Spurshot

For a temporary setup run the hose from your winshield washer to the place you're going to inject it. I'd just put a washer nozzle in the plastic duct in front of the throttle body. Solder or squash the orifice down to about .060 and be done. You can control it with the washer switch. Pull the wiper fuse. Heck, you can shoot the blue juice in there and get good results. It's mostly water and alcohol.

Anyone have a intake duct from a 6.2L they want to sell?

I'm sure it'll all work out for you. Still, they will collect the computer data to do their analysis. I've had several engines throw rods. Including one in my airplane out over the ocean. No two were the same cause.

Lotso luck with that. They'll stick a long block in it, do a dump of the ECM, TCM, and BCM so they can see what went on. Good time to have not modified it. They'll look straight at a possibility of a tune, if they're doing they're jobs.

The stock lens is mounted into a FRP "hat" from behind. The lens is retained by a second FRP piece that fits in behind the lens and it is retained by plastic welded studs, which could be replaced by screws or rivets. The "hat" is attached to the reflector and shield/shutter assembly by plastic welded studs which could be replaced by a conventional fastener. As you probably know, the lens, reflector, shield, and bulb all work as a unit. A change to one of them is a result of the new combination. The profile of the lens is designed to compliment the profile of the reflector. So, the reason I asked what would be the advantage of replacing the lens, is because once you have access to the projector, you can easily replace it with a projector that performs better. The hard part is access. Phil will have a bolt-in solution soon if not already.

What would the advantage be of just changing the lens?

That stainless steel pad stuff gives me the eebee-jeebee's. One little piece of that stuff in the wrong place would make a mess. Sure it's a longshot, but still...it ain't made to be filter material in an engine. Stuff could break off...vibration, pressure pulsing, etc..

I think I was about $60 with Mobil 1 from Walmart in the 5 qt jugs and a M1 filter...that's figuring the leftover 2 qts in the 5 qt jug are accounted for on the next change.

Yeah, even changing it yourself with a synthetic like M1, it was a bit chunk of change. The days of the $25 oil change are gone. The good part is that you don't need to change it every 3000 miles. ...You can. But you can also rotate the air in your tires every 500 miles and buy new tires every 20,000 miles too.

You guys have had more than your share of it....

I was actually thinking of getting a MIT and adding a tube under it and tapping into the MIT to make an attenuator. Making noise is not what makes power, necessarily. It's just that Airaid chose to ignore addressing the noise.

Looks like a lot of water and a little oil.

Come on Dan...CFD is snake oil. jus yankin your chain....

The technical term for what a "catch can" does is coalesce. The function is to remove liquids saturated into a flow of a gas. Air Compressor systems have various methods to coalesce as do aircraft air conditioning/pressurization systems. The simplest form of a coalescing device is an expansion type that allows the saturated gas to cool and slow. This allows the liquid vapor to form into droplets that stick to the chamber walls. These types are commonly seen for air compressor systems, with a clear bowl and drain valve. They are effective, but leave room for improvement. When you add a type of baffle or labyrinth path for the gas to the above chamber, it increases the efficiency in removing liquid. The changes in direction allow inertia to force contact of droplets, formed from expansion, with the chamber walls. Centrifugal separators also rely on the inertia of the droplets to go to the outer wall because they are heavier than the gas. Centrifugal designs are difficult to make efficient with low flow rates. Filter type coalescing systems are most often a combination of the above designs. They are almost always combined with expansion types. In many cases, labyrinth design is combined in at least a minimal way. Large airplanes use a type of filter, along with an expansion chamber to coalesce water out cabin air before it is sent to the cabin. The filter is simply a surface for the liquid droplets to adhere to. In these airplane a/c systems, it is a fabric stretched over a conical screen, in a larger cylindrical chamber (can). You often see a filter added to those "water separators " in compressor lines. This is not really for particulate removal, although it will do that. It is to provide more surface for droplets to adhere (coalesce). The liquid in a crankcase vent flow will contain a significant amount of water vapor along with the oil vapor . This is condensation formed during cooling in the crankcase.

There seems to be a misunderstanding of how and what a V-8 PCV system does.

This makes perfect sense to me... or you can add another catch can on the "clean side" rocker cover tubes. same-same. I like your setup for the clean side. This is my understanding of how it works on our trucks...except possibly on WFO.

...to change the subject slightly... Anyone notice that the two rocker cover vent tubes, going to the intake duct, are not valved (one way) for flow? That is; flow from the crankcase/rocker cover can flow in the direction of the intake duct. I noted oil up in those two tubes and some film in my intake duct. Not much, but it's there. My assumption is that the system is designed to draw in from the PCV into the manifold. The pressure is lower inside the manifold than in the intake duct. That should keep the crankcase blowby flowing in through the PCV route...and into your cans. Just more stuff to think about....

Looks like UV affected from the light. It's concentrated where the beam passes through it. I suspect the plastic batch may not have adequate UV protectant. That means there's gonna be more show up with the problem.

Got the scope in. Playing ...

http://www.aggracing.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75

Nuthin today...yet. But it was a really early Christmas this afternoon when I checked the porch.

I don't see any advantage of seafoam over a mix of water and acetone/methanol. When I ran extreme boost turbocharged engines, I ran a mix of water and acetone/methanol. The internals were clean as a whistle. I really don't trust seafoam because I don't know exactly what's in it. Their SDS doesn't reveal much more than it's some kind of petroleum product combined with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol). I've heard that it's mineral oil and alcohol. But I can't confirm it.

If it's an emergency or you're stuck in a remote location, cut the cable under the truck or disconnect it. Otherwise, call the dealer and have him come and get his problem.

Be careful about where you buy. There seemed to be two places in the US selling this separator. This is a fake http://store.034motorsport.com/catch-can-air-oil-separator-provent-200.html This is a genuine part. http://www.idparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=provent+200&osCsid=917c909d3556c587b6260c26500ef12f&x=0&y=0 Another genuine part. http://www.republicsales.com/prodcat/MANN-FIlters-Provent-200.asp?gclid=CMSBuePG0sQCFQaTfgodFjAA0Q