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2009GMC

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2009GMC last won the day on November 5

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About 2009GMC

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    Senior Enthusiast

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Profile Information

  • Name
    Terrell
  • Location
    7000ft Arizona
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2018 1500 CC6.6’ 6.2 L86/79 K10 6.6 SB 4x4/97 K1500 ECSB 5.7 4x4

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  1. Is it lugging in v4 which causes the stutter then changes to v8 and it’s fine? You can try m5 for 6 speed or m7 if 8 speed which disables V4 mode. But at 70mph you prob want it in 6th or 8th What gears are in your truck?
  2. 6.2 Long term?

    Did you do any of the wishlist upgrades? Motor internal pics / new thread?
  3. Did he run a catch can or not? Motor was fine without a can?
  4. Correct. The single nut on top of strut rod.
  5. I clear coated mine after cleaning oil off of shock body’s. Still look new 6 months later. I used the bilstein nuts first and had clunking a few weeks later due to the nut bottoming out on strut tower. Put factory nuts on and it’s been good for months. I also used factory nut clips on the bottom as well. Pay attention to how the rubber upper mount and upper 3 nuts are positioned. Driver side took twice as long as the passenger as I was learning [emoji106]
  6. Frame Coating

    I just touched mine up with fluid film. Just spots where the lift contacts the frame. My Wax coating history - My 1997 has seen regular winters and interstate salt. Frame looks good and just has surface rust which I flat blacked over. The underside of the pickup bed rails have some paint bubling which I scraped off and applied fluid film. Overall the frame looks good for a 21 yr old truck. This gives me hope that my 18 will be fine. Of course its a head scratcher that my 1979 has a painted frame and the midsize Colorado canyon have painted frames. 1988 - 2019 current have wax coated. Why not paint or e coat the half ton and HD frames? Is it that much cheaper to wax coat?
  7. Another Bilstein thread

    Most here get 2” or 2.25” on top notch. I put mine on the second from top or 3rd from bottom and for 1.75 - 1.8” lift. I left the stock block in the rear and put 5100’s in. I still have 1.5” - 2” rake from front to rear which I like. You need an alignment after installing as your toe will be out of spec and will cause excessive tire wear even though my truck seemed to drive fine.
  8. I just uploaded some photos to the previous post 👍
  9. I just uploaded some photos to the previous post 👍
  10. If you look at the stock nuts the threads are 1/2 inch or so at the top of the nut so there’s less risk of bottoming out or acts like washers vs the bilstein nuts.
  11. Yes, after a few months I was getting slight clunking on bumps. Tried tightening supplies nuts and they were tight (bottomed out in strut thread). Installed factory nuts and its been quiet since.
  12. I agree on clear coating the shocks. I sprayed mine down with brake clean to remove any oil on the body then painted with spray can clear coat. I also used the original front strut but vs the tiny one that came with the 5100. The stock top strut but is deeper than the bilstein one and does not bottom out on strut threads when tightening.
  13. Looks like the 5160 is only available for the rear. https://cart.bilsteinus.com/results?yearid=8310054769234976108&makeid=1661612674627302276&modelid=2559915672474397422&submodelid=4483743550710845322
  14. Reading this makes me want to purchase one of these while I run the factory battery until it dies or at least 3yr 36k is up. https://no.co/products/power/jumpstarters
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