chart to sort that out though to make sure one is never under inflated.

I made a note of doing that myself just now on my growing list of items to do or check over on my truck ... the list is getting longer all the time. Unfortunately I have to contend with both salt and calcium chloride, substances that make for repeat customers to the new section of a vehicle dealership.

Jon, I had read your experience with that before I had ordered my truck ( may have said that before ) and that helped me decide not to even order the camper torsion bars but stick with the stock ones, never mind the plow package bars and had seen from other sources as to how lovely that was for hoping to have a somewhat reasonable ride out of the front suspension of an HD gas truck. So when you think about your experience with only a reduction of rating of 400 pounds, just think of the massive change the heavy front end duramax with the short box crew cab and the standard 5600 bars, then swapping in the cognito bars which in the other thread was talked about as looking to be smaller than the 4800 bars ..... guessing they could be 4400 if not even less relatively speaking. No wonder when I have seen a couple of videos of guys that had the duramax and swapped in those bars, they said it rode so much softer and comments like "almost as good as a half ton". From what I could gather the factory keys had to be turned up more which of course makes sense but don't know how much to get the suspension to a factory ride height. Certainly would not be the best idea to use such light bars if hauling a taller hard side top heavy slide in camper for truck stability.

Is it pretty much the same spec truck otherwise, cab size, box length, engine type as per gas or diesel in both cases, I see its the same trim level although the new one has the refresh interior, and if they were the same as per having or not having the fifth wheel prep package, and if the same tire size, I am assuming all Denali's come with the same shocks but perhaps not if the X31 is chosen. With a gas 2022 vs a gas 2025 there is one item that is certainly different and that is the transmission, I believe its over 100 pounds heavier than what the 6 speed is. I have not sought out the opportunity to try a truck that had the snow plow prep but from reading comments of those that had the gas truck with the 6000 lb rated front bars and then swapping in the standard 4800 pound units ( 4800 standard if it was a crew cab short box gas truck ), that making quite a noticeable difference. A diesel truck in that truck configuration already comes standard with 5600 bars so I doubt it would be nearly as noticeable. I don't know if there was a change in the rear springs between years but I noticed lately in looking at 2025 trucks on the lot between the 2500 and 3500, the bottom overload leaf is shorter in the 3500. If unloaded its not engaged anyway unless the bump was enough to do so but it almost looks like that bottom tapered overload leaf may engage sooner on the 3500. Air pressure ( and of course tire size/side wall height ) that certainly makes a difference and I just got my 3500 very recently but had already planned on lowering the factory set TPMS placard pressure settings so that it wouldn't scream at me when I ran lower pressures. I have very little seat time in the truck yet but can say my lowering the pressure well down from the factory 60/80 even with the 20" wheels on stock tires, helps lessen the feeling of hitting a crack in the pavement that a soft riding vehicle doesn't even know is there. A couple of questions about the info on your stickers on the door pillar, what does it say the front axle weight rating is ?, and does the tire pressure sticker state 60 pounds front/80 pounds rear ? ( of course that is maximum inflation only required to carry the trucks maximum weight rating )

I'm sure if I was to get custom lettering made up " Fake Ass Allison" ( magnetic stickers since the truck is steel after all ) and had parked it out front of the Chev dealer customer entrance, they might not be impressed

I wonder if it would do any good to take each nut off and slather the stud in high temp anti seize ( doing them one at a time assuming the pipes would stay locked in place so as not to disturb them ). In fact does anyone know if those connections use a donut seal insert or is it just a steel on steel precise fit ?

I do find it odd why they felt the main pack bottom overload leaf needed to be different between the 2500 and 3500, there obviously is some reason to them designing it that way though.

To anyone that has been following the L8T oil use issue closely since the inception of the engine such as a GM mechanic for example, has there been any change in pattern in number of trucks that have had this issue as the model years progressed as now there are 5 years of that engine out there. Of course logic dictates that the older models will have accumulated more miles relative to current 2025 models but I gather this oil consumption issue shows up fairly early in some engines. I wonder if any internal changes have been made to the engine since it came on the market ?.

While admittedly I haven't physically measured the main leaf spring pack thickness in my 3500 to compare with the 2500, what I did notice is that the length of the bottom overload leaf is shorter on the 3500 which is interesting. But as to the rear of a 3500 sitting up higher by eye vs a 2500, I would have to say no. The reason a 3500 has longer ubolts is that the upper overload pack that sits on top of the main pack adds height to the over all spring pack and therefore requires longer ubolts to strap that all down to the axle housing, but the thickness of those upper overload springs don't affect the empty ride height. It would have to be a spacer block "under" the main leaf pack that sits on the axles spring pad "perch" that would add ride height. I haven't measured how much thread is sticking below the ubolt nuts but its probably not enough for much of a spacer block before running out of length. I've had numerous ubolts made over the years from pickups to highway tractors at a spring shop and they just need to have the proper length of rod that is pre threaded stock on each end ( and the correct diameter ) and know the profile of the bend and inner width of the bend they will have to make. typically on more popular suspensions they will have the information in their system and just require to know how long to make the ubolts Also its very common that the thread pitch of the rod material they have has a finer thread than a factory ubolt so new special deep nuts nuts will be required which the spring shops have in stock as well as the thick hardened washers to slip onto the ubolts for the nuts to go against if required. Not sure if any of this is of help ... oh and more than likely a spring shops ubolt material is not going to have some fancy gold or silver colored plating on it, just basic raw steel and if desired it can be degreased and painted before installing. No doubt the "fancy" custom ubolts from a lift company that are plated have a nice price attached.

I am not sure which prior post you read which gave you that impression, its probably more so choosing in the tpms devices list as to which sensor part number your truck currently has installed in its tires along with the trucks year time frame that fits into the choice chosen if using the type of tpms tool that is shown in this thread. I am only guessing that a higher end two way diagnostic tool would also work but I am not a tech so don't take my word on that. But as to your truck year being able to have the tpms placard pressure reset to whatever you desire, I am quite positive that is possible. The weirdness was these 2024/2025 trucks with their new global b computer system that the aftermarket hasn't caught up with to gain access to everything that a GM tech and their tools would have access to for all vehicle systems. Your truck predates this latest over complicated crap computer system thankfully ! If you get on well with your tire dealer I expect they won't mind resetting it for you to a lower psi value as they should have tools just like shown in this thread or fancier. It would be more of a question as to what psi you want to reset it to and if you read my prior long winded comments, it seems to be in the ball park of a 25% drop in pressure from the actual placard pressure set into the truck to the point where the low tire pressure alarm goes off and that is right where your at in the low 50's for the rear tires in this case and now the truck is screaming at you for no good reason. So if that makes some sense, its a matter of figuring out what new pressure to program in and front axle is done separately from the rear if you had watched that video and noted that. Being that your factory placard pressure for the front axle is set at 60, you would have to drop the front down to around 45 pounds before the tpms warning would go off. What I'd like to do if you would be interested and happened to have a weigh scale near by, for you to weigh your front axle and your rear axle separately with what you normally carry around with you in the truck and you and if there are any passengers in it as well ... however you normally drive around in this "emptyish" state you typically drive. Those figures and listing out the tire size you have on your truck, I would be able to tell you what minimum pressure you would need to have in the tires to carry that weight. That is not to say you might want to go that low but it would give you the information to know what your lowest safe limit is to run your tires at when more lightly loaded. By the way is this a gas or diesel truck ?

Excellent, this will be very helpful to others trying to dissect what bars they have relative to the stock 4800 lb rated ones in a gas short box crew cab. I don't know the diameters of the various GM OEM sizes but in another thread in this forum I had put a couple of PDF charts in which lists the ratings of the 2500 trucks and another for the 3500 trucks for the model year 2024. In both cases the lightest rated bars tended to be on the two wheel drive standard cab gas powered trucks and they are 4400 lb bars, that's the lightest rating I have seen but that is not to say GM didn't have a lighter rating on a prior year. I've also never looked into if trucks prior to 2020 used the same bar or prior to 2017 models. Of the ratings for 2024 that I mention in that PDF, they go from steps of 4400/4800/5200/5600/6000 It would be interesting if someone found a truck with a 4400 pound rated front end and was able to measure those torsion bars to compare with the diameter of the cognito bars. My bars also being 4800 and granted it was my micrometer so there's that difference but they were around 1.523 thou but they were not exactly the same, manufacturing tolerance variables for sure. I may as well put the conversion in this post as yes my eyes crossed a bit at the mm even though I am in Canada. 4800 lb rated GM OEM torsion bar diameter 38.76 mm = 1.526 inches Cognito unknown rated torsion bar diameter 37.74 mm = 1.486 inches

You touched on at least a couple of items I came to have real reservations about with the k&n filter and reading articles and watching videos of a testing apparatus with fine particles passing through said filter compared to dry filters gave substance to my concern, a concern that I felt the filter itself was partly to blame for the eventual failure of that trucks engine although I had no real way of proving it. Your correct, the k&n filter bleeds and when re oiling it its either putting too much oil on and having good coverage of the pleats for "hopefully" catching the dirt trying to pass through or if under oiling it leaves area's without sufficient oil and most certainly allowing dirt to pass through like air passing through cheese cloth and over time dust the engine. And again about the too much oil applied to the filter, that in itself adds to restriction as well as the bleeding into the intake sensors, nether is an item one wants to occur. The problem with not cleaning the filter if lets say the dirt is building up on it excessively, that is causing air restriction and typically costs more in fuel and that potential for fuel dilution, of course newer engine systems are trying to balance the fuel injected with the volume of air but there would come a point of not being able to overcome the restriction. I would never make a good salesman, that is fairly evident ! LOL. But those are the reasons why I will stick with the factory filter on my new truck and change it out as required and do services like that myself so I know what condition my old filter looked like relative to my driving surroundings dirt wise, know what quality of filter went back into it and installed properly so dirt won't get past and that I didn't have some twit strip out the plastic threads in the filter housing with his power driver over torquing the screws which in itself would lead to dirt having a chance of getting past the filter as the cover isn't being held down properly at that point.

That is excellent information and as I see customboss was also wondering about the servicing of the k&n filter, I used to run one in a truck of a dated vintage that had no air flow MAP or MAF sensor and still own the truck and I did service the filter regularly. However for a few reasons I came to the conclusion that it was probably in the "new" engines best interest not to run one and go back to the dry filter element and I took that nice pricey k&n and threw it in the garbage. Having said that I don't mean to shock you by that comment but I have my own reservations about the filter and I certainly won't be putting one into my new truck. Ok so my own personal thoughts ( and no I am not a mechanic ), I'll put it this way with your truck with my line of thinking and lets hypothetically say that you sold me your truck and you had told me its history. Knowing that direct injection engines seem to be even more prone to fuel dilution issues, I would start out by using the same brand oil but change it at 3000 mile intervals and grab a sample of oil at that time to send off to see what the fuel dilution number looks like as well as whatever else it might tell me like sheered viscosity ( or if fuel dilution lowered it ) and so on. I would take the k&n and set that aside and put the factory dry filter in but also get at the MAF sensor and clean or replace it and clean out the filter oil if any within the intake tract ( although probably the factory box would go back in to fit a factory filter ). I would run some techron fuel injector cleaner through it at intervals to help clean the injectors to give the best spray pattern they are able to produce.

I had posted a chart some comments back of the 2024 model 3500 single and dual wheel torsion bar ratings and their optional bar ratings for camper or snow plow prep package, I may as well post the other charts I have for the various 2500 series trucks of the same year. I think a lot of it matches up with the single wheel 3500 trucks other than the rear axle spring rating which makes sense given a 2500 and 3500 are virtually the same truck. 2024_Chevy_Silverado_2500_HD_VYU_New1 (5).pdf