jwhitesides

I fixed the issue by replacing the under hood fuse block. You MUST get this from the dealer. Mine was $225 + tax. Be sure to have your VIN number to get the correct one. The replacement fuse block does have some different fuse arrangements that I verified with the dealer. It it very easy to change out: Remove positive battery cable 10mm Remove power cable from batter to fuse block 10mm The two levers on the fuse block UN-clip and you rotate them all the way to the center; then rotate them back to the outside while slightly apply pressure to lift the fuse block up. Mine cam out VERY easy once I figured this out. No need to pry or use any tools. Take a look at the replacement fuse block levers and you will understand. No need to remove the cover on the fuse block either. Dropped the new one in in reverse from above. Everything works great! Some have mentioned of ground wire issues that may cause this. I am going to take a look at my ground wires from the battery to see if anything is visually wrong.

I haven't fixed it yet but after some troubleshooting I would have to agree that it's the fuse block. I can bang the fuse block to get the integrated relay to turn the reverse lights off. Also I have unplugged the reverse camera with no change to the reverse lights; so the bad ground in camera theory is not the issue in my situation.

In my continued research I am understanding this relay is integrated on a circuit board in the fuse block assembly. To fix this issue will require replacement of the entire fuse block under the hood. Can anyone else agree with this?

It looks like the relay KR61 "Trailer Backup Lamps Relay" is also the relay for the vehicle backup lamps. I will swap or replace this relay and see if this resolved the issue. Thank you for the diagram! This was helpful. I will report back after I replace and drive for a few days to verify this was the problem.

My reverse lights are staying on: When in park When in drive When the ignition is off I have removed fuse #33 in the engine compartment fuse box which kills power to the revers lights to keep from killing my battery. This also keeps my reverse camera from turning on when in reverse also. I have unplugged the backup camera thinking this was causing a bad ground with no success. I don't see where a relay might be that could be bad/stuck. This is a interment problem which points to ground or relay issue somewhere but I don't know where to look.

Thanks for the info 14LTZ-1LZ!!! I will check this out.

I have experienced this very same things and have been going crazy trying to figure it out. 2014 Silverado Crew Cab 2wd 5.3L w/ 110k miles New tires at 60K (Micheline tires) Tires re-balanced New pads and rotors New shocks U-Joints replaced Drive shaft balanced Torqued U-Bolts in rear to 70 ftlbs I will be purchasing this fluid and have the transmission flushed. Is the Lucas additive necessary? I don't think I want any seals to swell on me. Nothing is leaking on me now.

I have done the following with no success: 2014 Silverado 5.3L crew cab 2wd * New pads and rotors * New shocks all around * New U-joints with balanced drive shaft The worst is at 70-75 mph but I do get the shake on occasion at +45 mph. I am going to have my tires balanced and chalk the tires just to make sure I am not having a tire slipping on the wheel. Any other suggestions? HELP!

Has anyone found the source of this problem other than "take it to your dealer" ? Or possibly know what the dearer did to resolve the problem. 2014 Silverado LTZ and I get this intermittently. Starting to happen more often than not.

2014 Silverado with same issue. Seems like when I jiggle the gear lever sometimes it starts working like its a switch that's not activating fully. I would be interested if anyone knows a good fix.

IDK. I just know that on my truck they have a vacuum pump on order.

I dropped my 2014 Silverado off this morning to have oil change and the software recall performed. I was just informed that they where unable to perform the recall as they don't have the part in stock. So I asked the question that I understood that this was a "software upgrade" and that this shouldn't "require a part". The technician stated that initially that was the case but has now VERY recently changed and they will need to replace the vacuum pump and it is out of stock. This may not be the case for all years and models but IS the case for my 2014 Silverado 5.3L

I have received this letter for both my 2014 Silverado w/ 100K and my wife's 2015 Tahoe w/ 75K for the "software" update. I have not had the brake experiences on either vehicle that are mentioned but am now nervous about it. Should I push the issue to replace the vacuum pump? I am reading others have the software update performed and either never having the issue before and experiencing it after the software update or having the issue before and after. Either way the software update is not addressing the issue.