DeePa

The line where the crimp connects the rubber and the hard line

All, I am looking to update my 6 speeds transmission thermostat and recently noticed my trans cooler lines are starting to leak. GM has part # 85132191 which appears to be the transmission cooler lines as well as the updated thermostat as one part number. Does anyone know any additional information about this? I know the new lower temp thermostat is #86774933 stand alone but if i can purchase the thermostat and lines together I'd save some cash. Thanks,

So I spent some time on this today. water in the connector at the motor. corrosion inside the motor at the pins from the connector to the circuit board. I tried to open it up, clean it up, and reseal it, but code still persists. looks like I’ll be heading to grab a new one. 360 cost at the dealer. Can get one GM delivered for about 300. 250 or so aftermarket ags1022 from summit. They have to be the same manufacturer. oh well. If anyone has their grill off, take the half hour to pull the grill shutter off and di-electric that connector at the motor and up by the passenger headlight.

Which plug? The one at the actual shutter motor itself? Thanks for your help. I’ll get a new one ordered up. Sucks that I have to take the bumper off to get the grill off. maybe it’s time to swap the grill to a color matched one. Been putting that off for a while. Just haven’t bit the bullet as they’re decent $$$.

Hey all, 2017 Sierra with 128k. I’ve had a u1510 code pop up today. I don’t have the ability to scan what u1510 code, but I do have access to some live data. I found a list by tbarn of what possible codes live under u1510 and figured I’d start with the shutters as they are easy to view. When running, I can view the active shutter command pct requested and current opening pct. The truck will command them to 0 pct like once every twenty seconds but they never respond and just stay at 100 pct (open) I took the shroud off over the hood latch and put dielectric grease on the connector and no change. Are there more and more shutter failures happening? Thanks all. Any info will be much appreciated.

Did it come with any gaskets? Or do I re-use what’s there? im really excited about this. My 17 is solid as a rock. Only weak point is trans and converter and I’m working on improving their weaknesses.

Part number? id like to do this asap. I’m already 20k into my second trans. Replaced at 107k. Currently at 127k

Yeah. It was getting more and more frequent before I finally got my hands dirty with it.

No issues after cleaning the ground. I never even swapped out the negative cable.

If you pull the mudflap and a few torx bolts on the fender liner you can pull it out of the way and see the ground.

You sure it’s the motor misfiring? Any CEL? maybe trans?

I told you what to do. The battery negative cable runs down the firewall to two places. One is above the starter on the engine block. The other is the passenger front tire on the cab side of the frame. Make sure these are clean of frame wax and rust. Mine had some insulation near the terminal between the metal and the frame. It’s a 10mm bolt. You can’t miss it. You do not need to remove the fender liner. You can take a few torx out to make it easier.

I just went through having to clean where my negative cable bolts to the frame. Passenger side wheel well. You can see it and clean it without removing the fender well. the other part grounds above the starter. You do need to pull the fender liner to see it.

Get ready for a trans to start.

I finally got around to checking out where the negative cable grounds. I pulled the passenger front fender liner this afternoon. The ground in the block was clean but I took it apart and sanded it up / greased it up anyways. the ground behind the passenger tire had 1/3 of the plastic terminal insulation between the frame and the terminal. Also, there was a good bit of wax and some rust there too. So I cleaned it all up and hopefully that fixes my problem. I’ll drive it for a bit and let you know if anything changes. I still plan on swapping the negative cable at some point, hopefully during the warmer months. I’ll chime back in if the truck starts acting up. im trying to rule out one cable at a time so there’s some clarity for others that are going through this. There are a lot of posts about these trucks doing stupid ****** once they get to be a few years old.

They changed the negative cable and it’s routing on the later k2 trucks so mine does not have that constant tension on the battery terminal. I pulled the passenger front fender liner this afternoon. The ground in the block was clean but I took it apart and sanded it up / greased it up anyways. the ground behind the passenger tire had 1/3 of the plastic terminal insulation between the frame and the terminal. Also, there was a good bit of wax and some rust there too. So I cleaned it all up and hopefully that fixes my problem. I’ll drive it for a bit and let you know if anything changes. I still plan on swapping the negative cable at some point, hopefully during the warmer months.

So my truck acted up again. I tried moving around the junction box on the top of the battery and there was not any change. I then moved the negative battery cable around and then power came back and the truck started. I ordered a new negative cable and plan on inspecting where it connects on the frame before I replace it completely. price was around $50 shipped to my door. I’ll post back with how it worked once I get a chance to install it / fix the current one.

I’m going through the same thing with my 17. If I move around the junction box on top of the battery, it’ll start. It’s been fine for a week now that I zip tied the junction box so it stays still. It doesn’t clip down as well as it did to the OEM battery. theres a post I started a few lines down with some info. I haven’t been able to check on any of the suggestions yet. my truck has high miles (124k) so I may just change out the junction box, positive cable, and negative cable. when my truck won’t start, I do not have any power at all. No dash, no interior lights, etc.

Will do. does anyone else have any suggestions? I’ve read a lot about bad starters but with a 17 and 124k I think it would have failed by now if it was junk from the factory.

Terminals are tight. Can’t move them. Just moving the power block on top of the battery gets it to power up.

Where can a replacement for this be found? Mines a 17 5.3 Sierra and it’s starting to show some stupidity that goes away after moving battery cables around.

Hey all, 2017 Sierra 5.3. Replaced battery a month ago. The other night after a 50 mile drive, I was unloading the back seat and the interior lights went out. Went to try to start the truck, and nothing at all. No dash, no interior lights, no crank. I went under the hood and wiggled neg and pos cables and then power returned and truck started. fast forward to today (2 days later). Same thing happened. Took off the battery cover hoping to find a loose terminal, but both were right. All connections on that power distribution block were tight also. I wiggled the junction block and then the power returned and truck started. Has anyone had anything similar happen? My next step is to take off all terminals and clean / dielectric grease them. im also considering buying a new distribution block and swapping it out, but I haven’t been able to find the correct one yet. thank you Mike

Go back to stock. You’re not the type who can deal with truck mods

Bump?still looking

Replace it. My trans looked great at 103 when I dropped the pan to do the filter. TQ converter went and wiped that trans at 106k. 5000 dollar repair at a dealer.