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About jpfanner

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  1. I just ordered my High Country in June and you can get the MAX Trailer package, with ALL the cameras, Trailering mirrors, etc. The only thing you basically can't get is the Z-71 package which was NBD for me since I'm having SCA add a lift/tires/wheels, that will have skid plates.
  2. I've been searching for about an hour and I've decided to just ask: Had a new engine put in my truck due to AFM/DOD failure that went catastrophic. (truck is for sale if anyone is interested in a cherry 2014 with a new GM Long Block 6.2 with 100,000mi warranty) Everything worked fine, then I hauled my ranger about 90 miles round trip on my 16ft trailer. After unhooking the trailer I got a "service park assist" and now none of my sensors front or rear will work. However, they worked the whole time prior to and during pulling the trailer. I drove the truck about 700 miles after the new engine with no issues after putting the new engine in before hooking up to a trailer. So, I don't think during the engine install any harness was damaged or affected. ALSO, occasionally if I shut my truck off and turn it back on within a short period the "Service Stabilitrack" message will flash up and go away? I've seen that once or twice before in the past year but now it seems to popping up more often? Is there a chance a dead short in the trailer wiring could have backfed into the electrical and caused issues? I only ask this because of the timing AND the trailer is brand new and within a few days of owning it (prior to engine replacement) I blew a fuse for the RT turn signal and brake light. I kept forgetting about so I pulled it several times including this most recent time without the turn signal and the tail lamp. After this last time I did replace the fuse however I have not pulled my trailer since. Part of me wonders if they're related but also, I pulled the trailer for 3 months with no parking sensor issue at all. Could I have a bad trailer module on the truck? Is it tied into the sensors at all? Any feed back would be appreciated, thanks!
  3. So my 2014 Silverado is getting a new GM long block installed after failing at 107k. The shop said the new engine came with a flywheel that is every so slightly different and the bolt holes don't quite line up. So, without consulting with me they just re-used the old flywheel and I guess are sending the new flywheel back as part of the core return? My question is was there a flywheel update and as long as the old flywheel was in good condition could this cause an issue? I guess I'm assuming if the new engine came with a new flywheel that is slightly different the new flywheel should be used. The dipstick at the front desk is assuring me it's ok and the warranty will still be honored. What's everyones thoughts and could someone put me in touch with a GM tech that would know if there's any reason I should be concerned? thanks
  4. I'm looking for a long block or complete 6.2 for a 2014 Silverado. Please message me if you might have anything.
  5. Anyone able to get ahold of a remanufactured 6.2 for a 2014 Silverado? At 107,000 miles mine had a valve keeper break (suspected) and during diag something fell down into the oil pan and shot through the pan and part of the block. Shop in Decatur, AL is saying only option is brand new from GM? Also, when’s the class action lawsuit. I’m the 4th person in my group of friends that’s had a 6.2 completely fall apart on them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Well they moved a vehicle that had flashing CEL lights which even the owners manual says is a no-no. So, they should have used something to push/pull it into the shop. The truck did not have a cracked oil pan when I took it in and it does now. The truck was not knocking when I took it in and it is now. Wouldn't the first course of action be to pull plugs and use a scope when someone describes the symptoms and that they pulled over immediately and had it towed in instead of driving it in under it's own power? I mean, here's my assumption, a cracked piston probably finally broke and it flung around and hit the pan. Had they pulled the plugs and scoped it the would have seen a cracked piston and known that starting it up could have finished the motor immediately. I guess, I'm just lost as to why you would just be driving it around when it's missing and sputtering and clearly not running correctly. Especially when it's displaying symptoms of a well known valve train problem that they are self-proclaimed experts on? I don't know, maybe I'm the only one who grew up racing and would start by pulling plugs and looking for damage/signs there first?
  7. The short conversation was "it was a ticking time bomb and nothing they did different than any other truck". I didn't take it in with a blown out oil pan or a horrible racked in the motor...not sure how any normal person would be expected to pay for a new engine when more damage was caused while they were "moving it out of the way".
  8. The quick and dirty is my truck was towed to a repair shop that is self-proclaimed very familiar with the GM lifter failure issue. That was the suspected issue with my truck. They drove the truck into the shop did the normal checks, compression etc. During that they found the #1 cylinder to only have 5lbs of compression. After that they decided that was enough diagnosis for the day and they started it up and proceeded to back it out of the shop. As they were backing it out something very bad happened and parts/pieces of lifter (suspected not confirmed) fell into the crankcase, began rattling around and cracked the oil pan very badly and most likely ruined the crank and put metal in the motor. Now, my question is; after diagnosis and me telling them multiple times that it had all the symptoms of a failed lifter, would every shop just continue to drive the truck around under it's own power to "get it out of the way"?
  9. P0301 #1 cylinder misfire Shop hasn’t looked at it yet I just took my code reader over there and decided to read it because I was close by the shop. I figured the way it was running or not running it was more than just one cylinder not firing. However my code reader is just that it’s not fancy at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. It went directly to the shop. I was just curious as to what maybe I could expect and I thought the just getting gas might have been a clue. I will assure you you will be the first to know as soon as he gets hooked up to a tester which will be Thursday or Friday. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Sorry I should’ve said the truck will run if I am feathering the throttle and really focusing on keeping it going. I shut it down after I got pulled off the road and had it towed into the shop. They probably can’t look at it until Wednesday or Thursday or Friday or some ****** but I’ll let y’all know what they say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Here’s the quick and dirty. 2014, 6.2 High Country, 107,000 miles was running fine completely normal. Stopped at a gas station and got some gas. Pulled out drove down the road a little bit started thinking it was shuttering Then another thousand feet it was clearly shuttering and at this point the engine light was flashing and the stability track light was on. The truck will continue to run but basically had what felt like multiple cylinders misfiring. I realize there’s a small chance it could be bad gasoline but I guess I’m leaning towards the lifter issue just because I have four friends that had the lift or failure in there 6.2 L motors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Anyone know what a headliner replacement might cost?
  14. Anyone had this issue? 2014 Silverado... any ideas?
  15. Yeah, I didn't realize it was going to take a dremel tool and a lot of guessing and checking for a good tight fitment. Guess I got a little weekend project.
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