LongrangeLauber

Yep, direct injection L83 motor. Whether it helps or not, I added a couple bottles of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (each bottle handles up to 12 gallons, so two was almost enough for the tank.) Fingers crossed it helps, but not holding my breath on it. Have about 200 miles I'll be putting on the truck in the morning for work so that should help push the cleaner through the injectors. The shop I originally took it to will probably be a no go for me, at least for emissions/ fuel related issues. Seems like they just hooked up their scanner, saw the 20 and 30 codes and said that yeah, you need new cats. Doubt they actually did any sort of diagnostics on the system, just followed what the scanner said. I don't mind diagnosing the issue on my own, but with the modern vehicles there's so much to learn, especially with the fueling and emissions related DTC's. Oh well, I'm picking it up little by little in my spare time after work. Makes me want a nicer scanner than what I have too lol. Never had any issues like this with my 02 Silverado, only 4L60e and GM 8.6" diff problems

Alright all, I have a continuation on this issue. Took my truck to a shop before Christmas to have both Catalytic Converters replaced. I knew the driver side cat was more than likely fried due to a faulty upstream O2 sensor, as discussed early on in this thread. I had mentioned about a month ago that I was also receiving a P0430 code on top on the P0420 code. Figured if they were going to do one, might as well do both while they were in there. Picked my truck up coming up on 3 weeks now. When I got the truck back the P0430 code was still there, but the P0420 code was gone. Figured it just needed some key cycles and/ or miles put on it for it to self clear. Gave it 200ish miles as I've been told in the past and it did not go away. Figured it could be a faulty bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor, so grabbed an NTK branded one locally and replaced. Another 200 miles went by, code is still there. Went to clear the codes and noticed P0420 code is back again. Cleared everything and codes popped back on within 5 miles of driving. So I started monitoring the O2 sensor voltages. Both upstream sensors are switching back and forth between 0.000V & approximately 0.800V depending on throttle position and such. Bank 1 sensor 2 holds steady right around the 0.675- 0.750V while cruising down the road and at idle after it goes into closed loop (warmed up). Bank 2 sensor 2 will stay right around the same range while cruising as the other downstream sensor; But at idle, it will be a very low voltage, usually from 0.010V to 0.105V, until I hit the accelerator and it goes back to the way it should be (for the most part.) Side note, I watched the Long Term Fuel Trims on my way to and from work today and at idle both banks are between +5% and +10%, but once I get cruising at a constant speed, they both pull in much closer to 0%. Lows at -1% and highs at ~+5%. From what I've read, anything in either direction of 0 in the single digits is acceptable (obviously the closer to 0% the better.) Not sure what it could be at this point. I have a feeling it is something to do with a fueling issue since it keeps showing bank 2 in a lean condition at idle (according to the O2 sensor, unless there is something wrong with the new O2 sensor, but I'm sort of doubting that. Plan on doing a spark plug change and a new wire set (all ACDelco branded stuff) so as I pull each spark plug out, I will go ahead and see what they look like, paying close attention to the bank 2 side of things. I have a feeling it could possibly be a faulty injector (or multiple) that could be causing the lean issue, but where it doesn't throw a misfire code. Before I go that far though I'll probably just take it into the dealer and have them figure the issue out as now I'm past due for my emissions test and just want the truck running correctly. Also have the TSB or recall about the increased pedal effort that needs to be taken care of, along with them resetting my TCCM (transfer case control module) because I have a "Service 4WD" message that pops up every time I start the truck.

My scan tool gives me oil pressure readings, assuming the sensor is operating correctly

No code for oil pressure sensor? Replaced the one in my dads 09 about 6 months ago. Apparently the gmt900s are notorious for the oil pressure sensor failing and the oil pressure sensor screen/ filter gets gummed up easily. His truck has 325k miles on it and he also runs 10w30. Definitely worn out but she’s still kicking!

Probably need to reset the shift cable if you're having issues finding certain gears

So update on this issue since it's been about 6 months. P0420 code is still there and I'm due for emissions this month lol. I have a replacement cat for bank 1 that I need to have welded in. I am also getting a P0430 code, so hopefully the other one isn't failing too. Guess I'll see once I get the first one replaced. Truck definitely drives different with any emissions codes logged. I had my battery unhooked for a few hours the other day and it "cleared" the codes temporarily. Truck seemed like it had more giddy up than what I have been used to for the past 6 months. It also shifted a lot smoother too. Whether that is related to the emissions issue or if the TCM got reset as well is beyond me.

Need someone who knows what they are doing when it comes to setting up new gears. I have a couple different patterns ran and just want a second opinion on whether I should keep messing with the pinion depth/ shims, or if one of these is acceptable. I keep second guessing myself and tearing it back apart lol The first two pics are with the pinion shim at 0.037. Backlash is at 7 thou (spec is 6-10). Seems like the coast side is decent, but the drive side seems to be favoring the heel of the gear. So from there I moved on to a pinion shim at 0.040. Backlash is at 9.5 thou. Now it looks like the drive side is starting to center up, but the coast side seems like it is now favoring the heel a little more than the previous pattern. Both also seem like they may be a bit deep on the tooth. If anyone with experience setting up gears would chime in that would be awesome. I don't want to just throw them together and have issues down the road.

I’ll have to watch the o2 sensor voltages and see if the rear one is failing, but I’m fairly certain I melted the cat. I drove a little over 100 miles with it doing that, knew I should have parked it when it first happened

Yep, that’s what it was. Replaced bank 1, sensor 1 o2 sensor and it cleared up all the codes. Now I’m getting the dreaded p0420 code

Okay this is driving me crazy as I can normally figure most things out myself. Truck is a 2014 Silverado 1500, 5.3L (L83) I am getting a P0300 code as well as these o2 sensor codes: P0030, P0031, P0135, P0137 Truck was running 100% fine until Monday morning (6/21). Leave my house to head to work and I get on the main street to get to cruising speed. Truck pretty much feels like it goes into limp mode, I lose all power, for about 4-5 seconds or so. Then it downshifts to 2nd or 3rd, and I cruise most of the way to work without issue. Stop for coffee, hop in the truck, runs fine all the way to work, but about 2min from work I get my CEL on the dash. Didn't have my scan tool so waited until I got home. Pulled codes only for the upstream driver side sensor and then cleared them. They came back this morning, and now this evening the truck seems to be getting worse and almost sounds like it's about to stall out at times. That's when all the other codes popped up alongside them. Only thing I can think is there may be water in the fuel. Last time I filled up (Saturday, 6/19) I filled with the 88 octane stuff from Sheetz (believe it says up to 15% ethanol as opposed to 10% in the regular gasolines) and I still had a little over 1/4 tank when I filled up. I've ran that fuel for many thousands of miles with no hiccup (truck is FlexFuel capable) until this week. I picked up a new upstream o2 sensor tonight and that's when the truck started acting up more. On my way home from the parts store that's when I thought about possible water in the fuel, so I stopped at a different station and filled up with regular 87 octane; at this point I burned a little more than half a tank, added about 17 gallons on this fill up. At cruise speeds it runs perfectly fine, will downshift when I hit the accelerator too, but sometimes it sounds like it is struggling trying to get to those cruise speeds. Is it just coincidence that the truck started acting up after I filled up last? Or should I actually go ahead and replace the o2 sensor and see if that changes things? Would rather not just throw $$ at it in hopes of fixing it, but sometimes it beats having to drive all the way to the dealer plus taking time off from work. Any input would be awesome, thanks all!!

I currently have a 2014 Silverado 1500 w/ a BDS 6" Lift on it and believe my tie rod ends are going out. With the BDS kit, they come with "special" tie rod ends, and looking at the part number in the manual for the lift, it is 401-2036. When I enter this into Google, it comes back as a Raybestos part number. I emailed BDS and they said I could use Moog part number ES80643. When I look up that part number, it looks like they are side specific. I emailed them back and asked them about this, but they say that I can use them for both sides. This kind of weirds me out because you would think you'd want to use a different part number if they are side specific. Does anyone else have any experience with swapping out their BDS supplied tie rod ends? And if so, what did you end up going with? Thanks all!

Hey all, every time I start up my truck I get the "Service 4wd" message. Hooked up my scanner and got back the U0403-71 code (Invalid Data Received From Transfer Case Control Module.) I saw in a few other threads where others were saying their truck was locked in 4HI with this code, but mine doesn't. I can shift between 2wd and 4HI perfectly fine, with the front differential engaging/ disengaging and the transfer case doing the same. This issue only came about after I removed the front differential to fix it (when I re-geared I left out a part thus making 4wd not work at all, whoops), and when I removed it, I had left the truck in 4wd by accident. Basically what I'm curious about is if I just need to take it to the dealer to get the code cleared or the TCCM reset or if there is an actual issue with it. I haven't taken it in yet in case there is something I can do to fix it or not. Thanks!

Reviving this thread from the dead. Have done a few things since I last posted over two years ago lol - new transmission at 133k miles - re-geared the truck to 4.56 at 143k miles (all by myself surprisingly, was sort of nerve racking, but nothing has broken yet) - new tires were put on at the end of 2018 or 2019, cannot exactly remember - Mishimoto transmission cooler - Transmission thermostat delete I will have to find a somewhat current pic of the truck. Hope everyone is doing well these days!

I'll try and grab a pic, the wires are up tucked away in wire loom currently

Been a good while since I've posted a pic of the truck or really have even been active on the forum. Nothing has really changed on the truck, but figure I would throw up a pic of her. She's definitely not a pavement princess by any means! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I wanted to do that but our tint laws suck here, it would look good all blacked out Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Legal limit in VA is 50% in the front, and the rear as dark as you want it on trucks and vans, but I went with I believe it was 20% on the rear half. The windshield brow was 5% I believe Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A local place called Action Window Tinting. I got all the windows done as well as a strip above the AS1 line on my windshield Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Some pics from the past month or so. Just got the windows tinted with SunTek CXP yesterday so I'll post up pics when I get back from vacation and have a chance to clean her up. Next up is a detail for her, hopefully before winter Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Not sure last time I even posted in here but the truck is a bit different now. BDS 6" lift, glide ride leaf springs, moto metal 970 20x10 wheels, 35x12.5r20 Toyo R/T's, Ranch Hand rear bumper, Winjet automotive headlights, Morimoto HID lows, LED highs, Morimoto LED fogs. Also just got it tinted with SunTek CXP yesterday, will post up pics when I return from vacation Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Put in 8 quarts, you'll be fine. I check mine every 2500 miles since I tow often, these trucks seem to consume oil if held above 3k rpm's constantly

I wouldn't tow a gooseneck with a 1500 personally. And you can't shift some stuff around to get more tongue weight to reduce sway? And with a gooseneck and tractor you're only at 8k pounds which means that tractor only weighs around 4k, roughly. I'm not sure I would invest in a gooseneck unless you plan on hauling larger loads in the future. And at that point step up to at least a 6.0 HD

How long has it been side you've been on here? Seems like almost 6 months or so Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

No need for a response like this. First warning. Next you'll get some time off... OK?

Almost at 87k. No internal engine work done. Radiator was replaced for a leak. Torque converter was replaced last week as well. The engine is the strong part of these trucks IMO