rudyb

For any future internet people: I went with Rockford Fosgate P3V2-69C2. Product link: https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3v2-69c2/ At the time of this post, the kit I bought came with the P1V2-25 dash speaker. This is actually documented on the support page but it's confusing if you read the product owner's manual. Found here: https://rockfordfosgate.com/static/media/support/rftech/library/2025/04_speakers/1230-83270-01_p3v2_components-man.pdf Also note: at the bottom of page 10 it says to use the 33uF capacitors on the "P3V2-25 Only". I contacted support about this. They confirmed this is not accurate and you should installed the caps with the provided P1V2-25. Fitment: The P1V2-25 does not fit properly. It's slightly too deep. I used some shims and weather stripping as spacers. Lastly, you'll want to pick up some adapters for the doors. You can 3D print them with the STL provided on the support page, or you can find them online like eBay. Oh, and be sure to watch where the door panel pins back to the door. I had to cut some notches out of these adapters.

Hey guys. I'm guessing this question has been asked before, but I used the search and didn't find the answer. I'm looking for drop in replacement speakers to upgrade the stereo for a 2016 LT double cab. It seems the doors are pretty simple, but the dash speakers are throwing me off. I'd like to get a set of component speakers without and modifications. I see several options on eBay. All front door speakers are 6x9, but the dash speakers vary from 2.5", 2.75", to 3". Are these all compatible? The listings are unclear. Thanks for your help!

We only had one snow day this last winter and they did just fine. I would say they're on par with the st maxx or duratrac. Same with rain, I don't have any problems.

I absolutely love them. They're quiet. Don't seem to wear uneven or too quickly. Ride is good. I'm running 42 PSI. Honestly, for the amount of highway and city I travel now, I could have gotten something less aggressive, but I really like how these look too! Comparing these to running Discoverer ST MAXX and Wrangler Duratrac in the past, the XLT is a great balance. My fiance is out running errands with it now, but I can go measure tread and give you my mileage when she gets back.

If they're putting 285/45/22 on a stock LTZ, I don't see why it wouldn't work unless they also have some lift or a different set up. I would hate to tell you to pull the trigger and then you end up with rub. Maybe if you can pull up and sit side by side with an LTZ with the 22's you might be able to get a better idea. Sorry I can't be more definitive.

She might be dirty but she looks good! Looks aggressive but not over the top.

I took a few photos today and tried to grab as many relevant measurements as possible. It was easier for me to upload everything to my blog to keep from getting the thread off topic. Head over to https://roodeebee.blogspot.com/2019/02/silverado-ride-height.html for details. You might be able to go 1" larger diameter than the 275/70r18, but that would probably be pushing it. On my next set I'm probably going to look at going a bit wider just for a tougher look. The next size up in the Cooper AT3 XLT is LT305/65R18. I recommend looking at https://tiresize.com/calculator/ and clicking the "tire comparison" tab. Also go to http://us.coopertire.com/tires/discoverer-at3-xlt.aspx and click "full specs" for all sizes of that model. Good luck.

From my calculated/corrected odometer numbers I think my math is still buggy, but going off of the trip meter readings at every full-up, it looks like my average MPG went from 17.55 to 16.15. I expected it to be worse! I'm going off of this guy's formula. Again, I think something isn't right, but I can't get my head around it.

Thanks! I have a running spreadsheet for mpg documentation. The numbers did drop, but I have not reprogrammed the ECM or BCM for the change in tire size (looking for advise to get this accomplished), and I have not put a formula in the spreadsheet to correct the value. I’ve had that on my to-do list so I hope to have an accurate answer soon. Something I noticed is that the transmission seems to be confused by the new tire size. I don’t really know how to explain it. It gets about 13mpg when the cruise is set anywhere from 65-69. If I set the cruise on 64 or 71-72 the mileage seems to go up to 17-22.

I dig it! What’s going on with the black/red vinyl back by the rear fender? Can we get more pics?

1.5” lift in the front. Still has a slight rake, not completely level, but I like it. Running a 275/70r18 no rub full lock. Don’t judge my crooked bumper. I still haven’t got the hit and run damage fixed.

I finally got some warm weather and covered the bow tie and door pillars in black vinyl. One of these days I’d like to color match the front end.

My iPhone 5s did this occasionally. I upgraded to an iPhone 7 and it happens much more frequently. I always ran the most recent version of iOS. I'm starting to think the USB ports on the truck are shit. Now when it happens, I nudge the USB cord where it plugs into the truck and it usually connects a few seconds later. I still haven't confirmed if this is the issue or coincidence. I'd be curious to know what results you get from nudging, adjusting the usb cable. My Dad has my iPhone 5s now, but I may run an SE for a bit and see what results I get.

My '16 has an aweful downshift while coasting down from 32mph->28mph. The seat belt has caught me a few times. It's pretty aggresive. If I'm braking it doesn't usually happen, just when I see a red light and let off the gas pedal. I also have some strange stuff while accelerating, but it's difficult to replicate. Sometimes it will accelerate through the gears like a dream. Other times the truck seems to be drunk and can't figure out what gear it's supposed to go to.

I dig it. Any rub with this setup? Are you running stock UCA? Is that a 1.5" level? Thanks

Hold that button in as you lift the headrest out of the seat. You’ll probably have to lean the seat back or it’ll hit the roof before it comes out. Keep in mind, removing the headrest could result in injury if you get rear-ended.

Weird, I have the same problem but mine isn’t adjustable. My solution was just to remove it. It looks goofy, but it’s more comfortable, and I can see traffic to my 7 to 8 o’clock much better.

I dig it. Looks great! Could you post a couple close-ups of the tow hooks and the fitment around them? I'm curious how tight it is and if it'll be a pain to hook up a strap. Thanks!

OP, That sure is a funny looking Tundra you have there! ;) I apologize if this was already asked and I missed it, but did that hit the floor level or did they level it out at the dealership?

Sorry to hear about your situation. I'm upset just reading this. Taking a low mile Suburban to a certified Chevrolet dealer/mechanic should mean you receive the quality of service that you pay for in a shop like that. Instead, it means they get to misdiagnose the problem and you get to spend money on what they think it is until you're $8k deep. I understand this is new technology and they don't have everything down yet, but they should at least stand behind their product, learn from their mistakes, and make the situation right. But hey, honest/nice guys don't get ahead. Unless we all switch to Ford, of course. If there was enough carbon buildup to smash the gap on a plug I feel like something else is going on. I think I'll be ordering one of those magical catch cans now.

@AlexMX88 That looks awesome!

I tried. I spent several months looking for a pickup. The problem is that I am too damn picky. Criteria for a suitable purchase: Make: Chevrolet (I don't care for the Sierra front end, plus I knew this wouldn't be easily swappable) Model: Silverado 1500 Trim: LTZ Z71(had to settle for LT on this one) Odometer: <52,000 Drive Train: 4WD (will not own 2WD) Color: Summit White (would not settle on anything else) Cab: Double (would not settle on anything else) Price: <$31,000 Not from Texas (hurrican truck) There were plenty of crew cabs out there, but I didn't want that short of a box, and I don't want a long bed. I found one Sierra that fit the build pretty well, but I stuck with the Silverado because I already knew the front would be swappable for 2014-2015 parts and I could get rid of projectors. That wouldn't work on the Sierra. I found a few others that were close, but the dealers didn't want to sell them at a reasonable price. I'm not going to pay $3,000 over market value for something just because the dealer is stubborn. I ended up with a 2016 that matches most of my criteria. It is an LT, but it only had 42,000 on the odometer and I paid like $27k. If I could have snagged a low mile 14-15 for the right price I totally would have. Although I think it would be pretty neat, I think most of you are right. It would only hurt the resale value, and be a pain in the butt. The hood and grille wouldn't be hard to swap, but I'm sure the headlights have different harnesses, and it would be pretty silly to go chopping wires on a mostly new truck that currently has no issues.

I support OP's desire to roll back to the '15. I too enjoy the classic look of the stacked headlights and consider this mod for my own 16 from time to time. Some of you argue that the headlights will under perform compared to the '16 and '17. That might be true if you use the projector lenses from '15 (they are terrible). If you go with the classic reflector lenses as shown in the picture, I bet they would outperform the '16 and '17 with a decent halogen bulb. In my experience, reflector lenses are far better than any of the stock projectors I have seen.

I am also interested in color matching my LT, but this is definitely a concern. Is vinyl wrap tougher against this type of damage than paint? Does anyone know what the life span of vinyl is? I worry that it might peel and tear after a few years? Does it fade or turn colors? I have zero experience with vinyl wrap. I've been considering buying my own paint gun and spraying everything myself. Thanks for the input. Wish you luck OP.